Home › Forums › Bike Forum › PSA: Ragley Trig gravel bike with GRX. £1099.99.
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PSA: Ragley Trig gravel bike with GRX. £1099.99.
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steelfeelFree Member
Do you still think the hoods are massive mate or was it my pic?
chakapingFull MemberFrom some angles they look massive, but not so much from others.
Really like the ergonomics though and I see what people mean about braking from the hoods being better on GRX brifters.
steelfeelFree MemberAm I right in saying it ships with the stem in the negative position? and if I flip it it will give me a little more height? and if I do how tight to I tighten the stem on a carbon steerer? I got a like hand torque thingie coming in the post tomorrow, also how much force do you tighten pedals on with if you can quantify force in words – I
Im back into biking after some years (sorry for all questions) fond memories of my old steel 1997 kona lavadome are sending me down he steel path , I upgraded it to the 1998 kona pahoehoe it was never the same much preferred the lava dome which 3 times less cost.
I decided to upgrade my last bike 2012 KHS 2000 sl with a new frame a few weeks ago the KHS had been dormant for over 11 years
Kona in the pic not mine but same one other 2 was/are mine
TheGingerOneFull MemberPedals I barely tighten with much force at all so that I can undo them easily at a later date. They don’t come loose due to the thread direction when pedalling.
Stem can be flipped. Obviously you need to sort the tension on the steerer before tightening the stem to the steerer, but most stems are 5nm. Should be written on the stem
frogstompFull Memberwhy my pics still not showing 🙁
The URL you used takes me to a page with several photos. You need to click on the photo you want to post so that it opens its own page and then right click on the photo and select “Copy image link” (or similar – your browser may vary) to get the URL to use.
how much force do you tighten pedals on with
The recommended torque is around 40NM which is loads and can make removal a challenge. I tend to go for ‘snug and then a bit’ and never had any issues. Definitely make sure you grease the threads to aid removal though.
steelfeelFree MemberYeah pedals have arrived today (I decided on the nukeproof horizon CS) there’s some Teflon grease coming from Amazon should be there by the time I get home so snug and a bit it is
frogstompFull MemberMine has just turned up unexpectedly (tracking still says it’s at the depot) and.. it is definitely PURPLE!!
No pictures until transplants and upgrades have been carried out.
steelfeelFree MemberSome advice needed relating to the Trig please guys, I’m 16st been out the biking game for a while tubless wasnt really a thing when I was last into biking, if Im doing about 50/50 trails/road is it worth going tubeless? I 2 minutes ride from Cannock chase/Gentleshaw common so thats where I will be riding. Ive always used higher pressures years ago cuz of being heavy 50-60psi
bikesandboatsFull MemberTubeless is worth it for the lack of punctures alone, I would say its still worth doing if you are running higher pressures.
In other news my Trig showed up unexpectedly this morning after being dispatched yesterday. I’m waiting on the bits I ordered to turn up before I open it.
Have a set of these on the way, might be a bargain if anyone else wants some lighter wheels. https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/650b-gravel-db-sport-carbon-clincher-wheelset/
frogstompFull Membercongrats mate, what you upgrading?
Cheers, not quite sure how much yet.. but I have some lighter kit on my outgoing NS RAG+ and I may be tempted to try AXS as I’ve been impressed with it on the MTB (if the price is right). I should probably have just bought the frame-only option lol!
convertFull MemberDespatched…..time for that conversation….you can’t hud a purple bike! 😃
chestrockwellFull MemberSome advice needed relating to the Trig please guys, I’m 16st been out the biking game for a while tubless wasnt really a thing when I was last into biking, if Im doing about 50/50 trails/road is it worth going tubeless? I 2 minutes ride from Cannock chase/Gentleshaw common so thats where I will be riding. Ive always used higher pressures years ago cuz of being heavy 50-60psi
Always worth going tubeless IMO and the Trig’s wheels and tyres are ready to do so. I’m probably a bit heavier than you and run mine between 30 and 40 psi, maybe more towards 40.
marksnookFree MemberMine showed up unexpectedly today as well! Yep, very much purple! I really like the colour though.
First time on drops, I had a pedal around the block, felt fast. Looking forward to some rides on thisbikesandboatsFull MemberIn case anyone wasn’t aware it comes with tubeless valves and the rims are taped already, just needs some sealant.
1iffoverloadFree Membercool PSA!
if anybody is interested in a L and has a fork that fits or is handy with CF repairs? wiggle are auctioning one on ebay with a fault on the fork
steelfeelFree MemberLove my trig, but think im gonna have to take a little bit off my seat post, anyone else struggle with the supplied chainstay protector I gave up in the end and used a different one 😊
Who’s had there’s?
bikesandboatsFull MemberI think the chainstay protector isn’t big enough, I can get mine on (L frame) but there’s not a lot of velcro holding it there. I’ll try make something else out of heli tape.
convertFull MemberLove my trig, but think im gonna have to take a little bit off my seat post
You went for the bigger of the sizes didn’t you. I’m guessing its a 400mm post – I assume it hits the bottle bosses. Just remember how much you take off and to ignore the minimum post insert marks in the future!
steelfeelFree MemberYeah I went for the medium I’m happy with how it fits but my saddle is just a smidge to high, and you are right it hits the bottle bosses a 350mm post would if been fine.
highlandmanFree MemberJust home from a first shakedown ride on mine; 34 miles, 800m ascent and a really good mix of tracks, woodland and Sidlaw hills singletrack.
I’m glad I changed the stem straight away to 80mm, it’s a better fit already.
