Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

I’m going to go out on a limb here and say I quite liked the Wolverines?
Very fast rolling, a enough grip to keep you going forwards – haven’t used them in anger yet however.

I don’t mind the tyres. Bought a set of mountain king protection mk2 before the bike arrived,having heard the horror stories but haven’t found a need to fit them yet.
Yesterday I think I found their limitations to be mud. The tread is quite shallow so they obviously aren’t designed for muddy conditions.
They feel fast on gravel trails and I’m getting improved times but I’ve had a few twitchy moments. This could be down to higher speeds.

“pjbarton – should a compressor be used? When I swapped over most of the guides said not to bother, if you needed to make a running repair trail side you wouldn’t have a compressor (although wouldn’t most revert to a tube?)… Anyway, most said to use CO2, I managed it with few problems.”

Hammerite – Most guides say DON’T use co2 as it dries out the fluid faster – so compressor or track pump. But track pump can be frustrating verging on impossible. And yes, you’d always stick a tube in when on a ride. Shouldn’t have issues though, no punctures – air can burp out if your pressures are too low.

Washed* my Trigger 4 yesterday after some fairly soggy riding. Not sure if it was the washing or the puddles, but the bike “glugged” when moved afterwards. A goodly quantity of water came out of the seat tube when I turned it upside down – say about half a litre. Wondering if perhaps the grommets for the stealth dropper routing allow the frame to fill with water – there was certainly enough to immerse the BB. One I’ll be keeping an eye on, certainly.

*No jet washers, just a brush on the end of a garden hose. There’s no pressure to speak of, it just sort of dribbles out constantly.

drill a 5mm hole in the BB shell?

Yep, that may well be on the cards. But taking a drill to a new bike is the sort of thing I have to work myself up to!

Same for me. Been washing bikes for about 35 years and never had an issue. First wash just with brush and watering can and tipped a huge amount of water out of seat tube when I turned the bike over.Those little grommets must really suck the water in. Going to tape over them.

Never mind.. Read the manual!

Trigger 4 owner. When going to single chainring on the front. What chainring have you used. 96bcd not the standard type.
Thanks

Thought I’d found one but it wasn’t narrow wide.

Found another one but it says 11 speed only. Turns out it didn’t have symmetrical bolt holes.
Black spire seem to do them but priced in dollars direct.

http://www.blackspire.com/SNAGGLETOOTH-96BCD-Chainrings
Goodness knows what I’ll pay after tax and postage

I’m afraid I swapped to a second hand slx crank with 104 bcd when I did mine. Went with a fire eye narrow wide. Do hope, uberbike or superstar do one, they usually have all bases well covered?

Works components do narrow wide rings in a range of sizes including 96bcd I think?

No luck with superstar or hope.
I ordered this from eBay Australia
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACKSPIRE-SNAGGLETOOTH-96BCD-30T-CHAINRING-New-/321718373950?hash=item4ae7e8ce3e:g:ayYAAOSwEeFVI9Y4
About 35 pounds 38 with postage so cheaper than direct to black spire and eBay saved me having to to create a new account at black spire.

Works components almost had me but the 30t was out of stock.
Thanks

Got the Trigger 4 in large a few weeks back.

Yes the 96BCD issue caught me out. Went and ordered a 104 from Superstar that I have on my Stanton only to find out that it didn’t fit?! Ended up with the 32t Snaggletooth from Chainreaction for around £30 I think.

Kept the original cassette and slx clutch mech and didn’t need to shorten the chain length – all running smooth.

Great to know thanks. Did you use the same bolts? Any spacers needed?

No spacers, just some single chainring bolts and then broke the chain when removing the crank and then added a powerlink.

Climbs well in 1×10 guise, stops mud from clogging to the cramped area where the front derailleur meets the shock and I also mounted the shock trigger to where the left shifter was. Neater and protects it abit if/when crashed (they are £60 to replace!!)

Just gone 1×10 on my Jekyll 4.

If the Trigger has the same deore m612 chainset the bolt holes are 96bcd symmetrical. This fits:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/blackspire-mono-veloce-narrow-wide-chainring/rp-prod112084

Fedormega & mildred (or anyone who’s gone 1×10) – I’m 1×10 curious.
Apart from all the benefits you mentioned, what are the drawbacks of having 20 less gears?
I have a Trigger 4 – I live in Leicestershire which isn’t mega-hilly but there are a few steep bits dotted around…concerned that I won’t get up certain stuff without a granny ring though. Went 2×9 on last bike with a bash and Stinger – fine for climbing but missed the big ring on some downs – theoretically I’ll miss out on climbing AND descending.
So basically all I need to do is buy a NW ring and I’m good to go (apart from removing stuff that is!)
Hope that all makes sense 😕

Thanks Mildred. The 30t is out of stock at crc.
Rascal. The pros are simplicity and weight to me.
The cons – lose a couple of easy gears and lose a couple of stiff gears.
Most of the gears overlap so you don’t actually lose 20 gears.
I’ve never used my big chainring apart from testing so I don’t need the top end. I cycled my local trails for 4 hours on the 30t middle ring on Sunday. So I’m pretty confident I won’t miss the gears.
The guy I cycle with is constantly pushing his bike up things I leave on the 30t. So I know single setup isn’t for everyone.

rascal – before I decided to go 1×10 on my hardtail I just rode it in the middle chainring for about a month on all my rides.
I live in south Wales with Cwmcarn being my local trails so fairly steep climbs everywhere. You just grunt it out for a few weeks and then climb like a beast!
Even though the Trigger is a few lbs heavier than my hardtail I swapped it to 1×10 before even riding it and love it.

