Boost Hubs and Non-Boost Cranks

Anybody running this combo of Boost Hubs and Non-Boost Cranks?

Don’t really want to buy new cranks if I don’t have to, I have plenty of chainring clearance in the frame. Guessing it will it will effect the chainline slightly in the smaller cassette cogs but actually better chainline in the 42t.

Pretty much what you said up there. I think a better chainline in the 42 is more important, not only because I’m mostly up that end of the cassette, but because the 42 is a lot closer to the bottom bracket than the 10.

I’m boosted in the hub department but running standard cranks/ring. No issues runs smooth as… even down at 10t

Sounds like it should all work. I can buy a boosted spider from middleburn if needed but if I can avoid it all the better.

but because the 42 is a lot closer to the bottom bracket than the 10.

not where the chain first contacts the sprocket it isn’t.

If you assume the chain leaves at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions on all sprockets it only varies then due to the size difference effect on the diagonal and a bit of chain wrap etc.

What I would say though is if you have to compromise then bias towards the gears you use most and exert the most torque in. eg you might be doing a lot of out of the saddle climbing in low gears and generally only use the higher gears when down hill and just to keep speed up and work with gravity or when pootling on the flat.

High torque + bad chain line is the worst scenario for a bike chain and will accelerate wear.

If you’re 1x, you can more or less get boost chainline by runninng the rin on the outer of a triple isntead of the middle, but as above, the narrower chainline might suit 1x better in some cases

Andyl, you’re right, I wasn’t thinking in all three dimensions.

Here’s an idea though, how about 1×11 with a floating chain ring? Allow it to move to suit the sprocket selected.