Anyone own a Sony RX100?

I have seen comment before about the sony choosing twice as long a shutter speed as the canon for the same situation.

I would have much preferred 2 stops higher ISO and 2 stops faster shutter.

Yep – that’s a real issue and frustratingly while Sony has addressed precisely that point in the A7R11, they haven’t done it so far in a firmware update for older cameras.

In the A7R11 you can use apperture priority mode with Auto ISO and choose the minimum shutter speed you want. In all other version of the camera, the minimum shutter speed will be 1/focal length (or equivalent thereof if you’re using a less than FF sensor).

It’s a right bug bear and it’s the reason I tend to shoot fully manual on my A7 these days. Fortunately with the A7s, you can set the ISO to around 12,800 and get results as clean as most other equivalent camera’s ISO 3200, so it’s not so much of a problem, but I would still be happier with the minimum shutter speed option.

AlexSimon – Member

My biggest bugbear at the moment is that in Aperture priority mode, Auto ISO tends to run too slow a shutter for mountain biking or kids indoors.

Surely in a situation where shutter speed is going to be the dominant variable that you need to get right, just choose shutter priority and set it to something suitable…..?

Surely in a situation where shutter speed is going to be the dominant variable that you need to get right, just choose shutter priority and set it to something suitable…..?

I can see an argument for that, but – it’s still a landscape shot. f/2 would have left the distant hills too OoF. As it was a gloomy day I erred on the side of caution with a middlish aperture, but if the camera reduced it even further it would be a fail.
I may experiment to see how wide an aperture it gives in that situation though, just in case.

As mentioned – it weights more towards slow shutter than high ISO in Aperture priority mode. My other cameras (Canon DSLR and LX3 compact) would have weighted a bit differently. {edit} My guess is that’s because they would combating camera shake, whereas the Sony has stabilization.

Surely in a situation where shutter speed is going to be the dominant variable that you need to get right, just choose shutter priority and set it to something suitable…..?

Sure but then the camera will most likely increase the apperture as well as the ISO and then you’ll get focusing issues. Especially with small sensor cameras, you’ll have maybe two or three stops of ISO variance to play with but maybe four or five of apperture. Ideally you’d shoot at f/8 or more. If you’re ISO is limited to say 1600 or 3200 at a push, and f/8 and 1/60s has you at ISO800 because you’re in a forest, then the camera has two more stops of ISO before it has to enlarge the apperture.

So you’re f/8 and 1/60 and ISO800, then you got to 1/320s which is +4 stops so you’ll then be at f/5.6 and ISO3200 or f/4 and ISO1600. With a very wide angle lens, where the hyperfocal length is tiny and everything is in focus you might get away with that, but at 35mm and f/5.6 you won’t have front to back sharpness.

Ideally with MTBing pictures, the scenery beind the rider is as much a part of the image as the rider. It’s the rider in the environment, so environment counts. Large appertures reduce depth of field and eliminate the environment. There will be times you want to do that, but not always

^^^^ yeah, the scenery is part of the shot, of course. It provides context etc.

But IMO, that pic above is a landscape shot with a blurry cyclist in the way, rather than a pic of a mountain biker in his natural environment due to the fact that he is blurred, but the background is sharp. It looks like the important bit is the scenery, not the bloke on the bike.

Choosing something like 1/125 sec would have caught the cyclist nice & sharp & enough of the background would have been in focus to give the image some context….I suspect most of the background would be sharp enough.
It looks like those riders are climbing, (so probably going fairly slowly) so if depth of field is an issues at a wider aperture, you could just pre-focus & take the shot as the rider got to that point.

But, yeah it would be nice if the camera knew what you were trying to take a picture of and intelligently chose between increasing the shutter speed or the aperture.

There’s probably a software engineer somewhere who had to make the decision knowing that for some people & some situations it would be the wrong choice 😀

Iv had my sonyrx100 mk3 for a week and used it 2x. I’ve been keeping it in a,pelican1010 case, on the 2nd time I used it after it being in the case a few days the lenses will now not open fully. Tried turning it on and off several times no help. Gently tapped the side of it and that seemed work. Put it back in the case then took it out again an hr later and its happening again. Is the camera faulty or is it the case pressing too hard on the camera the problem? If it’s the case can anyone recommend a good rugged waterproof alternative?

I have taken the foam out of the lid of the Peli case as it was putting too much force on the lens/cover.

It is still nice and snug and does not move about so I’m not worried about having less protection.

Yes as above same for me heliz85, just too tight I’m sure, lens cover is quite delicate, mine has recovered! euanc did you just peel the whole foam off the lid?

I just chuck mine in a pocket. If it’s wet I put it in a waterproof bag. It’s not that delicate.

I just chuck mine in a pocket. If it’s wet I put it in a waterproof bag. It’s not that delicate.

Always been keen on this approach

But its killed every camera I’ve tried it with due to sensor dust. It can take years but its never not happened

I just chuck mine in a pocket.

As above, I wouldn’t recommend this. Mine now has a hair stuck inside the lens from very occasional ‘pocketing’. Thought it was on the sensor, so dismantled the camera to clean it and found LOTS of lint, but not the offending hair. Stick it in a soft case, at least.

As the one who originally asked the question I thought I best update – Just received my RX100 mk1 a few days ago. Had a bit play with it and loving it so far, I have plenty to learn though to get the right photos as there are far more settings than I am used to!

