Cane Creek 40 – race removal and install

My Reba’s are heading to TF for a service tomorrow and I have ordered a new Cane Creek 40 lower as the bearing is a bit rough (2 yrs old now). Frame is a 2013 Soul, tapered.

The crown race is a bit tired, with the blue rubbery bit perishing a little.

I’m assuming the new assembly will contain a new crown race :

this one

I think removal will be fine, as there is a wee slot for a screwdriver, but not sure about installing new one without damaging the rubber ?

It was fitted by LBS… I am more used to split races that pop on easily.

Any tips ?

I wouldn’t be sure that comes with a crown race, says bottom cup only in the description. I personally think Forty’s are a bit shit, had one on the soul and the bearing never lasted long at all, now have one on my Spectral and it’s sounding rough as **** already at only 7 months old.

Dave will fit a Hope set for you for not a huge amount more, has a split race for future rework, and bearings last miles longer. The Hope one on my Yeti is 3 1/2 years old now, and on it’s second bike. Still very smooth mate.

nobeer – I did wonder whether it had a race, but the questions and answers seem to suggest it does.

Hope is an idea, does yours have the sfn or the daft expander thingy ?

Not sure that does come with a crown race. That cup is compatible with either a normal steerer or a tapered which require different races and it doesn’t state which one it comes with. I would double check with the retailer what is supplied.

Why not just buy a new race and bearing? Is it not cheaper than getting a whole new bottom assembly?

For fitting a new race,I’ve heard of people using some PVC pipe to knock it down. I use an old crown race on top of the new one and knock it down with a blunt metal object and hammer . Slowly tapping around the circumference to make sure it goes down straight. Any scaring will be on the old race leaving the new one nice and clean.

I use an old crown race on top of the new one and knock it down with a blunt metal object and hammer . Slowly tapping around the circumference to make sure it goes down straight. Any scaring will be on the old race leaving the new one nice and clean.

Yep, that’s the way I do it too.

Iain, I have the ‘daft expander’ fitted as you call it! I like them, much more of a re-usable engineered component rather than the heath robinsonesque sfn. Each to their own though.

You could just buy a bearing and race, as suggested above, you could even pop the rubber seal off, hacksaw a slot in the race and refit the seal, giving you a split race.

thanks all. Nobeer – I have gone for your original suggestion and just called Dave 🙂

I will put it together with the existing one when fork comes back and then drop into Sprockets and Dave will pop in a Hope 🙂 He did suggest SFN rather than HeadDoctor too !

Aye, but he’s from Auchinleck, only good for spannering, not thinking!

you’d better hope he’s not reading this then Greg 🙂

seriously though – what are advantages of head doctor over traditional SFN, and what are pitfalls ?

I wouldn’t argue any one is better than the other, it’s a matter of preference really. I prefer a component that you fit with a hex key, and can be removed and reused over one you fit with a hammer.

Dave likes hammers. 😆

Tell him if he’s not using the head doctor that comes with your headset, I’ll take it instead!

Head doctors have 2 modes.Slipping and seized 😕
I have seen them split steerers but not for a very long time.

That must have been some proper hamfistedness.

I think it was cheaper seamed steerers tbf

Tell him if he’s not using the head doctor that comes with your headset, I’ll take it instead!

🙂