Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

So I called TFT.

He has plenty of kits for the 2.0. He says the 1.0 kits won’t be in until November some time. He says I definitely have a 1.0 Supermax, and as per ssmith, the main change is the flange at the bottom.

Dealer still says it’s to go to Cannondale. Only to TFT if you want a Service. I’m pushing them to clarify that.

TFT also said the bearing drift every few rides is totally normal. He can put in heavier gauge bearings to slow the drift but the for will also feel stiffer and less supple. Don’t fancy that.

Ashy, you might want to find out what your dealer is doing with yours, and if they still have it, what your flange nut size is. If, like ours, its 3mm, nothing will be happening to it until November!

I’d say that was b@llocks based on my experience.

I just whipped the fork off and sent it to TFT direct.

Just give TFT a call – they’ll sort you out.

How did you get yours off? I presume you only paid the shipping?

Might be worth asking TFT if they will do a partial upgrade for you.

What they did for me (and may well be willing to do for you) is change the air spring – but not the lower elastomer – for which they don’t have the kit. The lower elastomer will then be done when it goes for a service in a few months time.

Given the main upgrade is the air spring, I was happy with this…

I guess I don’t have any real issue with my Lefty as it is, so I can wait until November. Just read up on removing the Supermax – Ernie tool and a mallet. Shame the Ernie tool is £45!

Extraction of lefty is a little bit of a tricky job. Essentially it is undo all bolts, remove stem, and then whack the steerer tube with a rubber mallet until it comes out. The tricky bit is getting it past the second contact point when the top of the steerer is inside the headtube – but easily resolved using some poly drainpipe or similar.

And yes, I just sent it back and paid for return courier – which TFT arrange. Dead simple…

Yes I’m going to chase up the shop. This is turning into a bit of a farce.

Thanks ssmith. I might have a go myself in November. How tough was it to get it back on again?

Getting back in is much easier – just requires tapping the steerer back in from underneath until it is seated, then tightening everything up.

R.e your earlier post I wouldn’t bother with the £45 removal tool – I have done it twice now without need it…

Yeah, I read your comments on a rubber mallet and some plastic drain pipe. I’ll grab some next month from B&Q – saves me cycling the bike into Glasgow in wintery November and letting someone else take a mallet to my carbon frame. Might as well break it myself. 😀

Alpine called me again having spoken to Cannondale again. So it’s definitely this:

– is there a problem with your fork that requires a service under warranty, or you are wanting to pay for a service anyway – send it to TFT and they will do the upgrade at the same time

– is your fork otherwise fine, then the dealer will send it to Cannondale who will carry out the upgrade themselves through UK distributor CSG

Since I am suggesting I might have an issue with the needle bearing drift, I can send it to TFT for a warranty check and upgrade. I’ll just strip it off myself, ssmith style, I think.

Both CSG and TFT confirm there is no stock of 1.0 upgrade kits until November. CSG don’t have 2.0 kits either, though TFT do.

Sounds like things have tightened up in the last few days then – I only had mine back from TFT on Monday and I didn’t pay for (or want!) a service. Oh well..

Ah, but yours went in with a warranty issue on your needle pins, so that’s a free repair and upgrade. 😀

No – needle bearings was a previous trip to TFT – this time was recall only!

Ooh. Well I will just go direct there. Get it done right! Thanks.

So I was bored today and my bikes still in bits waiting on the dropper post coming back. So I decided to hack the front XT shifter up that I removed last week going 1×10. I’ve converted the shifter into a dropper remote. Wasn’t straight forward. Certainly the only guide I saw was for an older shifter and that was totally different. I nearly broke it but I got there in the end.

There two little metal hooks thingies. Silver things. I removed the one closes to the cable end. I flipped the other one around as you need it to get full cable pull but don’t want it to latch. There was a little spring holding that one in place that just wouldn’t catch again so I repurposed a very tiny screw from the assembly and screwed it into the spring hole to keep the hook from pivoting out of position. Reassembled and it seems to work. Just need the post to try properly.

Chopped of the pull trigger.

HI All,

I probably sound really dim but just after a bit of guidance.

I want to convert the bike to 1×10 – so what I have to do is buy a 32T ring which fits and replace the old ring with the new ring and obviously remove the derailleur/shifter etc? Do I not need a chain tensioner?

Thanks

Max

Max. I just did mine.

At a minimum you need to do what you say. Make sure it’s a wide narrow ring and you probably won’t need a chain guide. Is it a csrbon or alloy model? If carbon you can get a nice direct mount gxp 32t oval from works components and ditch the spider on your cranks. Otherwise you can get a regular ring from them to put on there in place of the existing outer.

However you will want an 11-42 or 11-40 cassette if you do any sort of climbing I’d imagine. I’d recommend the Sunrace MX3. I got a black 11-42 this week from thecycleclinic who were cheaper than everyone else.

If you put a larger cassette on, you may need a new chain too. I did, mine is too short.

Zero,

Thanks for replying. Mine is an Alluminium Trigger 4, I was looking at a Blackspire Snaggletooth Narrow Wide 32t? So you are saying mount this on the same place where the third ring is?

Okay that Sunrace sounds a good option the price doesn’t look too bad too.

Thanks,

Max

Oh you have a triple ring? Best wait on one of the experts to chime in. I’d imagine on a triple you want it on the middle but not sure.

Trigger 4 is a 96bcd. You need to remove the crank to get the small ring off. You just mount the new ring in place of the old middle

Itching to get out on my Trigger when new chain and repaired seat post turn up. It’s all cleaned and shiny in the garage now!

