Anybody gone 1 x10 and regretted it?

Contemplating this on my Turner, does a 34 Front, 36 Rear suffice for most stuff.

Riding will include the lakes and The peaks BTW

Ta

I don’t regret it 99.9% of the time.

I’m located in sheffield, so do quite a few 3+hr peak rides about a month.

It’s awesome because you don’t get the chain suck you inevitably get in winter/wet peak, it’s lighter’ it looks better, your chain bounces around less, you can run a short cage mech so it gets caught on less.

I run 32-11/36, i only spin out on the road downs, i ride quide a bit of DH too so ain’t really a slouch off road.

I only get uncomfortable with it when you’re climbing with people with granny rings, if you go behind them, that’s it, you’re doone if its tech, it’s all about attcking and keeping the momentum on the climbs with 1X10.

May sound obvious but comes down to how fit you are and what weight the bike is. I’m reasonably fit although the wrong side of 40, and my Ibis weighs sub-28lbs (in part thanks to running 1×10). Around the Surrey Hills it’s fine, but on longer days around the Peaks / Lakes / Wales I sometimes miss the granny ring. Am running 32 at the front 36 rear btw.

I am running 1×9,and feel like I’m missing out a bit. Perhaps 1×10 is what I need…

Seriously though, 1×9 is fine all the time, except for towing the trailer with the nipper in up long steep hills.

I run a 34T front 11-36 rear.

So far I haven’t not got up anything yet!

Sometimes I find following someone spinning up in the granny ring a little hard going, and because it’s more of a grind on some hills if i’m out for a long day I can find my legs get a bit more fatigued from mashing, rather than spinning it out.

However, having said that, the benefits outweigh the small increase in effort to me. I much prefer the simplicity, and the fitter I get, the easier it is anyway.

I don’t think I would ever go back, if I had to I would drop down to a 32T on the front to compensate for a dropped level of fitness.

Happy on my light HT. I’m too scared to try it on my FS.

when i went 1×10 you couldnt get a 9spd cassette with a 36t sprocket. You can now – do you really need to go 10spd ? itl be alot cheaper to go 1 x 9……

Dave, i had 1 x 9 on my swift.
no good in the lakes/dales/anywhere with long rocky climbs.
how much does a inner ring and a front mech really weigh?

22/32 on the front now.

Thinking about the 1×10 myself. What sort of chain devices are people using?

Nope, love it. 36t with 11-36 block. Ridden mainly around the Surrey Hills, but also done Dalby, Wales etc. Reasonably fit rider, light XC bike. Superstar chain device with home made seat tube mount.

Not had a 22t granny for years though, personally find it too small to be of much use.

Howdie Ton, that ticker of yours playing up again?

I very rarely use the granny, just for particularly awkward climbs.

It’s the CRC deal thats got me thinking about it.

as far as chain devices the MRP Lopes seems very light, just unsure about lack of bash protection.

Ive got two set ups; 1×10 32-11/36 and 2×10, 26/38-11/36. Its a hill fest where I live and the 1x is fine esp for quick blats in the woods, but the 2x is great for longer rides in big hills. love the 38 with full spread out the back, feels like it pedals smoother?? could be an illusion but feels that way. nice to have both…a triple?

I agree with hob nob.
I’ve struggled a little lately on the climbs but single chainrings are so much simpler, so i’ve just changed my 36t for a 32t for the winter.

Went 1×10 about two months ago, love it, as someone else mentioned on the more tech climbs you really have to pick your line carefully and keep the momentum, but I do find I just get on with it a bit more rather than shifting constantly looking for a “nice” ratio, if you’ve got an iPhone check out an app called chainvetica and you can see what ratios/speeds you’ll lose from your current set up to whatever new set up your considering, (and you wont be losing much) I’ve gone 11/36 on the rear with a 34t renthal on the front, with a MRP mini G2 sl guide, I ride some trail centres but mainly the peak district

I run 1×10 on a 28lb 5.5in full suss bike and it’s great. 36f and 11/36 rear but I also have a 34f which I’m yet to try.
I haven’t found myself failing on climbs like the Walna Scar out of Coniston, Scorpion at Mabie but the steppy climbs between Howtown and Patterdale were harder. A bit like singlespeeding, you have to plan for climbs slightly earlier and attack them, the harder the better.
I never liked the granny ring and I find that if I’m spinning flat out on 36/11 then I’m fairly motoring anyway.
I just use an E13 1.X guide and I’m really impressed. No chain offs since I fitted it 6 months ago.
Go on try it; what’s the worst that can happen?

