Home › Forums › Bike Forum › Second set of road wheels for gravel bike – aluminium vs carbon
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Second set of road wheels for gravel bike – aluminium vs carbon
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badstoobFree Member
…..I know….another ‘what wheel’ thread but here goes. I’m presently running a set of 481db rim/Hope Pro4 (32/32) wheels with Schwalbe G-one all-round tyres which have been excellent for my use, which is 80% road/20% light trail/gravel track use. I’ve got some £ from overtime burning a hole in my pocket and I’m looking at getting a second 700c wheelset to run with road tyres (probably GP5000 tubeless unless someone can suggest another tyre option) as a lighter option.
Are there any aluminium wheelsets, either off-the-peg or a build that would get down to the weight of a carbon wheelset? As I have Pro4 hubs, would I be best to stick with these for my 2nd wheels to make changing the wheel easier?
MowgliFree MemberI don’t think carbon will necessarily beat alloy on weight unless you’re spending an awful lot. They just look cool and are a lot stiffer. There were some Prime alloy wheels on CRC recently, ~£350 and about 1400g. Attacquer?
cookeaaFull MemberThe main reason to go for a carbon rim on a road wheel is to achieve a deeper aero section rim profile for about the equivalent weight of a shallower section (less aero) alloy rim.
I suppose the obvious question has to be what’s the budget OP?
milfordvetFree MemberAlloy rims that will compete on weight (about 350g – crests etc) will likely be less stiff than carbon but will work efficiently especially on hills at lower road lower speeds. At higher road speeds it actually pays to have a heavier but much deeper ‘aero’ rim depending on the wind conditions you might ride in. If your after something fancy to treat yourself, I’d get a set of Zipps or Boras for summer dry conditions and keep the 32h pro4’s with the better sealing for gravel, winter and potholes. My Kuota TT bike with a solid disc rear and deep Corima front is of an order faster than my Roubaix with Pro4/ 20Five but the Spesh it’s alot more comfortable (stack height) for my back now so I ride that mainly. The Kuota gets to and holds speed, you can feel it…mostly the deep aero wheels. I think the 404’s were/ are regarded as the sweet spot for general use. The 202’s are lighter and are what gets used in the mountains on The Tour I think. Deeper get blown around more, but I’ve never really had an issue with that, maybe as I’m from an MTB background.
badstoobFree MemberThanks for the suggestions so far. I ride a lot near the coast and do encounter windy conditions a fair bit. My present rims are 25mm and do get the odd buffering when I get battered by a side-on wind.
As for budget, I could stretch up to £700-1000 for the right wheelset.
butcherFull MemberAt higher road speeds it actually pays to have a heavier but much deeper ‘aero’ rim depending on the wind conditions you might ride in.
This would normally be the case on a road bike, the consensus being that aerodynamics trump weight in all but the most extreme scenarios.
However, my understanding is that the tyre is crucial to the aerodynamic performance of the wheel, and even on a road bike a badly fitting tyre can void any gains. It would be interesting to seen an expert opinion on the performance of aero wheels and cx/gravel tyres, because the way I understand it, it just wouldn’t work.
Edit: Ignore me, I’ve just read the post properly.
Yes, aero would be the way to go, especially in flatter areas.
dovebikerFull MemberI’m in the same position, I’ve just got a carbon Diverge and wanted a pair of road wheels – the stock alloy wheels will be fitted with some 45mm ‘gravel’ tyres. The big difference with carbon wheels is stiffness, not just weight.
I consider 1500g/pr to be the optimum weight for a good pair of wheels – some of the Prime carbon ones are 1700-1800g which is pretty porky – OK if it’s flat, less so when it’s rolling.
I’ve gone for a pair of Roval C38s because I can get a good deal, the wider rim suits a wider tyre and the hubs are DT Swiss. I expect there will be some deals on Mavic wheels about seeing as they’ve gone into receivership – but when they run out of spares, they won’t be a good investment.
convertFull MemberThis whole carbon deep section carbon road wheels bobbins that is trotted out….
