Fuel economy. And it’s not exactly ‘switched on’ in electrical or mechanical terms, as I understand it, it’s a sort of clutch system that means the front wheels aren’t driven unless the back ones are almost losing traction, kind of like a freewheel is only activated when you pedal.

It’s usually the front wheels driven on softroaders.

What I was getting at was: great, fit an auto thing so you’re only driving two wheels unless the car thinks you need four, but also put a 5p button there so that I, the driver, who has eyes, can activate it manually if I deem it to be required.

I don’t think it’s activated electrically, so you’d have to install an electric activator and a load of gubbins to force it to override, so it’d cost a lot more than 5p for the switch.

In the same way that having a lever to switch from SS to fixie on your bike would be a lot more difficult than fitting a lever.

I could be wrong though.

EDIT I do seem to be wrong, in fact, googling it.

EDIT #2 Ah, I may be accidentally right – I was thinking of the Haldex system used in many cars, which is in fact electronicall activated, but Honda CRVs up to 2012 use their own system which is in fact internally automatic and is activated by the differental speed of two hydraulic pumps:

http://www.awdwiki.com/en/honda/

the issue is

morons like to drive around with “4×4” engaged when its not needed because its a 4×4 isnt it …..

then you get wind up in the transmission and broken diffs ,half shafts and gear boxes.

remove that user input and it stops them being broken

Then theres the matter of many folk dont actually know how to engage and disengage diff lock and that just because the levers in 2wd or open diff doesnt actually mean that your diff isnt still locked.

I prefer to have control much better to know your locked and in low for hill descent than relying on the traction control to kick in only to find out an ABS sensor has failed when your carreering down the hill backwards 😀

my soft roaders RWD till i ask it not to be so its great fun on private ground.

molgrips, not all haldex systems are electronic.

I prefer to have control much better to know your locked and in low for hill descent than relying on the traction control to kick in only to find out an ABS sensor has failed when your carreering down the hill backwards

That’s why generally cars and crossover types have AWD or part-time, and 4x4s intended for actual off-road use have manual diff locks and 4×4.

why does that make it any different ?

roads go downhill too.

We’re now on our second – great cars, happy on everything from autobahns to green lanes and tough with it. If you’ve got your own oil well, get the turbo XT version which will give an Evo a run for its money.

With Foresters, and Subaru’s in general, just buy the turbo one. The N/A ones only get 2-3 mpg better economy but have a lot less power. Economy on all versions is poor but at least you feel like you can understand where all the fuel went in the turbos, plus they give basically the same economy driven hard as gently, so you might as well…

roads go downhill too.

Not very often steeply enough to cause that kind of issue though. Look at it from the manufacturer’s point of view – most people will want to keep it simple, so they usually offer just the one car with all the control.

A3 tdi Quattro sport. I have one, it’s great.

Our Forester has been brilliant in the harsh winters over here. Would buy another quite happily.

you can understand where all the fuel went in the turbos, plus they give basically the same economy driven hard as gently, so you might as well…

ha ha – if only that was true!! I remember when I had my Impreza, I used to be able to *just* get from work to Carlisle Tesco on a full tank of 98 and then burn best part of another between there and Peebles 😉

Rachel

We went from a 2.0 NA Forester to a 2.5 turbo – huge difference in performance, like driving a sports car. Trying to persuade Mrs Rusty not to view tyres, brakes and clutches as consumables though – she drives it very hard.

then you get wind up in the transmission and broken diffs ,half shafts and gear boxes.

Only if you’ve locked the centre diff. Plenty cars work in 4×4 with open diffs until required, from imprezzas through to defenders.

That’s why generally cars and crossover types have AWD or part-time, and 4x4s intended for actual off-road use have manual diff locks and 4×4.

My 4×4 doesn’t, and whilst the electronics do a remarkable job (and lock the diff in certain modes), I’d be much happier just having a button, or at leas an indicator on the dash to show the diff is locked

Have a look for the W8 tdi passat estate on Ebay, rare, good spec and 4motion..

I am aware of tht – your aware of that

Not all of the great wide public are.

Its almost a weekly topic on landyzone ” i was driving round on the roads with my diff lock in and it made a loud noise.

Only acceptable to drive home on hard surfaces with centre diff engaged when either your prop / diff or one of the rear half shafts are in the boot 🙂

Much less hassle for manufacturers to fire in automatic diffs

ha ha – if only that was true!! I remember when I had my Impreza, I used to be able to *just* get from work to Carlisle Tesco on a full tank of 98 and then burn best part of another between there and Peebles

Rachel
O.K, I’ll concede, a continuous gentle cruise gets you just into the 30s, but over about 100,00 miles in my two turbo Imprezas I basically found I got 20 in town, maybe 22 on average and 25 on longer trips regardless of driving style. I could get 30 on a trip from Aberdeen to Aviemore and back if I drove so as to try and not wake up a sleeping passenger but there was no difference between driving normally with my wife in the car and driving it like I’d stolen it with a mate to go MTBing somewhere, 25mpg either way. My conclusion was that I wasn’t paying the rest of the running costs to baby 30mpg out of it, so I might as well fully extend it when there was the chance.
My wife’s N/A Forester was too big and non aerodynamic to manage the 30mpg cruise and just returned 20-22 all the time but had less than half the power…

I was looking at a 2.5i Outback, maybe need to up the poke 🙂

Unfortunately I don’t think there was ever a turbo Outback, even in Japan.

