Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

50mm Thomson stem and offset bushings, made it much better on the technical stuff for me.

Currently looking at WTB i-35 rims, anyone running those?

I dropped the chain at Stainburn on mine, so I’ve got the OneUp components direct mount guide and so far it’s been flawless.

My Trigger 3 has a Fox Float 32 on it. Anyone know what size rotor I can put on? I found something that said 140mm-203mm but just wanted to check.

Any recommendations on what to replace current rotors with?

Ashy, how’s that Works Oval performing? Would you buy it again? I’m thinking, since I ordered the wrong AB ring and need to return, that I might go for that cheaper 32T Oval direct mount from Works instead of AB.

It’s perfect mate. The only time it lost the chain was on the Stainburn ride and to be fair I was absolutely hammering it and the trail there is very very rough and rocky, so it’s not that surprising. Never had any issues otherwise. I didn’t know we could go direct mount though which is interesting.

So yes, to answer your question I would buy it again without question!

Just thought I’d post up yesterdays jaunt on’t’Trigger, just because…. well.. why not? 🙂

Trigger-on-the-Range by bin lid[/url], on Flickr

Stil lovin’ it! What I can’t get my head round is it seems to climb better than ny hardtail. How does that work then?

Yup, the spider comes off with the removal of 3 torx screws. My mistake was to order a BB30 SRAM direct mount chain ring – but it turns out we have a long spindle BB30 SRAM which needs the SRAM GXP direct mount rings which have a 6mm offset, the regular BB30 has zero offset.

I’ll order one of these then:

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-32t-sram-oval-gxp-fitment-narrrow-wide-spiderless-chainring-267-p.asp

I think it will result in a more accurate chain line than using the spider, though I am not certain. And they are not much different in price than the spider version.

Did you have to adjust your chain when going 42 at the rear and 32 oval (technically 34) at the front? With a regular 32 it would be a straight fit. I think because it’s oval its probably going to be closer to a 32 than a 34 so I am assuming there’s no need for a new chain. Spent too much already.

I went 1×11 so had a new chain anyway. Best way to check if existing chain is long enough is to drop the air out of the shock and cycle the shock through with the cranks and chainring at their “biggest” dimension. I reckon it’ll probably be fine.

I was tempted to go 1×11, but decided to leave that upgrade until next year. Hopefully I can survive with only 10 gears. 😀

Fitted the mx3 today. That black / red combo is quite fetching on the black/red Trigger. 🙂

Sweet. Have to say I’m missing mine while it’s away getting the lefty “upgraded”. Somewhat worryingly though my 29er hardtail was significantly quicker round Dalby forest than the Trigger. Like 8 seconds average per segment…..not sure how that works-perhaps I’ve become super fit whilst the trigger is away.

That’s amazing Ash! I suppose those 29r wheels really work. I never thought there could be much difference. Saying that my 26r hard tail is a lot slower. My trigger had got faster as I’ve reduced the shock pressure.

Yes, I couldn’t quite believe it myself. I was on a mission and Dalby is quite pedally and smooth, which would have played in the 29ers favour I guess. I’ll do the same route when I get the trigger back and compare!
Chris

Just need a seat post now!

Third time lucky?

Those flat pedals look flipping massive! What are they?!

Hi Ashy, they are Superstar Nano-x. Might just be the angle of the photo, though they are pretty big. I like them.

Took the air out of my shock and discovered that yes, the chain is too short. in the 42T with the shock bottomed out, the jockey wheels are hitting the chain rings and the chain is pretty close to straight. Last thing I wanted to do was buy a new chain too. I just need 2 or 3 links. 🙁

I wouldn’t bother adding links. Your not going to smash down anything on the big ring?

I know. Just seems better safe than sorry.

I will have a look in my Spares box. I might have a few brand new 10 speed links that I can post to you.

Ooh. That would be very nice Ashy! I’ll fire you an email just in case.

Carbon Trigger owners – especially Team – could really do with some help please. Long story short but I have suspected for some time that the fork on my Team is different.

The recent recall notice here and also TF TUNED when the work was done confirmed I have a Supermax 1.0

And yet the product catalogue here confirms I should have a Supermax 2.0

So… help! What have other carbon owners, particularly Team got on theirs? The quick way to tell is if you have a 3mm or 6mm flange to the locknut at the base of the fork. 1.0 is 3mm, 2.0 is 6mm.

And then the question is what to do? What can I do? What is the difference between a 1.0 and a 2.0?

Any assistance from owners gratefully received. Thanks.

What year is your team?

