Any hints or tips on how long a road stem should be? When I’m in the drops, my knees come up inside my elbows. Is this normal on a road bike or might I need a slightly longer stem with the knees staying behind the elbow?

The bike is mostly used for “energetic” commuting.

Cheers.

sounds quite short to me but then I’m looking for a shorter stem myself

that sounds short but if it’s that bad it may well be that frame itself is too short unless you’re permanently on the drops and quite far forward on the saddle.

pic of.you on the bike would help

am currently using a Deda 100 zero and it is nice

comes in 90mm

was advised that when your riding you should be able to look directly onto the front hub

The big question is are you comfortable? I spent years trying to replicate the flat back position of ‘pros’ before finally getting a bike fitting and for the frame I was riding (58cm S-works Tarmac) ended up with a 100mm Thomson, 5 degree rise and 30mm of spacers.

Have a look at this to get an idea

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

Spacers? Are you crazy? Surely the look of the bike is far more important than actually having it fit you.

I am currently using an Orbea Cat 3 100mm and it is also nice. Doesn’t really answer your question though.

I run a 120mm Zipp Stem..

Seems spotty dog to me..

OP you are 6′ like me? Convention would put you on a 58 with a 13cm stem, I used to ride that but now like a 56/11.

It’s whatever feels comfortable.

What I’ve got feels okay. I’m just wondering if longer might feel better. Inspired by my knee just contacting my elbow during a hard effort in the drops. I’ve had a bike fit bit since then, I’ve changed frame and become stronger/faster and possibly more supple.

As a rough idea, I’m 5’10” 54 cm tripster with layback post and 90 mm stem. Yes there is a big stack of spacers and they’re staying. The rack and guards spoil the lines more than spacers.

During the bike fit, torsolarm angle was about 85. So mid range.

Onza

What did the bikefit say about your torso length?

I had one done out of curiosity and it confirmed what I already knew; I have a slightly short torso for my 5’10 height.

One of my road bikes is a 54cm TT and I currently have a 10cm stem on it. My (new) winter bike is a 56cm TT and I’ve put a 9cm stem on that.

TBH I don’t spend a lot of time on the drops so don’t really notice any knee – elbow interfacing. If I want to ride as fast as poss, I have a time trial bike for such things.

I’m the other way around. I’m short legged and long bodied. I often ride a bike that’s too large so I can get a good reach. I’m trying to train myself to make more use of the drops. Not sure to what end though.

I’ve just been looking through the old bike fit report and this bike seems a smidge longer than the old one. Just wondered if that knee/elbow thing was just me or fairly common.

Onzadog, where are you based?
If around Hampshire, I have loads of stems if you want to try different lengths.
I’m not trying to flog anything – sometimes you just need to try a few.

You could just try shallow bars, that’ll raise your torso in the drops.
Even a slight hint of upward rise at the end of the drops can lift you a bit. I do that, but mainly so I fall into the drops.

Bike fits are weird, for a lot of people I know they’re only as good as a general set up guide. Then again you could throw a bike together and it might be bob on, it’s not rocket science. Nothing beats a good dynamic test, doesn’t your body change in size by about an inch over the day or during excersise?
I.e I was advised a larger frame with short 90mm stem and it was dreadful. a smaller frame with 120mm stem is far more effective for me (based on crits and hill climbing)

my knees come up inside my elbows. bike fit is spot on.

had it fitted and the chap said either drop 10mm off the stem or 20 and drop it 10mm too. did the later and it feels great.

obviously the headtube slopes towards you so the higher the stem the longer it needs to be.

TBH I wouldn’t sweat any small subtle differences in frame dimensions though an 11cm stem may be worth a punt?

An inline seat post may also move you forward (and down???) a splash enough to change your position relative to the bars.

planet x have got some ritchey stems cheap as chips at the moment – 7.99 or something. I just got a 120mm long one to play with a longer reach…

good for playing with sizing. subtle differences on a road bike make a big difference IMO.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/zCABl.jpg[/img]

Thats my short, steep stem. I need a 58cm frame for my legs but a bike fit recommended that for a correct position. Bike fit done at Race Scene, Barnsley, highly recommened.

Before anyone comments on the garage doors, yes they need replacing and that weed need to come out.

Spacers? Are you crazy? Surely the look of the bike is far more important than actually having it fit you.

Damn right.

110mm at the moment, trying to get hold of a 120mm to try.

RM I have a 120 but OS you can have cheap or borrow to see. It has only ever been slammed as i know the rules – my mail in profile if interested It is probably a cannondale one
OP loads ridding on this ignore most of it are you comfortable if not alter the set up

Lot of spacers, short stem upside down and a bent seatpost?

Thanks a lot JY, but I’ve been trying to by one off here from someone else, just that he’s been taking weeks between emails. I swear some people on here aren’t actually interested in making money. I’ll wait to see if he’s ever going to do anything first. Cheers though 🙂

Not sure if this will help any but for a ‘traditional’ road bike…i.e. a horizontal top tubed bike: stem should be about the same length as the head tube which should also be about the same length as the amount of exposed seat pin you have. Clear as mud? Thought so.

Mister P – Member
Lot of spacers, short stem upside down and a bent seatpost?

My thoughts exactly… Looks a bit 😐

Lot of spacers, short stem upside down and a bent seatpost?

Speak to Specialized about creating a 58cm frame with a 585mm top top and 160mm head tube, it was like riding Graeme Obrees super man bike.

I acquired the frame through an insurance claim where I got shafted by them pretty much dictating what I could have, at the time a £1700 top end carbon frame seemed like a deal but I didn’t think about the fit; it replaced a Principia that fitted me like a glove.

Next frame will be a handbuilt stainless steel jobby by Ricky Feather in York (permission form my wife allowing), HE DA MAN!

http://feathercycles.blogspot.com/

Looks a bit built for comfort not for speed.

It all all about the comfort; let’s be honest, the Tour riders have great core strength, flexibilty and its all about winning, comfort is very low on the list, just like F1 drivers. We on the other hand are either middle aged or rapidily approaching it and should buy bikes that fit us not 23 years old athletes.

Why not do the obvious thing and get a roubaix..?

Thanks for all the comments folks. I got the wife to take some pics tonight with me riding up and down the road on the hoods, on the drops and holding the lumps of the hoods trying to simulate a longer bike.

To be honest, the hoods look little close, the drops look cramped. The lumps of the hoods looked a good bit better. Think I might swap the 90 stem out for a 110.

Like I say the insurance company shafted me. I’m 6’2″, reasonably normal proportions and when I got a professional bike fit they said I need a bike with a 565mm top tube and 200mm head tube, the Roubaix has the same length top tube as the Tarmac (585mm) so I’d only loose the spacers not the short stem.
The point I’m making is be comfortable on your bike and don’t worry if your stem’s long or short, +/- rise, I’ll happily tear the legs off carbon wheeled, 130mm stem guys at our club run despite my upright position.

Hate to quote a man I hate but it’s not about the bike.

Ben, what have you got against Jedi? 😆