As crazymac said not for everyone but and you do lose a few gears but gain more in my opinion, especially in fitness (done 35 miles with 5500+ft of climbing last Saturday!)

You will also need singlering chainring bolts to convert and a power link is useful when the chain goes back on

Hope you find this useful

Cheers Fed

Was the only reason in breaking the chain so you could get the front mech off?
You used to be able to open up the cage – not sure if you still can – so no need to split the chain.
I’ll see how I get on just using the middle ring this weekend before committing – like the idea of less stuff but not at the expense of having a most usable bike.

Didn’t look into opening up the cage as I always fit a powerlink for when the chain needs a good soak.

Try it out over the weekend and if your fitness/terrain allows it I don’t think you will regret it.

Been reading up on expander cogs too – was kind of aware of all this 1x stuff but TBH it all passed me by.
If I get on well this weekend I’ll go for it.
If you ride steep stuff why have you not gone the 40 or 42T expander cog?

I was going to when I first went 1×10 about two years ago but just grunted it out for a weeks and then wondered why I ever used the granny ring. My style has always been to attack hills mainly out of the saddle though.

If you can stick with it and nail some good hills a couple of times a week (tip-watch some climbing technique vids on youtube) your fitness will dramatically increase, which will be better for the downs also.

I now ride up steep hills with a couple of cogs spare most of the time so my 36t is my expander. I meet loads of riders out who do use them though with their 1x setups so it is a good option to have.

Not enough pics on this thread so here’s one from last weekends adventure

I can’t think of any drawbacks but there are certainly positives for me

The bike is a lot quieter
It weighs 375g less
It has more ground clearance
It collects a lot less mud around the bb area
The handlebars are less cluttered
And so on…

I see hills as a challenge but don’t mind getting off to walk if I’m under geared; it doesn’t lessen the enjoyment for me. If I spin out down hill… Who cares? I’ve a BMX background so tend to be fairly adept at pumping the bike and gaining/maintaining speed from the terrain, so I never usually lose out against mates.

nice pic in the woods!

This is sorta relavent – PoV footage of me riding my trigger in the Peak!
2nd half looks fairly fast – it really does ‘flow’ over stuff. It’s way more capable than I am of-course. Except for the french tyres, really need to swap those.

Somebody in Didcot obviously has strong feelings about the Trigger. I parked mine outside the pub last night in the gentle rain, had a couple of beers and cycled home.
This morning I noticed a large soggy dog egg on top of the Dyad with a lolly stick in it.

Strange folk… ( but it is a Trigger 29er, so I can kind of understand it…)

Bottom bracket has gone in mine after 7 months. I want money back.

Mine did just over the year, and they are cheap to replace. I went ceramic for the replacement though, should stop that happening again any time soon.

Help needed from anyone with the lefty supermax 140mm – I’ve measured my travel, so fully extended all the way to bottom out (taken air out) – my travel is 99mm!

Has anyone else measured theirs?

I’ll contact Pauls asap – see what they say

Sounds like a manual bearing reset is required.

Thanks captmorgan, you were right – i hadn’t even thought of that as the bike is so new (it says every 50 hours) – i’ve ridden 113km says Strava

Interestingly, after doing the reset as described, i’m getting 120mm travel – tug up to full height, 125mm. Seems a way off a described 140mm.

out of interest (I haven’t done it yet) were these the instructions you followed?

https://www.cyclinic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Supermax-reset.pdf

followed instructions that came in the manual.

Previous leftys lost travel as the bearings migrated – a ‘reset’ involved yanking the lower down.

This one (post 2012 prob) loses travel at the bottom-out end, so geometry doesn’t slowly change.
The ‘reset’ is the opposite too – take air out, bottom it out firmly a few times until the O-ring in 35mm from the bottom – air back in, check sag, done.

Not sure 125mm is acceptable though?!

Ah… 20 mm not 35mm! thanks CaptMorgan – it does say 35mm but there’s a supplement sheet that says 20mm!

Rode some wet and rooty downhills on the wolverines earlier today and I’m still alive!
Go Me!

Where as my High Rollers tried to kill me in similar conditions. Or maybe it was just my lack of skills.

Took the Trigger up the nearest ‘big’ Leicestershire hill this afternoon, then up a climb which I knew to be steep – to test whether 1×10 is for me…just made a mental note DO NOT TOUCH LH SHIFTER! and kept it in the middle ring. Pleased to report that I got up first one ok and would have cleaned it if it wasn’t for the crap rear Wolverine tyre spinning out on on a wet rock. Also got up the steep one with some effort – rather than spinning easily in the granny it felt like more of a body effort if that makes sense – I can see how you’d get fitter on the climbs as you have to put more effort in not resorting to just pulling on your LH shifter for lots of easy gears. This was my barometer to see if I’m going to bite the 1×10 bullet. I was running a 30T upfront with 11-36 on the back. TBH I could have done with more gears so if I do it I’ll prob go for an expander cog. The descents were fine with a 30 so will get a NW 30 – a 32 will make it harder to climb if anything – right? Found out today that the SLX cassette is pinned between 12-24 (they are prob the wrong numbers) so it makes swapping out the 15 or 17 a non-starter, effectively meaning I have to change the whole cassette to get a better spread of gears. The BCD on the Deore crank is 96 too – which means getting a reasonably priced NW a ballache too. Anyone have any advice/pointers if you’ve gone 1×10?
It was a muddy ride and the front mech was cacked up in no time so there’s one major advantage straight away. On another note there’s one hell of a lot of rub on the crankarms after one ride today than I ever got in 6 years of using 08 XT cranks on my last bike – guessing it’s the arm profile as running same pedals and shoes as then.