Darkside. Oh no- I bought the wrong the wrong bike size

Short flaying arms though…..

Short flaying arms though…..

T. rex stylee

Personally, I don’t believe you have the wrong size, just the wrong set up. Bars are in the wrong position. But I think your saddle is too far back so you are putting too much weight on your arms as you lean forward.

Set the saddle position first to make your core and legs take your weight. Then worry about stem and bar position. It’s not rocket science, but I’ve seen some dreadful fits from some shops.

I’m sure your dimensions are well within the normal distribution. Post a sideways shot of you on the bike. pedals level. On the drops and hoods.

when i first got my road bike i felt my arms were always stretched out and my hands were a little numbed…

I think it’s just getting used to it…

if your bar is obscuring your front hub when you are sat on the bike, it’s pretty much bob on.

Think we need pictures, multiple angles, lycra no baggies.

Angleset headset bearings flipped 180 bit of reach and sharpen up the steering. win win.

Did you try flipping the stem first that may be enough to alter your position for more comfort.

I have nothing useful to add, but I would like to say a big “thank you” for yet another hilarious “Hora bike size” thread 😀

+1 for changing the forks BTW, that’ll probably fix it

How does your position on the new bike compare to your old steel one?

Hora, why don’t you post some photos of the bike as it is now. Side on shot. I’m willing to bet its something as simple as bars rotated too far forwards or saddle too far back.

I feel guilty.when hora posted a PIC of his new bike on Facebook I simply posted “wrong size”.The power of suggestion…

May seem counter-intuitive, but try moving the saddle back. You can then easily support a lower crouch (think sticking your bum out when doing a squat). This may help.

Did you have a Retul bike fit at P-X then, and not just some guy looking at you on the bike again? I am surprised they said it was the wrong size, rather than changing the contact point locations..

As alluded to above I don’t see why you’d need to change the bike. I think there’s a lot of b-s thrown around about frames fitting correctly- out of the box two bikes can feel very different even if they’re the same size, but you should easily be able to change contact points so they feel identical.
You’ve 3 contact points (well 5 really)- hands, bum, feet, and only the cranks location are pretty much fixed in space.

Whatever ideal position the fitter has calculated for you can almost always be recreated on any frame, unless it’s several sizes out. Whether it’s truly the right position for you is a different matter, but it’s a bit early for you be talking about changing the bike.
Rotate your hips forward, flatten/ straighten out your back, that’ll help. Build your core strength.

You’ve all fallen for it!

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Horas bike and he knows it. Earlier this week I sold my bike and bought a new one because it was too big. Hora is blatantly trying the same excuse with his mrs!

Was there a sweepstake on how long he kept this one?

As alluded to above I don’t see why you’d need to change the bike. I think there’s a lot of b-s thrown around about frames fitting correctly- out of the box two bikes can feel very different even if they’re the same size, but you should easily be able to change contact points so they feel identical.
You’ve 3 contact points (well 5 really)- hands, bum, feet, and only the cranks location are pretty much fixed in space.

Whatever ideal position the fitter has calculated for you can almost always be recreated on any frame, unless it’s several sizes out. Whether it’s truly the right position for you is a different matter, but it’s a bit early for you be talking about changing the bike.
Rotate your hips forward, flatten/ straighten out your back, that’ll help. Build your core strength.

Exactly

One of the most sensible things I’ve read on the internet was on the website of a custom frame builder. It basically said

“Before we spend several thousand welding tubes together we need to know exactly where you contact points will be and that you have been using them long enough to know that they will work. What we can do one you know where the contact points are is to move the things around relative to the contact points to give a sensible stem length etc…”

Core strength’ll fix this.

Anyway, can you wheelie it yet?

Just ride the bloody thing troll boy.

If you ride on the hoods most of time , the position of the brakes can make a difference between ‘comfortable’ and ‘awkward’ .
Most / all new bikes come with wrapped bars , when sometimes a rise of 1cm can make a difference to how it rides.

can someone explain what’s going on? – because it does sound like Hora wants a bigger bike as it’ll be smaller.

Hora; at 6’2″ ish, with a 33″ inseam, i’d suggest you’re exactly normally proportioned.

(says a man who’s 6’2″ ish, with a 36″ inseam)

First, I’d say there is no way of determining what’s right and wrong via this (admittedly excellent) medium.
Paradoxically though, ‘locked out’ arms can be as much a case of sub-optimal posture and a bike actually being too short as much as too long.
I would say see a reputable fitter before spending any more money on kit, if you’re in Yorks/Lancs I’d be happy to help: http://www.fit2ride.cc
If not, I would definitely experiment with different combinations of components on the existing frame before buying another.
Most people can ride two, or even three, sizes of the same frame using different saddle setback and stems.

