Bike Yoke dropper??

Anybody seen or heard anything about the 160mm dropper post from bike yoke?
Looks really promising but being a Yorkshireman I’m finding hard to part with my cash on something I’ve not even seen a review of yet.

Looks interesting. I’ve got the dehy reverb conversion and it’s really well put together.

I’m awaiting delivery of mine from tf. Sounded so promising, I took the gamble

Might just take a punt on it, only £50 more than a reverb and I guess the back up is there with tf tuned

Got the dispatched email today. Hopefully riding with it Wed night!

Like to know how you get on with this.

I’m interested in it – looks good. Although my Lev is still trucking on for now.

Any report on this superfli?

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/11spd-this-weeks-best-new-bike-gear-48993/

Just got mine, yet to be fitted, rather happy I can get 160mm drop in the same maxed out 150mm KS lev on the same bike.

Sorry, I’ve forgotten about this thread.
I made a bit of a boo boo. My legs a pretty short, so getting a 160mm dropper that had a short collar and visible post was massive bonus. I carefully measured that the exposed seatpost would not be too long. Unfortunately I didnt pay as much attention to how much post + mechanicals ould sit in my frame, which has a bend in it 🙂
Of course, the post didnt fit! Arrgh! prat! I’d fitted the cable and cut to length as well. Fortunately the very kind people at TF Tuned (Dee+Ryan) found someone who worked there wanted it, so swapped the post for a 125mm. Phew.

Anyway, I fitted it last night. Very easy to fit, no adjustment to the cable necessary for me, just make sure inner is 17mm longer than outer, and cut the end flush with the knob thing. The lever is lovely. Really nice and solid, 2 positions of adjustment in/out and the action is really smooth. The post is pretty fast to extend, makes a whack as it reaches the top. The on the go bleed screw works very well. My post sunk about 15mm initially, but a quick turn of the screw and fixed, in fact you could use that as a manual drop if you bust the cable/lever.
It seems very well made. I’m a little worried about the grub screw at the end of the cable. I dont like tiny allen screws, fearing they will round off, especially if stuck – and you do need to do it up tight.
Test will be tomorrow night on my usual Wed night ride…

Good to hear – I’m split between this and the forthcoming X-Fusion one for a new build. Neither has the (potentially unreliable) IFP, but the X-Fusion doesn’t have the reset port. It is £100 cheaper though..

What X-Fusion one is that? Damn, I like XFusion stuff! In fact was usnig a 5 year old hilo on my HT (never seen a service!) until I bought the Revive.

http://www.xfusionshox.com/products/seat-posts/manic

Hi, we actually have the Bike Yoke “Revive” dropper on review here at Singletrack towers. So far it has been reliable and has a super smooth action. The Revive system works as advertised too. I’ll try and get a few words together and published with pics soon. Any questions in the meantime feel free to ask 😀

@idiotdogbrain:
Not sure, where you got this information from, that the Manic does not have an IFP. Manic does have an IFP. 😉

Used last night. Got filthy in our southern slop. Post worked fine, extremely smooth lever and drop/raise. It got the thumbs up from my mates who braved the conditions last night!

@sacki – ah, thanks! Must have been a late-night, half-asleep browsing mistake; cheers for clearing that up 🙂

http://www.tftuned.com/revive-dropper-post-309/p3265

After a few muddy rides the post is still incredibly smooth. Not that I noticed the old reverb wasnt smooth, you just have to try the Revive to feel the difference. I was surprised a cable actuated post could feel so smooth in the pull of the cable and the rise of the post.

My only concern, and its been a concern since fitting, is the barrel at the cable. It takes a 2mm allen key to tighten, and although it states 2nm, I’ve had it slip through last night and when I first assembled it. I hate small grub screws and I’m worried I’m not going to be get it tight enough to grip the cable without rounding the screw.

Well I’ve gone and lost the barrel nut. Fears were always that this was the weak point. Dropped somewhere in garage. Just emptied garage, cant find it. I’ll ring TF tomorrow and order 10. I feared this would be the weak point and it has proven it on first asking.

I think you almost talked yourself into losing the grub screw there mate!

