Pinnacle Arkose Three (jameso to the forum please)

Thanks for the input everyone.  I will probably employ my local bike shop to get set up.  They’re recommending the Milkit kit but to me it seems very expensive for what it is.

It’s worth learning how to do tubeless yourself, as you’ll need to top up sealant every now and then.

I predict a 15 mile walk home at some point in the future for hochmatoch! 😆

Ach wheesht! I’d like to get set up properly and then be able to do the topping up and maintaining myself

I have just ordered an Arkose 3, I want some wide (>35mm) road tyres – any recommendations?

@hochmatoch

i set my arkose 4 up tubeless myself having zero experience with it – was dead easy. 2 valves and some 25mm wide VAR tubeless tape. Ensure when you’re sticking it down you really stretch it into the central well of the rim and press any air out using your thumb. Put a single layer on, pair of schwalbe g one speeds went up and held air first time with a normal track pump. Getting the tyres on (and the riddler’s off) was fine with some IRC tubeless levers. Squirted the sealant in through the valve with a syringe gizmo from wiggle.

@charliem many thanks for this

Will anyone take some pictures? Interested in tire space front and back…..

It is fairly easy to set up tubeless, when everything goes to plan.

It’s when it doesn’t that it can be a pain in the arse.

I’m riding my Arkose with 45C Riddlers on. The 38s are great for gravel, but struggle a bit when it gets more uneven.

The thing I like is the fact that I can pretty much go anywhere on this bike. I’ve got a rack and panniers on and it pretty much goads me to go for long rides think about adventures on it. I’ve also taken it out for some fairly gentle mountain biking with friends. It’s transformed my commute which is now off road for a significant part, cutting out a nasty main road.

The things I’m not so pleased about are:

The overly long stem it came with (90mm on a L) – now swapped out for a 70mm.

The fragile rear rim which already need truing after 6 weeks.

The Evans own-brand mudguards which rattled incessantly and didn’t have enough clearance for 45C tyres despite stating so on the pack.

Things that would make it a perfect bike for me:

A 650B OEM option with OEM wide guards

A bolt thru rear axle. I’ve already had the QR twist out of the dropouts down a slightly gnarly descent.

Possibly a titanium framed version?

Overall I’m very pleased and would recommend it to anyone looking for a fun do-it-all bike.

I’ve already had the QR twist out of the dropouts down a slightly gnarly descent.

Loose QR? The only forces going on that would move the axle in the dropouts are side forces vs a loose QR. It’s not the same as the front where there’s a better reason for a thru-axle.

The fwe guards … they’re not great are they. We’ve got some Pinnacle guards due in later this year, same type as the ones used on the Chromium. I have them on my bike, they’re solid. When they’re in stock PM me and we’ll sort a swap for you.

The overly long stem it came with (90mm on a L) – now swapped out for a 70mm.

thats pretty standard length for a large road based frame

I know I asked before about di2, but the one thing I cant figure out is… Would i be able to feed the front mech wire out the bottom of the BB hole and up the seattube to the mech?

Also, is there an internal path to the rear mech? i.e inside the chainstay

Thank you.

Is the Brand X CX dropper post with internal routed cable compatible with an 17″ arkose 4 frame? Heres a link http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/brand-x-ascend-27-2-cx-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod159175

Sure looks like a great addition…Cheers

I think an internal routed dropper post won’t be compatible with the Arkose frame.

I drilled the frame to connect the rear light internally and had to go around the EBB shell on the outside.

Wouldn’t this work with a dropper post, too?

Better to go in from the front or rear of the tube than sides on that frame, but it would work for the cable or wire. No guarantee it’ll not crack there after a while though.

I was thinking that if i could get to the shifter-brake internal cable routing on the down tube thru the BB shell id be good.

James – do the ST and BB shell connect or is the BB shell blocked off?

flows – recently had a shoulder replaced and have read how folks in post op have favored flat and alt bars to dropbars.

I was wondering what my arkose would look like using a riser or jones J bend bar other than a drop bar and now i know. I have a j bend bar set up on a CX bike i use for commuting and love it. It would be an easy transfer over to the arkose…..

jrmac – I really like the riser for commuting duties or shorter general rides. If you like the multiple hand positions of the Jones bar on your CX you can’t go wrong with it on the Arkose.

You can route an electronic cable internally around the bb but a cable hose wouldn’t have enough room because the holes aren’t that big.

Healing vibes to your shoulder!

Does anyone know if the 2019 model is going to have thru axle at the back?

Loose QR? The only forces going on that would move the axle in the dropouts are side forces vs a loose QR. It’s not the same as the front where there’s a better reason for a thru-axle.

I’ve had issues with my On-one Fatty’s rear QR, Shimano, Salsa, Hope are fine, but the OEM ones sometime just aren’t putting enough tension on the axle it seems. It never twisted out but resulted in a persistent creaking and would occasionally migrate a few mm so the disk rubbed.

