Mavs to Revs

Thinking of changing from my DUC32's to a set of 140mm Revs on my Whyte 46. A couple of questions – am I going to notice 10mm less travel? (A – C difference is only a few mm so not worried about that).
And am I going to miss the lock down to 100mm that I have on the DUC's for climbing? (Will probably look for a used set of U-turn 140`s)
Ta for your advice.

Will you miss the 10mm? Depends on the kind of riding you do… Yes/No/Maybe I'm afraid! Sorry I can't be any more specific, but too much depends on the setup. Mav's are VERY active forks, Rev's still very active but not quite so if you get me. You might notice that more than the travel…

Will you miss the lockdown to 100mm? Again, yes/no/maybe. Do you use it much? I barely use it on my Mav's, so wouldn't miss it, but I suspect if you do use it you might miss it as lowering the front by 50mm for climbing is quite a difference.

Why specifically 140mm revs, if you like the 150mm travel why not get a set of 150mm revs?

It's a shame you can't test the DUC32s with 120mm travel but the logical thing to do in the meantime is to just try some climbing at full length and see how it feels. Some bikes will miss it a lot, others won't, just depends.

Thanks for your input guys. I'm not a big hitter so don't always need 150mm of tavel, but I do use the lock down on steeper climbs. And why 140mm Revs – cos I'm looking at 2nd hand (cost wise) and can't see a set of 2010 150mm forks coming up at a decent price. I'll try climbing without the lockout and see how I get on.

What's wrong with the LO on Revs?
I'm confused.

What's wrong with the LO on Revs?

Mavericks lock DOWN not OUT… IMO a MUCH better lockout system as it usefully lowers the front of the bike to help with climbing, whereas IMO a conventional lockout will hinder not help climbing because it leaves the front end too high. Lockouts are only any use for riding road miles IMO, whereas a lockdown is pretty useful for when you need to get up a very steep climb.

had a 46 with duc's. went to a e120 with r120's = did'nt track as well due to std quick release skewersI beleive. changed to rev's with maxle much better, but prefer the duc's, dont know why or if its just a case of never being happy!

I went from Mavs to 140mm (u-turn) Pikes a few years ago. I found the Pikes much better, not least in stiffness. But then, my Mavs were awful and kept breaking & leaking.

Mavericks lock DOWN not OUT… IMO a MUCH better lockout system as it usefully lowers the front of the bike to help with climbing, whereas IMO a conventional lockout will hinder not help climbing because it leaves the front end too high. Lockouts are only any use for riding road miles IMO, whereas a lockdown is pretty useful for when you need to get up a very steep climb.

Ah, that's pretty clever.
Would be interesting to see whether most people find LO a help or hinderance when climbing. Personally I always LO but only 'cos it's there.

There are used 2010 Revs floating around sub £300 now which isn't much more than I sold my 09s for… Worth a try anyway. (I paid £300 for a top-of-the-range Team U-turn 3 months ago)

'Scuse my ignorance, but on a RS U-turn fork how easy/quick is it to reduce the travel? Could it be done on the fly and locked out or is it more of a faff than that?

I've used the U-turn on the fly, takes a few complete turns to get the 30mm change though – I'll go and count just now…..

OK, seems to take 2 turns per 10mm and you can't do it when lock out.

It's easy enough to do but wouldn't wanna do it while riding.
It's a stop, get-off, twist, get back on and go affair.

I do it on the move all the time, it's no harder to do than switching a lockout on and off.