Gravel wheels, is two sets daft?

I am asking as a gravel virgin.

I am soon hopefully going to push the button on a Fairlight secan. This will be to replace my ancient px road bike. I am no roady but do do day rides.

I think I want two sets of wheels and tyres, one for road duties and one for full on gravel.

The secan comes with hope 20five, relatively narrow, so I was thinking get them in 700c and be my road wheels.

I think I will want a second set, so do I get 650b or 700 in something wider like a dt Swiss 1600. The secan can take 50mm in 700c, slightly wider in 650b. My instinct is to get a 700c but wider rim

What are the collectives thoughts and reccomendations please?

I think it makes lots of sense.

My gravel bike is setup slight less ‘fast’ than most. I have 27.5 wheels which now have 2.1″ mezcals on them and 700c with 40mm G one overland. The 27.5 wheels do most rides in mostly off road and estate road rides. The 700c wheels also have a hub dynamo and turn it into a long distance bikepacker for mostly road and bits of easier off road rides. Both setups are pretty heavy and slow. I’ve got a separate road bike for road biking. But I can see that similar thinking could makes a more than passibly quick enough road bike and a very competent gravel biker.

Your only decision is what to do with the cassette. Do you have the same cassette swapped between wheels or separate cassettes. The latter makes lots of sense with preferred ratios for different modes. The downside is if the wear is not even and meshing starts to be a problem. If you don’t let your chain get too warm it’s probably a non issue.

I’ve got a Secan, lovely bike, bought mine as a frameset and built it with 2x GRX, definitely get the 700c wheels for your road duties, I did manage to get a set of Prime wheels super cheap for gravel tyres but have not used them in anger yet due to the weather!

I have a set of GR1600 wheels on my crux with 42mm pathfinders. Have a second set of wheels (that came off my Aethos) with 35mm mondo sworks tyres on.

Crux is for commutting and winter rides (have a set of guards that go on)

IMO if I didn’t have the space for two road bikes, the aethos would go and I’d put roval alpinists on the crux for summer rides.

I’ve got a Secan and have 3 sets of wheels for it:

• Over winter – Mason X Hunt 4 Seasons with 32mm  Panaracer Gravelkings, 11-32 cassette,
• Nicer weather – Parcours Strade with tubeless 32mm Conti GP5000S TR (which to be honest I’ve mostly been using) use the same 11-32 cassette as above.
• Gravel – Hunt Gravel X Wide with 42mm 700c WTB Resolutes, got a 11-40t cassette which I use with a Wolftooth roadlink and a different (slightly longer) chain.

I’ve not tried with wider gravel tyres, mine’s the version before the current one so I think you can run wider tyres with the latest version. I fine the 42mm Resolutes fine for most gravel stuff though.

Eminently sensible if you genuinely want to use it as a pure road bike sometimes and gravel others.

I only have one wheelset dedicated for gravel, but I went wider rims and 700c as I like that rolling speed and couldn’t get my head around going smaller than my MTB wheels.

Absolutely not. When I was using my VN Amazon as my gravel bike I actually had threee sets of wheels/tyres.

• 650×47 for rougher conditions
• 700×40 Nanos for smooth gravel/mixed terrain
• 700×28 GP4Seasons for road touring

I’ve since bought a full-time gravel bike though and decided that 650×47 was the best option for me most of the time.

Perfect sense. In fact I got spare wheels for my commuter, the FS bike and the Cross (old gravel bike).

I even picked up a ‘used’ CX bike last year because I have spare wheels. Wheelset with gravel tyres and a wheelset with road. The CX bike will take clip on guards that my vintage road bikes won’t, and spares are easier to get subjecting it to winter weather. I also use it as my climbing bike with 34×34 bottom gear.

One thing to note is some freehubs aren’t exactly aligned with another manufacturer, so may be a fraction of a mm out, so this can mess with indexing. I bought a set of different spacers so I could fine tune the spacer next to the hub to achieve the same cassette position – we’re talking like 0.2mm difference.

I can just swap ang go now.

FS has normal do it all wheels and grippy tyres, and a cheaper set with XC type tyres. Commuter has slicks, and a set of wheels with winter tyres (studs).

Following with interest as I’m contemplating some road wheels for my gravel bike. I wouldn’t go 650b for gravel, 50mm should be plenty for most riding so you could easily use the Hopes for gravel or road. Maybe think about your budget and let that lead you, eg if your budget will allow for lighter/stiffer wheels they might be better for road?

Only if you want to end up building another bike around the second set of wheels.

I did it decades ago but one set just sat there pretty much unused.

However, if you do, make life easier by matching hubs for disc brakes and cassettes for shifting.

Two sets here, one set with gravel tyres and a hunt alloy aero set for road duties. That’s on an escapade which is still heavy even with the relatively light hunts. It’s definitely faster with the road set fitted.

Only 2 sets? 😉

I’ve 2 sets for mine, a cheap Fulcrum set it came with that I have run tubed slicks on and a set of JRA Monitors set up tubeless with 50c Gravelkings on – both 700’s.  I’ve 2 sets of rotors but do swap the cassette over.

