Viewing 32 posts - 41 through 72 (of 72 total)
  • Show me your 22 lbs – 10kg FS bike?
  • zoo200
    Free Member

    Buy the 15″ version of your frame that’ll save weight

    njee20
    Free Member

    A 22lb bike would be useless to me as in 6ft and 16 stone how heavy is the op?

    It wouldn’t, a light bike is a light bike, it will still climb better for you than a 15kg bike.

    monkeyp
    Full Member

    My stock Scalpel 29er 1 is 23lb. A mates older Scalpel 26er was 22lb without a dropper. He now has a dropper on his, but I bet with 1x he could get there.

    Great bikes as well.

    zoo200
    Free Member

    When I was racing about 8 years ago or so, my 23lb cannondale had a weight limit of 95kgs

    njee20
    Free Member

    Ok, my 19lb Superfly hardtail doesn’t have a weight limit. This isn’t 8 years ago.

    Technically the 115g seatpost does, but change that and it’s fatty compatible! 😉

    jam-bo
    Full Member
    DickBarton
    Full Member

    Going 26″ will also reduce weight…650b and 29″ are going to add weight so you need to decide if overall weight is more important than the perceived gains of larger wheels…

    br
    Free Member

    The lightest my 20″ 456Ti got to was 22lbs (c/w pedals), it’s now at 26.5lbs with a dropper.

    Why has it gained so much weight? Because I’ve gone from living in the Home Counties to the Scottish Borders and have pretty much destroyed all the lighter components over the last 6 years…

    The only things left on it from build day are the XTR front mech and the steerer spacers.

    As others have said, it can be too light, although having an unlimited budget can help – managed to break 3 XTR rear mechs one year 😯

    jameso
    Full Member

    Ive often wondered if you can notice say 1 lb in the real world.

    The weight plays heavier on the mind than the legs ..

    re WC courses/bikes/riders etc, remember that those guys have full pit support and get free stuff, bikes with a yearly trip to the local shop for a service plus intermittent home faffing will have reduced lifespans and high bills )

    monkeyp
    Full Member

    Zoo200 – 8 years ago a lot of parts had weight limits or should have or were generally badly designed in an aim to save weight.

    All of the Cannondales I have owned haven’t had a weight limit and have had a lifetime warranty on the frame. I am guessing to gain customer confidence after they had issues on older frames. Anyway, there are plenty of stock full sus frames where 22lb can be reached without being silly.

    somafunk
    Full Member

    From memory this very useable 140mm travel build came at 23.5lb and not much change from £6k so for a 22lb build you’d be looking at a xc race type machine.

    dirtyrider
    Free Member

    magic scales with the above

    wheels are heavy
    LUST tyres are heavy
    XTR Trail Pedals are heavy
    Triple with Mech/Shifter is heavy
    Dropper is heavy
    Saddle looks like a standard Gobi – thats heavy

    tomhoward
    Full Member

    Was just thinking that….

    somafunk
    Full Member

    Was fitted with carbon gobi, easton haven stem and nobby nic/r-ralph tyres (fitted when they came in to stock) and full ti bolt kit, weighed on the shop scales as below, no reason to really doubt them, wheels weigh 1420g – is that heavy?.

    warren569
    Free Member

    What is it they say “strong, light, cheap….pick two”

    teamslug
    Free Member

    Re the Ibis above. You’ll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr’s. 1420 grammes is a light wheel set.

    mashiehood
    Free Member

    You’ll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr’s.

    Not so sure about that, most carbon wheels are stronger and lighter, dare I say it, cheaper if you go light bicycle route

    njee20
    Free Member

    I’d echo that. For SLR money you could get DT180s on LB rims.

    mashiehood
    Free Member

    My scalpel 29er 100mm front and rear is 21.5lb. It’s 1×10 with XTR hollowgram cranks and xx1 ring. It’s possible I could get it to 22lb with a reverb but I’m not gnar enough to need a dropper.

    curiousyellow
    Free Member

    Buy the 15″ version of your frame that’ll save weight

    Best weight saving tip ever!

    My plan to save weight is to get fit enough over the summer to race my SS in the Autumn. Light bike, less to go wrong, and super bonus – no wrecked expensive drivetrain parts!

    Oh, and what is up with the super steep seat angle on that S-Works Epic in the link?

    cloudnine
    Free Member

    That rigid light weight zooom may just be a little too much for wolfies fragile back..
    How’s the back pain? Has core strengthening helped?

    molgrips
    Free Member

    My XC race bike is 21.5 lbs but it’s an 07 Kona Heihei (26er) with Pace 80mm forks and some carefully sources weenie parts like Dura Ace bar end shifters adapted to MTB thumbshifters. That saves a lot of weight and money too. It can be ridden flat out through typical trail centre or race course rough stuff, but if it gets really rocky you have to take it easy. Due to the lack of travel and flexy wheels more than anything else. Not worried about it breaking, but that’s cos I am good with kit despite being 89kg.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Best weight saving tip ever!

    It’s not really actually – bikes of a different size are generally only 0.25-0.5lbs variance IME. I’ve seen identical bikes with bigger variation than different sizes. Red herring.

    sync
    Free Member

    A mate always used to say that once you reach that 23-24lbs mark on a full susser and 20-21 on an ht, any extra weight saving won’t make up for the lack of ability or rider strength / fitness it is trying to compensate for.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    There’s no making up for ability or strength. A light bike is nice, a fast rider is fast – the two things are independent. Fast rider on a slow bike will be fast, but not as fast as on a fast bike.

    It all depends on what you want to achieve when you ride.

    Euro
    Free Member

    I’ve weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales – big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can’t even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i’d ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?

    mashiehood
    Free Member

    I’ve weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales – big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can’t even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i’d ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?

    eh!

    Euro
    Free Member

    Let me rephrase that then 😆

    I couldn’t care less what my bikes weigh, but if i was as serious as some about bike weight, i’d only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?

    wolfenstein
    Free Member

    I think once my LB wheelset arrives, I could cut half a kilo by then. I already have small frame in carbon which is a + . I’m 70k-72kg all riding gear.. I think i will be happy with 11-11.5kg by the end of this build.

    @cloudnine. My Back still knackered mate 🙁 physio starts next monday finally ..

    mashiehood
    Free Member

    i’d only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?

    No! makes no sense at all! 😯

    bigrich
    Full Member

    you take one of these sparky

    and you do this to it

    and then you take a good long look at yourself, and wonder if that is why you are slower than your mates.

Viewing 32 posts - 41 through 72 (of 72 total)

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