Pinnacle Arkose Three (jameso to the forum please)

Reading the description in Evans website it still describes the R1 as a gravel bike though. Suppose it’s just less road focussed than a full on road bike. But those tyres would struggle with what I want to do i think.

Thanks to those who have given me advice, I finally picked up my new Arkose! I went for the D2 in the end, primarily because I wanted the hydraulic brakes, first ride out on it (still with the pedals it came with on it, just a quick blast round the Common) And I know I made the right choice, the brakes feel superb straight or if the box, in a different league to cable discs.
I’m looking forward to putting in a lot of miles on this bike!
Gratuitous new bike picture:

Hmm, forum doesn’t like Google photos or I’m doing something wrong?

Anyone know what bearings I need for the 2017 Arkose Alfine front hub?

^ loose ones, not sure of the size offhand though sorry.

Jameso – whilst your here… what 650b rim width and tyre width did you fit in your old arkose (before the frame changed to fit massive tyres)

^ I didn’t actually Jim, always used the v2 (2015) spec frame on 700×40, mainly the SS version and Arkose 2 1x/Hylex spec.

I did use the v1 Pyrolite as a 650B a lot, a more road-biased frame that suited the tyres available and what I used it for, that was 2014 so on Arch EXs with 38mm Panaracer col de la vie or 42mm PariMotos were the main options. They’d fit fine on older Arkoses although the Pyrolite had less BB drop and was still a bit low on 38-40mm tyres. PariMotos are really fast but a bit fragile, hence WTB road plus stuff working out well for what I was after.

I’m still wondering about clearance with my Arkose. I’ve got the 2017 version, so officially 50mm 650b or 45mm 700c.

Currently got Maxxis Refuse 50x650b on there and they fit fine with SKS Al 56mm guards. In fact up front there seems to be loads of clearance, at least 2cm clearance to the guard, and about 8mm each side.

I’d like to try a fast rolling mtb tyre though, like a Thunder Burt or Maxxis Aspen. But they all come in 2.1″ amd I’m not sure adding 3mm width plus side knobs is feasible without rubbing holes in my forks. What have people gotten away with?

And I also wonder what’s the biggest possible with 700c… Would a fast 50mm 700c tyre fit up front with reasonable (say 5mm) clearance? I’m thinking Soma Cazadero or Schwalbe 50mm G-one allround

I bought a second hand Arkose X 2018 last month from some guy who had literally ridden it 5 miles and then put it away (wet!!!!) for 6 months. I ummed and ahhed about it for ages cos it was XL and I’m 6ft but in the end bought it as it was a great deal.

Having now done 300 miles on it, no way would I go down a size – its perfect though I did swap the stem for an 80mm as 100mm is just not responsive enough on singletrack. Having a high stack suits these type of bikes.

The Hylex brakes are superb, much better than I expected and on a par with much more expensive hydro’s (though I appreciate they don’t have shifters) and off road I feel the bar end shifter is actually easier to use than brifters.

The WTB nano’s are OK but very heavy so they will be going for something lighter but otherwise the spec seems spot on

Except the paint – thats pants that is.

Except the paint – thats pants that is.

I wondered if it had improved, and kept meaning to ask on this thread.

I bought a second hand 2015(?) Arkose 4 a few months ago – I love it, but the paint is terrible. I strapped some bikepacking bags to it to carry my camping gear between stations and the start of an audax (so about 15 miles total) and they’ve rubbed through the paint and primer to the bare metal.

I think the paint on my Blue 2016 has been great.

I strapped some bikepacking bags to it to carry my camping gear between stations and the start of an audax (so about 15 miles total) and they’ve rubbed through the paint and primer to the bare metal.

Some one on hear strapped an inner tune to their Bronson. That wore through to the carbon weave. My conclusion at the moment is that strapping to a frame isn’t the way to go….

Likewise with my 2017 Arkose 3. Apart from a gouge on the top tube where I caught it on a wall, the Matt paint finish on mine is fantastic.

My Arkose 4, coming up to a year old, has lost paint where my left heel must brush past the chain stay (I use flats). Never had it before on a bike, but it’s done almost 2000 miles in all weathers and mostly off road, so fair enough. Rest of paintwork is fine though.

