The adapter itself interfered with the end cap on my WTB hub as the tooling is narrower than the end cap which made it exceedingly difficult to remove it as the cassette tool no longer slotted into place to get enough purchase.
Do you not just remove the hub end caps before using the tool (like with Hope hubs)?
Thats also providing that you can get the tool in enough to give you any leverage. I ended up using a vice and a pipe wrench – not ideal, bit it got it off.
@frogstomp – I probably could have done, but didn’t realise I’d have the issue with the end cap clearance until it was too late. I’m also not sure if I’d have had the room to put it where it needed to be after it was all torqued up
@radbikebro – I’m just wondering if you’ve cross-threaded the cassette onto the freehub (easy to do, especially if you are struggling with tool engagement) so it is not fully on which is why it is sitting too far out and rubbing on your frame.
but how do you do stop the freehub rotating when unscrewing the adapter
Good point, I haven’t had to take the adaptor off yet. I’ve had a look at my one. There is the lock ring that holds the cassette on, by removing that you then expose a toothed section in the adaptor which allows it to be unscrewed. The freehub would need clamping in some way. You could still use the chain whip on the cassette to give you something to turn against. It’s not ideal though
I’m on 10-46t with a 28t ring on two of my MTBs (30t on my lighter, short-travel bike), and it’s just about adequate for riding in the hills. And I’m in reasonably good shape FWIW.