My 2016 Arkose 2 with a set of Hunt 4Seasons Gravel tubeless wheels. The new wheels transform the bike. I have also replaced the TRY Spyre callipers with Shimanos and they work so much better.

Can’t make my mind up whether to get the c2w friendly Arkose 2 is stump up the extra £250 for the 3. I like the black finish of the 3!

@jameso

Hi James – I thought I’d ask here instead of starting a new thread as I know you still check in here (which is much appreciated and one of the reasons I opted for an Arkose previously and am looking at a Dolomite now).

I am planning on purchasing a Dolomite frameset to build up as a winter bike (using existing bits and TRP Spyres for now, with hydro calipers to follow in due course).

I’m 5ft11 / 180cm, with (I think) a 33″ inseam – I’m on a large Arkose, which works well and would appreciate your thoughts on sizing for the Dolomite. The chart suggests medium goes up to 5ft10, with the large for 5ft10 to 6ft1.

Thanks very much,

Ben

I’m on a large Arkose, which works well and would appreciate your thoughts on sizing for the Dolomite.

Hi Ben, tbh I try to avoid sizing advice online as it’s so hard to do well. But here it’s easy, buy the L : ) The bikes are all sized from the same methods, as far as you can go with any worthwhile logic on something subjective. If you like the Arkose I can’t see why you won’t be happy on a Dolomite with no more than +/-10mm on the stem or some adjustment to the saddle position. Evans has a Right Bike Guarantee so if I’m wrong, just blame my advice! And we’ll swap it (within 30 days).

Cheers, James

My Riddlers have to go: I’m averaging a puncture every two rides. Does anyone have a recommendation for an alternative with a similar balance of on and off road performance?

@jameso Thanks very much (and caveats noted!)

Frameset will be purchased this evening and built up soon.

@ransos,

the Riddlers both pinch flatted after the first 2 miles but tubeless they weren’t great either.

Just installed Spesh Sawtooth 42c on both ends tubeless and apart from being horrific to seat, ride well. They’re much grippier (surprisingly for me) on loose climbs than the Riddlers. Bit more give too.

I’ve gone to Riddler 45s. Fingers crossed, so far they seem to be holding up well. I have set them up tubeless.

@sumsar81 sorry it took so long

as you can see, miles of clearance each end, these are the 38mm Riddlers

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-MAMSauQWvjEjbvjPIBO8NFdjrfZ6PJ4/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DzXE5VY5P77YQX_4emS9KpJOIGgfMKKR

Hope these links work?

Really helpful so a big thank you!! Much appreciated …

Is it to much to ask how much space you have between seattube and tire and space just behind bottom bracket if that makes any sense….

Is the Neon pretty much an Arkose with flat bars?

Any experiences here with 700×42 WTB Resolutes in a 2016 Arkose fork?

According to the reviews they can blow up to 44mm sometimes which I’m afraid is going to be too much for the fork. I’ve thought on downsizing to 650Bx42 Resolutes but that would lower the BB quite a bit compared to a 700×40 tire.

I’ve ran 650Bx42 Panaracers Pari Moto’s this spring and summer on the road and must say I’m quite impressed. I’ve only found it to be lacking compared to 700×28 when riding at speeds around and above 40 kph and when sprinting, then it becomes a bit too draggy.

Is the Neon pretty much an Arkose with flat bars?

Yes, basically just that. Not the same frame geo but very close overall.

Any experiences here with 700×42 WTB Resolutes in a 2016 Arkose fork?

I know Nano 40s were about as big as we could go in that fork so probably not, but WTB measure tyre tread width so they may vary a bit from the Nano. You’ll be down to 4mm or so clearance I think. The new fork was specced to fit 45s with loads more mud clearance.

Just picked up my Arkose 3 yesterday. Going to be using it as my winter commuter so fit some guards and pannier rack. I’ve got mudguards but stuck with what rack to get. What do you guys recommend ? Cheaper the better and also easy to fit.

I’ve been deliberating between an Arkose and a Dolomite for commuter/winter trainer duties and sure both would be fine. The better spec dolomites seem to be sold out in a medium and I don’t want a white bike so it rules out the dolomite 3. So question is really how much slower would an Arkose be on the Sunday club run? Or do I wait until the new stock comes in and how long will it be?

@joat – I bought an Arkose 3 about 6 weeks ago, it has been amazing. Very sure footed and comfortable.

I have ridden it on two 70 mile club-runs and it did not seem to be a struggle (even with the standard WTB Riddlers fitted. I have some 42mm Conti Contact Speeds arriving before the weekend that I will probably swap over before this weekend’s club-run. I was a bit concerned about how slow it would be but have been pleasantly surprised.

So question is really how much slower would an Arkose be on the Sunday club run?

As stock bikes, maybe 2kph max average at a guess (based on my experiences where 25-27kph is my solo av on rolling roads) and most of that will be in the tyres. If the tyres and wheels were the same any time/speed differences would be down to your position. Get the position thhe same and I expect you’d need a lab to measure the differences.

Looks like I might be bothering the bank account soon, thanks, I think.