I did though buy a s/h endurance road bike before Christmas, with the intention of using that for road rides, but, I just can’t get comfortable on it and now I’m going to sell it and two options:

• carbon road wheels running 32c GP5000’s tubeless for the gravelbike, or
• more relaxed geometry road bike, looking at the Fairlight Stael with the ‘T’ headtube

I’ve been considering having four sets: road, gravel, touring, and “rough gravel”/”pretend mtb”

… possibly winter road, too.

I do exactly this with my v1 Secan. 650b wheels with 42c gravel tyres and 700c wheels with 32mm road tyres. Got identical cassettes and discs on them. Both are from Hunt and swapping them over is quick and painless.

Three or four sets, I hadn’t thought of that!

But getting the same hub is a really good call.

First things first I need to get the bike ordered. Going to sit on a mates secan first but my head has pretty well made the decision.

I’m planning to do this for my 29er and I tried it but since the wheels and discs were so different (one was centrelock one was 6 bolt) the disc was every so slightly out – a fraction of a mm but it was enough to cause some rub.  So when I try again I’ll see if I can get some kind of shim in the 6-bolt ones.

I have 3 sets of wheels (all hunts) that I can swap in.

I have two superdura 4 seasons, one has 32mm gp5000AW on, one 47mm byways.

32s stay on my road bike unless it’s broken, 47s stay on gravel bike unless it’s on “gnarly” duty when it gets gravel wide carbon rim set with schwalbe ultrabite 50mm.

Using one of those little disk brake spacers makes a quick adjustment for minor hub width discrepancies a doddle.

Disc brake spacers

You can set up the wheels using disc shims so that you don’t have to adjust anything.

You can also do a similar thing with the cassette so that you don’t need to adjust cable tension either.

I debated this when I got my Camino & ended up just getting 700c. In the back of my mind I just knew I wouldn’t bother swapping that often & wouldn’t want the faff of swapping the cassette, so when I did eventually swap the chain would skip & the whole thing would be more faff that it’s worth.

I would be interested to try 650b on them at some point.

I got the same hubs (Hope) on both my wheelsets so they would swap easily. I don’t bother swapping the cassette but I’m sure the day will come when one is worn more than the other and the chain will start skipping.

I have some 700×35 for road (but might go thinner) and 650×47 for off road. Works well so far.

I originally built my Tripster with 2 sets of wheels – Mavic Ksyrium Pro and Mavic Allroad Pro (I was feeling flush) – the idea being that same brand hubs would mean no faffing with brake adjustment or gears when I swapped. It worked perfectly for 4-5 years until one of the Allroads died and I couldn’t afford to replace like-for-like. Brakes do need a tiny adjustment when I swap over now. But the 2 sets definitely come in useful. Especially when you’re about to ride to work and find a puncture. (happened once)

Absolutely not, great shout!

To anyone contemplating getting a road or gravel bike this is usually my recommendation: two sets of wheels if budget allows. They are such versatile bikes that having the option either way is a nice position to be in.

My “gravel” bike doubles up as a cross bike that gets raced, but also a back-up road bike. For the latter there’s something fun about smashing it along the road with 40c odd slicks on 👌😁

Its not daft but for me it depends alot on you really and your preferences. Also on how ‘gravelly’ you want to ride and how fast you want to go on the road. I got a gravel bike and rode 35mm g one tyres and kept the road bike, but found I never took the road bike out as I found the 700×35 great on tbe road (so flogged the road bike). Ive since moved up to 40s and they’re fine for me. I find it fine both road and on gravel. Often thought about 650 wheels for it, but if I was riding that I’d probably take tbe hardtail out. So I’d probably say, try it on 700s on and off road. It might surprise you how good it is.

If you’re swapping cassettes I’d maybe keep a spare lockring handy, I’ve had the threads go on one before, no doubt due to ham-fistedness but having a spare handy would have saved my ride that day.

I’m pondering this very subject at the moment.

Have a Ribble Ti CGR and bought it with 700c wheels and 40mm G-One tyres. I was living in Germany at the time and the majority of the gravel paths around where I lived are super smooth.

Having spent five months in Spain last year and having been in Italy since September I’ve come to the conclusion I want bigger tyres on the bike. That means 650b. Paths here in Italy are generally a lot rougher than in Germany, and I’m not including the Strada Bianche as they’re generally smooth AF.

Last two rides I managed to snakebite on the front.

Really not fussed about road bike-esque efficiency. Just want a little more freedom as to where I ride… Although I could stick some slicks in the 700c wheels as I’ve found a new adrenaline source is bombing down asphalt at 60kmh.

Going to look for a set of 650b wheels and some chunkier tyres as and when.

I bought a set of Hunt Carbon 40 road wheels to complement the OE 40mm 700c carbon gravel wheels on my Revolt. Both set up tubeless.

I’ve got a 105 11-34 cassette on each wheelset, no issues experienced so far, the GRX ratios are fine for my regular road rides.

The Revolt came with fast rolling tyres and doesn’t feel draggy to ride on the road but the dedicated road wheels are a smidge lighter and just a bit nicer to ride on tarmac.