Was chatting to a friend today who has the exact same bike and he’s barely touched his mtb in months, since having the arkose. My mtb has had the winter off! To me that shows what a great bike The Arkose is 👍🏼

Some one on hear strapped an inner tune to their Bronson. That wore through to the carbon weave. My conclusion at the moment is that strapping to a frame isn’t the way to go….

That seems an odd conclusion to come to (except in the case of unprotected carbon). To take just one example, I’m pretty certain all 164 riders currently on the Tour Divide will have decided strapping stuff to their bikes for 2-4 weeks of riding the continental divide is the best way to transport it. Come to think of it, hasn’t James O himself done the Tour Divide? Would be surprised if he used panniers.

I’ve covered thousands of off-road miles on my Genesis Longitude with bikepacking kit strapped to it, and apart from it going a bit matt where the straps sit, there’s no paint damage.

Juts joined the club! 😆

I’m currently trying to buy a road/gravel/adventure/cross bike and to be honest I’m struggling. Because I’ve only ever ridden MTBs I’m convinced I need some comfort and grip, hence the gravel type bike with larger tyres. But I’d also like to do some triathlons so want some narrower tyres.

I’ve just had a look at the arkose D2 but at 11.5kg it’s heaver than I’d hoped for, is much of that in the tyres? If I could lose 1.5kg with some less voluminous tyres for if/when I do a trim I think I could go for it.

I’ve just had a look at the arkose D2 but at 11.5kg it’s heaver than I’d hoped for, is much of that in the tyres? If I could lose 1.5kg with some less voluminous tyres for if/when I do a trim I think I could go for it.

11.5 sounds wrong – should be in the 10-10.5 range. Tyres are ~500g. Road 32s will be 300-320? Change the seatpost and saddle – lose 250g or so. The Arkose frameset is pretty competitive weight so it can be built up light.

Jameso – any plans to bring back the SS version (or any Alfine framesets in a medium 😉)

Slight tweak to my commute means it would be an ideal replacement for my Dolomite SS!

(Or – shameless plug if anyone has one for sale!)

Andy

I’ve covered thousands of off-road miles on my Genesis Longitude with bikepacking kit strapped to it, and apart from it going a bit matt where the straps sit, there’s no paint damage.

That’s impressive. One weekend with a framepack on my old Genesis Equilibrium went through the paint. And that was a road ride with an absence of mud.

What are the shortest stems people are running on an Arkose? I’m running a 60mm and contemplating going down to 50mm.

I realise if it feels good I shouldn’t give a crap what others are running, but just curious really…

Thanks Jameso, I think I saw the weight either on the Evans site or on a review.
I’m really struggling to choose a new bike as I want a roadie, but also like the ability to head off down gravel paths, and the spec is great on the D2.
Might see if Evans bristol have one so I can pop to see it and have a sit on it.

Pimpin’ Evans will let you have a 20 minute go on the bike subject to some paper work

legometeorology

Member
What are the shortest stems people are running on an Arkose? I’m running a 60mm and contemplating going down to 50mm.

I realise if it feels good I shouldn’t give a crap what others are running, but just curious really…

Dunno, yet, have been playing around with it a bit, had a 40mm and a 60mm kicking about to try them, too short for me, 60 almost there, and the 100mm that comes with the r2 just feels that we bit too long, so I’m gonny settle on an 80mm I think.

Incidentally, just for info, an SLX 11-40 cassette works with the new 105 rear mech no worries, just needed b screw adjustment and new chain obv. I need the lower gears for the time-being, I’ll stick the 11-32 back on when I a bit fitter again! Well saying that, if I end up changing to bigger tyres with more tread in the future I might just keep it that way, see how the next month or 2 go! 😆

I want a roadie, but also like the ability to head off down gravel paths

Try one out, ideally try the ‘D’ series with one of the ‘R’ series back to back. I think you might like it. A lot of gravel bikes that are going quite slack now in an effort to stabilise a bike type that’s just inherently never going to be that great on ‘proper’ off-road, the Arkose has a steering geo that’s road-like on 28mm tyres and still stable enough on 45mms but not floppy-steering slack. On big tyres it’s still quick to react, as that’s what the bike type does naturally. Save the slackness for bikes with bigger bars and tyres, imo.