Apologies for the shameless self promotion in that last post, by the way.

can someone explain what’s going on? – because it does sound like Hora wants a bigger bike as it’ll be smaller.

I don’t think even he can explain what’s going on, as usual.

We are talking about the man who is ‘convinced’ at comfortably over 6ft tall, riding a medium Santa Cruz, which is hardly regarded as roomy in the TT/Reach department is a good idea.

FWIW – looking at the geometry of your road bike, and being a whole half an inch taller than you, I would have bought the XL. But hey, breaking the habit of a lifetime and buying a bike the right size for you must be hard 😉

My money’s on the bike being pretty much right as is, but position all wrong.

After modern wide-barred, sit-up mountain bikes, the road bike positioning can feel strange – it took me a while to adjust – even after 18months I don’t settle into it automatically.

classic. 🙂

For me the oddest thing was, I have a shortish torso to leg length –

I bought a 50cm Bianchi when all the sites say I should be on a 52/53.

Now having ridden it for about 4 years, and stopped riding mountain bikes a year ago when my last one was stolen, I am beginning to find the 50 is too short in the top tube, and that my posture/body shape is slowly evolving to the racer from the mountain bike – In essence, I do now bend further than I did.

So I say, give it time to adapt.

I’d give yourself more time to adapt, tho I know stw’s 2 favourite pastimes are over thinking EVERYTHING and buying new stuff to solve any “problem”.

Skim skim skim…. arms locked out. Road bars have a load of positions, inner tops, outer tops, hoods, in the bend on the drops which one has your arms locked? No good waffling on about which stem you need 90/100/100 etc as you haven’t said one position could be miles away from another in bike fit.
Dont get core strength to fit the bike, get a bike to fit your core strength, generally known as the real world.

Why not put the shifter on your stem so you can reach it? That worked ok on your MTB didn’t it? 😯

I’ve got it
Aero Bars !
Get the long ones with the forearm pads and micro shifters on the tips.
Must be an extra 30cm reach up front available , just get a pointy helmet , some rubber over shoes and a skin suit and no one need ever know you bought the wrong bike
Just ride everywhere like you are on a 10mile TT , down the shops, to the pub , out across the hills. Just get on the areo bars , get the hammer down and grimace abit. Then in a few months buy youself a disc wheel off PX for the full effect.

tadaaa

Most / all new bikes come with wrapped bars , when sometimes a rise of 1cm can make a difference to how it rides.

I’ve never understood this. We all must have seen countless folk piddling about with the bar position to get the hoods in the right place.

Also arms locked can be because of being overstretched, but also from being too low, the ‘fashion’ for slamming the stem combined with core strengths that aren’t that of Sagans means your arms can be locked just to stop your body falling forward. Using up energy just sitting there.

Yes, Oldgit. Plus the reason they said go to the bigger frame probably wasn’t with ‘getting a longer top tube under him’ but more a case of ‘getting the frame with the longer head tube under him to lift him up’

Just looked at the geo. The effective tt is only 20 mm and the headtube length is a massive 25mm longer. That height up front (even with 20mm eff tt) should help.

It also shows your height at the upper limit of the large size. Having the longer torso you’d hope that the xl would be better. Are you getting a free swap?

Just looked at the geo. The effective tt is only 20 mm and the headtube length is a massive 25mm longer. That height up front (even with 20mm eff tt) should help

But it cheap and easy to raise the bars on the existing bike before going to the trouble of swapping frames

Although I think the real issue is that if you are use to a short top tube mountain bike with a short stem the drops on any road bike are going to feel along way away….

Never heard an inch called massive before.

Free swap? Trying a 90mm stem first that Ive bought from planetX. ‘Free’ means a 100mile round trip and a day off work.

Ok with the 90stem I can clearly see the front hub and the bike feels abit ‘short’. Should be Highish and long not short and high.

Effective top tube length on the large is 570mm. I’m 6’1″ and have 32″ inseem, so the same length torso as you do. I’ve ridden a good few bikes over the years and so reckon I’ve pretty much got my position sorted. With a 570mm tt and 25mm set-back on my seat i would use a 110mm stem. So depending on your seat position, and assuming you don’t have abnormally short arms then somewhere between 110 and 130mm should work.

Ok with the 90stem I can clearly see the front hub and the bike feels abit ‘short’. Should be Highish and long not short and high.

so as other have said on page 1, put the original stem back on in the flipped position and do more riding, you need to build your core muscles so you are using your hands to steer not prop you up

Ok with the 90stem I can clearly see the front hub

The bike will handle better with a proper length stem, and have better weight distribution over the front wheel.
if you are using a 90mm stem at over 6ft you either have very poor flexibility, are sitting on the bike like a MTB’er/Nodder or are riding the wrong size frame.