Pinnacle Arkose Three (jameso to the forum please)

The tourer looks fantastic – brilliant spec and silly value – didn’t realise it was out 🙂

Looks proper classy too. What’s the tyre clearance like James?

Impressed you’ve got rid of the toe overlap, so many don’t bother and the gearing is spot on.

Nice one.

Ok 👌 and thanks…

I have discovered that the wheelsize 700 is the same as a 29er so a small 29er mtb Tyre will fit the arkose … Any one who hav tried it?

Is it worth the extra 450£ worth to buy the arkose 4 instead of the arkose x….coming from mtb  I don’t know anything about the specs on the bikes other then brands and so on….will at handlerbar like the salsa cow bell fit the arkose? Perhaps the hose will be to short but is there anything else I’m missing?? Cheers and happy trails

@sumsar

I think it’s worth going for tubeless ready which the 4 (poss the 3) gets you over the X…

I had 2 pinch flats in the first 2 miles of riding my 4, so I went tubeless (took minutes) and it’s much better.

@sumsar81

Max size is 700x45mm which would be roughly 29×1.75.

If you want wider go 650b.

I’ve just bought a Pinnacle Arkose 4

Has anyone had any luck with 650B wheels and 50mm mudguards?

If so, what combination of wheels and tyres have you used please?

Quick question – does the 2015 Arkose 4 have a qr or 12mm axle on the front wheel?

Thanks!

Ian

But the Alex rims on the arkose x is tubeless….

@sumsar81 thye Arkose 4 will have a bigger spread of gears at the back (useful if terrain is hilly – duh) and the gear shift is part of the brake lever, instead of being at the bottom of the drops. The gears are also 11 speed.

Jameso with apologies I need your guidance again.

As you said, those tyres were too thick for my Arkose 2 2015. Not a problem, I’ve moved the stock WTB nano 40c ones to the new rims, along with the existing brake rotors.

This is where I’m a little stuck, all with regards to cassette spacers. I moved the stock SRAM 1020 (presumably same as 1030) cassette across as well. Compared against the other wheels, it seemed to sit at the same height. Torqued it down to 40nm.

In the bike repair stand, in 9th gear it almost feels as if it’s not indexed properly. But it’s fine on a ride and there’s no free play in the cassette.

So long story short – are the stock alexrims/joytech hubs designed for 10 or 11 speed? Assuming they’re 10 as there was no spacer behind the cassette, if I pick up the Shimano HG81 from Evans, for the original wheels, do I need a 1mm spacer?

I’ve got an HG81 on my MTB that I converted from 3×8 to 1×10 and that didn’t need one.

thanks

edit: or does all this spacer stuff only apply to road wheels? 🙂

or does all this spacer stuff only apply to road wheels?

Correct, top marks.. 2015 bike has a 10s freehub, as far as I can remember w/o spec detail in front of me. Pretty sure tho as 11s was a way off the Arkose 2 level then. Fwiw I find even when swapping between 2 Shimano 10s cassettes of different ratios I often need to adjust the gear cable tension a little.

Fab thank you. I think I’ll just grab another SRAM cassette then to keep it consistent.

Anyone run a 2016 Arkose with 650b wheels and tyres , hows the clearance on the forks ??

After reading various threads about clearances etc, decided to treat myself to some Hunt 650b wheels and some Maxxis re fuse 2.00 tyres, all went well, up first time tubeless , rear has bags of room but front has probably 2-3mm max clearance either side 🙁 … not happy as bit too close for comfort,…. time to change the tyres or the fork ??

Jameso … do the later frames have more fork clearance ?

cheers

I’m running 650b with Re-Fuse 2.0″ on a 2017 Arkose. Loads of room front and back.

@sumsar…. so they are!

@ mounse 701 , Must be the difference in years as mines a 2016, any chance of a pic of the fork clearance you have please ?

cheers

Stumpym4, yes, we specced a new fork for 2017. 5mm longer with loads more crown clearance. Rear stays are about the same. In 2016 there was some good stuff being developed for 650B so the changes were made then.

Cheers jameso, so my options are , new frame set , new forks and or different tyres ! … I even spoke to stu from bearbones , as he has an older arkose and they fit his just fine ??

The older 2012-13 fork had a shade more clearance in the area lower down where a 650B tyre shoulder sits.

@Jameso

I’m still getting shifting issues (mainly in second gear which occurred from new) and have noticed the jockey wheels  don’t line up with the sprockets (The upper wheel sits outboard of a line between cassette sprocket and lower wheel)…

Am I right in thinking they should all line up, or is this a SRAM thing?

It’s done 4 rides and hadn’t had any impact to bend cage in at bottom.  Shop time? 🙁

Can anyone comment on a decent set of comfy winter tyres, and some good fitting guards that they’ve used for the Arkrose?

im coming from Conti GP GT’s 25, looking at the same in 28 tbh…

I got a set of these:

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Bontrager/NCS-1-700×45-Mudguards/6AKJ

which were a doddle to fit and seem to be fine, although I’ve only had them about a month so no idea if they actually work in the rain 🙂 They don’t rattle and there’s loads of space round the 33mm tyres I’ve got.

Also, I’ve been using specialized roubaix tyres and they seem good and not too pricey.

Can anyone please tell me if new models is on the way this summer ..?

Don’t want to buy one if there something “nicer” on the way?

Cheers

I need a new bottom bracket, and a tool to remove the current one and fit the replacement. Will any of the normal external bottom bracket tools work? Also, I’ve seen the Samox one on the Evans website but it’s £30 which is more than I can bought they’d be. Any suggestions for a good value/quality replacement? Shimano would be fine

its a 2015 arkose 2

@jameso are there any ss arose still available?

Ive fit up to 1.8 29er tires and a cowbell 3 (trp mechanicals) on my 17′ arkose.

Here is another photo of the Pinnacle Arkose 2, 2016.

This is so cool info big Thanks….

Do you remember the tire ? Big side knobs?

And do you have pictures of the cowbell and the tires?

Cheers Rasmus

Quick update on my creaking bottom bracket. Bought the park tool bottom bracket tool and a new samox BB from evans. Installed it last night – pretty straight forward (once I got the rubber/plastic mallet out) and the park tool worked great

oh, go on then, here’s another photo.  I’ve taken my pinnacle away with me on holiday to the south coast.

Hi folks,

I’m very tempted to get a Pinnacle Arkose X for my commute/general dicking about when I don’t want to ride my MTB… but was wondering, how easy would it be to convert to SRAM Apex or Rival 1×11? Alternatively, are there any Shimano offerings in 1×11, if that would be easier/cheaper? Sorry, I’m out of touch with the latest developments over the past few years! 1×10 was still the new thing when I converted my Mega 😀

Cheers,

Lee

Sorry RS, missed this,

The tourer looks fantastic – brilliant spec and silly value – didn’t realise it was out

Thanks – no fanfare launch needed, just a tourer isn’t it ; ) they sell steadily in stores and that’s that. I like bikes like that. Tyres are 35mm w/ guards as std, with loads of space. Road/tour 40s would fit. There’s more space up front if you wanted to put a bigger front tyre on it.

 I’m very tempted to get a Pinnacle Arkose X for my commute/general dicking about when I don’t want to ride my MTB… but was wondering, how easy would it be to convert to SRAM Apex or Rival 1×11? Alternatively, are there any Shimano offerings in 1×11, if that would be easier/cheaper?

The Arkose 4 with SRAM 1×11? Converting the Arkose X would involve a new rear wheel / wheelset, brakes and transmission. The aim of the Arkose X is to do a similar job, with brilliant hydro brakes, at a lower cost (and we had 1x with hydro out a couple of years ahead of the SRAM CX 1×11 so we’re keen to keep the format in the range)

@jameso are there any ss arose still available?

Sold out now sorry. A shame, I think it had one of the best paint jobs we’ve done and I didn’t grab myself a L before we sold them all. We do have Arkose Alfine framesets though, basically the same thing, an Arkose with a pinch-shell EBB.

Can anyone please tell me if new models is on the way this summer ..?

Don’t want to buy one if there something “nicer” on the way?