Damn! Help required please.
I have a 2017 arkose 2 that has developed a bit of a creak from what I thought was probably the bottom bracket so this morning I decided to remove the cranks and give the BB a clean and grease.
I watched a couple of YouTube videos first and it looked pretty straight forward with the self extracting bolt thing.
I began to undo the inner bolt which was pretty tight at first but then loosened off until it seated onto the outer ring and it tightened up again as the videos suggested it would . So without paying much attention to what was happening I used a bit of force and wound the bolt out thinking the crank was starting to release as expected,at this point it all went loose and I realised I had sheared the top of the outer ring off and left half the threads inside the crank! DOH!
So my question is – how can I remove the cranks now ? And if I have to scrap the crank to remove it (grinder etc) what would be a decent alternative without costing a small fortune?
It is currently 2×10 with 48 32 upfront and 32 rear cassette which I was ok with but open to other sensibly priced solutions.
Cheers.

sheared the top of the outer ring off and left half the threads inside the crank

https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/files/index/download/id/6d5e0fadec036274cafa91ef946daba162/

^ exploded view – can you get part 8 as a spare, or use one from another self-extractor bolt and engage enough threads to get the crank off if you heat the crank arm / use WD40 etc? If not, heat and mallet or heat then penetrating lube and mallet. Beware of penetrating lube then heat : )

Cheers for the tips, I’ll investigate further later, will just have to put up with the creak for the moment lol.

I just noticed that the 2020 version of the Arkose line has been released. Did anyone notice any difference between the 2019 line? I know there had been some concerns about chain jumping, due to the freehub/wobbly cassette. I wonder if this has been addressed in the 2020 version.

^ it’s just a website management thing. They’re the same bikes, same spec and rrp.

Cool. Thanks for the clarification @jameso.

I need a new big ring on my 2018 Arkose 3.

Following a chain and cassette replacement by a (poor) LBS, the small ring is fine, but the big ring is jumping when I put torque through it – was told it was fine when collecting the bike. Is there anything cheaper than £110 for a Praxis Works that will bolt straight on?

Wee question on the R2. I should know this cause I just fixed my first puncture, but I stupidly didn’t look under the rim tape! 😆

To go tubeless on there, are the rims sealed, or do I need to tape them up?

The Arkose frameset is pretty competitive weight so it can be built up light.

Does this mean the frameset is going to be available finally?

Does anyone (@jameso perhaps) know if there is chainstay clearance for a 40t oval ring to fit on the Arkose X samox 5bolt chainset which comes with a 38t round as standard?

If we knew the % ovalisation or max radius I could check it in CAD, but otherwise … not sure sorry. I suspect it’ll be very close, a 42T single ring is about the max and oval rings are often 7-10% ie 43-44T effective at the high point.

Its an absolute black CX oval

10.5-11.4% ; Timing of 112-113° after TDC (top dead center)

A 42T with 11.4% oval is effectively almost 47T. Your 38T ring has a radius of ~80mm. A 46T geared ring is 96.4mm, a 48T is 100.5mm, and SS rings are a tad taller tooth profile. Just under 47T will be ~98mm. So if your current ring could be about 18mm bigger radius…

Just serviced the freehub on my 2016 Arkose 4 as it’s not disengaging as well as it should.

Spec sheet says it’s a KT freehub, which I believe is made by Reynolds: https://reynoldscycling.com/products/reynolds-11-speed-freehub-body – if jameso could confirm, that would be handy 🙂

It was fairly clean inside, and not excessively worn, and it feels nice and sharp when engaging, so I’m not sure what the issue is.

I came across this advice from Reynolds on an issue with a seal causing drag, so I’m wondering if that’s it: https://www.upgradebikes.co.uk/files/technical/reynolds/KT-Hub-Service.pdf

On mine, the seal seemed pretty well attached to the hub shell (rather than the freehub body as per the note) but was straight enough so I didn’t risk damaging it moving it.

Re-assembled with a bit of teflon grease and some chain lube on the pawls – seems worse if anything – perhaps the grease is too thick.

Anyone else had this kind of problem?

what do I need to convert stock rims and tyres to tubeless? Is it just tape, valves and sealant?
Cheers!

Getting a used Arkose 2018. Wanting to run a steel fork for front rack like a pizza rack or low riders. However, the only options mostly have 1 1/8 straight steerers. What do I need to get this to fit on the tapered headtube on the Arkose?