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Breakthrough: a standard 11-36 works first time, out of the box. I didn't even have to adjust the cables or screws. Spot bollock on, click and go. I think this establishes my assembly is OK as are the components, it's probably a compatibility issue.
OP - I remember reading that Canflied use a 135mm maxle for a 142mm hub,
Correct.
which I thought was a bit odd at the time, is the hanger also set further inboard than usual?
Could be, though I was wondering if the variable in question was the vertical distance between the axle and the RM attachment.
I'll drop Canfield a mail and ask them. Watch this space.
@conan yes that's me I'm sure.
Best suggestion is to back the B screw right off, reset to give the absolute minimum clearance at the 40T sprocket with the cage in working position and without chain. Then try that.
I did that, it just moved the issue elsewhere.
Did you back B screw off all the way.
With a short hanger drop and a possible, inset hanger too, you may not need much tension at all.
Otherwise, good luck, I have to go to work now.
Did you back B screw off all the way.
Yup, right to the point where the shifts on and off the 40T were failing.
@alexsimon ta for pic, Skitch lives!
rotating the mech around based on reggiegasket's
how do I do that?
From your pictures it's not a direct mount mech then.
It is according to this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m786-shadow-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod83162
it has RD-M786 stamped under the cable arm, so that's it.
Description's wrong. That's not direct mount.
People seem to be suggesting rotating it as I drew isn't possible.
And as you said 'how do I do that?', I now assume they're right.
I thought you could just loosen it and rotate it.
Description's wrong. That's not direct mount.
OK. Out of my depth on the tech here so will take your word for it.
The direct mount mech is the same as the mech you have but you remove the top link and bolt it direct to the hanger. 🙂
mattjg - Member
Description's wrong. That's not direct mount.
OK. Out of my depth on the tech here so will take your word for it.
SSStu's pic on page 1 is direct mount. Not much in it, but the direct mount mechs forego the b-knuckle that standard ones have.
ok, I think the terminology confusion is that the RM is Direct Mount compatible by removal of the knuckle.
But my sliders aren't I think so my set up is 'correct' for the components I have.
Would a longer outer gear cable push the back of the mech down and rotate the whole lot as per the pic with the arrow above?
Yep it does seem correct for a N9.
no. mech position is fixed at the point where it bolts into the hanger/slider. the cable is cut to fit that not vice versa.
(singlespeed rocks! but for now I need gears).
Like i said earlier i had the same problem when fitting a general lee to my old Canyon
[img] 
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When i fitted a new chain the problem went away, basically my chain length was much too short.
do you remember how many links you added?
No Mate, sadly not. i purchased a new chain. The General lee converter was also 42t So would be different to the T-rex
Definitely the b-link angle being wrong as Reggie suggested. Loosen the main mounting bolt and it should snap into position unless the b-link is damaged.
nay, it's mounted properly, the tab of the RM nestling on the tab of the dropout
Canfield say they have no experience of range extender cogs, so that's inconclusive I guess.
My money's on non-compatible, though I'll try again with a longer chain when I get time.
Anyway am up and running with an 11-36 fine, no biggie.
A oneup RAD cage uses less b screw tension rotating the mech forward to a more normal angle. The main aim of the RAD cage was to get better chain wrap on the smaller sprockets for shimano mechs by rotating the mech as has been suggested.
I've just installed the cage and it brought the b screw back out about 3 to 4mm, not quite as far as it was with just the 36 sprocket but it has helped bring the mech back to a more normal angle.
There is a gigantic thread on mtbr about oneup vs woolftooth where a few people have the same problem and the consensus was filing a bit off the mech arm but they haven't tried the new cage yet to see if it fixes the problem. I wouldn't be keen on filing myself though.
ps folks saying the second knuckle bolt should be below, not above, the first, I looked at a bunch of pics of installs on other frames, you're right that's how they look.
@conkers yeah maybe I'll try a RAD. I don't mind filing the mech if essential but first want to be sure it's not my goofage that's the issue. did you order your RAD from the US or is there a UK stockist?
They have a uk warehouse I ordered Monday afternoon and it was here by Wednesday morning.
Your mech needs to be a medium cage though. I had to wait another day to get a medium GS inner cage plate from petra cycles to convert my long cage slx.
ta - the jockey wheels on my mech are 80mm apart centre to centre, do you know if that's a medium?
Your in luck my rad cage is 80mm bolt to bolt the long cage is 95.
ta
pps for folks suggesting RM may be mounted incorrectly - looks right to me
[img] 
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Can you not just slide the dropouts back a bit (couple of mm)?
Ignore that ^ , dont know what I was thinking.
it took you an hour tho ... 😉
Could you file down the stop on the dropout to effectively give it more rotation? Its possibly cheaper to replace and less structural than filing the mech. Its probably ba*d hard and nigh on impossible to do too.
Ive got the same setup on my 5 but my problem has been unshipping the chain, ive just taken a couple of links out hope I havent changed the problem!
Hi folks,
picking up and old thread...
mattjg, did you ever get this resolved?
I've got the exact same issue with a Cannondale Jekyll (2011 era) and medium cage xt. New mech, new chain, cassette in good condition.
Chain fouls on mech arm in the 24t-28t region, mech looks like it's hanging at some ridiculous angle. Have tried wranging the b-tension in/out, doesnt help.
I've taken off the 40t for now and everything works fine with standard 11-36 cassette.
Did swapping in a RAD cage change anything? My next step was to either buy one and try it or to take a file to the mech arm?
Thanks in advance 🙂
Hi, no I didn't. I didn't try a RAD cage, I don't see how that would fix it.
A file to the RM probably would.
i would get the file out take a few mm off the point where the mech touches the hanger. this will give you a little extra swing which is what you need.
This happened to me. As someone mentioned before, the chain is too short - it causes the arm of the mech to sit in that unique position where it just interferes with the cassette.
Easy solution - add about 4 links to the chain and it will work fine.
maybe I try a longer chain later today if I get bit of time, got to be worth a whizz so then when I looked before I couldn't see how it would.
no joy, I added 4 links and spent some time fettling, there is no way to all the shifting working smoothly, I can get the top and bottom OK if I accept jumps in the middle, I cam sort the middle but then not get the bottom 40T.
there is no combo of settings of cable tension and B screw I can find to make it all work.
I put my regular 11-36 back on, it worked perfectly immediately.
Only when I bent my medium cage XT mech did it started to foul my 40t ring. Are you sure your mech hanger is perfectly straight and the b screw is fully screwed in?
Having this same issue with my 2010 zesty. Bugger. Don't really want to file down the derailleur,did anyone have any luck filing down the mech hanger tab?
I've done neither but intend to file the mech on the grounds (for my frame) it's easier to replace.
Mrs Stu will be picking up a 2015 Nimble 9 in January.
It'll mainly be used as a singlespeed but every now and again it might sprout gears.
I'll have a mess about with a 42T and rad cage on there and see what happens.
but intend to file the mech on the grounds (for my frame) it's easier to replace.
I think that's the right way to go about it. Easier to change the top knuckle on the mech than try to get a new slider.
yes provided that little arm isn't hollow - it might be.