Tamiya and other R/C vehicles (not just for Christmas)

Weeksy, pm sent.

@reluctantjumper

If you are 100% sure that there isn’t an assembly error on your part, then as a last resort the solution would be to fit gears with bigger teeth than the originals. get some 32dp gears if you haven’t already.

Theres someone on ebay that sells them for the Bugsta. Much more expensive than the standard gears though, especially if you go for the all steel ones (which appear to be sold out at the moment.) They will still self destruct if the mesh is too far out or the chassis is too flexible, but give more margin for error.

link to gears

@Pepper, get your Optima running again. I did and I’ve been enjoying the rebuild and running it around. Either way, we need pictures (I think mine is a few pages back)

@wardee – cheers for that link, that might be the final option if I can’t get the standard setup to last. There’s got to be something amiss but I can’t find it, maybe chassis flex is the answer but if I twist it as hard as I can when stationary the gears don’t move at all.

Made a start with the XV01 Lancia. Built the very nice oil filled diffs:

Then realised the kit comes with machine screws rather than self tapping so all the holes need to be tappeed, not a normal cutting tap but specifically a roll tap.

Then realised it’s too small to fit into my tap wrench.

Finally all here and can continue:

Any update on the XV01 build? I’ve ordered a new shell and wheels for the TT02, going to do a road shell for running as the rally shell is a little worse for wear now.

Also took the Bugsta out for a run this afternoon to test them new spur and slipper clutch assembly. Seems to work fine as I’ve also turned down the initial pinch on the ESC to minimum, see if that helps. It was pretty vicious out of the box anyway so makes it easier to drive. Did have another issue though, first small jump and it snapped the suspension mount on the front!

got a spare set of mounts that I’ve now fitted but I’m getting fed up of it breaking almost every time I take it out. Will give it another chance then I may sell it on and get something a bit more robust.

Pressed the buy button on a Gmade GS02 crawler, arrives tomorrow. Also had a xv01 Lancia in the basket but it went out of stock in my weeks dithering time on adding to the basket. Probably for the best, although I did add another brushless motor for the DT03. Had said I was done with them but Torque Tuned just not as much fun after the first attempt at brushless. Went for a less mental one though, so should be nice compromise, plus it’s sensored this time so will work with standard esc.
Also finished my Baja Beetle shell to go on DT03. A big rough paint wise, but pretty nice from a distance. Will post pics when I have new motor fitted.

Well, the XV01 build is slow as I’m only doing about half an hour a day. It also seems like the only place you can get the hop up parts from is Hong Kong.

The hop up pulleys did turn up after 2 weeks. The standard stock plastic ones are actually OK. It’s the plastic spacers between the pulley and the drive / driven gear that cause the problem. I could have bought just the aluminium spacers but I found getting aluminium spacers that particular size is more expensive then buying the full hop up set:

The next essential hop up I am waiting for are the suspension mounts. I am not happy to go any further without having these turn up. I can definitely see why they are needed once I started the build. The problem apparently is the lower arms pops out of the plastic mounts on a moderate crash which these mounts should prevent. That’s definitely not something that can be fixed in the field as to get the lower arm back in, it’s front and rear gearboxes off which mean having to reset the drive belt tension as well. It’s nearly a month since I ordered these, I was thinking they must be lost, then got a text this morning from Royal Mail saying they are now in the UK so should have these soon. This is as far as I got for now with the chassis:

Did cracked on with the shell while I wait for the mounts though. I think it will take me a while to do the decals.

What’s a good online shop for these?

I had a few Schumachers and Tamiyas back in the day but all my radio gear and batteries are out of date now

modelsport.co.uk is the default

People seem to speak highly of tamico.de but not actually tried them yet.

To be honest, so much is hard to get due to stock shortages that’s is more a case of “anywhere you can find stock of what you want” at the mo. So a lot of ferreting through eBay and deciding whether to risk that purchase from Hong Kong.

@reluctantjumper – I have a mate with FTX stuff, it’s good value stuff and when running is great, but he’s definitely found it to be not very robust

The challenge is the robust stuff is more pricey initially. But hopefully less breakages so overall might even out after a while

What brands are considered the most robust?

benp1 – that’s what I’m thinking too. The Bugsta is at the bottom end of the price range for it’s type so costs have obviously been saved by making it slightly fragile. Traxxas and Arrma cars seem to withstand a lot more abuse going by YouTube videos I’ve seen so if I get fully fed up with it I might take the plunge and get something new in the higher price ranges. Saying that though I took the Bugsta out to a local park today and it flew around perfectly, only the third time it’s done that since I got it! Went through 3 batteries in just over an hour with me grinning like a little boy. Might give it another chance as when it does run well it’s such a laugh.

What brands are considered the most robust?

As above, Traxxas and Arrma were the two that come to mind immediately.

I’d second Traxxas for robustness. I had both a Rustler and Slash in the past. Some of the crashes were spectacular and I can’t remember breaking anything. The guy in the shop actually showed me how much they flex, which stops them snapping bits. There are also good hop ups and tips for maintaining that flex. He showed me a HPi that just creaked and looked brittle in comparison. I’d have Traxxas again if I had the cash. The shop itself actually looked like it sold far more HPI which was telling that he didn’t actually back that brand.

My Team Associated MT10 has had a good few end-over-ends and jumps, nothing has broken yet. Only issue would be hitting a tree full on I guess but I’m happy with it’s strength so far.

That Team Associated seems very robustly built, Armma as well.