I know what you mean though.
Most annoying thing in the world when something like that happens…

@superfli: Sorry ot hear, that you lost your barrel.
Please send me an email to sacki@crankingsolutions.com and I´ll send you a replacement barrel.
To be honest (and I am not kidding) we have never lost or damaged one of the barrels, not even managed to damage the 2mm end of the grub screw.
The same exact barrel has been used on the KS LEV for years without any issues. There is a lot of negagement length for the Allen key. If you use a proper Allen key, then you won´t damage it, even with higher torques than 2Nm. Maybe I´ll update the manual. 2Nm is usually more than enough, but depending on torque wrenches, maybe it does not display correctly. Did you use a torque wrench?
I think you feared to damage the grub screw and did not go the full 2Nm.
I can´t imagine that a barrel, properly tightened with 2Nm got loose. 2Nm may sound low, but actually it is not. If you have ever tightened something with a torque screwdriver, then you know, what I mean. With such a tool, you can feel, that 2Nm is quite a lot.
What I want to say: It i snot really a weak point, when tightened properly. Never lost one, never had any issues with it in over 5 years of KS LEV either. And we installed hundreds of them at Bionicon.

Cheers
Sacki from BikeYoke

Thanks for the offer and vote of confidence sacki! I’ve managed to get a replacement barrel from the nice guys at tf tuned (once again to the rescue!). I haven’t got a torque wrench that small, but also didn’t realise there was a bigger Allen the other side of the barrel ,allowing more purchase on torqing up the screw. I’ll try again today.

but also didn’t realise there was a bigger Allen the other side of the barrel

So what you basically want to say is, you didn´t read the installation instructions, right? 8)
https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/0967164001486850096.pdf
Page 13, please. 😉
How would you even torque to 2Nm without countering the other side? 😆

Pliers lol 🙂

Oh, Maaaan… 😆
Well, now you know. 😉

Yes, loads more torque when using the 4mm allen on other side 😆 Fitted and feels much more solid. Thanks!

sacki.
I’ve seen a review that showed that the post needs resetting if you stand your bike on end with the seatpost in the down position?
Is that right, is there any way of avoiding this happening?
I’m really keen on this post but as it’ll be used on a bike that’s going to be on an uplift trailer a fair bit I can see that being a real problem.

Conceptually, the “front” side of the inner tube fills with air when moved in a horizontal position while “dropped” (green highlight). The air remains trapped inside the tube when the post is rotated back. Maybe not having a transfer port on the front side would help in this case?(the diagram shows two ports, one at the front and one at the back)

@otsdr: Hmmm… You know this is a round tube, right? 😛
Why would air only stay at “the front side”. Air goes to the top, no matter, if it´s at the front or rear.
Plus, this is only a section view. We have actually 4 ports for oil flow. 😉

@singlespeedstu: Actually, the post only can get enough air inside the inner chamber to create noticeable suspension feeling, if you have the post dropped AND upside down. Then you´d have to reset it, if it bothers you. Normally, if you shuttle up, then you go down only, and when fully dropped, it doesn´t matter anyway.
However, if you have the post extended, while upside-down you won´t really get air trapped inside the inner chamber to cause a suspension issue, that would require using the reset function.

Well, when the bike is standing on its rear wheel (seatpost is horizontal) the front-facing section of the seatpost becomes the “top”.
Having no port on this “front section” (and a way of keeping the orientation of the tube fixed) would decrease the chance of air ingress when the bike is oriented this way with no discernible effect on the functionality of the post.

superfli – Member

I feared this would be the weak point

The owner? I often find that too 😆

How’s that Revive going singletrackandi?

Any update on how people are getting on with these? Tempted by one for a new build but after having a good experience with my Fox transfer on the full sus I don’t want to stick one of these on the hardtail to find it is unreliable for the sake of 10mm.

I have the 160 version. Really easy to install and set up. I’ve used it quite a bit now and have a small bit of lateral play which came on quite early but is not noticeable on the bike. What is noticeable is the 160 drop. I never dropped my post that much before and it’s so much better now on tech stuff. I think i used to manually drop it 100mm or so

Mines still working smooth as ever. Lovely bit of kit. Just remember to leave the post extended if you are moving the bike upside down or vertically, else its just a twist of the 4mm revive screw.