In principle there’s no reason why not, there will be a glue that works.
You might need to etch prime before bonding, some of the glues can do this if not it’s another process.
I think the main issue you’ll have is that lugs are designed around standard tube sizes, with a minimal gap to create the capillary action that draws the silver solder through the joint.
Most of the glues will want a 0.2mm (some larger) all-around gap to maximise their strength – an eccentric glue joint could have a significant effect on the bond strength.
Some of the glues will also want to be post cured.
You would be wasting you time trying to glue a frame together with those lugs.
But you could use them to make a frame by brazing / silver soldering with those lugs. That is if you wanted a frame that is based around: a one inch fork steerer tube (1 1/4″ headtube), one inch top tube, 1 1/8″ seat tube and down tube. Plus you will need to braze / silver solder the seatstays and chainstays, dropouts, brake bridge, cable guides, stops etc.
Thanks for the info paton, but not looking to do a course. Just need to get my hand back in and it’s cheaper to bugger up a few attempts than travel all the way down south, pay for accom plus a course.
The question of sufficient area is a factor in my thinking, but I think mogg makes the most pertinent point, ie bonding usually requires a larger gap than lugs designed for brazing.
Posted 4 years ago
Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
The topic ‘Bonding a lugged steel frame instead of brazing…’ is closed to new replies.
