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  • 2015 Croix de Fer 1st ride (at last…)
  • ahwiles
    Free Member

    holdsteady – Member

    …I noticed that the frame is not Reynolds 725 steel like the CDF 20 & 30 and is “Genesis Mjolnir Seamless DB Cr-Mo” – how does that compare? Does the cheaper model feel dead in comparison? Worth shelling out more for the 20 model?

    my cdf has a ‘520’ sticker on it, my equilibrium has a ‘725’ sticker on it.

    how much difference can i ‘feel’? – none that i’m aware of.

    i would be extrememly surprised if the new “Mjolnir” tubing was not as ‘good’ as reynolds 520.

    i would not be surprised if it was in fact exactly the same stuff, from exactly the same factory, but without the expense of paying for the licence to call it ‘Reynolds’ tubing.

    (i’m not claiming that to be the case, but i wouldn’t be at all surprised)

    nodrog2
    Free Member

    Got a Croix de fer 30 on order, was due 21/12/14. That date has now gone back until the 18/1/15. Not sure if this date is valid for all pre orders but I did get my order in reasonably early. So check with your LBS if you have one on order.

    As for value, getting mine at trade price and on the bike to work scheme, so that’s about £700

    nodrog2
    Free Member

    Well mine turned up last month after a bit of a wait. Lovely bit of kit. A few little changes to make to it from stock. Shorter stem, women’s saddle (it’s my wife’s bike) and attempt some tubeless tyres. Looking forward to getting it mucky on some long rides come the Spring. Got the Sandstone Way pencilled in once the days get a little longer again.

    racefaceec90
    Full Member

    great write up,glad you love your new bike pp 🙂

    tbh i would love to get one for myself (just lacking the funds tbh).

    although there is a newish bike shop where i live that stocks genesis bikes (along with scott santa cruz e.t.c/really sucks when you are poor 😉

    i would go for the bike you bought if i had the money as i love the look of it.

    tonyd
    Full Member

    Mjolnir is the name of Thors hammer. It’s worth getting the 10 for that alone.

    houndlegs
    Free Member

    Heres my new bike all built up, few tweaks to make, bars dropped a bit and see where we go from there. I’ve had a few rides now and its very nice indeed 😀

    SAM_0842 by philipdixon36[/url], on Flickr

    iainc
    Full Member

    great bikes, love mine 🙂

    houndlegs
    Free Member

    Hows everybody finding the conti cyclocross speed tyres? I fancy some offroad tyres to get out and do some exploring now, but still want some sort of speed on the tarmac. Wiggle reviews have them as excellent,CRC have them as crap, too many punctures. So, whats the verdict here then, or is there something else worth having a nosey at?

    iainc
    Full Member

    I have done around 1000 miles on the cross speeds between this bike and previous. Only 1 puncture. They roll very well on road and are quite capable on trails. Crap in mud

    houndlegs
    Free Member

    Thanks ianc, they do look like just the kind of thing I’m after, I think I’ll give them a whirl.

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    Houndlegs… I have x2 cyclo-cross speeds taken off my 2015 croix…. With about 30 miles on. 26.99 on chain reaction (they are 35mm folding). I would do both for 30 Inc post and PayPal fees if you are interested.

    houndlegs
    Free Member

    yes please don, my email is in profile, let me know how your pp address

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    I agree with Iain. I wouldn’t bther changing the tyres unless I was gong seriously off road. When I wear mine out I’ll probably replace them with the same or very similar.

    On another note, I’ve got full dynamo lighting with USB charging on mine now, and I’m just about to do 3-400km touring round Belgium next week.

    Also, has everyone with the steel fork had their warranty replacement yet?

    isitafox
    Free Member

    Mine have been replaced I just need to go and pick it up tomorrow. As for the tyres I think the two reviews are two different types, one is the folding version and the other the standard. I’m sure it was the folding version that was horrendous for getting flats.

    matt303uk
    Full Member

    How are people finding the standover height?

    I recently tried a Specialized Diverge in 54cm and found the fit quite good especially the reach to the bars, the local bike shop can do me a very good value build on a Croix de Fer but with my short legs the top tube looks awfully high, dropping to a 52cm starts making the effective top tube a little short.

    benp1
    Full Member

    On the tyre front, do people notice a difference off road between a slick(ish) tyre and a lightly treaded one

    They’ll both be useful when its muddy, but on a dry track what’s the difference? I suppose when it’s wet there’ll be a small difference

    My cross bike had WTB Nano 40Cs but it’s currently running 32c marathon plus tyres, so have gone from small amount of tread to almost no tread

    bitasuite
    Free Member

    I’m thinking about getting some Knard 41 tyres. Does anyone know if they’ll fit?

