It’s a 5mm hex bit from my Wera torque wrench. And it’s stuck in there…
Tap it anticlockwise with a punch to release the tension?
Assume you've tried pliers/mole grips and can't get a good enough purchase?
I'd squirt some lubricant in there, and try pliers/mole grips (again), wiggle it about a bit and initially turn it in the opposite direction to how you were turning it when the hex broke, to try and release the tension.
Looking at the bolt next to it, it's it torx, or just chewed up? 🤣
Have you been an idiot? (said in jest 😉)
Molegrips would be my first port of call - first on the broken bit and if that doesn't work, on the bolt itself - if you can get a spare
Molegrips would be my first port of call - first on the broken bit and if that doesn't work, on the bolt itself
if you can't get it out, I'd be inclined (very carefully) to try and hacksaw / file a couple of flat edges (top and bottom) to the bolt and get a spanner on it rather than molegrips.
Id say the bolt is toast. I assume you were tightening? So the bolt should turn when unloaded? Dremmel the head off. Or if you think it's possibly seized, file 2 flats on the bolt for a spanner.
Looks like there's enough meat on whats left to get some grips on it.
Such an oh shit moment when stuff like that happens!
If you do get the bolt out, and want to replace like for like, ping me a message; I've got 3 of the original Pipedream dropout bolts left (I swapped mine out for something a bit beefier after rounding out one of the bolts the very first time I tried to tension the chain after first getting my Moxie! 🫣)
Managed to get the broken bit out with the mole grips - I think it bounced off my ear as it flew by but no blood…
I was undoing it to replace the chain - all four were done up to 25Nm before, three were fine, this one just seems totally seized. Only a few weeks since it was last adjusted to tighten the chain…
Where did you get the beefier bolts from? M6 x 12mm seems to usually be 4mm hex in this head type which is even worse than the current 5mm!
Might pop into the LBS tomorrow with it, they know all the tricks… Most of my tools are at work nowadays!
SJS Cycles are good on things like bolts.
For example these chainset bolts that are M6 with what looks like an M5 head?
Not sure if the bolt head would be big enough with those.
Looks like the old ones are button head screws. Ideally you need cap head, which use the next size up hex. Looks like they will fit. You may need a washer as well.
Given that Wera are usually the answer to any "what tool" thread, that's quite impressive.
25Nm on M6 seems to be a little excessive.
4mm hex key will be a struggle. Minimum 5mm socket head cap screw as suggested ^^ in a higher grade steel. Torx head is a consideration.
Maybe a hex head set screw would be better if you have the room to wield a spanner?
It might have been 15Nm - I always ended up hunting through the interweb to check the recommended torque. Or was it 12Nm. Or did I just get confused and go the full 25?! Whatever, I shall get some sturdier bolts because even with a good hex these go out of shape pretty fast. The question is internal hex, torx or external hex?
A quick google shows that Paragon Machineworks sliding dropouts have 24-26Nm on an M8 bolt, and a less accurate google says that pipedream have the same spec on an M6, which is a bit naughty (As a 12.9 grade M6 has a max torque of 16.8Nm. I just checked.)... So i reckon you'd be better with a *bit* less when you do them back up! And some better bolts.
Do you think there’s enough space between the two bolts to get a socket on if I switch to an external hex? Looks like that would be a 10mm socket.
Given that Wera are usually the answer to any "what tool" thread, that's quite impressive.
Depending on how hard it was being leant on I'm either impressed that the tool snapped before the fastener rounded out or disappointed that the tool snapped.
The question is internal hex, torx or external hex?
I 'think' Torx will survive repeated use best. I'm discounting external hex on the basis of ugliness and potentially awkward access but they are cheap and easy to get hold of to give a try.
Looking at the bolt next to it, it's it torx, or just chewed up?
I think that is the result of Wera Hex Plus and a bit too much oomph for the material
I’d pop into NAMRICK (nut and bolt) on Portland Rd and get some cap headed bolts to replace the dome headed ones you have. I have the dome ones on my on one huntsman and they’re pretty crap for torquing up as they are just too shallow.
Nice work getting it out. Minor point, if you're removing something, the general rule is a normal wrench is preferable to a torque wrench
“Minor point, if you're removing something, the general rule is a normal wrench is preferable to a torque wrench”
Two wrenches?! I’m not made of money! 😉
“I’d pop into NAMRICK (nut and bolt) on Portland Rd and get some cap headed bolts to replace the dome headed ones you have.”
Done! Stainless steel cap head plus 18mm washers. Rayments have been left with the challenge of getting that bolt out…