Anything with a price tag of £400 is usually going to be robust. Very big generalisation but spending £150-250 is going to get you something fun and fast, but spending more often gets you the component quality and robustness to go with it

The guy in the shop actually showed me how much they flex, which stops them snapping bits. There are also good hop ups and tips for maintaining that flex.

I’ve noticed that a lot of people think that the whole chassis need to be rigid, fitting alloy girders as braces and steel chassis plates only to have them bend all the time.

can you noy get upgraded alu replacement parts for the FTX?

Oh my:

https://tamico.de/Tamiya-58682-Audi-V8-Touring-TT-02-Kit

There was an IMSA version floating around earlier in the year, looked mental!

@mogrim – you can for the suspension mounts but it just means you rip the pin out of the arm instead or crack the chassis. You’re meant to have a simple to replace weak point that protects the rest of the car in a crash, remove that and you just move the problem elsewhere. I’d rather replace a £3 mount every few runs than whole arms or a chassis at higher cost. It just seems it has a few weak points that are just too weak for what the car can do.

@reluctantjumper not my question! 🙂

Whoops 😊

Taking the Avante build very slowly.
Very happy with the finish on the body (not that it shows very well in photos) – did it “properly” and backed the blue with silver. Decal on top of the drivers helmet is shocking but happy with him otherwise. Gearboxes and motor mounting done, suspension arms next.

I recently completed an R35 Drift shell.

View this post on Instagram

Completed my R35 @kawabata.jp replica build, taken since March to get the time to piece it together. Made up with how it’s turned out. Track time tonight! @zeromaxrc for the graphics. @fusedrc for the cage. #rc #rcdrift #mstrmx #drift #driftessex #skids #rchobby #mstdrift #nissanr35 #rcworkshop #driftgarage #carpetdrift #speedhunters #sdrc #slidedynamicsrc #rcdrifter #customrc #eastcoastrc #yokomo #fusedrc #rollcage #greddy #trust #kawabata #zeromaxrc

A post shared by Andy Large (@andy_getting_rc) on Aug 6, 2020 at 10:05pm PDT

The slow boat from China finally arrived…which meant I could paint my Monte Impreza.

While waiting for the remaining hop ups to turn up from Hong Kong for the XV01 build, did the shell. For some reason, soapy water wouldn’t let the decal slide on this particular shell / decal set so I had a difficult time getting the creases / bubbles out, heat gun did help a bit but the larger decals are certainly not perfect. I’m quite happy with it overall and now I’m tempted to get the cockpit. The problem is I did a few silver backing coats and have removed the windows mask. The cockpit would look wrong with that as it needs to be white. An excuse to buy a spare? Anyway:

Also, the hop ups I needed to continue turned up as soon as I started the shell:

I think I’m very close now as it’s the shell that usually takes the longest for me.

That’s a better job than I managed, well done!

I’ve actually got a new shell already, going to paint it as a fast road one instead of the full livery. Got some different wheels and tyres too, semi-slicks on some rims from a rally Focus. That way I can have two separate specs to run it as.

Tamiya update;

Avante progressing slowly – god it is a lovely thing to build…

Hotshot treated to gold wheels to match the original box art…

…and a little something else arrived. This one is for my boys Christmas present, but he’s not interested in the build so I get that pleasure myself 🙂 Hadn’t realised it came with a Torque Tuned rather than standard 540 motor. Thinking about a possible motor switcheroo with the 540 in the Hotshot… Off-road tyres already purchased.

Nice.

I got notification that the new bumper for one of mine has been dispatched after a 6 week wait. Game on!

hello folks, my MF01x Bug build is creeping forwards and i’m looking to work on the body now but given it’s my first time i don’t want to make a balls of it so…

Anyone use a reamer for making holes and if so have you bought one of the cheap £5 reamers or do you need to spend £20+ ?!

Also, any suggestions on magnets for attaching the body to the posts? I like the smooth look but just trying to source magnets with holes that will go onto posts. Sources welcome. Thanks!

@Loughan I’ve bought loads of magnets for work from the people linked below. They seem to have a fair selection that might work for you but I won’t recommend anything specific at this point as I’m not sure what dimensions you need for you body/posts.

https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-ring-c37

And we are done;

That looks mint!

Will you cry the first time that it slides on its roof?

That looks like a whole lot of fun!

That Avante is a work of art. Good work.

Are you going to video its inaugural thrashing?

For magnets I’ve had good success with ones off eBay.
Search “1/10 RC car magnetic body shell mount x4 black alloy”

Lots around mine were £8 posted and have adjustable angles.

Had to buy a reamer for roll cage mounts on my crawler. Went for the cheapest uk posted one on eBay and paid a fiver. Arrived in a week. Did the job just fine.

Wow, Avante looks awesome! 🙂
Thanks for link for magnets, will check them out
I’ve also ordered a £5 reamer from Amazon so lets see how it goes…

Will you cry the first time that it slides on its roof?

Very much so! It’s not going to just sit on a shelf, but I’m certainly going to keep it for ‘best’.

Are you going to video its inaugural thrashing?

Well not sure thrashing is the word…and I if I have to video it then it means my 7 yr old will be driving (or visa versa) – so maybe not!

The trouble is that RC cars look good in two states:

1: When pristine and displayed on a shelf.
2: When obviously used as they were designed to be, with worn tyres and loads of battle scars.

Judging by my cars I’m definitely in the second camp! I’m not saying thrash it but unless you’re treating it as an investment or Shelf Queen then get it doing what it’s meant to do!