Any car mechanics ? Dreaded Engine light on…Intake air system leak ?

Bought a VW Touran 16.fsi last week, last night the dreaded engine light comes on, so this morning call the RAC who come out and stick their diagnostic machine on it comes up with error code P2279 INTAKE AIR SYSTEM LEAK.

Mr Rac clears the code then reruns his machine no fault but he thinks it could come back on…having looked on the inter web could it be the PCV VALVE/LEAKY HOSE ?

My mechanic (he’s away on leave) has the latest SNAP ON diagnostic machine can that machine tell if that fault has happened before ie logged faults ? So at least I can go back to the trader armed with info !

Many thanks in advance

Start with breather hoses and pipe work between maf & inlet manifold.

Could be maf sensor? Roadtest and check live data for maf

Could even be egr fault possibly

From a trader -return it for him to sort out surely

Also be VERY careful. I had the same error code but it had been a problem for a bit before the ECU caught it. Result? Burned out valve seats, 1000 quid replacement of most of the engine.

before i go back to the trader I need to be armed with info otherwise all he will do is reset the light.

Also be VERY careful. I had the same error code but it had been a problem for a bit before the ECU caught it. Result? Burned out valve seats, 1000 quid replacement of most of the engine.

what car was it ?

as the error is now cleared why would it return ?

as the error is now cleared why would it return ?

Because you have a fault with your engine.

Mil lights don’t allways illuminate imediately. For a fault like yours, the ecu will monitor a number of drive cycles and evaluate info from various sensors before deciding something is outside parameters and putting the light on.

You’ll probably find that by the end of the week your lights back on (depending on miles/drive cycles done)

Also, you’ll probably find the previous owner sold the the cardue to/knowing there was a fault but didn’t want to pend the money fixing it. Happens a lot with used cars these days unfortunately 🙁

drove car home from work just now, parked when applied handbrake car accelerated up to 1500 on its own so I put some more power on then let go and the car idles normally again a bit juddery but then fine !

at best could this be something simple ? no light has come on

bikes simple cars not simple !

just want to get as much info before I go back to trader (from ebay) it could just be something simple after all…

quick trip out this arvo with the kids…light back on !

to my other mechanic in the morn fingers crossed its something simple or its trading standards and arguing with a motor trader ! I did notice on the receipt that he wrote sold as seen…but from what I have read Im still covered…

any other info greatly accepted.

drove car home from work just now, parked when applied handbrake car accelerated up to 1500 on its own so I put some more power on then let go and the car idles normally again a bit juddery but then fine !

Sort of what mine did. Garage said it was “probably” a sparkplug going, when I dropped it in they said a punctured pipe and 2 days later told me the engine was shagged. BTW, the 1000 pounds was the bit I paid, VW paid for the parts (about 800 quids worth). It may not be the same thing but I’d not take any chances after that experience.

I cant see VW paying anything towards the cost as the car is 6 yrs old !

More peed off as the trader is going to be a complete ****

I doubt there will be any history stored in the ECU for this code, as it is not a mandatory ‘PO’ emissions code.

The Snap-On scanner is OK on VAG group cars, but you will be better off using VCDS (formerly VAG-Com) on this. That’s the full version of the programme and not some knock off £10 Ebay special!

Might be just what the code says, so don’t get depressed or look for the ‘Bombers’ under the bed just yet.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18711/P2279/008825

Hth
Marko

Cheers Marko

my mechanic has spent about £8000 on his diagnostic machine so hopefully it will find the cause

If the MIL keeps coming back, there’ll be freeze frame data present. There is no record though of the first occurence (the RAC man cleared the codes, and with it all history). A half decent mechanic with the correct kit will easily get to root cause, as the fault seems to be there all the time, but convincing the trader that it was there when you bought it will be down to you/your approach, and the mechanics knowledge.

It may be very cheap to fix (loose vac pipe etc), but it might not be…..

lets hope so ! Should have stuck with the Honda !

unfitgeezer – Mine was 5 years old when the problem happened. I found a VW owners forum and asked a few questions. A dealership mechanic (I think) said it was a common problem (the valve seats burned out) and said if I pushed they’d pay part of the repairs. Fingers crossed it’s just a hose or two for you tho.

Mechanic found a broken pipe ! £11 to fix

He is pretty sure this was the problem but what I want to know is why the light only came on after 90 miles of it being reset ? Does the ECU work in cycles of time ?

He is pretty sure this was the problem but what I want to know is why the light only came on after 90 miles of it being reset ? Does the ECU work in cycles of time ?

From above post, this……

Mil lights don’t allways illuminate imediately. For a fault like yours, the ecu will monitor a number of drive cycles and evaluate info from various sensors before deciding something is outside parameters and putting the light on.

You’ll probably find that by the end of the week your lights back on (depending on miles/drive cycles done)

many thanks