Home › Forums › Bike Forum › 1 x 11 – not convinced
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1 x 11 – not convinced
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highlandmanFree Member
2×9 here, regularly riding in the Highlands and I’d not be without my lowest gear- 22 ring turning 32 cog, so 0.69 or a bit lower again than 2×10 and a noticeable amount lower than 1×11. Plus a better, more useable range overall and a higher top gear at 36t x 11. 1×11 is all very well in some geographies but would be a bit silly up here, to put it mildly. Using old 2×9 kit is both cheaper and much more durable too, with steel ring options and allows me to use a decent bash ring, which is essential for preventing folding or ground down rings.
Stop buying into the marketing BS on 1×11. You can get a chain, a cassette, crank with rings and BB and still have change for the price of a typical 11t cassette. And 9s will last longer too!andytherocketeerFull Memberthe most efficient cadence is the one that feels right for you
pretty much what convert says. Done the sums, and 28x 10-42 would give me basically the granny and middle of my 3×9 setup. Losing a gear at the top end wouldn’t matter much. I tend to ride most of the time in the big ring, and end up spinning the granny to winch up hills for 20mins to 3 hours at a go depending where I am. That’s all assuming 26inch. Would have to choose a different chainring for 29 I expect, and guessing that 650b would barely matter. unless it’s that other 27+ “fashion”
chiefgrooveguruFull MemberI noticed the difference between 26 and 27.5 – running 1×10 both bikes had 34t chainrings but I changed the 27.5 to 32t.
The nice thing about 1x is frames can be designed around a much less varied chain line, so better optimised for good pedalling without kickback.
coreFull MemberI’ve a 3×9 set up on my 26″ soul, lowest is 22-32. I can spin that bottom gear quite nicely on the steep stuff, and wouldn’t really want to be any higher.
On my scandal I went 2×10, 26-36 is lowest. That takes a bit of pushing uphill compared to the soul, but I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s any harder, just different. You build more momentum and carry more speed, so it just sort of ticks along.
But I reckon I could lose the big ring on the soul, as for the type of riding I do with it I barely ever use it. A clutch mech would be nice though, shame they don’t exist for 9spd.
I may get a full sus frame, in which case I was thinking I’d go 1×10, but maybe not…….
muppetWranglerFree MemberIt’s not for me. I use the same bike for all sorts of riding and if I had it set up so that I could handle the steeper climbs I would miss the higher gears for tow path hacks and on road sections of routes.
nickcFull MemberDo you genuinely think they have the best interests of other people at their heart
Obviously they’re looking after their shareholders, but, yeah I ‘genuinely’ think that most designers set out to build a better mousetrap. Weird huh? 😆
1X11 works for a ‘lot’ of people and it won’t for another ‘lot’. c’set la vie.
EDIT: forgot, mostly for me (and I’m a resolutely average mountain biker BTW), I run out of gears at the other end!
convertFull MemberThe nice thing about 1x is frames can be designed around a much less varied chain line, so better optimised for good pedalling without kickback.
That is true – often overlooked advantage of 1X
alexhFree MemberThe negative posts here include a lot of if’s. The maths stack up for ratio’s, if you get the opportunity, try it.
Losing the front mech and moving my reverb control makes up for losing a little bit of gearing.
Sometimes working a bit harder results in some improvements to your fitness.
Last year I would not have entertained a 1x set up.
ahwilesFree Memberconvert – Member
That is true – often overlooked advantage of 1X
or, an often overlooked advantage of a multi-ring setup is that you can change the pedal-feedback behaviour of the system, simply by changing gear.
andytherocketeerFull MemberIf someone can make a 1×11 that has a 9-56 tooth cassette, then if I’ve done the sums right, that’d go nicely with a 36t chainring and give me the ratio range I desire. 3×9 with no overlaps must be a bonus surely?
Guessing I’d need a Rohloff and the right ring/sprocket to get that?
STATOFree Memberor, an often overlooked advantage of a multi-ring setup is that you can change the pedal-feedback behaviour of the system, simply by changing gear.
Has anyone done that since the original marin
trail-questmount vision 😆 Great climber that was when in the granny ring.hooliFull MemberLosing the front mech and moving my reverb control makes up for losing a little bit of gearing.
I think this is a big reason why people do it TBH. The weight saving reason is bollox.
convertFull Memberor, an often overlooked advantage of a multi-ring setup is that you can change the pedal-feedback behaviour of the system, simply by changing gear.
I’ve yet to hear of a designer stating that multiple chainrings could be an advantage to suspension design – more usual for a system to be designed around one ideal chainring and the others being a compromise. Not having to make that compromise acceptable has to free up the the designer to improve the system in other ways.
charliemortFull Memberwell my 2 x 10 stuff is nearly worn out so I’m considering it
i reckon sram 1150 cassette, xd driver, chainring, and xt shifter / mech would be about £300, cheaper if you get the xt cassette as wouldn’t need the driver
my current low gear is 24 / 36 = 0.67 (this is on a 29’er). I don’t use this much but it does allow me to winch up some steep bits without getting off, or accelerate over tricky roots etc. I do use 24 / 32 quite a bit
28 / 42 would give me the same low gear at 0.67, 30 / 42 I could probably go with (only about 7% difference to 24 / 36)
so my concern would more me around top gear. 28 or 30 / 11 (Shimano) would be lower than an old school middle ring, so I can only see me going SRAM for the 10. 30 / 10 is close to 38 / 13 so I’d lose my fastest gear (38 / 11)
so it seems I’d lose about half a low gear and my fastest gear if 1 went 30 up front with 10 / 42
M6TTFFree Memberwent from 3×9, to 1×11. Not found anything I can no longer climb. more than happy with it.
ahwilesFree Memberconvert – Member
I’ve yet to hear of a designer stating that multiple chainrings could be an advantage to suspension design
he may not thank me, but i was para-phrasing Cy Turner.
he didn’t present it as a clear-cut reason for sticking with multiple chainrings, just that there are interesting things that curious bike-geeks might enjoy thinking about.
chiefgrooveguruFull Membernickc, the 26″ bike used to have a 32t. In the last five years I’ve gone:
3×9 (42-32-22 11-32)
2×9 (36-22 11-32)
2×9 (36-22 11-34)
2×9 (32-22 11-34)
1×9 (32 11-34)
1×10 (32 11-36)
1×10 (33 11-36)
1×10 (34NW 11-36)Been on 1×10 for about 3 years, the last set-up for 2 years. Had the 27.5 full-sus 18 months, swapped from 34NW to 32NW 9 months ago.
moneytrain81Free MemberSo many hilarious generalisation posts here. All against the idea of 1x as well funnily enough.
I’m terribly unfit frankly and have noticed no drop in what I can and can’t go up since I went 1×9 first and now 1×10 (11-40t & 32t).
A lot of the ‘arguments’ against are from people who haven’t seemingly used it, and consider advancing of technology (or just a different option as thats all it is) in any field of bikes to seemingly be black magic or something. Something other than 26″ wheels?!!!! Dear God, you heathens!! And so on.
Also, the bike looks a damn site nicer in a 1x setup
The bar is far less cluttered
It saved some weightDon’t say there is no advantage to it existing. Just say that you personally don’t want to use it, and move on.
traildogFree MemberI find a front mech is alright for trail centre riders who ride smooth terrain and therefore aren’t so worried about their chain slapping around. However, for riding real mountains in the lakes, I have found a 1x setup to be a revelation.
On difficult terrain, the main problem is traction rather than gearing and so even if you have lower gearing you end up not using it or your wheel will spin.
Both systems have their compromises so there will be people who will always prefer one over the other. I’m not sure what there is “not to get” though.
chiefgrooveguruFull MemberA couple of things I’ve found about climbing in less low gears is that your power stroke is longer and the force impulse at the tyre is less sharp, so it seems easier to get up and over more lumpy slippery bits.
nickcFull MemberChief, your progression isn’t hugely different to me! Only I’ve stopped here:
1×10 (32 11-36)
but with an NW ring.
happy with it, but might try a 34T to regain a bit at the high end
kudos100Free MemberIf you can’t ride 30t 11-42, then you should probably take up golf or another sport that involves motor powered vehicles.
STATOFree MemberI find a front mech is alright for trail centre riders who ride smooth terrain and therefore aren’t so worried about their chain slapping around. However, for riding real mountains in the lakes, I have found a 1x setup to be a revelation.
Have you tried 3×10 with a clutch mech? done a lot of rocky riding on mine and never had a drop, the fact i can put it in the big ring cuts noise from chainslap on the chainstay compared to my 1×10 bike with its smaller ring.
On difficult terrain, the main problem is traction rather than gearing and so even if you have lower gearing you end up not using it or your wheel will spin.
Terrain such as drainage gaps can require you to hold a higher speed or higher gear for a ‘punch’ of speed. But these scenario are not all the time tho, and having a lower gear is always nice regardless.
andytherocketeerFull MemberIt’s not just about the bottom end. It’s easy to pick a ratio for that. It’s not possible to pick a ratio for that, and still keep all the top end ratios too.
And some of us ride up alps, not just a peak or a trail centre uplift van.
coreFull Memberchiefgrooveguru
the force impulse at the tyre is less sharp+
I’ll have to take your word on that……….
I was at c-y-b on Saturday, riding my prehistoric bike with 3×9, and found that I did lose the chain a bit, and didn’t use the big ring, so 2×10 with clutch mech would probably be a bit better option, but I ride all over the place, on the same bike, so having options is best for me. There will always be compromises, but for now I’d rather have more gears, and drop the occasional chain, than less.
