Let’s say if we hit £25k I will do a size small as well. Not sure if I can add a ‘stretch goal’ at this late stage, I will try. Basically the top and seat tubes will both be an inch or so shorter with a couple of other little tweaks.
Got the money sitting but decided to stick with another new Pugsley black frame- on the way from the USofA, as the 29+ wheels fitting a fat bike was the deciding factor, already owning a set.
But it`s good the Puffin is coming from the UK 🙂
Folk can say all the marketing, with the geometry stuff but a Pugs works fine on trails with the 4″ set up, and the Krampus 29+ wheels,
I want one steel bike that takes both wheel sets for weekends/ summer hols away in the car – 2 bikes in one for the best of both worlds,ideal for fun in the Highlands – or Scottish Borders for that matter,
Maybe the Puffin will be a fast bike on trails
Maybe any 29+ bike is a fast bike on trails,
The geometry of the Pugs with both wheel sets (4″ and 29+) works fine on err trails :-), fast enough for me anyways, but seriously,
The Puffin still looks to be the nicest option for an inline steel fat bike, and it is British 😉
Said it already, best of luck with this… 🙂
Oh a Reynolds 853 inline fatbike please (that takes 29+ also) and i`m in
letmetalktomark – Member
…Just coming to terms with needing to spend £700 odd on wheels and tyres
I’ve shelved the idea of a Krampus or a Caribou in favour of the Puffin.
You won’t regret it. You may as well start culling your other bikes now. 🙂
A couple of pointers for people coming new to fatbikes.
You don’t have to spend a fortune on wheels. The On-One option is pretty reasonable, and also you can buy fat rims from chopper bike specialists. That way you don’t pay the fat tax.
The critical thing will be getting your hands on a 100mm BB. All of a sudden there’s going to be 50 odd people looking for the same thing, and this is a component that can be hard to find. The cheapest way is to get a 100mm ISIS BB so you can use any old ISIS crankset (and good ones are cheap).
Bear in mind fatbike components come into the country in dribbles and once they’re out we usually have to wait till next year for more.
So don’t miss winter, get your bits now, and don’t forget the tyres. 🙂
So, for the sake of argument, lets say I’d been in on this and had just received the ‘choose your size’ email.
I’m not sure which one to go for.
Looking at the numbers (particularly the top tube/reach) on the kickstarter page and comparing with the ones on a Titus Fireline and Liteville 301 (both of which I have a medium of and like how they ride) it looks like the medium is similar.
But I’m way over the height that Sam’s suggesting for the Medium and in the upper half of the large puffin one.
Rather than look at the size, check to see if the toptube length is similar to what you’re riding. Then look at standover.
I deliberately went down a size on my Pugsley to get a little bit more knacker room. You can ride quite soft surfaces on a fatbike, but when you come to a stop and put your feet down they sink right in – at which point you appreciate the extra clearance. 🙂 So if you’re intending to ride on snow or bog, that’s worth considering.
Fatbike riding is a bit different from normal mtb stuff – unless of course you’re planning sticking to the same sort of riding you’re currently doing.
Anyone else clock that the Puffin fork is set up for front hub spaced 135mm hubs (ie Jones/Paul WHUB) and not rear spaced (ie pretty much every other fat bike front hub, incl Hope Fatsno)?
But not with the Singular forks – unless you do some spacing.
The production forks will use a front standard disc mount, allowing any 135mm ISO disc hub to be used. Hubs built on a rear hub disc standard (eg. Hope, Surly, or any 135mm rear hub) will need to have the brake caliper/adapter spaced across by 4mm – i.e. a couple of washers. This allows maximum flexibility for use of any type of hub.
Someone with access to a decent machine shop could make up some nice adapters…..
scotroutes – Member
But not with the Singular forks – unless you do some spacing.
The production forks will use a front standard disc mount, allowing any 135mm ISO disc hub to be used. Hubs built on a rear hub disc standard (eg. Hope, Surly, or any 135mm rear hub) will need to have the brake caliper/adapter spaced across by 4mm – i.e. a couple of washers. This allows maximum flexibility for use of any type of hub.
Someone with access to a decent machine shop could make up some nice adapters…..
Trying to get my head round this too! So I get a normal adaptor and use some washers to push the calliper inboard by 4mm? Is it as simple as that?