New models due November … like when new model year bikes used to come out, before 2019 bikes got released in June 2018 : )

The Arkose 4 with SRAM 1×11? Converting the Arkose X would involve a new rear wheel / wheelset, brakes and transmission. The aim of the Arkose X is to do a similar job, with brilliant hydro brakes, at a lower cost (and we had 1x with hydro out a couple of years ahead of the SRAM CX 1×11 so we’re keen to keep the format in the range)

Thanks for the reply James.

The 4 is over budget sadly (limited to £1000 C2W voucher).

A new wheel? Why is that? I’ve swapped between different speed SRAM and Shimano cassettes on my MTB wheelset (Mavic Crossmax ST) with no issues.

How about adding a XT 11-42t cassette and one of the 11spd Shadow mechs? Can the bar end shifter accommodate an extra gear?

^ If you used a Shimano 11s cassette you’d not need a new wheel, no … I was thinking full SRAM. Must keep my bodging hat on…

If you prefer Shimano 1×11 all you’ll need to do is either use the bar end shifter in friction – it’s really not as hard as some might think, quite nice once you’re used to it and all of a sudden you’re free of all pains in the arse related to index compatibility. Or get a Microshift 11s MTB barenders, or the easier-to-find thumbie and convert it to a barender (https://www.charliethebikemonger.com/microshift-thumb-shifters-10-and-11-speed-2924-p.asp – thumbs up to CTBM)

Hiya James.

Wondered if you could confirm the tyre clearance on the tourer?

Anything else you’d like to tell us about it?

Thanks.

Hi,

I have the Pinnacle Arkose 4 and I’m loving it, the spec is excellent for the money.  I must say James that your ongoing contribution to this forum played a big part in my decision to go with the Arkose.  Respect and thanks to you for this really impressive level of engagement with your customers.

I’m hoping for some advice on going tubeless.  The bike is sold as “tubeless ready” but my local bike shop have advised I should get some new tape for the rims they reckon the stock stuff looks a bit porous.  I checked the spec sheet and am none the wiser when it comes to the right rim tape width and also the valve lengths required for conversion can you help?

The Riddler tyres are fantastic but after I punctured when I stupidly hit a kerb too fast I could not for the life of me get the bead off the rim to replace the tube, I had to take the wheel in to the shop for help.  I now dread the thought of puncturing out in the middle of nowhere and figure that going tubeless will reduce puncture risk.

Any help appreciated cheers

On the plus side if the bead was a pig to get off at least it should be a good tubeless seal! 🙂

Did you work your way all the way around both sides with your thumbs to break the seal?

Planet X have tubeless tape, good and valves quite cheap at the moment, assuming they haven’t applied a random price hike since I last bought some of course!

Att hochmatoch : Goin tubeless will change the cycling for you….. Try with some gorilla tape or kapton tape. My last bike with wtb rims didn’t work with wtbs own tape don’t no why…but I do know that tubeless is good overall.

Can you tak a picture of your bike with tire clearance both in front and in the rear ? I would really help a bike friend in Denmark ….

( James is indeed very helpful is he a dealer or ?)

Cheers

hochmatoch – going tubeless will reduce your risk of puncturing. However if you struggled to repair a puncture in the inner tube, setting up tubeless is going to be a big undertaking for you.

I’ve got my Arkose 4 set up tubeless, and I’m experienced at doing it, and I found it to be a bit of a struggle, both with the original tyres, and the new set (Riddler 45C) that I’ve put on it. So much so that I had to go and buy a tubeless inflator.

Converting too tubeels can be struggle…. But a good trick is to use the tire tube…

First put the tubeless tape on the naked rim. Then put the tire on with a tire tube just like normal. Put air in the tube and make the tire “pop” out in the rim. Then you remove the tube but only loosen the tire in one side. Then fill air in the tire and normally this will help when the tubeless sealant is making the air staying in the tire. It’s also a good idea to use som extra sealant when the tire is set up the first time…

Hope my English is OK?

New models due November … like when new model year bikes used to come out, before 2019 bikes got released in June 2018 : )

James – Any plans to offer a full bike with 650B wheels?