I tried it one day, realized it was 9 too many and made me 9 times less of a man. Rule 5

I’ve been running 32 x 11/36 for a year or so now. No major problems although did have to swap the original 11/34 out. I ride the Peaks and this year have been to Cannock, CyB, Exmoor and the Surrey Hills. The only place I struggled was on some local trails near Cardiff, and that was on the road. Overall no regrets although it’s not my only bike so I still have a choice.

Bit of extra effort for me with 1×9 34t 11-34t, though planning to go 1×10 34t 11-36t. 11-36 should give me one extra lower for the grunt up hills.

Thing is though, I came from 2×9 22t-32t 11-34t and I rarely used the granny, in part because the front mech was knackered and wouldn’t drop down. Suited me fine, but wanted a bit more for top end speed so got 34t up front with 1×9. That means a bit less climb ability though, so I think to compensate 1×10 34t and 11-36t should be good. Everything else is MTFU.

chainguide wise, I’d use something with no moving parts
straitline silent guide looks ok

for those wanting to stay 9 speed, this is the 12-36 9 speed cassette:
Shmano HG61 Cassette

i regretted it about 4 hours into a 100km event at Afan.

Fireroad… fireroad… fireroad… simply can’t do that on a 1×9/10 for hour after hour.

Depends how steep those fireroads are. I’m not sure there’s a link between the width of the track and the gears required!

I’d still run a double if I was doing 24 solos, or stage racing, or riding in the Alps or something. And possibly on a more ‘trail’ biased bike. I personally don’t find 1×10 a comprimise, I don’t feel I have to ‘plan’ for climbs any more carefully. I think if I did I’d not bother!

For trail centers it’d be great, did dalby the other week and didnt drop into the granny once despite being on the pitch which weighs in the wrong side of 33lb.

For natural stuff I like the granny too much.

The hardtail is currently 34/11-34, previously it was SS, I swear 1×9 is harder work, you dont get a break between hills like on the SS, even if the individual hills are easier.

Depends how steep those fireroads are. I’m not sure there’s a link between the width of the track and the gears required!

I’d still run a double if I was doing 24 solos, or stage racing, or riding in the Alps or something. And possibly on a more ‘trail’ biased bike. I personally don’t find 1×10 a comprimise, I don’t feel I have to ‘plan’ for climbs any more carefully. I think if I did I’d not bother!

You are by default not included in this discussion due to the fact you’re barely human with your levels of fittness and speed.

😆

The fact my bike is 40% lighter than ‘spoons helps!

Cheers gents, seems that most people think it has more positives than Negatives.

Go on try it; what’s the worst that can happen?

I need to find another £85 for a LH XTR Shifter and Front Mech 🙁

for those wanting to stay 9 speed, this is the 12-36 9 speed cassette:
Shmano HG61 Cassette

I currently run 1×32-11/34t, do you have to get a new rear mech to run a 36t cassette or should a normal 9-speed X9 work?

kayak23.
Should be fine with the 12/36. Just make sure your chain is long enough. If you’ve had it chopped neat for the 34t you may have to add a couple of links.

no good in the lakes/dales/anywhere with long rocky climbs.

I don’t accept this. I’m a distinctly average fitness rider and got up Snowdon fine. On big days out, I do accept that it can take a bit more out of the legs though.

I do find I’m not making full use of my FSers traction abilities in the wet too, since I’m spinning out a little. I’m on 32T front and 11-32 cassette. I’m going to trade up to a 34 cassette and see if it helps.

I must admit I don’t use the granny very often. On the basis of that I think I will give it a go.

