Having driven down the south side of Loch Maree for, like, ever, I'd always wanted to traverse the north side to see what's there and see the views from the other direction. So, after meeting up with 13thfloormonk for part of his Highland odyssey (see here), decided it was time to get off the posterior & get it done. The longest day, or as close a weekend as possible, seemed a reasonable time.

It was much cooler than dahn sahf had been all week, & pretty windy upon setting off at Incheril, 10.30am, on the eastern tip of the loch. The popular path to Slioch starts here too, so it's fairly well defined for the first few miles;

Didn't stop me wandering off it, 'mind…

The path splits just over a small gorge bridge-crossing, at NH 013 657, right beside a gorgeous waterfall flowing into a deep pool, surrounded by scots pines… Pure Tolkein

Steady, ladies…

So far, the path was reasonably good, well walked with a few wee carry-ups. After the waterfall it got very steep, the first hike of the day, which served as an introduction to a frustrating few miles where the path was much less travelled & many hazards, cheifly scree boulders, were hidden by long grass and heather. Bracken was also doing its best to hide the trail; another few weeks & the trail will be completely overshadowed

Coming towards Letterewe estate, the path started to improve in parts, maybe due to more use & occasional maintenance

There were a few minor gorges to be crossed, the first wasn't very encouraging

Taking stock at Letterewe, + consuming a roll, progress wasn't looking good. 20km in 4 hours… some sorta record. It was, however, past the point of no return; the only choice left was how to get to the track on the south side of Fionn Loch. Fortunately, a fairly new section of trail had been laid up the hill from Letterewe, probably for Argo-cats. I was leaving the decision on the route over the tops until I reached the fork between them, but was now climbing rapidly. The path up was in no-bad nick, steep but 50% winch-able.

Reaching the fork, around NG 952 725, you can see part of both routes; Strathan Buidhe (yellow valley?) to the west looking more inviting (not as steep, or rocky) and Bealach Mheinnidh (the middle pass) to the north, looking like far harder work. The bealach was the route I'd planned, & I was feeling more encouraged, so turned north. The track wasn't bad, mixture of loose stone and dry peat sections, a few steep carries but a fair amount was rideable.

It levels out a bit as you near the top, and my excitement started to rise as I felt that strengthening of the wind you get when approaching any high pass, the good thing here is the view down to Fionn Loch is hidden right until you reach it.

And when the view did appear… OMG!

The descent down was pretty rocky / stony, do-able, but slowly for me. Mainly very dry layers of loose, small stones on top of larger stones, so it was too easy to start sliding. Was now even more glad of using the Pitch instead of my HT…

Now we were on much better trails, also recently traversed by 13thfloormonk, who'd advised their condition as 'good', and he was not wrong.

However, not being content with a good thing, I'd planned to pick up another path that splits off the main one at NG 927 773, just because I'd already done the remainder of the Fionn Loch path. A spoiler for you – it's CR*P! If you have the choice, stay on the good path… here's the worse one –

Anyway, finally reached Poolewe around 4.30pm, 2 hours or so later than anticipated.I was heading for the Tollie path at the west end of Loch Maree anyway, but rather than biking from there home, gave the S.O. a ring to pick me up at the Slattadale car park. Now, this was the second time I've had a go at this path, & while the climb on the Poolewe side wasn't bad (just very dry & loose), the descent is horrible, a boulder-strewn tooth-jarring challenge to stay vertical. This is part of Kenny Wilsons route 42, where it's described as 'fabulous singletrack' – I reckon it's eroded hugely since he recorded it.

