[Closed] Am i daft to buy QR forks?

get out and ride now, upgrade if you feel you need to later on and have the cash.

personally I cant tell the difference between QR and bolt through though most folk say they can.
QR will be fine for your needs - if you are heavy rider or a big hitter from huge drops then worth the wait otherwise go for it. QR will be phasing out for high end long travel [ above 100mm] kit though

I dont think QR will ever fade out for anything under 140mm. most Shimano Deore level hubs are QR, I think that shows what is going to happen in times to come.. Not much, Shimano clearly believe in the 9mm QR system or they would make all of there hubs interchangeable.

well, on a 120-140mm steel hardtail frame, you would like the strength of a bigger axle, as it enhances the ride, after i went to 20mm from QR, i can tell you it makes a big difference. on bumpy stuff and turns it remains more controlled, feels stiffer and is more stable. i remember having the wheel flex until it rubbed on my forks with quick release.

if youve got a good pair of wheels already, you can still get good qr forks, and that would be a good setup. it depends what sort of thing your riding, - for xc use, qr is fine, for more downhill/all mountain/jumping then i think you would be better with bolt through

so in my opinion, its worth geting 15/20mm. in your case i think the best plan of action would be to just put the 100mm forks on that you have, ride it like that whilst saving for some 20mm forks and wheel.
i hope this helps

If you don't want to / can't afford to change your wheels you've answered your own question.

Personally when I moved over to a QR15 fork I could tell the difference over my older Revelation QR's

Same. I've only got a 20mm Bolt-thru recently, and only because QR Pikes don't exist. Can't tell the difference really, and QR never seemed out of it's depth (my local trails were the Dyfi and general natural Welsh stuff so not exactly trail centre kitty-litter).

Only ever had one front QR fail, and that was because my Gorilla hands over-tightened it.

If you destroy one, by all means upgrade, but there's no *real* reason to replace QR with 20mm unless the fork you want is only in 20mm

i remember having the wheel flex until it rubbed on my forks with quick release.

I've built three 456 frames now and they all had QR. I deliberately went QR for compatibility with my other bikes. If you're really bothered about it, maybe start with normal QR then get a DT Swiss 9mm bolt-thru hub (or Specialized Stout hubs) as they're a bit stiffer and more secure but still work in standard 9mm QR dropouts.

Personnally I dont feel the differnce between the two and for the riding your doing I dont think you will either. Looking at test results you only start feeling the difference when hitting stuff at higher speeds in excess of 25mph even then its only when cornering and larger rock gardens. I think a lot of it is mental as I changed to 15mm and thought it was stiffer but then a few weeks later jumper back on a bike with QR and couldnt tell the difference

i have 2 bikes one with one without
the one bolt through bike does track a little better but its not a massive difference

I've seen reports that 15mm is actually no stiffer than QR. 20mm makes a difference as the axle is actually clamped in the dropouts which it isn't on 15mm. It's definitely safer and more secure and it looks like it will be standard as fork manufacturers will be rolling to all models as the lowers are redesigned (Magura are using it down to XC race forks this year).

However, you're never going to have any trouble buying QR hubs so it's not like a QR fork will be unusable.

will riding q/r spoil your rides? dont know but it doesn't spoil mine. just ride what you can afford and don't over think what you need.

I managed to convince myself I noticed a difference between 15mm and QR, but it could have been any number of other factors, and at the end of the day i've ridden 32mm stanchion 130mm forks with QR and had no problems. Buy a shimano QR, do it up on the tight side of what they recommend and be done with it.

no major jumping or drops, can't do them ha, to be honest im happy with quick release it's never stopped me riding before.

I definitely don't go fast enough round corners to feel the flex.

The fork i will be going for is a hell of a lot cheaper in QR too which is a major benefit.

thanks for the input everyone really helped.

Only reason I changed to 15mm from QR was down to the security it offered over a QR set up after I'd read a few articles. In my opinion, I don't think a front QR has a place on a modern Mountain bike, but that's purely my opinion from the articles I've studied.

by 20mm forks and make me an offer for the 20 mm wheel I took of my pitch after about 5 months use. I'm in sheffield

15mm does work out just a little stiffer than QR, when comparing the same forks, there's been a few tests of that. But then 15mm also turns out to be both heavier and less stiff than the 20mm equivalents, with only 1 redeeming feature that most people don't take advantage of. Abortion of a standard, so inevitably it's winning 🙄

I'd buy another set of QR forks, because I have some nice QR wheels. But if you're speccing a new setup it makes sense to go for a bolt-through, there's no real disadvantage and there are some advantages. Not enough that people should be running out and replacing old QR kit though.

nosedive can't find your e-mail. fire one over to me at moseydo@hotmail.co.uk if you dont mind.