Dropping to a 32 front will help a little if the 34 proves too much.

or at least that’s how I’m selling it to myself 🙄

Interesting post.
I’m riding a prophet setup 1×10, 34 front 11-36 rear.
MRP top guide.
I really like the simple set up, but find the steeper climbs a bit harder.
Ok if your feeling up for it, but not so great if you are tired before you start the ride.
I recently had to bail 3/4 of the way round the 2nd lap of Cannock, whereas I’d done it on a 2×10 setup. Although the weather conditions were different and it was a different bike, so not quite a true comparison.

If I ride in a group behind some slower climbers then you lose all momentum and it’s hard to make it up the climbs.

I’m thinking a 33T front ring might be more suitable for the winter.
I am missing my 2×10 setup a liitle but I’m hoping that if I persevere with 1×10 I’ll improve my strength and stamina.

Ben

Since Autumn began I’ve changed to single ring – 32t, with 9spd 11-32 curently.

Did it as part of a plan to ‘mtfu’ over winter, and its definitely working, legs feeling stronger already.

i started with a 36t ring, way to big for anything you’d call MTB.

32-32 bottom is ok round home with no steeper climbs, but I’ve struggled a bit when I’ve travelled out for proper rides, trail centres etc. When this cassette is dud (soon) I’m going to change to 11-36. I’ve also just changed from a hardtail back to suspension (Pitch, so not featherweight) so this should help.

But – yes, it can be done.
It is, in a way, a bit like a halfway house to S/Sing. You have to start attacking the climbs.

I’ve noticed that I’m hitting climbs faster, and I’m starting to drop my friends who are grannying it – they catch up often near the top with fresher legs, but the gap is growing.

Its also lighter (by more than thought, noticeably so!?) simpler and much better in the mud.

I reccomend, after all, its easy to try.

PS the superstar cheap single ring guide works brilliantly and is very good value, well impressed considering MRP etc are 3x the price.

I converted my Five Pro to 1×10 around 6 weeks ago and it is great.

I’m not overly fit as I enjoy my beers and curries too much!

Local to Cannock and get up everything, I also rode Coed y Brenin last week and rode the Dragons Back in 3hrs including a puncture without pushing it.

So my advice is go for it.

In terms of chain device I use a Superstar Plasma, a little noisy but it does the job and was cheap although I may try one of the silent guides.

Doooo it, you know it makes sense… tho you may laugh at me on mine on Sunday now all me fitness has gone 😉

I’d say go for 32 and if ya unsure leave the granny ring for emergency manual change in very dire cases and ditch the mech and shifter.

Chat 2mw and will sort ofr Sunday 🙂

Righto buddy.

already sorted, first order already gone into CRC 😉

I was running 2×9 (29/44 and 11-34) on my old bike. My new build is 1×10 with 32 and 11-36. The lowest ratio is the same so I haven’t lost out on that side, the top end I do spin out on the road on the way home going down hill but I’m not fussed about that. I did it for a few reasons, less faff with the front mech, weight saving and a bit of nicheness. Am happy with it, yes. I find the 32 front ring gives a different feel on the bike, perhaps its the tighter chain and shorter cage than I had on the old bike but when you give it a push when you are struggling you get a bit more drive than you would in a smaller chain ring.

If you are worried about fitness and mtfu I was off the bike for 8 weeks and am no fitness freak and I haven’t found it too difficult in the surrey hills.

i started with a 36t ring, way to big for anything you’d call MTB.

Although with 10 speed you potentially have a 1:1 bottom gear, which is what you have with a 32 anyway. I’d not go smaller.

I am about to try it for the first time for a 3 hour blast around Swinley. Not that much of a test since there aren’t many mountains in that part of the world.

I was contemplating 1×10 but went 2×10 in the end, it was the right decision for me, on a typical ride I use all the gears. A couple of factors also are that I share the bike with my better half so that helps her, and I’m at an age where I prefer to push a softer gear to lengthen the lifetime of my knees and riding career.

I run 1×10 on my Alpine 160 (weighs 33lbs) and 1×9 on my soul (25lbs)

I would not go back now. Rode CYB and penmachno last weekend, ride in the peaks on a regular basis and my local riding is around calderdale and that is hardly flat.

As said above it depends on how fit you are (coming from a SS background would help)