Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

Spent enough this month I think! Though the straitlines are on sale right now!

Is the trigger 4 a straight 1.5 steerer?

Yes it is a straight 1.5 steerer.

I’m thinking a 50mm stem is a tad short for the large trigger, otherwise, I’d order a Straitline. If anyone upgrades their medium and has a 60mm Cannondale stem up for grabs, cheap, I might be interested. 😀

I tried a 50mm stem on the Large, it just felt too cramped and twitchy, not great on the climbs either. Found a 65mm Easton Havoc on Gumtree, brand new boxed local to me… for £10. The 65mm feels perfect, just less of a stretch than the 80mm.

I have a line on the Havoc too – but it’s Orange. Not sure that works on a red/black bike.

Quick heads up for any lefty owners
Just sent mine in for the upgrade, to tuned phoned me saying the shaft is worn because I’ve not cleaned the lower stanchions after every ride and dirt has got under the seal
Needs new lower shaft, which they are doing on warranty.
I’ll start cleaning from now on , expensive repair outside warranty apparently

I try to remember to at least wipe the stanchion off and then run oil around the seal and depress the fork after every ride, I hope that covers it….

Cheers, Steve

Thabka for the heads up. I clean mine most rides, but I thought an advantage of the upside down fork was that it was harder for dirt to find its way into the seals…

Mine gets hosed down after every ride, though I don’t oil the fork leg. Should I? With what?

edit: found a 60mm Cannondale stem online to try vs my 80mm, see which I like better.

Right, so I’ve just about had it now with Cannondale and their stupid quirks and random specifications.

So I’ve had a new set of wheels built. Using a Supermax compatible hub. Is it compatible with my Supermax lefty? Is it… Grr.

Photos

See the alignment photo – hub is simply too big, thus confirming it actually needs a standard hub and not the supermax one – despite defintiely being a supermax fork! How stupid is that.

So now I have to get wheel rebuilt on to a new hub. Total additional cost – £100 at least.

Seriously Cannondale. Not impressed.

According to the manual you need a different brake adapter for the Supermax hub. Does it not fit at all or is it causing caliper alignment issues?

@astormatt How are the cobalt 3 wheels? Toying with getting a pair as an upgrade to the crossroc.

Brake alignment issues mostly but also doesn’t seem to fit all the way on to the stub axle. The locking bolt is then too short.

Supermax fork = Supermax hub? Yes? Or not Cannondale…?

Look at page 5 of the Supermax manual.

http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/HEADSHOK/lefty%20supermax%202013/129975_SUPERMAX_080113_SCR_EN.ashx?vs=1&d=20150820T110713Z

This thread here us where I’d ask the Q.

http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/official-lefty-thread-tech-mechanical-etc-572616-14.html

How are you getting on with this ssmith? I’ve done some more digging and the Supermax hub is only available in 32 hole. The stock Mavic wheels are 24 hole, therefore the stock setup is running a standard Lefty Hybrid hub and brake adaptor.

I ask because I am planning to order some wheels in a couple of weeks. I’m not sure what the benefit of the Supermax hub is, but to use it, at the very least, we need a different brake adaptor. I don’t suppose your hub is fowling the adaptor and preventing it from going on?

I’m inclined to have mine built up on a Lefty Hybrid hub since that’s what we have already, albeit I’ll use a 32 hole variant. However, if a Supermax hub can be used simply by swapping out the brake adaptor then that’s a tempting additional expense.

edit: did you screw the bolt all the way through into the hub before mounting the wheel? You need to make sure it is all the way in, then it will spin freely in place, then mate to the spindle and let it pull it on – I noticed in one of your pictures that the bold was not already in there?

Here’s mine, Carbon 2.

Changes from stock:
Front hub: Cannondale branded
Rear hub: DT Swiss 350 w/ 54t ratchet
Rims: Mercury X1 carbon hookless, tubeless
Tires: Hans Dampf Snakeskin 2.35 front, Nobby Nic Snakeskin 2.35 rear
Rear brake: 203mm RT86

Planned: 160mm lefty conversion at service. Maybe some vinyl on the strut.

@ ssmith1979 why didn’t you test fit the hub before building the whole wheel? Would have taken 5 minutes at most.

On oiling the stut after each ride, hell I hardly ever wash the thing. I read the lefty manual, it isn’t mentioned there. The only mention they have of oil is for it to be lubricated every 100 hours by the dealer as part of their service.

I did however learn about the manual reset. It’s probably about time for that.

JNM1- Why have you fitted a bigger rotor to the rear? Do you not find it has messed up the balance when braking?
Seems odd as front brakes on all car, motorbikes, mtbs are bigger than the rear

Jnm
Are you putting 160mm travel on the trigger? Have you any experience about how it will handle?

@zerolight, wheels have been great so far. Bearings are still going strong, no rim dings and are as still as true as when they arrived.

I havent ridden the larger brake yet, just put on yesterday. I was going to do 180 originally but the post has been backordered for too long so just did 203.

Almost all the trails I ride are steep downhill. I will do a 13 mile ride and get 3,000 feet of climb with no flats. That means I get 3,000 feet of down over half that at 6.5 miles, average of ~9% gradient but 15-25% is not at all uncommon. Yesterday I went somewhere ‘flatter’ and it was 2,500 feet in slightly more distance. While the front has a ton of stop power I can’t be using it too much unless I want to go OTB. I am on the rear a lot coming down these things, more surface is just more better. It won’t hurt.

Jnm1 – did you go with a Supermax hub or a regular Lefty hub? If you went Supermax, did you have to do anything other than swap out the brake adaptor?

thanks astormatt – debating between the Cobalt 3s or getting a custom build around Stans Arch Mk3.

Took mine out for a nice 35k loop today.

@zerolight, used the lefty supermax hub, no brake adaptor or anything needed, direct fit with everything.

KH119/28

@jnm1 – man this gets more and more confusing. The Supermax manual suggests that there’s only 28H in regular Lefty rather than Supermax. But that part is clearly Supermax. Then there’s ssmith who believes he has a Supermax hub but it doesn’t fit his Supermax. On top of that, the Cobalt 3s that astormatt is using appear to use a regular Lefty hub, which would mean a brake adaptor would be required if we were all running Supermax hubs by default. What a headache. If I want to order a set of wheels it feels like a gamble.

Buy it from cannondale experts, very good service and advice. Tell them which year and model they have and they will pick out the right hub for you.

I wouldnt look at manuals, they can be outdated for this kind of thing. As for ssmith not sure, it’s possible the first iteration of supermax used the older post? AFAIK it’s the post you’re trying to match not what the sticker on the strut says. If he’s got an older post, that’s what he needs to fit. Just guessing though, but since the SMAX is the biggest if the SMAX hub was too big that’s really the only way that’d happen.

Thanks JNM.

@astormatt – can you double check the width of your Lefty hub on the Cobalts, centre to centre of the two spoke flanges please? It looks like the Supermax is 60mm and the regular Lefty is 50mm. My Trigger C2 has 60mm so I am assuming I am running Supermax. There’s zero info on the Cobalts anywhere. Thanks.

jnm1 – we all have 2015 triggers here – ssmith has the team. All Supermax forks, rev 1 and 2, are supposed to take both the Lefty and Supermax hub. Brake adapter aside. So it’s kinda confusing. I’m assuming, like me, ssmith wanted to get a set of wheels built up online hence not trying the hub first. But it should fit anyway which is really confusing.

Jnm. I’ve had the same problem with my rear brake overheating on long steep loose descents. My rear brake cooks and I end up using two fingers on it and getting arm pump. Going to a larger rotor would be the ideal fix. I’ve felt this problem equally bad on pads with fins and without. Keep us informed when you go 160mm. All my mates have 160 and 170 bikes so I’m considering a bigger fork.

I love the steeps

I am still confused by how it is too large, unless the post itself is a smaller version.

Since this thread is trigger happy, here’s mine @ Northstar. Wife rented a bike just to come along with me and the kiddo, who is 4.5 years old here. He did great on Easy Rider twice but didn’t like Tryumph, too much braking for him on that long a descent.

After riding with them I went and did Gypsy, Flameout, then Big Trees to Flameout.

Also re: 203mm rear, here’s what I am dealing with and what I mean by up or down, no flat. This is Skeggs for any NorCal riders.

That looks like an awesome day out. My 3 year old is a wee daredevil on his balance bike. He has no interest in his islabike 14 though. He has only tried it once in 5 months. Hopefully he will get some use before he grows out of it.

His is a CNoc 16

Semenuk, Zink, Rheeder, all Athertons, Aggy, Tyler and Cam McCaul, etc are his heros. He’ll watch Rampage and Crankworx or racing if he has the chance. But that’s another thread

@ssmith, this may be your issue

In this pic which I didnt see cause the link wasnt working right, but I opened by c/p it looks like you don’t have the bolt inside the little external flange.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjyX4T2oI3QWBnkmpaYk3dir4uV9U9Y0rw/view

Unscrew that outer ring cap thing, put the bolt inside, put the cap back on. I had that brain fart the first time I tried the hub and was like wtf it doesnt fit right.

jnm1 – Member
His is a CNoc 16

I got an email from Islabikes once warning me that the Cnoc 16 was not for jumping.