Sorry should have said – it is 2015. Pauls Cycles special bought in Jan 2016.

Have you got a pic of your forks and the locknut?

Pics here I hope.

Definitely a 3mm locknut which according to the service bulletin makes it a Supermax 1.0. TF TUNED also said same thing when it went back for the work. I think the graphics are also slightly different to some others.

So what have others got?

Started a new thread on what the difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 might be but no conclusions yet.

Thanks all for your help.

Smith

Here’s what my 2 looks like.

Mine seems to be 3mm as well but it looks just like the forks on all the review bikes.

Looking at the Supermax vs Supermax 2 manual on Cannondale site, the 1 Lefty seems to be a 29er fork with 90 to 130mm of travel. I suspect therefore that the 3mm vs 6mm check is probably not accurate. I can’t see them decaling up and older model 29er fork and sticking it on 27.5. More likely they switched back to the 3mm flange head.

Regardless, the 1.0 is 130mm and the 2.0 is 140mm. If you can manual reset your lefty to the 20mm suggestion that would be 140mm travel. On the 1.0 the reset was to 35mm and gave 130mm travel.

Seems odd that Cannondale themselves would issue an identification tool that is wrong?

That said, if the only difference between the 1.0 and the 2.0 is 29″ vs. 27.5 not really an issue? But mine is definitely a 27.5 so that theory doesn’t seem to hang together either.

Zero – on the basis of the identification guide yours too would appear to be a 1.0! Hmm…

Just spoken to TFTuned – the 2.0 is a rolling revision to the 1.0. The main difference is a redesigned bottom cap – with a 3mm deeper flange, as confirmed by service bulletin. Other than that – no major differences in design, spec or performance.

In any case, the air spring replacement work has the effect of bringing both the 1.0 and 2.0 exactly in line with each other in terms of internals – so no difference in performance at all.

The wonderful world of Cannondale…!

Good news Smith. I’m still waiting on a slot to get mine booked in. Also need to get my seatpost back so I can ride it over to Alpine Bikes.

edit: Just spoke to Jungle, it’s getting packed up to come back with a new air cartridge inside. Be here by Tuesday. Roadbike this weekend then.

Speaking of bearing resets – I had to do mine again today. That’s like every 2nd month. As my Trigger shares time with my road bike, it’s definitely not 50 hours of riding. Hopefully TFT can take a look at that whilst they are doing the 2spring.

I had the needle bearings in mine replaced by TFTuned to try and correct the fact that I had to do reset after every ride. Despite them fitting different spec bearings (the graduation is 0.01mm!) it is still not perfect – now resetting about every two/three rides.

Talking to TFTuned it seems to be an accepted Lefty ‘feature’. Not sure I like it, but hey.

As an aside – was amazed to find that there is 35g difference between my lefty, and a 2017 Fox 34 fork with 210mm steerer. 35g! So much for superlight lefty vs. conventional forks! Oh well. Still looks cool..

I do love the look of the Lefty much more than a regular fork. In a few years when I change bikes again, I’ll be disappointed to be back to a conventional look.

It’s easy enough to do the reset I suppose, and keeps the air pressure right too. Need to remember to do that at the same time as checking my tubeless goop.

I’m still not convinced by the rolling revision of 1.0 to 2.0.

The 2.0 was announced at the same time as the 27.5 bikes and prior to that it was a shorter travel 26/29 fork. I’m more inclined to believe that the 6mm flange was a rolling revision from a 3mm flange, but both on the 2.0, rather than the 1.0 and 2.0 being the same. Pretty sure we both have the 2.0. I don’t suppose it really matters.

Either way, with TFT telling you that the internals are exactly the same as the very latest iteration of the 2.0 coming off the factory, it is all moot.

edit: what fork pressure do you run. I find if I run at the recommended pressure of around 70psi I get 20mm sag and a stiff fork. I run it at around 60psi to get close to 40mm sag (in fact for a while I was running it at 50psi). I guess the softer it is, the quicker the bearings will drift due to a more active suspension.

To be clear – they didn’t say the revisions brought it in line with latest coming out of factory – just that after the work the internals of the 1.0. and 2.0 would be identical.

I’m not sure if there has been a revision since the Supermax 2.0 (with updated air spring) so it could well be that as you say – the effect is bringing it up to date with current factory models.

The world of Cannondale has been an education to me!

Latest from my dealer. The 2spring upgrade is being carried out by Cannondale directly. TFT will only be involved of you are paying and sending fork in for a service. That’s a little odd. And more frustrating, Cannondale don’t have the parts yet but TFT do.

oh FFS.what a total shower.