First, negatives: I don’t like the shape or the feel of the bars so far and have sore hands, despite going tubeless and running about 28psi. I struggle to get a good position for braking on the drops. However as others have suggested, braking from the hoods is surprisingly good and getting better as the pads bed in too.
I clipped pedals on tree roots and the sides of heathery singletrack ruts three or four times. Even with 170mm cranks, there’s not a huge amount of clearance.
Positives: just about everything else. Acceleration, quick steering and the range of gearing all seems grand, just what I was looking for. Tyres coped adequately with wet peaty singletrack, everything else being fine.
It’s no match for an xc hardtail on twisty, downhill woodland singletrack but that’s hardly surprising. It did however stay the right way up, so I reckon that’s a good result.
Now to give it a thorough going over and either flip the stem or at least move a spacer or two. My bars are way lower than the seat.chakapingFull MemberYeah the chainstay protector is too small, I used a bigger one that I had in stock.
My existing gravel bike has 700c wheels and I miss those on the Ragley so I’m in the process of converting them.
The stock 650b wheels and tyres are too heavy/slow for my taste, but I’ve got some of those cheap Ribble carbon ones on the way to try.
Just need to find some bargain 650b tyres now.
1sparkerfixFull MemberMine turned up yesterday! Not had chance to try it yet. It’s been nicknamed Dairy Milk.
steelfeelFree MemberWhat’s the little orange plastic thing in the box with the reflectors tubeless valves and stuff?
frogstompFull MemberWhat’s the little orange plastic thing in the box with the reflectors tubeless valves and stuff?
The only orangey / red thing I have is the pad spacer – stick it in between the pads when you’re transporting the bike with the front wheel out.
infovoreFull Member@highlandman, Got a picture of how the brifters are set up? If you can’t find a good braking position in the drops, the shifters might be angled up a bit too much. My Giant shipped with shifters reaching for the skies!
If you put your hand in the crook of the drop, maybe pointing down a bit, and point your index finger, you ought to be able to grab the lever with 1/2 fingers and get it so you have that finger tip control. Also means it’s less likely your hands will bounce off the top of the hood on a bump. If you’re only getting the tip of the lever, the hoods might be pointing too high for you.
It’s still very much personal taste though, so perhaps you’re not a fan of the drop as it is and that’s ok. (Also – different bars have different amounts of drop, I have enjoyed moving to a much shallower drop).
highlandmanFree MemberThanks for that. I’ve started out by flipping the stem and moving 5mm of spacer to raise the bars and have then tilted them down very slightly..
Work in progress.1bikesandboatsFull MemberThanks for that. I’ve started out by flipping the stem and moving 5mm of spacer to raise the bars
Don’t forget that carbon steerers don’t like to have the stem at the very top as it can crush the carbon, so make sure there is a spacer above the stem.
cynic-alFree MemberIs the frame actually lightweight?
I’d be surprised if so, given its cromo from a value brand.
convertFull MemberIs the frame actually lightweight?
Don’t imagine so (though mine is spending the Easter weekend getting some quality R&R with parcelforce so not done the garage lift and assess compulsory new bike test in person). Triple butted 4130, so not gas pipe, but not going to be light either. I’m not super convinced spending lots of cash upgrading it to improve the weight is the right way- it’ll always be a bit hefty no matter what you throw at it – it’s a vfm very functional and tough bike and kind of needs to be celebrated for exactly that. And being purple obviously. £650 for frame and forks at rrp, so (I hope) a bit better than my old PX pompino in terms of material, build and paint finish; but I suspect not by much. But it’s no 853 work of art either.
bikesandboatsFull MemberIt’s always going to be a steel frame but as far as steel goes it seems pretty light, tubes feel quite thin if you give them a tap and I wouldn’t call it a gaspipe special!
I sized up because at 5’11 I’m between M and L, size feels good though and should be perfect once I put an 80mm stem on it.
frogstompFull MemberIs the frame actually lightweight?
Wiggle give the frame only (without fork) weight as 2.32kg which is about 1kg heavier than the stated weight for my alloy NS Rag+. In comparison a Cotic Escapade is stated as 2.63kg (large).
marksnookFree MemberTook mine for a spin today, 1st time on this type of bike. Wow they are fast compared to my mtb! Was giggling blasting down the lanes for an hour!
Seat is horrific though!
Do most people just use the same seat on your mtb or something else?stanstoreyFree MemberHmmmm, I seem to have inadvertently won that Trig on eBay with the dodgy fork 😅
It’s a large, can someone with a large pretty please tell me roughly what length fork steerer I’ll need on it to run a stem a small selection of spacers?
I’ll start rummaging for a fork before it arrives.(I see there is a trig fork on eBay at the moment, presume they’ve not changed the spec of the fork between generations!?)
chestrockwellFull MemberI’d probably wait to see if the fork is saveable tbh, doesn’t look too bad? Mine is a 2021 and the forks are the same. Seems the saddle has changed, mine is a Ragley branded Spoon.
didnthurtFull MemberOne downside with GRX chainsets is they have a unique bottle spacing, you can now buy a few different makes of chainrings but they’re not cheap especially an oval one. Also the smallest ring is not that small if you fancy a nice low gear for touring.
In hindsight I think I should have sold my GRX chainset when new and bought a mountain bike instead.
chakapingFull MemberIs the frame actually lightweight?
I’d be surprised if so, given its cromo from a value brand.
As above, it’s pretty decent for a 4130 frame.
I’ve just swapped the stock wheels for some light-ish 700c ones and the bike feels a lot lighter overall.
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