It's definitely safer and more secure and it looks like it will be standard as fork manufacturers will be rolling to all models as the lowers are redesigned (Magura are using it down to XC race forks this year).

Can you clarify what you mean there? Magura website suggests the 2012 forks are all either QR or 15mm.

Andy

Northwind the problem is i don't have forks at the minute i sold the Recon 100mm to put towards new forks thinking i'd just go QR.

My front wheel is one that came on a Giant, think it's a tracer hub, so is QR only.

Ideally i'd buy front wheel and forks but it's not an option.

Joiner off here is a cracking rider and not shy on the dh, about 12.5 stone also. Rides QR forks and flies.

Stiffen up with a 9mm thru axle from superstar?

Don't worry, just ride with what you have got and enjoy it, spending money doesn't make you a better rider.

at the minute i don't have a fork but i do have a QR wheel.

Maybe i should look at second hand forks and buy a wheel too.

ygm

Think I'm going to look at QR 100-140mm Sektors. Should be spot on for a Prince Albert.

15/20mm = emperors new clothes.

Can you clarify what you mean there? Magura website suggests the 2012 forks are all either QR or 15mm.

They're offering a choice now but I suspect in a few years it will be 15mm only.

i used to have 2002 monster Ts - stiff as ****

between them and now ive had 04 888s
07 sids
08 sids
05 rebas
pace rc31a
marzocchi z150s

and ive ridden most forks over the last 10 years at some point or another.....

now monsters to sids i noticed .... and sids to rebas i noticed ...

z150s and monsters / 888s i noticed no difference - its all in your head ...

if you can do your skewar up correctly and check it periodically i see no advantage to running 15mm or 20mm .... did a week of descending as fast as i possibly could in the alps on the z150s with a dreaded hope skewar in them - not a single issue ! - reading on here i should have died many times over for daring to run a qr fork!

can tell you it makes a big difference. on bumpy stuff and turns it remains more controlled, feels stiffer and is more stable. i remember having the wheel flex until it rubbed on my forks with quick release.

you were doing it wrong. Did you make that up to justify your purchase ? your wheel builder should be shot ... the only way that happened was your were actually in 1996 and running indys judys sids or pace rc range

I have 130mm Magura Menjas on my Soul - Waaay stiffer than my old bombers.

Can't say it ever holds me back, but I have never riddeen bolt thro enough to notice.

The dual arch design prob makes more difference.

QR it is then cash in the bank saved and out riding = one happy me!

I'm 95kg and never been described as delicate. I've run QR for god knows how long and never snapped one or seen one snap (prob will now...). Get a decent skewer, not some lightweight fancy crap, do it up tight and you'll be fine.

Nect question where can I get hold of an xt skewer?

Here: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=shimano+xt+skewer

Walked into that one!

I already looked and only found deore and xtr.

Spin - Member

15/20mm = emperors new clothes.

Weird. 20mm axles are one of the few upgrades I would actually pay a premium for. Good improvement imho.

In comparison, I can't recall much improvement from oversized handlebars for instance.

I can totally see the benefit for anyone who does downhill or uplift days etc.

My riding is xc, trail, etc

I guess its more of a choice for my style than a necessity on a AM/DH rig.

I run a 2002 Marzocchi Z1 on my HT. I build my own wheels and they are stiff enough with a QR axle not to rub the crown in turns.
in fact, most decent wheels are.
QR forks are fine. marketing bullshit is not.

I wouldn't worry! I doubt Steve Peat was downhilling with anything other than QR clamps a few years ago!

Ive just bought a pair of QR 2007 Fox Float RL 130mm for £150 - would recommend to anyone! They get smashed around the trails just 20 miles north of you with no probs!

Hi Mosey,
I have a brand new, unused, set of Fox Vanilla RL 140mm forks - these ones:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/forks-suspension/product/review-fox-racing-shox-32-vanilla-140-rl-10-37494/

If you're still after some QR forks?

I'm not sure of the steerer length because I'm sat in work, but I can check later if you're interested. They defo should be long enough though.

Bargain at £300 posted!

Cheers,
James

Hi Minty I'm opting for a U-turn fork but thanks very much for the offer.

MBR magazine will tell you that you absolutely have to have a 15 or 20 mm through axle as otherwise your front wheel will fall out and you'll die. A bit like when they said v-brakes were unsafe when one bike in a test still had them or that square taper cranks will round the tapers and fall off.

I'm just building a new Cove Stiffee frame and I'm using some QR Fox Float 130 forks from a few years ago and I'm sure they'll be up to the job, I remember the factory GT riders riding the world 4-cross on Rockshox Judy 100s with QR's and they never had issues.

I noticed the difference in stiffness going from 32mm QR forks to 36mm 20mm forks, but I think alot of that is down to the larger stanctions and the stiffness of the frame (I'd gone from an old Intense Tracer to a 6" travel Rocky Mountain Slayer). I'm quite happy with the QR forks for my hardtail, the 15 or 20 mm forks just look a bit tricker, but I'm not sure the performance benefit outways the cost.

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I got a pair of TALAS 140mm 15mm after having ridden 9mm QR for years. I did notice the difference, was stiffer, smoother etc. I also noticed the difference this year when I got a new bike with 100mm 9mm QR DT Swiss which apart from on droppy stuff were even more controlled than the now 3yr old TALAS 15mm.

I'd put 15mm in the "nice to have" box rather than "must", are a bunch of other upgrades I'd make to a bike before I started worrying about the shape of my front dropouts.

Gachet - your on the money mate - if mags think qrs and v brakes are unsafe they wantto be getting a new mechanic tbh .... Consumer manipulation at its best !

I only went 20mm on my dh bike because at the time 150mm++ forks only came in 20mm

My DX v brake on the back of my Kona is more powerful than my hydraulic discs on the other bike.

Like others have highlighted, just ride, it all works.

Was everyone crashing all the time without disc brakes and bolt through forks? I think not. Well, I was, but then I still do. 🙂

I really don't understand how people can comment they've noticed no increase in stiffness when changing to bolt through forks from QR. The 20mm revelations I'm using now are loads stiffer than the sets of QR revelations I used to own. I'm convinced one of the only reasons people started riding with 6" travel forks was because the (20mm) fox 36s and the like felt so amazing. I used to have 36's on a hartail. They've since been shelved, there really is no need for 160mm of travel on a hartail when 140mm can be (almost) as good.

I would agree that it's not worth waiting though. Buy some second hand forks and sell them without making a loss in a few months time when you can afford to change your hub.

Mosey: I also have a Dialled PA with QR Revelations. I've got Hope hubs so put in a 9mm thru (superstar) and it's great 😀

When I got my new wheels a while ago I got Hope hubs because I knew they can be converted between QR and 20mm, which was great when I decided to change from forks with QR to forks with 20mm. I'd recommend getting the QR fork now so you can get out and ride ASAP and then look at getting hubs that can be converted when/if you upgrade your wheels.

You could always swap lowers later if you want to try 15 or 20 mm from 9mm.

everything people say about QR being OK is true, I've got QR and they have been fine. If I was buying a new set through I would definitely go for some sort of bolt through. Qs dont work lose very often, but they do occasionally. Why risk it ?

and I am sure my 20mm forks are stiffer, I cant say by how much though as I've not got QR and 20mm versions of the same fork to compare

and I'm not just saying that so I can sell Mosey my wheel!

I read

well, on a 120-140mm steel hardtail frame, you would like the strength of a bigger axle, as it enhances the ride, after i went to 20mm from QR, i can tell you it makes a big difference. on bumpy stuff and turns it remains more controlled, feels stiffer and is more stable.

i remember having the wheel flex until it rubbed on my forks with quick release.

Qs dont work loose very often, but they do occasionally. Why risk it ?

I'd echo the sentiment about broken frames, its not an uncommon thread on most MTB forums but I have yet to read about a snapped QR or even of one coming loose.

I've never snapped one, I have had them become strangely loose and wobbly a couple of times though. Not reassuring

and I know you are going to say this is user error but anyway it doesn't happen with the Maxle on my other forks!

I have also snapped more frames than QRs 🙁

I had a front disc come loose on a ride but that was down to me not tightening the rotor bolts correctly. Made me feel slightly sick when I noticed, didn't have any tools with me either so rear brake only and a fair few 'moments' until I got back to the car!
You live and learn.

Well I bought some amazingly priced Sektors in QR as the travel and price was spot on.

Il get a front pro 2 at some point and upgrade the forks in a few years.

Oh and could someone keep an eye on my posts as if I don't post again I may have died! 😉

should be a good fork. my pikes were ace until I forgot to service or clean them for 3 years.

Does this relate to rear qr skewers also?, it seems that Orange 5 owners are always spaffing on about how the rear of their bikes are x times stiffer with the must have Maxle upgrade.

Does this relate to rear qr skewers also?

Not so much; one of the alleged advantages of bolt-through front axles of whatever size is that it's theoretically possible for disc brakes to eject your front wheel from QR dropouts under heavy braking. If you're interested in the technical arguments, they are [url= http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/ ]here.[/url] Not sure how much credence I give that lot; however, I'd always use a decent internal cam QR on the front (ie. Shimano) as they have a higher clamping force.

Andy

it seems that Orange 5 owners are always spaffing on about whatever piece of "evolution" the marketing men have sold them this week

FTFY