Car woes – new engine?

Mowgli – Member
I got the same hoist I expect, £100. Plan to sell it after.

It’s been ok so far. Getting the exhaust off the turbo was a pig, and unless I do something differently it’s going to be impossible reconnect. Really wanted to avoid removing the whole steering sub-frame as it’s not that high off the ground. Otherwise though it seems to have been designed with the mechanic in mind – large bits come off whole, eg headlights, radiator, a/c condensor, intercooler, bonnet catch assembly etc all off in one lump.

Other than the turbo, I’m hoping the engine control module doesn’t throw a fit when I plug it back in.

Did you loosen the engine on the mounts before trying to remove the turbo?

As long as the engine is supported you can lean it backwards or forwards to suit what you are trying to do.

Its pretty easy to undo the lower gear box mount and still have the engine held in place.

Get a bit of 4×2 to help lean the engine about

Google ”easy way to change cambelt” it involves cutting it along its length to avoid timing issues. Vet easy and no need for engine lock-up tools.

”easy way to change cambelt” it involves cutting it along its length to avoid timing issues. Vet easy and no need for engine lock-up tools.

Only do this if you hate your engine.

My previous mechanic swore by this method…..Interestingly when I did my own belts this time on the same engine both the injection. Pumps were 1 tooth out.

The vehicles are both much more responsive and less clattery now. They both ran but they now run better. Won’t be using that lad again.

Not worth the risk your totally reliant on it being timed right before you start and just because it runs doesn’t mean it’s right….+ Belts stretch.. Timing pins ain’t expensive and can often be substituted with correctly sized drill bit

Think my generic kit was about 30 quid. Worth the money.

Out with the old…

New one is in and all put back together. Battery is too flat to start it today, so borrowing a charger tomorrow to hopefully get it going. Pretty much all the warning lights are lit up at the moment so may need a VAGCOM cable to sort. Airbag, coolant, oil, traction control, tyre pressure, electric handbrake….

Good work fella.

Have a beer.

It’s not so bad is it….The mechanicals.

I don’t envy you fighting with vagcom. I plan to send my ECU to van tuner and getting a imob delete if I ever require a new engine.

Have you got someone who knows their way round vagcom to do it for you ?

Not yet, going to see if it drives first as it needs an MOT soon anyway, so will get the garage to scan it.

Well done – most lights will extinguish with a running car and a charged battery,
Consider getting a VAG scan tool if the lights persist – getting a garage to read the codes can be expensive and frustrating as any remedy will require rescan, a VAG405 type will do most of what you are likely to need for around £35 .

I got my VCDS cable off ebay. I’m not sure how true it is, but a lot of sellers claim that the cheap cables will break after a couple of uses. I paid about £40 for mine when i had to code in the towbar on my Exeo. I’ve used i tot wind back the rear piston on my old mans Tiguan to do brake pads, so its more than paid for itself.

You can have a play on the Ross-Tech website to get a feel for how it works. http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.php
You can then look at the proceedures in the wiki and get a feel for what you need to do before going all gung-ho on the car!!

Probably worth taking a copy of any codes before changing anything in case it goes horrible wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted. Fair play to you for doing it so quickly

Buying a knock off cable and a dodgy copy of VCDS is pretty underhand. Rosstech do a fantastic job, they don’t need stealing from.

@Windydave13:

When I put the engine in my old jet boat, I had nothing bar engine with carbs and an exhaust manifold. Had to guess what all the wires and everything did. Got it running eventually

I wonder if it was an old jet boat I had. JetWave, about 9 ft long!!

Ended up swapping it for a JetSki in the services near Grantham on the A1! Went like stink when it worked; sadly it ate prop shaft bearings which was an engine out job. I figured the JetSki would be easier to sell (it was!) and the funds were for a RIB I was after.
… Had to put the Citroen AX engine myself as there was nothing installed; no information whatsoever available but was all fairly straightforward. An engine hoist was invaluable however….

Does it run ?

I’ve decided to hold off trying again till I’ve checked the timing belt with the proper tool. Did it with a felt pen and a drill bit and I’m 95% sure it’s right, but a bit nervous now so going to just check it with the proper tool this weekend. It’s not going to be more than about 1/4 of a tooth out, but the tool was only £7 so worth checking properly I think.

If it turns over, it won’t hurt the engine if it’s wrong – it just won’t start.

I think, anyway 🙂

Mowgli I am full of admiration for what you have done. I have spent many a cold night on a garage floor changing engines. It’s been something I have done since being a kid. It’s daunting when you first do it but you are a changed man and will look at engines and cars in a different light from now on. Fingers crossed everything will be fine.

So true inbred

I go to look at cars these days and so long as the chassis and body ain’t rotten engines/gearboxes don’t bother me beyond -is the price right and are spares easily available….

I am also impressed and happy that you have decided to fix not replace. I feel some affinity 🙂

Sorted out the timing belt with the handy tool, which was easier than I expected as access to the crank sprocket can be had from the wheelarch.

Tried starting, and no luck unfortunately. It turns over fine, but it’s not firing. Not sure how much turning over it would need to get the fuel through through the lines? I’ve tried it for about 5-10s each time, maybe 10 times. Don’t want to cook the battery so have left it for now.

