Can I remove the lacquer from carbon handlebars?

I have a tatty but perfectly useable set of Easton carbon handlebars, which I’d like to smarten up a bit (or to see if I can really). Any suggestions on the best way to remove the cosmetic lacquer? Fine sandpaper? Wet ‘n’ dry? Youssou N’Dour?

Yes I know I have to do it outside preferably in another country and wear a Haz-Mat suit.

Is it feasible though?

2400 grit wet and dry and soapy water dude

Thanks, apologies for abandoning this thread, been very busy!

Any other suggestions? Although that sounds pretty good. Any suggestions on getting them shiny again?

It’s there for a reason, you realise this right?

molgrips – based on his frame thread bartyp will only accept advice from people who actual apply resin to carbonfibre sheet, wrap it around formers and put it in an autoclave themselves.

It’s there for a reason, you realise this right?

It seems to be purely cosmetic, judging by the bits that have peeled off and not caused the bars to instantly fail! And the woven top layer of CF is part of the cosmetic appeal, from what I’ve learned about the stuff. I have other Easton CF bars with no obvious lacquer on them.

It seems to be purely cosmetic, judging by the bits that have peeled off and not caused the bars to instantly fail! And the woven top layer of CF is part of the cosmetic appeal, from what I’ve learned about the stuff. I have other Easton CF bars with no obvious lacquer on them.

It does serve a purpose, but you can always replace it. It’s a fairly regular job to have to do on sailboats, sand the mast down qith 180grit and a lot of water until you hit the fibres, then coat it with a good quality varnish. Note, this won’t be something you get from B&Q you’d need to go to a decent dinghy/yacht chandlers, and the durability is proportional to the effort, spray on varnishes aren’t particularly durable, the 1-pack varnishes last about 2 years on a boat, and the two-pack 4+ years, but are a PITA to sand off again.

BUT! Most of the damage on boats comes from sunlight degrading the lacquer. Unless the bars have been left outside in the sunshine and never ridden off road, I’d presume that if the bars are old enough to look that tatty that they’re due for replacement.

And after all that, buying new bars will be cheaper. If you just want to spruce them up then 240grit to key the surface, wipe clean with IPA and a rattle can of paint from Halfords should give OK results for <£10.

I’d presume that if the bars are old enough to look that tatty that they’re due for replacement.

They’ve actually spent far more time stored in the dark, than being on a bike. They are probably around 12 years old, and are more likely to be scruffy from being knocked around in storage, than from actual riding. Good point on the hassle involved though. I might just put them on another bike and buy some new ones. The only thing is that I need a 25.4mm bar, and I don’t think there’s many carbon bars in that diameter around these days.

It seems to be purely cosmetic

I would say that it’s sacrificial – in that you damage the lacquer, and can see the damage, before you damage the fibres. As Spoonie says, if you need to remove it, you’d be best off adding something else. Otherwise you’d be exposing the fibres and you don’t want to damage those.

I’ve got two 25.4 super duper light expensive carbon bars in the garage, but they are also tatty, probably no better than yours.

Oh wait – actually, I have a similarly bling expensive 25.4 Easton Monkeylite low riser in the garage, which is in pretty good nick – looks lovely. Interested?

These will just be for a ‘pimped’ town bike, so aesthetics are actually more important than function (although they do of course need to be safe). And they will only need to look good for a short while really. So now I’m thinking of just flattening the scratched bits and spraying them with some lacquer stuff. Feasible?

No. Buy my nice bars.

How much?

molgrips – based on his frame thread bartyp will only accept advice from people who actual apply resin to carbonfibre sheet, wrap it around formers and put it in an autoclave themselves.

I help people do this for big things that fly and even bigger things that spin and make electricity and occasionally do it myself so I might be qualified…

You’ll be there all day with P2400, I’d try some P1200 and see how you get on but maybe something a big coarser but be very careful. I wouldnt go down to fibres, I would just go down until you get a decent surface you are happy with. Use water as lube.

De-grease

Pick up a can of UV stable (outdoor) lacquer, PU wheel lacquer will probably be a good shout. May not last as well as a pro finish but should be good enough. Couple of LIGHT coats. Allow it to harden off properly for a couple of days and if possible (when the tack has definitely gone) put it somewhere warmish.

PS this is all at your own risk of course.

Agree with ^ I’ve done bars and frames in the past.
Just sand until you’ve taken out the worst of the flaking and spray after a good degrease.

This is an mtb frame I removed the paint from and relaquered.
Over 300 grams of paint on a medium frame. I proceeded to hoon this bike around for 5 years as a single speed before killed it by over tightening the BB, debonding the shell.

Good stuff. I’ll give it a go later on in the week. I have a saddle to re-cover too. It’s all about top-quality Italian leather.