I’m very pleased with my Outback. Spacious, comfortable, excellent load lugger… Does all I wanted.

Also, as it’s the 2l diesel fuel consumption is a bit more sensible than the petrol versions. Quoted combined is 44.1 mpg, for my driving, which doesn’t include many short journeys, I get at least that on most tanks.

One of the major selling points for me over the competition was interior space, especially rear seat leg room as most of my friends and family are tall. I’m 6’2 and with the drivers seat all the way back I can sit comfortably in the rear.

Blimey!

A Jag X type estate 2wd 2.0 sport diesel can be had for 3k, mid 40’s mpg and a bike car/motorway chugger – loads on autotrader.

*gets excited*

So er, what could be wrong on an x type with 100k miles with an MOT?

Anyone want to buy a ’52 plate 330i? 🙂

what could be wrong on an x type with 100k miles with an MOT?

Through-flow ventilated floors and sills?

Not 4×4 (only the 2.5 and 3.0 v6 was afaik)

What about an Alfa 159 2.4 Q4?

Oh, they have rust issues? (Not worried about 4×4).

Ohhh yes. They’re a mondeo in a floppy hat and shades. Ford program them to dissolve at 7 yrs, 2 months and three days old.

What’s wrong with being am up-specced mondeo? They are good cars, aren’t they?

Another one for Subaru Legacy. Driven a couple including the old ones and they seem good value at high mileage/age.

What’s wrong with being am up-specced mondeo? They are good cars, aren’t they

Yes, but Fords are terrible for rusting, or at least the 6 year old and over ones are.

Milkie – Member
Audi S4, Quattro, V8! OMG! OMG! Perfect biking car!?
POSTED 6 HOURS AGO # REPORT-POST

Actually, the 3.0TDI is better in the real world. The S4 is great but it does feel it when it is loaded. The 233PS diesel drives the same empty or fully loaded – it pulls like a train!

For road use – even on poor roads in bad conditions, there is no need for permanent 4 wheel drive. There is also a lot of snobbishness regarding Haldex 4 wheel drive systems. They work really, really well.

Through-flow ventilated floors and sills?

Yep, the one I bought lasted a year – but had to be careful where I put a jack on the sills as the n/s jacking point moved without the car moving… 😯

But tbh, bought for £1100, sold for £400 as an MOT failure – cheap 12k of luxury (and safe winter miles with the AWD) miles.

head gaskets go on the older 2.5 Outbacks.

Mine did. 🙁

2.0 turbo Forester, ace! regret selling mine the most of any car. More than my old Skyline!

Have a look for the W8 tdi passat estate on Ebay, rare, good spec and 4motion..

I thought the W8 was a petrol engine? Very rare still and 4 motion.
Wasn’t aware of a diesel version.

The Outback’s the one I sometimes still regret not getting… Good boot, nice to drive, all that good stuff. But the good engines were hard to find and they go through fuel like I go through haribos.

FWIW I’ve put my scabby mondeo up and down things most folks would be afraid to drive a 4×4 up, with its snow boots on… Turns out scabbiness and pre-dentedness is more useful offroad than the extra drive, means I’m not afraid to drive it 😉

Diesel x type isn’t awd. Only 2.5 & 3.0 petrol.

Another bike friendly car buying dream crushed. I’d better come terms that I’m going to end up with an Audi A4 Avant. 😐

Another bike friendly car buying dream crushed. I’d better come terms that I’m going to end up with an Audi A4 Avant.

Why? Pretty much any decently sized car I’ll fit a bike in 🙂

/end of thread.

The bike on the back seat routine works much better with a bike bag btw. Done that dozens of times.

Pretty much any decently sized car I’ll fit a bike in

Too right: I can get two bikes, a weekend’s worth of camping gear and a shed load of beer in the back of the 500!

Another bike friendly car buying dream crushed. I’d better come terms that I’m going to end up with an Audi A4 Avant.

Audi a4 avant all road, would be a good purchase.

Too right: I can get two bikes, a weekend’s worth of camping gear and a shed load of beer in the back of the 500!

What is your technique?
I’ve tried getting a bike into my Mums 500 and failed. Without removing wheels and handlebars it looked impossible.

Of course you reemove wheels. Is that not standard procedure?