Prefer matching front and rear tyres?

In mixed conditions, the same tyres but a stickier compound at the front. When it’s drier a semi-slick version at the back (so it still has the big side knobs for cornering), and when it’s muddier a cut spike at the front.

I’ve noticed a lot of enduro racers are running heavier casings at the back, even if the tyres match otherwise, and downhillers are sometimes running lighter than full dual-ply casings on the front as it’s usually the rear that punctures.

I had diff tyres front and rear on my 2 MTBs

But this thread has just made me realise that I have just put WTB Nano 2.1s front and rear on my rigid bike… will the world now implode?

I might be wrong, probably am, but I think the only time I’ve ever used different tyres front/back was while waiting for my RDS-FDS rotor adapter.

It didn’t look odd at all, with a 4.0 JJ front and a 35c Randonneur Pro rear. 😆

Make it more complicated and allow mixed brands but insist on same manufacturer. “Well it’s all chen shin isn’t it really so I’ve got a minion on the front and a butcher on the back and a chunky monkey on the other bike and…”

Yes definitely, same brand/different tyres here also.
TBH pictures of secondhand bikes with mis-matched branded tyres have been enough to put me off of enquiring any further about said bicycles.

i’m running a specialized butcher up front and a continental baron at the back
*reported*

they’re 26″ as well 😛

I ride what I think’s best for the conditions or experiment. Don’t really care if the brands are mixed. At the moment running a conti baron on the front and nobby nic on the back. The baron is slipping out a bit in these dusty/sandy conditions around here but nothing too bad yet.

On my very first MTB I had a pair of Tioga Factory XC tyres (yes that old 🙂 ). They were front and rear specific with each having a very distinct tread pattern suited to its role.

Just done a search and see they’re still available after all these years in all their steel beaded goodness at under £20 for a pair. Pic below – probably not recommended for serious use..

chunky monkeys front and rear for me (different models), grippy front and reasonably rolling rear, enduro on the front trail extreme on the rear great value, and made by Maxxis

Currently running a Chunky monkey on the front and a Rock Razor supergravity on the rear, so no I don’t care about matching tyres. Whatever suits the riding I’m doing. Tyres and tyre pressure are something I obsess over far too much just not manufacturer.

Same brand and to be honest same tyre fore & aft on all bikes, MTB, road, CX & Fat.

I toy with the idea from time to time of putting a faster rolling one on the back of my MTB but for what I think I’d gain I CBA’d.

I’ve got 2.25″ Vittoria Barzo TNT’s on the 29er FS, Vittoria XL or XG Pro TNT on the CX bike, Conti GP4000 SII’s on the road and 4.0″ Schwalbe Jumbo Jim TLE Snake Skins on the fattie.

I do always run the different pressures front and rear though.

I don’t even make sure my rims and wheels match never mind my tyres

Almost always a Minion up front though and something cheap and voluminous on the rear

But this thread has just made me realise that I have just put WTB Nano 2.1s front and rear on my rigid bike… will the world now implode?

Are we still here?

don’t care about the make only care about the performance. currently sporting a conti baron 2.4 F slaughter rear, did have an XR4 on the front. Earlier in the year I was running HR2 2.4 F&R

i never have matching rear and front tyres.

total mish-mash of various surly, maxxis, geax and on-ones depending on conditions and time of year. i do line up the all tyre logos with the valve though, I’m not a total savage.

Subvert the whole thing maaaan. Minion DHR on the front.

Always same. Not smart enough to spec different tyres front and back although I could just follow the STW recommendation/herd. I do get the different jobs and even different size arguments.

FS: Hans Dampf’s and HT: Fat Alberts fwiw

Have rafters full of part worns:

Wired Bontrager slicks that way nearly a kilo each and would puncture if rolled slowly across velvet.

Minion DHF Supertacky.

Ignitor/Crossmark combo I was saving for summer. The Crossmark is bigger than the Ignitor, which is unfortunate.

An utterly shite Nobby Nic that Binners recommended.
Amusingly unsuited to either front or rear use.
May have been designed for a pram.

Pair of Cinders – ’emergency’ spares that haven’t been unfolded for 10 years.
I think the mice may have been at them, best for the bin.

You make decent matching pairs out of that lot.