One thing I was slightly unsure about is there seems to be quite a bit of side to side play in the lens compared to what I would expect, is that normal?

Cheers for all the pics and links and updates, this thread went way further than I was expecting!

Enjoy!
I don’t have mine to hand to check the lens, but I’ll check later.

It did recover after gently tapping the side of the lenses but same thing happened every time it went back in the case. It’s gone back to where I bought it from to be exchanged for a new one as problems with the lenses opening and closing is a known fault for the mk3. I was impressed with the few photos I took with it though. I’ve removed the foam from the upper lid of the peli case now.

…there seems to be quite a bit of side to side play in the lens compared to what I would expect, is that normal?

I think mine’s the same – it almost feels loose, but I’ve not noticed any ill effects.

Just got one too – tiny bit of play, not lose though. First few snaps have been good but not been able to devote that much time to it. Contrary to a few reports that I’ve seen, I don’t mind how it handles at all.

Had a MKI about 6 months. Recently got dust inside that appears on all shots. Dust is towards top of frame………….usually where the expanse of sky appears 🙄
.
Not been anywhere particularly dusty, and keep it in a camera case.
A bit frustrating.
Is this an issue with all compacts?

Sensor cleaning (for the brave / desperate):

There’s also some people who advocate using a vacuum cleaner over the lens, but it didn’t do anything for mine.

Sensor cleaning (for the brave / desperate):

😯
I’m not brave enough.

I took my new RX100 out at the weekend to Penmachno.
I’m pleased with this which I have only used Photoshop to merge 3 images together and add the frame. [/url]Photoshop photo merge. 3 images of a stunning vista by Ken H[/url], on Flickr

My first proper weekend using the camera, we were down riding ont he south coast of France…

Winter Riding In The Côte D’Azur – Le Rallye Enduro D’Hiver, Levens[/url]

This thread made me buy one, just got in before the end of the cash back offer, has arrived but no pics yet, awaiting a memory card!

Bloody STW making me shop unnecessarily……..

It can store a few pics on the internal memory 🙂
(USB to get them off)

The more I think about the better the RX100 looks

Sure there are better options. But the new lower price is attractive and I think that a camera to be used on adventures shouldn’t be too expensive.

Well done Sony for leaving it out there at a good prices. rather than sticking to the high price exculsive model

I ended up getting the mk IV as I decided to part finance it. Jessops were doing 0% on it, but 15%APR on the older model, bringing the total cost to within £100 of each other. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it. 🙂

I originally wanted the Fuji X30, lovely to use and no doubt capable, but couldn’t see past the IQ and compactness of the Sony in the end. Yes, it’s fiddly unless you have child sized hands, and the ergonomics in general aren’t great, but I’ve been impressed with the fast lens and low light performance, although things do get mushy if you close down the aperture and boost ISO. Below 1600 is very clean, with decent dynamic range. Perfect for toting around town and will save me lugging my SLR on bikepacking trips.

Sony cashback PAID at £60 winner!
Total RX100 mk1 camera cost = £189

That is amazing

Couple from today’s ride

AlexSimon – Member
Sony cashback PAID at £60 winner!

Tempted by this thread and in the market for one – I bought a Mk1 from John Lewis on the 30th Jan.

Just back from hols with it today and pleased with the pics but when
I’ve sat down to claim on Sony’s site:
“The purchase date provided does not entitle you to participate”
Hmm.
I’ve messaged Sony support.

Nice pics btw Alex.

Terms definitely say between 15th October and 31st January 2016 (inclusive), so you should be ok.

Cheers!

Johnny, same happened to me, Sony replied saying they were working to fix the problem and to try again. Can claim until the end of Feb.

Hi everyone. I’m a camera novice and owner of one of these. When sticking up pictures could you advise on what settings you’re using too please. It’ll help me hopefully. Cheers

The purchase date provided does not entitle you to participate”
Hmm.

Yep, same, Sony Web site doesn’t make claiming cashback simple ax one would expect. Put a date in around entry December instead, worked for me to get to next stage. Not had money yet like though.

Here’s my metadata from those 3 images. I’m not sure it will help much as a fair amount of post-processing done in Lightroom from RAW files and I didn’t have much time to think!

All taken in aperture priority mode. Manually setting ISO.

Top: f5.6 10.4mm ISO800 1/1000 (I accidentally left ISO at 800 from bottom gloomy action image unnecessarily)

Middle: f3.2 12.48mm ISO800 1/2000 (had about 2 secs to get my camera out so accidentally left all settings from bottom gloomy action image unnecessarily)

Bottom: f3.2 18.66mm ISO800 1/640

Anyone else frustrated that formatting the card, makes the video file numbering reset? I haven’t found a workaround, other than to keep putting the file structure in another new folder every time I take content off the card 🙁

I guess I’ve just got into the habit of formatting every time on my other cameras, instead of deleting.

Stop formatting the card.

Do you format your pc every time you use it?

Been using digital cameras since around 2005, on my third LUMIX, and I’ve never formatted a card. I just buy a bunch of blank cards from 7dayshop, fill them up and get new ones. Even 64Gb cards are so cheap now it’s just not worth clearing them and reusing, keep them safe as the ultimate backup and buy new, and don’t bother formatting.

Or just cut and paste to remove files rather than copy.

I just buy a bunch of blank cards from 7dayshop

I can’t afford to keep buying new SanDisk cards. The only card I ever had fail was my only non-SanDisk one – not statistically significant, I know …