Assume the forks aren’t pressurised yet as they look awfully short for 130mm travel…

I’d just had the topcap off to see how many volume spacers were inside.

Ref the dent – If it were me, I’d have a go at tapping it out a little with some wood on the outside and something suitable shaped on the inside (a nice big socket?) to get it something like – then I’d just press the headset in.Its highly unlikely to deform the headset cup and make the bearing bind – the frame will be softer.

Annoying, and if it was something boutique and I’d paid a lot, I’d be sending it back, but pragmatism means you could just get on with things and get riding it.

Ref the dent – agree with ^^ Or maybe a g cramp with a flat bit of wood on the outside and socket on the inside. As per the above it just needs to be pulled out enough the press the cup in which will centre everything up.

I’d just had the topcap off to see how many volume spacers were inside.

how many were there? (save me a job)

Two black volume spacers!

oh, was expecting none so that’s not bad. Thanks.

Sorry, stupid question perhaps. But what’s the significance of the volume spacers? What’re they for?

tuning the spring rate of your forks. No spacers you get a more linear rate so you use more travel more of the time, with more spacers you can run them softer and they still wont bottom out. Depends how you ride and what you like. It’s worthwhile spending a few hours sessioning a section and messing with your settings, pressure, spacers* to get them setup as you like them. Lots of videos/articles around on how to do it.

*take a pump and the right spanner/tool and its easy enough to do on the trail.

The REBAS we have all bought use a casette lockring splined tool for the topcap – which I have not seen before and is really neat. Much nicer than the usual very thin flange 6 side hex (32mm on my Fox 36’s).

finally unwrapped mine, couple of very minor paint chips on the downtube, meh, paintjob not as lush as it looked in the pics, again meh, but no dents, yay, seatstays look a little narrow (on my v2 scandal masses of seatstay room but chainstays were narrower), <shrugs> wasnt planning on plus tyres anyway, cable routing, oh. How are people getting on with setting up? Can you get a brake/reverb hose through with end fittings? Seriously doubt I’ll get a brake line with banjo through there, but will a hose with an olive get thru?

The REBAS we have all bought use a casette lockring splined tool for the topcap

yeah and “torque” dropouts same as my 2018 pikes, my latest lockring tool has a centering pin tho so cant use that, fortunately I have an old one without, just bear in mind if you need to order one.

eg this one is no good

@donk

Cable routing was very easy as the grommets all come out.

Hoses threaded from the caliper through the frame was as easy as any frame I’ve done. Just required a quick bleed. They don’t rattle either. Just don’t drop the tiny screw inside the frame!

cheers damascus, was going to ask if you had to remove the olive but of course there’s also the compression nut and plastic shroud, those are all going to have to be removed to thread through frame huh?
bloody internal routing my arse! bring back C-clip studs, easiest for serial part swappers like me

noted about the little bolts 🙂

Tyre clearance –

Thats a Minion 2.3 on a 25mm internal rim. 7mm clearance each side – I wouldnt want less than 5mm.

Thus – I think ‘clearance for 2.6 tyres’ is stretching the truth a little.

Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ? I’m looking at building a fast’ish xc type job. If so what you get ?

Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ? I’m looking at building a fast’ish xc type job. If so what you get ?

Planet X do their own Selcof carbon forks

They advertise it as a bundle with the Scandal and Whippet.

I bought the bundle with the fork – fork is nicely light, feels well made

… and by the time I’d received the parcel I’d already decided I was putting a sus fork on it. What a **** nob !

I bought the bundle with the fork – fork is nicely light, feels well made

Oh ? Much you looking at for the fork ? £200 bit spendy as I likely fit it and hate the ride and fit a sus fork 🤣

Was looking at eBay ones around £100

you serious +1 ?
dunno – 120 posted ?

I’ll message you @scareydypants

Can’t access your message ?

Mail me

may may shaft at aol dot com 👍🏻

@snotrag

Thus – I think ‘clearance for 2.6 tyres’ is stretching the truth a little.

I’m running nobby nics 2. 6 on 29er flow ex mk3 rims. They actually come up at 2.52. There’s plenty of space and loads left for mud.

@plus one

Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ?

I’m running a genesis tarn carbon boost fork. Rides well. Not sure how it compares to the Selcof fork.

Ref the brake hose question. No, the olive won’t fit.

Anyone ridden their new scandal yet?