OK OK I give in. Now I need a chain device. Today I was half way down a hill when I dropped my chain. I was flying and didn’t want to stop. So I put my right foot forward for a as the chain was hanging onto the pedal. This was to put a bit of tension on it and try to stop it going into my wheels. I still got a PB and I’d forgotten to put my clutch on again. The next downhill I made sure the clutch was on but I was getting loads of slap then dropped the chain. I put it back on and dropped again. I think my clutch needs tightening.
What are my options? I think I want a direct mount as anything around my crank will make my already poor chain line worse.
I’m also struggling to get onto the bottom gear. I think my spring might be getting weak or cable friction. It goes down when I wind my tensioner off but then won’t go back up.

I’ve got a trigger 4 with 180mm rotor front 160mm back. Is it easy enough to do to convert the rear to 180mm also? Or is this a bad idea? Currently have slx brakes but the rear is pretty pants so was gonna upgrade to xt and slightly larger rotor to hope for better braking. Cheers

A 180 rear would be a good upgrade and would need an adaptor to increase the added height. No point upgrading to xt or xtr as they have the same power but reduced weight and more features bike bite point adjustment.
My rear locks up no bother with just a single finger. Do you mean your overheating them and getting brake fade? Larger rotors would help cooling and increase power.

My rear has only been crap when it leaked fluid on your the pads. Otherwise it locks easily.

Don’t know if you have heard about your recall date but I’ve been told the 4th of November for the 2spring recall, LBS wants it in the 1st so they can strip it and send it off.

Cheers, Setve

Yeah – November is what Cannondale and TFT are saying too.

Repaired seatpost back on bike. They replaced the air cartridge. It pops up to a hard stop with the tap of a button and locks tightly. It’s like a new post. Very happy. My XT seat post remote works a treat too – nice smooth easy action and easy to reach.

Waiting for new chain, and have also ordered a 13mm drive side BB spacer to replace the 15.46 spacer, and a pack of 1mm spacers for the other side, so I can correct my chain line. Nearly done. 😀

Hi crazymac my rear brake has always been pants, when I say pants my lever almost reaches the handlebars but if I press the brake in quick succession the amount the lever will pull is reduced. I have been to a bike shop and they bled the brake but hasn’t really changed and gave me some story of the fluid has to travel further I know this is useless info because I have a dh bike that is super responsive so I’m guessing there may be a very small leak somewhere possibly. Is it worth getting a xt set up or just upgrade the rear to a bigger rotor and hope it will increase braking quality

Hi crazymac my rear brake has always been pants, when I say pants my lever almost reaches the handlebars but if I press the brake in quick succession the amount the lever will pull is reduced. I have been to a bike shop and they bled the brake but hasn’t really changed and gave me some story of the fluid has to travel further I know this is useless info because I have a dh bike that is super responsive so I’m guessing there may be a very small leak somewhere possibly. Is it worth getting a xt set up or just upgrade the rear to a bigger rotor and hope it will increase braking quality

My XT rear (M785) is the same, brake bleed and pad replace still shite…pretty much to the handle but they do work…..

Cheers, Steve

Bike shops are terrible in my experience. It sounds like air in the system as that would get slightly better with repeated presses. It’s also possible you have to much free stroke. If there is to much space between the brake pad and disk. This is adjustable at the lever on xt but we need to remove the wheel and pull the lever slowly until the gap is smaller. Then check with the wheel back on. If you go to far you can push them out again with a brake block or wide screwdriver

Definitely try bleeding the brakes yourself. It’s pretty easy. Also, the wheel tricks to improve things, I did that to my XT front as it had way more lever pull than my mates SLX. Sound like they need bled though. Get one of the screw cups, and screw it onto the bleed cap on your lever whilst on the bars. Make sure lever is horizontal. Half fill the cup. Repeated taps on the lever will likely produce bubbles. Once you get no more, cable tie the lever fully pulled and leave for a couple hours then repeat the tapping trick. Usually clears any bubbles.

I had a similar issue to you on my Trigger that turned out to be a leaking caliper. Contaminated my rear brake pads and meant no matter how hard I pulled, rear would not lock. Changed pads and it went away for one ride. I sent it back to Pauls for replacement and cleaned my discs. Problem gone.

Nearly done. New chain on and everything working well (except for the chainline being a little off, resulting in backpedalling into a lower chain ring from the top couple of rings, and a little chain noise). Waiting on Evans sending me the 13mm drive side crank spacer.

At some point I need to move that gear cable across and through the lefty to clean it up a bit, and I should really shorten the remote cable from the XT trigger to the seatpost an inch or two to get rid of the bunching.

Sometimes I think that saddle looks really high and I should have gone XL, but it feels great to ride so I just assume it’s the rather low sloping top tube making it look super high, and probably the angle of the picture.

Well, after nearly 3 weeks in the shop for the air spring update my bike has been reassembled and am picking it up on Friday. The work hasn’t been done yet, and it’ll be going back to the shop when the parts are available. Bit of a farce really!

At least you get to ride it for the next month!

True. I’m really looking forward to it.

Well the saddle was actually a bit high. Took it for a quick spin and dropped it an inch. My superstar pedals have been clicking again so I removed the grease cap on one and regreased it. Tried the other which was one that had taken a knock when I came off the other month. In doing so, the thread stripped on the cap and the spindle seized. 😡

Now more money going on new pedals. Gah!

I don’t know why I thought the carbons were spec’d with a 60mm stem – sure I read it someplace. Measured mine today and it’s 80mm right enough, so I am now thinking I want to try rascal’s advice of a 50mm stem!

I believe the mediums came with 60mm stem and 80mm for large +. Mine is definitely 60mm

edit. Erm, what….?!