Pre 2014 bandit owners – advice

Finding the e thru shit for removing the wheel…unscrew this, unscrew that…takes ages especially when you can’t find your bike tool. Has anyone used or can you use a 142×12 QR instead? Seen loads advertised but they have weird bolts on one end?

Sorry if it’s a dunce question, but can’t seem to find an answer with Google.

Ta

Drop transition bikes an email. Usually very quick to reply.

Dropped them a note but think I have it worked out. The trouble is my American Classic hub states X-12 not e thru…but the hub doesn’t matter just the axle and how it interfaces with the frame. The 2014 Bandit has a QR and is still e thru, so must use a Shimano e thru QR.

Doesn’t help that the Shimano e thru QR states for use with Shimano hubs…where in reality it will work with any 142×12 hub but needs an e thru specific dropout.

All bloody confusing!

Really could do with one industry standard IMO!

Lars got back to me within 30mins. Must have got the time difference right!

What was the response from Transition? Is there an alternative?

I like how secure and strong the bolt up back-end is on my 2013 Bandit, but it is a faff when you quickly want to take the wheel out.

Lars said a normal shimano e thru QR can be used no problem. There are 3, deore, slx or xtr that I could find. Evans do the xtr for £22 or cheaper heavier deore from rose for 15 euros not including postage. Think the Evans deal works out better for ease of return if there is an issue.

Loosening 3 bolts is a pain in the arse! At least theyve upgraded it for 2014 models but downgraded to 650b 😉

This is good to know I’ve been wondering this myself since I saw the newer version on the 650b models.

Isn’t the end of the current bolt up version threaded slightly though?

If they’ve upgraded the 2014 model then can you buy and instal the 2014 model dropouts into a pre-2014 frame? I think both dropouts on my Covers are bolted on rather than welded so if the interface is the same then they should be interchangeable.

I’ll buy a QR…and let you know a) if it worjs or b) you don’t hear from me as I have died!

Funkybaj – just bought a thru axle from Evans for £16.59 (sign up to their newsletter and get £5 off).

If you look at the new 650b pics on the Transition website it shows the exact same dropouts as the 2013 model (with the tiny little bolt hole).

Should make life a shed load easier for maintenence and tyre changes.

Just found this thread, I’m a bit late to the party.

But yes I can confirm that a Shimano E – Thru QR works fine in the pre 2014 frame. Been using it for a few months after I got board of having to dig out the multi tool every time I wanted to take the rear wheel off

Just remove the end cap on the drive side and use the QR as you would normally.

With Hans Dampf ghetto tubeless on DT Swiss rims I’ve got more things to worry about than finding my multi-tool should I puncture (thinking this to be the most common reason for removing the rear wheel)!

Just remove the end cap on the drive side

The end cap is removable?

Yep. If you look on the drive side on the rear of the hanger there is a tiny hex bolt to keep the end cap in place.the end cap doesnt screw into the hanger itself.

ah ha tidy cheers for info 🙂

I have a 2012 Covert, I will assume (perhaps incorrectly) that this is the same as the 2013 drop out arrangement. I quite like the standard bolt in option as I can screw the axle in lightly thus giving very little side load on the bearings (Hope Pro 2 hubs) and then the locking bolt goes in tight for security.
Similar method to the Fox 36, 20mm axle were the axle winds in lightly and held secure by the QR levers on the fork legs.
Will using a QR axle potentially encourage more / unnecessary side load to be placed on the bearings?
As Shimano hubs have a different bearing design they can with more side load and the bearing seats are angular. I have to point out that I have not seen inside a Shimano hub for more than 10 years so things may have changed
I have seen reports of Hope hubs (that contain plain bearings) failing prematurely, where I have never had an issue with Hope hub bearings other than reasonable wear and tear / water ingress over time. I have usually attributed this to over tightening of QR’s.

Of course this all may be complete nonsense, I maybe thinking about this too much and will be happy to be corrected as I may learn something.
🙂

Interesting musings, I’ve just been doing my usual hand tight plus a tweek 8O.