My build is going slowly and expensively…and I’m having doubts I should’ve got the Big Dog.

Please can someone give me the inspiration to get it finished?

Not even started building mine yet, just waiting on wheels and tyres arriving then gonna get stuck in.

It’ll be my first solo build, so gonna take it slow and steady. Bit worried about the internal routing, never dealt with that before!

Mines been built for a while. I love it. Nobby nic 2.6 29er tyres made a massive difference to the trails I ride. Keep going and post some pictures when it’s built.

It’ll be my first solo build, so gonna take it slow and steady. Bit worried about the internal routing, never dealt with that before!

It’s quite an easy one to do, poke it through at the headtube end and poke it out with something pointy at the other, I was quite surprised how easy it was.

Just watch the little screws that hold the plates in whilst you try and screw them back in, you’d think that once the hose is in place the remaining hole would be too small to drop the screw through into the frame, it’s not…………

Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?

Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?

Its a £150 frame. Just build it and ride it.

Cheers for the responses.

It’s nice to see that even after having the bike for a while you still like it, damascus.

Finally got my financial donor bike sold so we’re golden in filling in the missing parts, fortunately it’s only a drivetrain and brakes/brake callipers if I use my M665 levers…unfortunately though I can’t have all the shipments sent to work so the other half sees how many parts are needed for a “cheap build”

I’m waiting on a seatpost and then I can build mine, nearly all other parts are from a donor bike or parts stock that I didn’t really know I had…

Mine will be an XC orientated build, 2.4″ (max) tyres, 120mm fork, Thomson post (don’t trust carbon on an mtb at nearly 15st), just need to decide on bars, I’ve got a few alloy sets in stock to try, so once I’ve decided on the rise and width I’ll try and get some lighter ones, though again favouring alloy.

Mines going well, not far off finished. I think all ym remaining requirements are in the post!

Ref the cable routing and the inaccesbile bolt –

Unbolt the black guides top and bottom. Thread an old inner cable through the hole that covers the bolt access.

Re-attach the black guides. The inner cable is flexible enough that you can get access to tighten the tiny bolts up.

Now push your new hose or outer cable up the old inner cable. Et voila.

Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?

given I’m going to smack the dent in my headtube out with a hammer then hammer in the headset cups I think you’re overdoing it

@snotrag – how do you push a hose up an inner cable ?

(I just shoved mine up from the bottom and “caught” them with a thin allen key – took a few goes but worked fine)

Just push it up? The inner won’t damage the hose. Obviously not with a brake lever or brake caliper still attached to it 🤔.

If anyone bought a frame bundle and doesn’t want the carbon fork I’ll take it off your hands.

Just push it up?

is the inner cable really rigid enough to let the outer slide up it – I’d have thought it’d just flex and lose all shape
(I’m missing something aren’t I ?)

I didn’t have any issues tightening up the cable entry covers with the cables in situ.

My build is progressing, just waiting for a rear mech. Zee brake levers from a recent PSA with older XT callipers swapped in when I put the Zees on a bigger bike. An ancient pair of LX hollow tech triple cranks with a 32 ring – clearance seems fine. 40mm stem with some RSP bars from an old PSA and Fox 34 Performance forks from a PSA a couple of years ago. 27.5 wheels with 2.8 tyres. 11sp drivetrain – new XT shifter with I-spec B fitting (fits the Zees) £17 from Wiggle. Cassette and chain from spares box. Should be done by the weekend. Had a big parts clearout on a £1 listing deal on EBay which has more than paid for everything.

I didn’t have any issues tightening up the cable entry covers with the cables in situ.

Yup, its not the getting to them that was the problem, it was my butterfingers dropping them through the slightly larger than the hose holes into the frame then having to take it somewhere clean and shake it till it fell out the headtube that was the problem!

Yup, its not the getting to them that was the problem, it was my butterfingers dropping them through the slightly larger than the hose holes into the frame then having to take it somewhere clean and shake it till it fell out the headtube that was the problem!

Ah, fair comment – I was consciously living dangerously putting the screws in at dusk in an unlit shed with a messy floor – and was feeling smug as I got away with it!

Quick question about the internal routing for the rear brake.

Is there I was I can fit without having to bleed the brake?

Or will I need to remove the the lever, drain the fluid, remove the olive and insert in order to get the hose through the frame?