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    I would say almost certainly yes.

    I run 40mm marathon supremes that come up just a tiny bit over measured with callipers. I have around 5/6 mm of clearance between the tyre and seat / chain stays. The closest bit is the swing arm on the front mech – this can get pretty darn close to the tyre (~2 mm or so) but never rubs. Could always file a bit off or just run a single ring.

    oh mine is the Croix 30 with carbon fork. around the same clearance between tyre and inside blade of the fork. I am not sure how wide the clearance will be on the steel fork of the Croix 10 or 20 mind you.

    iainc
    Full Member

    ^^don, did you ever get the brake lever travel sorted out ?

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    from here:

    http://www.einsteincycles.com/blog/what-we-like-wednesday-surly-knard-700×41

    “The tire comes in a 27tpi and 120tpi, with the latter serving as the tubeless option, depending on your rims. While the tire is a 41mm, the width of your rim will influence the actual diameter of the tire mounted. We measure the tire at 37mm on a more narrow road rim, and 42mm on a wider road rim, and 43mm on a 29er rim”

    I doubt you would be able to run guards or anything but if the 42mm is correct, you will have space for it.

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    yeah I did Iain, I just advanced the pads with a shim slightly narrower than the brake disc. This seats the piston slightly further out than it would do adjusting against the shimano disc.

    Lever bites almost immediately now. Also chucked a 180 disc on the front and some new race matrix pads and now I can stop on a sixpence.

    iainc
    Full Member

    I guess you did that as part of a bleed process ? Sounds a good result !

    I’ve not yet investigated how to get into the reservoir to bleed them !

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    I have bled them yes but you don’t need to do it to advance the pads. The trick is to close them up a fraction by using a slightly thinner than disc wedge. You can do it without a wedge and just pump the lever once.

    Definitely worth doing if you like minimal lever travel (like me).

    It’s real easy to get into the reservoir… Just peel back the rubber hood and you will see the filler plug.

    They bleed easy just like the mtb brakes…. Used the cup and all kit that I use on mtbs.

    iainc
    Full Member

    many thanks, will have a pop at that, cheers

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Well being as my thread has resurfaced again…..

    I’ve been riding the bike 4 days a week since I got a new job I could cycle to. So I’m putting on about 65 miles a week on it now, and it’s spot on for the job of bumping up and down kerbs, using cycle paths and carrying me and my lunch to work.
    I’ve also made a few changes:

    Far wiser to use lights that have a decent fitting system instead!

    They are now bolted on dynamo lights front and rear. Busch and Muller Luxos U (with USB charging) at the front linked to an Exposure dynamo. They work. I never turn them off.
    Wider bars and Bar Phat like I said I would, which help a LOT, and a Madison Flux (AKA Charge Spoon) saddle as the OE one was grim.
    I also did a 300 mile tour round Belgium on it, where I found don’t like ******* hate touring on drop bars. Never again.
    The bike was fine apart from that, oh, and a spate of punctures (6 in a mile) that had me relying on a kindly Frenchman (Still in France, just off the ferry) to take me to a bike shop for tubes and a new tyre.
    The OE Contis are nice, but they are paper thin. I must have ridden through some tiny shards of glass and I couldn’t find them to get them out, every time I pumped the tyre up it just punctured again. Be warned…..

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    You do like to moan about drops pp don’t you! See I am the opposite, I find touring on flats horrendous. Each to their own 😉

    But agree the stock contis are plop. I punctured twice on my very first ride. Week later swapped to marathon supremes and not a single puncture in 2000 miles. Damn….. Done it now haven’t I!

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    touring on flats horrendous

    It might be… Dunno… I use risers!

    This is my proper touring outfit:
    Flat pedals (ride in any shoes)
    Risers (Comfy, see the scenery)
    Discs (LOTS of weight to stop)
    Trailer (I carry most of the camping gear. We don’t travel particularly light)
    22/34 bottom gear (See above)
    26in wheels (Strength)

    Mrs PPs bike (Background) is a Ridgeback X3 hybrid. Calling it a hybrid is a disservice really, it’s closer to a lightweight 29er MTB. I’ve lowered the gearing to 22/32/44 + 12-36 and added rack, mudguards and a Spesh ladies saddle for her, but otherwise it’s box fresh. As far as I can see it’s the closest thing to a decent non-drop-barred tourer available right now.

    IMG_3527 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    IMG_3849 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Superficial
    Free Member

    I’m sure I’m massively missing the point here, but I feel compelled to ask (PP and other touring afficionados): When you’re loaded up like that, isn’t it incredibly slow? Where do you go?

    I think I would lose patience after half a mile, ditch the trailer and return home for some lycra and a road bike (and then pay for a B&B).

    firestarter
    Free Member

    Superficial its all about the journey not about how quick the journey is 😉

    doncorleoni
    Free Member

    Superficial…. YEAH tis very slow. Heavy and hard work. But it’s combining two of the things I love the most, camping outdoors and cycling. It’s the freedom to go where you want, do what you want and once unloaded and camp set up, explore.

    Oh and iain, meant to send this to you yesterday…. If you not seen it, here is the user manual for the sti levers regarding bleed and resevoir:

    https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=CJtVVbq0EsrC7Abu3YCIAw&url=http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php%3Ffile%3Dpdf/dm/DM-BR0008-00-ENG.pdf&ved=0CB8QFjAB&usg=AFQjCNGkMm1XtYBlmZNIRTKI6TjkEYLutg

    iainc
    Full Member

    many thanks for that link, cheers

    matttromans
    Free Member

    Based almost entirely on this thread I have just gone out and bought a CdF 10, just got it back to the office. The sun is shining, and there’s only an hour and a half to go til I can ride it home along the river! Can’t wait!

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    When you’re loaded up like that, isn’t it incredibly slow?

    Damn straight it is!!! What’s the rush? It’s all about the ride, seeing stuff you don’t see when you’re in a rush/in a car. Our moving average is usually around 8-10mph. I work on 1 hr per 10 miles plus an hour for a day’s touring, so 40 miles = 5 Hours, plus elevenses, lunch, a quick pint, a snooze under a tree…. that sort of thing.

    Where do you go?

    First time we did North Devon coast down to Padstow, over to the south coast and back up to Exeter
    We’ve also done Walney To Whitby then down to Scarborough ( http://cyclingw2w.info ) where I towed that trailer up to the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England.
    Also Newcastle to Edinburgh ( http://www.coast-and-castles.co.uk ) then back round to Berwick on Tweed
    Last year we did a route based on the Sustrans Celtic Trail ( http://www.sustrans.org.uk/ncn/map/route/celtic-trail-west ) and finished on the Gower for 3 days.
    This year its a route based on Hadrians Cycleway ( http://www.cycle-routes.org/hadrianscycleway/) and Lochs and Glens south ( http://www.sustrans.org.uk/ncn/map/route/lochs-and-glens-south ) basically Ravenglass-Carlisle-Glasgow
    We take the train to the start, then the train home from the end. It’s usually around the 300 mile mark in total, and it’s out main holiday.
    Few more pics?

    Campsite at a brewery? Ok then!
    IMG_3596 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    11 mile climb out of Innerleithen, midddle ring most of the way!
    IMG_2067 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Me
    IMG_2179 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    No cars
    IMG_2191 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Through a golf course
    IMG_2146 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Somewhere on the Yorkshire coast between Whitby and Scarborough
    IMG_1689 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Up to Tan Hill
    IMG_1514 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    You need to look for roads with grass growing down the middle!
    IMG_1494 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    Waiting for a ferry in Devon
    IMG_0194 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    This is why it’s slow!
    IMG_0091 by Peter Atkin[/url], on Flickr

    houndlegs
    Free Member

    Mr Poddy, thats living the dream son 😀

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    It’s fantastic. It’s THE BEST holiday ever. 🙂

    iainc
    Full Member

    Croix De Fer in natural habitat :

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    Bump!

    So, how good would a ’16 CdF 30 be for general winter road riding, with the occasional gravel foray? I’m thinking to lower my eye watering target of an Enigma Ecroix, but need to keep up on the road club rides.

    It’d need to sit on the turbo as well, how does Rynolds 731 deal with sweat – a serious corrosion concern? 8)

    whitestone
    Free Member

    I’ve the CDF10 (2016 version) and it’s fine for that use, you might have your work cut out on the club rides though 😛

    Drape a towel over the top tube plus make sure you wipe it down afterwards and you’ll be fine.

    iainc
    Full Member

    The 16 one is a bit cheaper than the 15 version, but loses the carbon fork. Mine does all my winter road, some quiet rough road touring and a few gravel forays. Very pleased with it and would imagine the 2016 one is similar.

    I don’t have a turbo, but can’t imagine it would corrode unless you sweat acid 😀

    Superficial
    Free Member

    Yeah I love mine (2015 cdf20) as a winter road bike. I presume you’ll use a spare wheel on the turbo – although the stock tyres are reasonably slick in the centre I think they’d be annoying.

    As above, you’ll find keeping up on club runs that bit harder but you’ll be grateful of the extra speed come summer.

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