And this ‘far less on the bars’ stuff is rather exaggerating the matter, you lose one cable, and one shifter, shimano sit neatly under brakes anyway, so hardly any difference. It just allows you a nicer dropper remote position.
NorthwindFull Memberandytherocketeer – Member
It’s not just about the bottom end. It’s easy to pick a ratio for that. It’s not possible to pick a ratio for that, and still keep all the top end ratios too.
Yup; but 32:11 is pretty high for offroad- bearing in mind downhill bikes are usually only geared to 36:11.
mikewsmithFree MemberEasy answer fashion led crap forced on us poor mountain bikers.
Real answer genuine change in thinking that works slagged off by people who have never tried it or can’t do the maths.andytherocketeerFull Memberdepends what you ride
32:11 is not particularly high at all
basically in to freewheeling territory instead of pedalling on quite a bit of terrain I’d be riding. as I said, I ride the big ring much of the time, and that’s 44t.
TheSliderFree MemberI rode up a particular hill near me on my old 3×9 bike 2 days before getting my new bike with 1×11. I can happily say, I got up with both, sometimes ‘wishing’ I had just one more gear – but don’t we all think that occasionally ?
If your bike comes with 1×11 then you are VERY lucky. If you want to add it to your current bike -don’t !! It’s far too expensive. Simples !
As a rider who was always sooo reluctant to move away from 8 speed, I can honestly say I absolutely LOVE my 1×11 more than anything I’ve ridden.RadiomanFull MemberBy the way the problem for me with the above 30t 11-42 ratio Kudos mentioned is not on the climbing its at the other end 30 into 11 is a bit too low for most as a top gear.
I use 2×10 at the moment on two of my bikes 2×9 on the other that gives me an ideal spread of ratios. Im fit enough to enjoy riding, and ride up mountains. Thanks for the advice Kudos but I am happy mountain biking and don’t want to do motorsport. The one thing you should learn is that there are many different styles and opinions in riding MTBs none are wrong. Thats why we have rigids, single speeds fat bikes DH bikes XC bikes Jump Bikes and Trail bikes Trial bikes and others.
gelertFree MemberI went 3×10 with 10-36 to 1×10 32T with 10-36 over a year ago and I’ve found that I immediately just got further up awkward stuff to begin with because of the momentum carried into it with 1×10 and not having to do an emergency granny shift that could drop a chain has been amazing.
I also found that traction is the limiting factor with any setup. If it’s so steep the 1×10 won’t do it the 3×10 wouldn’t have done it either, I found.
I ride the mountains in North Wales plus the normal TC stuff. Anything I’ve got off and walked has been because no bike would get up it or I’m at an Enduro race and pushing up is just plain fashionable + saves energy. I pretty much have to fall off before I’ll give in and push when I’m out on solo rides. I get really annoyed with myself if I didn’t manage a climb and I’ll go back to the bottom and try again.
I will admit that certain very long climbs, say over 3 miles, on uphill fire roads or when you’re very tired can be a little draining but the 1×10 system has made me fitter. Winter can be challenging too but it’s great for fitness.
I love 1×10. Saves weight. Chain never comes off. Looks better. You make better use of all the cassette cogs. It’s cheap and easy to maintain if you stick to 1×10 and buy XT cassettes, SRAM chains and a N/W chainring. Job lot wearable drive-train costing £33+£16+£35. Switch the chain every 450 to 650 miles and it never misses a beat.
I’m running 26 inch wheels and I’m happy riding Jumps, Drops, AM, XC, Trail, Enduro, DH or Free ride. It’s just Mountain Biking for fun.
no_eyed_deerFree Member1×11 is old hat anyway.
1×12 is where everything’s headed.. 8)
Much better.
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🙄kudos100Free MemberI use 2×10 at the moment on two of my bikes 2×9 on the other that gives me an ideal spread of ratios. Im fit enough to enjoy riding, and ride up mountains. Thanks for the advice Kudos but I am happy mountain biking and don’t want to do motorsport. The one thing you should learn is that there are many different styles and opinions in riding MTBs none are wrong. Thats why we have rigids, single speeds fat bikes DH bikes XC bikes Jump Bikes and Trail bikes Trial bikes and others.
I was just trolling the troll. Not serious at all. 😀
GoldiggerFree MemberWhats wrong with you lot, 3×11 is the way forward..
Surely having 33 gears is better than 10/11, who had the most gears was always the best when I was a kid.
😀andytherocketeerFull MemberNew Shimano XT it is then 🙂
Sram only bothered to do 1×11 and 2×11. At least Shimano give options.
Personally, I’m waiting for 1×13 shimano.
BadlyWiredDogFull MemberWhy is it that no-one seems to talk about cadence, torque or power on these threads?
Are you saying people are doping? 😉
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