andybrad
Full Member

as for t handles. Again im unsure of why? they restrict movement. look nice though.

Lots of reach, you can get them into places that you can’t other tools. And they’re very fast in use- doing say 6 bike brake disc bolts with a T-handled T25 is so quick.

bikerevivesheffield
Full Member

So wera hex keys ftw?

I think I’m the odd one out, I don’t really like my Weras. The hex-plus works great when it works but on smaller and lower quality bolts especially I’d rather just have a good quality hexagonal end. (Wera do make these too, but they’re harder to find, and a bit pricey imo)

I have a really nice set of Inbus keys, I love ’em but I can’t argue they’re a good buy, too expensive. They’re no better in use than the much cheaper Teng ones I use day to day

For workshop use I would 100% get a good set of P- or T- handled Allen keys. I’ve got Bondhus T-handled ones which are still great after a decade of use. They’re much easier to grab and more ergonomic to use.

You’ll also want some decent L- shaped ones for those hard-to-reach bolts.

I’ve never really used the Knippex-style pipe wrench things on a bike. I’d be worried if a bike workshop had those tools handy tbh.

@Superficial

Your concern about seeing the plier wrench in a bike shop makes me wonder if you’ve used one at all?

Those Knipex pliers are brilliant, you can’t compare them to molegrips which are just for holding stuff really tight and normally cause damage. I use them all the time at work (aviation) and they definitely don’t damage the nut if used correctly. The only time I’ve used mine on the bike is fork top cap removal as I don’t have a suitable socket for mine.
Just make sure you get the metric ones if you’re using them on your bike…

Your concern about seeing the plier wrench in a bike shop makes me wonder if you’ve used one at all?

It’d be weird for me to comment if I hadn’t?

IMO they’re in the same category as hammers and easy-outs. Useful to have around but ideally to be avoided when bike spannering. Keep them under the workbench and leave them there unless you really need them.

I personally wouldn’t use them on my forks (^^^) although you do you. But I’d be upset if a bike shop used them in lieu of the proper tools.

I’ve probably had the top cap off about 5 times and there isn’t a mark on it, obviously if I had the appropriate ground down socket I’d use that, but I don’t…

Mine get used a lot for various things. The big ones (300mm) are great for leverage, and the jaws lock in place with minimal pressure on the grips.

The benefit of the parallel push and the leverage means you can bend stuff with them too. A flat tool sitting parallel with a rim can be used to steady one side of the jaw while you use the other to push a dent straight. Much safer than the mole grip method of gripping and bending.

The 125mm set are great to carry instead of Leatherman pliers, and I’m also looking at a 100mm set of Knipex Cobra water pump pliers for the most annoying little jobs.

They won’t marr happybiker because they are parallel push
Most people on here slagging them off have no idea what the actually do .
Look in any pro mechanics box at races you’ll see a set of those

I imagine people poo-pooing the Knipex plier-wrench often haven’t used them.

I’ve got a set of nice open and closed end wratchet spanners, but the Knipex is great for jobs where you can’t get a spanner in as easily.

Also for truing rotors, imperial/odd sized nuts, etc.

The fact they adjust outwards in fixed steps, and then move parallel to grip means you don’t get the slippage you would with a normal adjustable.

Not a replacement for a good set of spanners, but definitely a complimentary tool to have.

Knipex and PBSwiss FTW.

Along with some Lidl tools?

They work well for the amount of times I use them.
The hex, torq and Knipex get a lot of use. I’d be pissing money away if I bought Abby Tools chain tool, bottom bracket tool and the like. Put the money where it is justified.