Speaking as an ex Cat 2 roadie, TTer and long distance triathlon type with a cupboard full of zipps deep sections, discs and trispokes I appreciate the value of deep section (and disc wheels) but there is a time and a place. Never rode them in training or commuting. If you are riding on your own or with a few friends using a set of wheels that will get you from point a to point b a handful of seconds faster has no appreciable difference to your experience. It is no more fun and it has no more training benefit. Its drinking down the advertisers kool aid and if I’m honest making you look like more of a noob. Noobs think it looks cool, but only noobs. Deep sections on a gravel bike doing road duties is the epitome of a noob/ advertising sucker.
I think a second pair of wheels makes a lot of sense on a gravel bike. As/when I actually own a gravel bike (as opposed to an old skool ti cross bike that pretty much does the same thing) it’ll have a pair of 27.5 wheels with bigger tyres and a 700c pair with 28-30mm road tyres.
If you don’t fancy building your own you could do worse than visiting Malcom Borgs website (https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/) and see what you fancy custom made. From a longevity perspective something with standard spokes and rims/hubs that can be replaced gets you a triggers broom of a par of wheels. And if aesthetics and niche matter to you, something a little less off the shelf and unusual.
convertFull MemberThe big difference with carbon wheels is stiffness
You are saying that like it is undoubtedly a good thing which it isn’t. One of the worst things about carbon deep section rims from a ride perspective is the radial stiffness and how detached that makes you from the road. When pros first started using them that was their biggest complaint – with all the feedback from their ultra pliable ultra expensive tubs dulled by the wheels reducing their confidence and ‘at oneness’ with the bike. Lateral stiffness is far more effected by the spoke count and cross pattern than the rim.
badstoobFree MemberI’ve had a look and for my budget, I can get – 30mm deep Venn carbon rims with DCR hubs (who makes the hubs and are they any good?). A slightly cheaper option is Spokesman wheels 50mm deep carbon rims with Novatech hubs but can upgrade to Hope RS4 for around the same price as the DCR option. For slightly more money (£50), I can get a Hunt 40/50mm deep carbon option. Hunt wheels seem to divide opinion, owners swear by them but a lot of people reckon they’re just badged plain carbon rims (same as DCR/Spokeman?) with Novatech hubs. They have a decent warranty though. The Hunts are by far the lightest, then the DCR option and the Spokemsan wheels seem to be way heavier but obviously cheaper. I would prefer a deeper rim if I’m going carbon and the next deepest DCR rim is almost double the price for the rim.
BoardinBobFull MemberI’ve got a 650b gravel bike that I recently bought 700c wheels for better on road performance. I went for the Hunt 4 Seasons. They’re not carbon but came in at 1580g for the pair according to my scales which is a fantastic weight for the price. I’ve given them a fair hammering now. I’m a big unit and they’ve been absolutely flawless.
mrb123Free MemberI’ve just taken delivery of a carbon set from Farsports for my winter bike.
30mm deep rims, 28mm wide (21mm internal) from their Kaze disc series. DT Swiss 350 disc hubs, CX-Rays and brass nipples.
Weight is 1450g on my kitchen scales. The rims match up perfectly with 28mm Conti 4 Season.
Price was about £650 including delivery and pre-paid import tax.
To answer the question above – DCR hubs are based on Bitex. They’re pretty decent for the money, arguably the best of the “budget” hubs out there.
dovebikerFull MemberI’ve just gone down this route with my Diverge as the factory-fit wheels are nigh-on 2000g. Got some Roval C38s and running them with 32mm Gravel King slicks @ 40psi – I was out riding with some mates, both on ‘race’ road bikes with carbon wheels and there was no difference in rolling speed on long downhills. I’m also toying with the idea of some 650B wheels that I can run with 2″ knobblies for more serious trail use – whether I go for the Prime Carbon Kansa wheels on Wiggle, or to build something myself with a 30mm rim.
Digger90Free MemberI’ll soon be selling a pretty much new set of 40mm deep Light Bicycle carbon tubeless rims handbuilt onto DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Haven’t advertised them anywhere yet, but looking for £480.
Can send pics. PM me if interested.
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