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  • 105 / road single ring setup (big tyres and mudguard content)
  • Ben_H
    Full Member

    I’v just built up a Surly Straggler, with 50mm muguards and a 105 5800 groupset. This is my do-it-all road bike, for commuting and leisurely road rides including the odd sportive and tour. I have two sets of wheels for it: 41c Knards on heavier wheels and 28c Conti GP4S on lighter wheels.

    The 5800 / 11speed 105 front derailleur has a longer cable pinch arm than older models, which fouls the rear mudguard and possibly the Knard tyre when shifted into the higher (bigger) gear setting. This is a known issue with 11sp Shimano front mechs (link).

    I’m concerned that this issue will persist with the Knards, even if I cut out part of the rear mudguard. I say this because the issue isn’t there when I run the skinnier wheels with mudguards.

    This brings me to a 1x setup – and whether they give enough range for a “road” bike.

    Is anyone here running 5800 105 (or similar) as a 1x system? I have an 11-32 cassette at the back and was wondering about a 40T single ring (or even larger)?

    Posted 8 years ago
    Turnerfan1
    Free Member

    Yes,
    Running a 38 tooth ring with 11-32 105.
    This is for cross racing but could go higher on the road.
    Make sure you run narrow wide and up the spring tension on the rear mech and you will be fine.
    Instructions on spring tension are on the absolute black and park websites.
    Thanks,
    Max

    Posted 8 years ago
    jimdubleyou
    Full Member

    I read somewhere that the Dura-Ace (9000 maybe) has a short arm and is compatible if you want to keep your double.

    Worth checking out (and reporting back here so you can confirm to me 😛 )

    Posted 8 years ago
    HoratioHufnagel
    Free Member

    On the road i’m almost never out of the 50t chainring with 11-32 at the back.

    I think someone makes an adapter so you can run an MTB 11 speed mech and 11-42t cassette.

    Posted 8 years ago
    Ben_H
    Full Member

    It seems that the Dura Ace 9100 front mech forgoes a lever arm altogether, in response to this very issue.

    I’ll have to decide now between:

    a) cutting out a section from the rear mudguard (no guarantee of success);
    b) a single ring @ c.£50, or;
    c) a Dura Ace front mech @ £100.

    Decisions, decisions!

    Posted 8 years ago
    richardthird
    Full Member

    40t will be fine.

    Posted 8 years ago
    STATO
    Free Member

    Surly straggler? do the proper thing and fit a triple chainset, all the gears for a bike that can go anywhere and uses a different front mech (and shifter, doh!) so no mudguard/mech issue.

    Posted 8 years ago
    cyclistm
    Free Member

    I’d try a single ring, works great on my do it all bike in 40tooth. The (older) superstar ones are great (I’ve not used the raptor) and if you wait for the inevitable voucher code much cheaper than the £50 you have budgeted for.

    Posted 8 years ago
    Ben_H
    Full Member

    Ooh, the Superstar one is even UK-made.

    I’m riding this bike every day, so I may just have to get one without waiting for a discount. 🙁

    Posted 8 years ago
    Nipper99
    Free Member

    I wouldn’t go single ring as you will be limiting yourself especially in hillier terrain.

    Posted 8 years ago
    cyclistm
    Free Member

    in that case, at less than £20 for the older one, its worth a punt. I’m running a 40tooth on my pro 6 with a 12-25 cassette which is fine for the south downs and my road commute (with 40mm Nanos).

    It may not be quick enough on the road though.

    http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

    Posted 8 years ago
    faustus
    Full Member

    Never mind function, how will the 5800 chainset look with a N/W single ring? The spider is quite sculpted the the shape of the standard ring…if you do it post pics please, as i’m contemplating it for my bike!

    Posted 8 years ago
    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    40/32 with 700c 41mm tyres would be too tall for me if I was riding somewhere hilly. But you may be fine.

    As others have said, the Superstar NW chainrings are so cheap you could just chuck one on and give it a go. I’d say 38T would be a better bet though. (I’m running a 42T, but with an 11-42 not 32).

    Posted 8 years ago
    Ben_H
    Full Member

    Perhaps rashly, I’ve ordered a 42T 4-bolt 110 Superstar Raptor ring.

    Thanks to the people on this thread, I can see that there are loads of options (including different cranksets, front derailleurs and rings). I figured a single ring was the best balance between risk and cost.

    I ran a 40T Alfine crankset with a 10sp 11-32 cassette and 37c tyres earlier this year on another bike. I toured a hilly Northumbrian routes on that setup, so I’ve got a rough feel for the range.

    I don’t expect it to look pretty, but I’ll post a pic when it’s done. 🙂

    Posted 8 years ago
    will
    Free Member

    I’ve got 1×10 and 1×9 on my road and cross bikes.

    The road bike (1×10) is running a Stronglight 47T front ring and a 11-28 cassette. No narrow wide chain ring and just a standard 4 year old 105 mech. Only dropped the chain once in about 9 months of riding.

    Cross bike is a similar setup, but a 36T raceface narrow-wide ring and a 12-27 9 speed cassette. I’m running a Sora mech on this and again, no issues.

    Posted 8 years ago
    piersriley
    Free Member

    Have run a 42t front hope chainring with a 12-30 10sp rear setup and it was perfect for cross and road riding.

    Have now put a 40t to sell it, in case the buyer is after a slightly easier gear.

    Loved the 1×10 setup for commuting and shorter, more leisurely riding!

    Posted 8 years ago
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