Have contemplated a set of 650b wheels as well for more gnarly gravel and mud but have so far managed fine on the 40mm and I’ve a light XC bike for rougher stuff.

I can say confidently no regrets on 2 wheel sets here

Both are built on hope pro 4 hubs with 6 bolt rotors. Zero issues charging between sets. Each wheel keeps the save cassette. Again zero problems several chains in

I should really have bought a secan years ago. But the xl has 72.5 degree head angle and in sure that’s seems too steep for me. I could of course be wrong or it might just be me as I don’t run that long a stem for a gravel bike

However, if you do, make life easier by matching hubs for disc brakes and cassettes for shifting.

This! ^^

You can shim disc rotors out, or you can loosen, adjust and retighten calipers each time you swap the wheels but it’s easier to get two identical wheels, or at least 2 sets of wheels with the same hubs, even if built onto different rims.

You can be a bit more variable on the cassette but if you go for one wide range like 11-42 for gravel and one narrow like 11-30 for road, you’ll need a different length chain for each one and probably to adjust the b-tension screw on the mech each time.

Otherwise two sets of wheels is spot on.

Secan owner here too.

Hope 700c with nanos for winter

650 Ryan builds wheels DT Swiss with 47mm cannonballs for summer.

I absolutely love it on 650s. Straight swop no messing around 👌

I’ve got 3 sets; summer road, winter road and gravel. I have each set fully kitted out with rotors and cassettes. The only issue is the rotor position. Buy some rotor shims to adjust the position of the rotors so none of them rub. All mine are DT Swiss hubs but there is still a small difference, it’s possibly the rotors that are out of tolerance rather than the hubs but shims sort it out whatever.

Depends if going fast on the road is a priority (fast, as in to keep with on a road group ride).  If so then definitely get a second set of wheels fitted with road tyres.

Absolutely, just done exactly this.
Different hubs shimmed with those disk two hole washers. Turned out two thickness is perfect.

40mm Hutchinson Touareg – gravel
35mm GP5000 AS – road.

Dumb question… If a gravel bike frame says it takes 650b then does that mean it’ll take 27.5?

I’ve some DT Swiss XM1501 27.5 wheels (25mm id) that are lovely but rarely used – I might just need different dt fittings to change from boost, though not sure if there is a standard for cassette and rotor spacings.

Dumb question… If a gravel bike frame says it takes 650b then does that mean it’ll take 27.5?

Yep. 650b is the old name for the wheel size standard. 27.5 is a stupid modern affectation to making it sound half way between 26″ and 29″ (which isn’t actually 29″).

It makes a lot of sense, I just didn’t use it! I had two sets of 700c, one for road tyres, one for gravel or cross tyres. Spaced out the rotors etc but didn’t have two cassettes.

For me, the amount I was swapping between them and the relative ratios of faff swapping tyres vs cassette- I’ve gone back to a single set. To be honest I barely change the tyres these days either- I’ve a set that I don’t hate on road and are adequate for the muddy tracks (rather than trails) of the North Downs so i leave them on. Embrace the ‘jack of all, master of none’ gravel approach.

Caveat to that- the big 650s a Secan can take might pitch me back to two sets.

I’d say get one wheelset to start with, if you find yourself changing tyres regularly get another but go the whole hog and have two cassettes. If the wear doesn’t match you’re probably not swapping often enough!

I have a Fairlight Secan, which I’ve had for 5 years and use 3 set of wheels:

1. VEL Carbon 650b gravel wheels with DT Swiss 240 hubs, shod with tubeless Continental Race King 2.2in tyre. This is my do it all wheelset. Such big, but fast tyres on a  gravel bike are a real hoot to ride, covering so may bases. The Racekings have a rolling resistance better than many gravel tyres.

2. DT Swiss GR1600 that are shod with either 38mm Gravelking SKs (summer) or EXTs(winter) where there is a lot of road riding

3. Hunt gravel 650b X- mason with either Vittora Barzo 2.25in for muddy off-road or Gravelking slicks 1.9in for comfy on-road.

Really just need the first 2, but I wouldn’t get anything selling the Hunts so might as well give them a niche use.

I’ve just ordered a faran, I have a set of Hunt wheels that I intend to use as a second set with some 35mm slicks. Sounds like I’ll need some shims and a feeler guage…

Two sets here for my Camino. 700c with 38mm slicks for the road and the odd bit of towpath, and 650b with 42mm WTB Resolutes for rougher stuff. I’ve got two cassettes but only one set of rotors, they’re Centrelock though so a couple of minutes to change.

I’m happy with that setup, but if I were doing it again I’d go wider than the Resolutes, and maybe a little narrower on the slicks.

Sort of. The upsides seem obvious but:

The gravel tyres aren’t that draggy. Unless you’re already the slowest person in your group it won’t be enough to make you slower than anyone else.

It’s rubbish in winter because you still won’t have propper mudguards unless you take those on and off too. And propper mudguards are the critical bit in making winter road rides bearable, not half bodged half-length gravel mudguards that only protect your back.

I “winter road biked” my SSCX/gravel bike a few years ago and haven’t turned it back. It does both equally well but it’s not both bikes at once.