Granted, it looks fine here, but lower down it hasn't changed from this –

I've rarely been so thankful to get back to a car. Only 48 km all-in, at an average of 7.8km/hr…. Knocked 20km off the end too. Worth doing, but I can't see me doing it again (except the Fionn Loch paths). Last tip – remember that even though it's cold, mid June sun is still strong…

nice pics

Nice pics – marvellous area

Great stuff. And cooked legs!

its great that you can now cycle past Letterewe House: Not all that long ago it was owned by Colonel Whitbread who so hated anybody on his estate that even the Ordnance Survey weren't allowed in and consequently the 1" maps back then were complete fabrications.
the more recent Dutch owner was more chilled and used to invite folk in to afternoon tea if they rang the the doorbell. The story goes that the German equivelent of the Rough Guide to Scotland had going up the east side of Loch Maree as a "must do" and tea at Letterewe was part of the itinary. Apparently his family had been in a german KZ camp during the war so he wasnae very keen on Germans.

good work rob, has all the makings of a classic!

Some of those trails look brilliant, like the looks of number 5 particularly…

Fantastic, I'm sold. One for August 😀

Some of those trails look brilliant

Ta Ian; there were certainly good sections, but getting to them was a struggle, & that was in pretty much bone-dry, & windy (few midge), conditions.

Sammy – be warned, this isn't an easy route, not so much in the geography, but in keeping your spirits up! Much pushing / carrying. Just downloaded the profile, can't quite seem to get the track plan up though…

(photopage)

Nice one Rob. Good pics, well written, evocative report.

Fionn Loch has had a rather mystical hold over me since I first opened Landranger 19 and saw the causeway. Crossing that (for the first and so far only time) is one of my all-time most memorable outdoorsy moments. It's been on my plans to go back by bike and this post has just bumped it up the priority list 🙂

Thanks Colin – this was the first time I'd really seen all of Fionn Loch – it does have 'something' about it, though when I come to the Bealach on the south, it was literally a gasp of wonder..
Just for you, and Ian, another pic (how I wish I'd had the 'good' camera). You can just about pick out the path up from Carnmore.

(photopage)

That's a cracking pic!

Nice writeup and pics – thanks for posting it.

very handy post
(and cracking photos)

after some advice, as I’ll be doing this while bird visits Inverewe gardens. (I’m used to dragging etc)

Incheril, NW, Letterewe, Strathan Buide, Kernsary – which path from there: track N of Loch Kensary or cart track on S side

Cheers

Nice one

Kenny Wilson’s rideable is most people’s ‘anything but bloody’ rideable

Beautiful and a great write up. I missed it 9 months ago so great to catch it 2nd time around 🙂

gusamc – Member
very handy post
(and cracking photos)

after some advice, as I’ll be doing this while bird visits Inverewe gardens. (I’m used to dragging etc)

Incheril, NW, Letterewe, Strathan Buide, Kernsary – which path from there: track N of Loch Kensary or cart track on S side
I used the main (land rover) track for my trip in by bike.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/the-ramblings-of-an-old-man-including-a-wee-ride-report

Nice ride. Will need to add that one to the list. Cheers.

Pity fotopic is screwed,i could have shown you another Loch Maree route with an epic descent down a gulley into Loch Maree.

Gusamc, there’s some nice bits of trail on the north side of Loch Kernsary, but I seem to remember cursing a lot of it when Rob and I rode it, think I would ride it again if I was heading that way though.

track N of Loch Kensary or cart track on S side

I think it’d depend on your mood / enthusiasm by the time you reach it Gus; if you’re up for some trials-y riding, with probability of a fair bit of dabbing / pushing (not doubting your abilities, mind 🙂 ) but also some rewarding tech content, then the north path might be good fun. It’s stop / start nature wasn’t really the way to start a long trip though, as 13thFM mentions above.
If you’re tired, wet, hungry etc., definitely take the south landy track, an easy spin down to Poolewe.
I’m sure you’ll take the necessary cautions, but definitely be prepared on the north Loch-side; the tracks sometimes disappear completely, & the under-growth could be pretty deep later in the year (high possibility of ticks too).
Let us know how you get on.

Hi guys, many thanks to all, deffo seems to be a Scottish Wilderness contingent, done lots of Memory Map research, tinternet and books, but on the ground recommendations always help.

Right, May/June, Plockton for a week (Glen Affric, Torridon, Loch Maree)then work S (Oban, Crinan Canal, Lochranza) to parents in Girvan

Spetember, camping at Grantown-on-Spey

YAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO