SLX all mountain double or new chainring & bash guard on my current SLX triple?

Have realised I spend 90% of the time in my middle chainring, the rest on the granny, and the large just comes along for the ride and to occasionally ping off rocks and dig into logs. Thinking I could replace the 32 middle on my current SLX with a 36, and the large ring with a bash guard, and hey presto I have an SLX all mountain compact! Anything wrong with this – like does the ‘real’ compact double have a different chainline, or the ‘compact’ 36T won’t fit on the conventional SLX crank arms?
And what about that compact double specific front changer – worth it, or should I just dial in the travel on my current triple SLX front?
By the way, it’s nearly the same price to buy a new 36T and bash guard as it is to buy a whole new SLX compact chainset!!
Thoughts anyone…

They share the same chainline. The slx double has steel inserts for the pedal thread (stronger). If you never use the outer ring anyway then why change to a 36t? If you spend all your time in the middle and are happy with the gearing, then why bother switching. Something light like a gumut bash is about £35.

perthmtb,

The 36/bash SLX has different cranks with steel pedal inserts, but uses the same chainline. Just get a cheapo 36T steel 104BDC 4-bolt Deore ring to replace your 32T. Remove the large ring, insert packing washers on bolts and ride. Get a bashguard if you like, but the fact that you have not reported trashing the large ring suggests you do not need it.

PaulD.

Either way will be fine.

I haven’t been particularly impressed with the bashguards on those SLX doubles though. The metal sleeves that the bolts go through came loose and the bash fell off.

If it’s almost the same price to buy a new double and bash as buying a new 36t ring and bashguard then go for the new crankset as you get the stronger cranks plus a brand new BB.

You definitely do not need a new front mech. I’m quite happily running my XT from the previous triple ring I had with no probs at all

If your middle ring isn’t worn then just get a 2nd hand or special offer bashguard. £15 is all it should cost. And the double front mech has a shorter cage, but it’s no big deal to just use the triple and dial in the top adjuster screw.

Are you looking for an excuse to spend lots of money or something?

Thats great advice guys, thanks. Especially like the suggestion of getting a steel deore 36T instead of the aluminium SLX 36T for twice the price and half the lifespan!Fair point about the bashguard, but although I haven’t trashed the big ring yet, that’s cos I’m avoiding the big stuff precisely because I don’t want to bottom out. I’m thinking with a bash guard it’d give me more confidence to take on a few more logs and rock gardens!

I’ve read elsewhere that by going to a double I should shorten the chain, and even go for a meduim rear mech instead of the long cage. Now if I have to get a new rear mech as well, its getting way too expensive! Is that really necessary?

Hi Rickos – actually was hoping to avoid spending too much, and the suggestions here of deore chainring, cheapo bash ring, and no need to change FD are spot on!

I’m very glad I switched to double+bash. Went to a 36t deore steel middle ring. Needed longer bolts to hold the bashring (it’s thicker than a big ring). Shortened the chain a bit, kept the same rear mech. Only changed the front mech when I changed bike and needed a different pull (and then went to a double specific mech). Note that you’ll need to take the chainset off to remove the 32t and the pedal off to get the bashring on.

I grazed my ankle 6 months ago yet the scar is still clearly visible, and this graze was caused by the plastic bashring. I hate to think what a mess my leg would have been in if I’d still had the big chainring there, especially as it’s right over a large vein. Well worth the minor weight penalty!

Now if I have to get a new rear mech as well, its getting way too expensive! Is that really necessary?

No, but maybe take a few links out of the chain once you’ve tried riding it for a bit.

Hi again,

Chief is right about the bashguard protecting his leg from a shark attack, especially if in the granny at the time of impact! I saw a bad gash up a calf a few years ago when a guy went over the bars on a small jump.
The front mech advice to just reign in the outer-limit screw adjuster is correct, leaving the 32T in place and correctly adjusted. You would need to raise the mech up the seat post if you fit a 36T. As for chain length, I would cut it to large+large + 4 rivets with the 32T (instead of 2 rivets) to keep a 36T option.

PaulD

Ok, just been checking out Deore 36T chainwheels on CRC, and there’s three labelled deore – M510, M532, M590! As far as I can see they are all steel, PCD 104mm, mega 9 compatible, and price is pretty similar too. So which one should I order to go on my SLX M660 – will they all fit?

Hi yet again,

I would get the M510.

It is cheapest steel 36T in stock, fits all Shimano 104BCD chainsets (the others fit HTII only, unless you grind off the excess around the holes) and third-party sets such as Truvativ, RaceFace, etc.

PaulD.

My lbs sourced a truvativ bach guard for about £8, and a 36T deore chainring for about £15. Combined with a medium cage rear mech and shorter chain the chain never skips off anymore. I find I drop the chain all the time with a triple.

So, the story so far…

M510 36T deore chainring form CRC 12 squids; cheapo bash ring 8-15 squids; don’t need to change the front or read mech, just take a few links out of the chain..

All going so well, then wham! Longer chainring bolts needed for bash guard – that’ll be 15 squids please! Why is it the small things cost so much?

Any cheaper options than the E-13 15mm bolts?

Any cheaper options than the E-13 15mm bolts?

e13 themselves pointed me at these (when I asked what to use with a XT crankset and e13 Turbocharger bash);
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46947

I have a feeling 15mm is actually too long anyway but could easily be wrong.

Nice one timmys – and stainless too! Thanks.

It’s not always longer bolts you need, but the other bits (what are they called?) to have thread running further along the inside.

bbg bashguard[/url]

these are cheap and light. they ship pretty quick too.

slx bash is nice but heavy

I’m still using a Hone triple; setup 22/36/bash with the SLX double mech, to be honest you’re just as well to set the limit screw on a triple mech and maybe try without the bash first as a “suck it and see” trial, you can always add a bash later if you want, you probably won’t need the steel pedal inserts found on the “Pukka” SLX double either, you’d have found out by now if you were going to bollox a crank thread…

Go the cheapes route, you can always go back if you want…

Swapped to the stronger SLX double and bash and very impressed.

Kept with the triple specific SLX front mech – just screw in fully the H screw so can’t shift onto the bash – no other adjustment was required. If anything the shifting quality has some how improved.

Charlie the Bike-Monger does chainring bolts in various lengths as well, for less than the mad prices elsewhere.

+1 for Charlie the Bikemonger for chainring bolts. That’s where I got mine from when I did the same as you’re planning.

Change to a medium cage rear mech when/if your existing one dies & don’t bother with a double-specific front; just adjust the limit screws on the triple.

As tomthunb suggested, look for the less ‘macho’ bashguards out there, unless you’re genuinely smacking your chainset off rocks routinely then they’ll be fine, won’t need long bolts etc.

Truvativ did one, Blackspire do one too as well as BBG. Maybe a nose round eBay might pick one up cheapo.