The warning messages include ‘Emissions Workshop!’, ‘Stop – Oil Pressure’ and ‘Engine Fault’. It is letting me try starting, but either the fuel’s not made it through yet or is not being allowed through. I expect I need a VAGCOM cable before I can go much further with it.

Immobiliser stopping fuel getting past the stop solenoid ?

Do you have a fuel bleeding sequence / procedure? It’s worth checking all the fuel connections , filter unions and seals

High five for giving this a bash.

Forgive me if you’ve already posted this information but i’m viewing on my mobile, can you list the original car model & year & engine type/code and list the engine type/code for the replacement engine and whether or not you’ve also swapped the ECU. I’ll give my mate a call t’morn (he’s a genius with VW diesel engines amongst his rally/race car prep business) and quiz him regarding possible issues. I’ll post up on here whatever he advises.

Thanks pal! It’s a 2008 Passat 1.9TDi. Was a BXE, now has a BKC. I’ve not swapped the ECU, as per some advice on another forum I read. New engine came with pretty much everything (alternator, pumps etc), I just swapped the turbo over and all the tubes and wiring looms.

I’m going to prime the tandem fuel pump as it seems likely that might be airlocked.

Be mindful of excessive engine cranking as the Diesel pump relies on lubrication from the fuel passing through, I’ll get back to you via this thread tomorrow.

Just sucked some fuel through the pump, so I think it’s not an airlock. Bit more reading around suggests any number of sensor problems might prevent it from firing. Will get the mobile diagnostics folk out to scan the error codes.

somafunk – Member
Be mindful of excessive engine cranking as the Diesel pump relies on lubrication from the fuel passing through, I’ll get back to you via this thread tomorrow.

Not wanting to criticise, SF, but the PD engines are lubricated via engine oil, not diesel.

Very happy to be corrected on my lack of knowledge 😀 regarding the PD pumps, I now know something i didn’t have full knowledge of beforehand – It would take a special breed of person to automatically jump on the defensive and i feel STW have enough of “those” without adding my name into the mix.

Cheers Cody.

The quick fix/check is to give it a sniff off ‘easy start’*. And I mean a sniff – don’t dump the entire can into the air intake. It should at least pop and fart. This will confirm your timing/mechanical side is good to go (more or less).

Marko

*Not an approved method, but it cuts down the diagnostic time.

If you’ve changed the engine ecu, it definitely isn’t going to start!

You’ll need to re-pair the immo, and also update the VIN data

Not changed the ECU, so I think the immobiliser side of things should be ok.

Hi
Have you got a hot glow plug ?
If you can check the current to ensure they are hot, or pop one out and switch on the ignition. With these air temps it should be red hot in seconds.
As its a CR can you crack a fuel rail banjo or union to see if there is diesel going round the system?
If Yes and Yes then its either ECU not telling the injectors to open, possible imobiliser /anti theft issue, or your timing is out and the fuel is going in a millisecond too late. ( white exhaust fumes and smelly derv smell )

Not sure about glow plugs, but I’d heard that they’re only used in really cold weather – are they actually needed for starting normally?

It’s not Common Rail, but PD. Not sure if that affects a more detailed look at the fuel system.

I think (hope!) the timing is spot on now, and I suspect a computer fault is the problem. There’s nothing coming out the exhaust when trying to start.

Glow plug irrelevant.

Like I said give it a ‘sniff’ before wasting time/money on a suspect ECU problem.

My big concern is that there is a wiring issue with the change from the BXE engine to the BKC engine. I can get you the pin outs from both ECU’s when I’m at work if that will help – (PM if you need these).

Marko

OK, I’ll give the spray a try, thanks. From what I’d read, the two engines shouldn’t need any wiring or computer changes, but that assumes all the electrical stuff on the new one is working correctly.

Glow plugs are always used. A DI engine will start without them – eventually – but it doesn’t mean they aren’t important.The reason you don’t have to wait for them any more is because they come on when you unlock the doors.

IT BLOODY WORKS!

Rather embarrassingly, there was a loose connection on the main engine loom.

I’m off driving now. Huge thanks to everyone who’s contributed on this thread, I probably wouldn’t have taken this on without your help.

Cheers!

Woo woo! That’s great. Well done.

@Flaperon

Bit misleading. My PD engine (BKC) starts fine with the glow plugs disconnected – a bit ‘cloudy’ for sure, but no starting issues.

Also I can’t see how unlocking the doors would command the glow plugs on. Surely you’d just end up with a flat battery especially if you were a seriel door unlocker/locker? I’ve got a common rail VAG product to look at tomorrow so I’ll check your theory/information.

@Mowgli

Most non-starts/poor running issues I’ve seen on PD engines have all been due to the loom in the head. This usually throws up a fault code. The oil eventually seeps into the wiring and corrupts the ‘go’ signal.

If you are using the loom from the new engine (and after you’ve tried a sniff) I’d swap the loom in the head over. Easy enough to do and it will rule it out as an issue.

Also have a good look at the level/temp sensor in the sump. They are in a vulnerable position and it might have been damaged in the breakers? Mine went short circuit recently, blew a fuse and would not start.

Hth
Marko

Well done that man, see modern cars aren’t that bad!!

Well by jesus the boys done good. I tip my hat to you good sir.

Winner. Have that beer now.

Edit : I should’ve read the recent posts before i typed out my 10 line reply…..but it’s all good news so i see, well done Mowgli…treat yo’self to a well earned beer and the self satisfaction of fixing something 😀