Stuck a 29in wheel in the rigid fork on my (26er) inbred, popped a pair of faster rolling tyres (Maxxis Ardents Vs the Chunky Monkey/Smorgasbord I had before, dropped the SS gearing (32/16 - 32/17) ... What a difference!
Anyone else having 69er shenanigans?
If there are no picture it never really happened!😏
Anyone else having 69er shenanigans?
FFS don’t ask for picks.. 🙈
Indeed
Tried gravel/cx bike... Lasted a while before I realised that a flat bar rigid is almost as fast and actually betterer (for me)
Cheap as chips shed parts build and i love it (apart from the on-one QC on the special edition inbred)
^^ Pic not working for me?
Na nor me... 🙂
You will have to imagine it.... Black... Inbred... Rigid.. With wheels... Seat..and er a 69er. In France by a sign, me beer in hand, sun shining down. French maidens dancing behind me.
Out of all the forums I am on this one is possible the most useless user unfriendly pile of ones and zeros I have seen. Slightly off topic I know but it should not be hard to post a picture directly! Will resort to photobucket rather than Dropbox.
What does a 29" wheel actually do aside from introduce more rolling weight and screw with the geometry?
I've done that to my 456 before. Works really well. I've got suspension in there at the moment but it's great when the outside world is ultra mucky.
Squirrelking... Well it does not screw geo. In fact the axle to crown measurement with a 29er wheel in on a 26" fork is actually the same as the bouncy fork I replaced. I found the inbred front end quite low anyway so now running rigid with no sag the geo is perfect.
Front wheel rolls over stuff better and the smaller rear accelerates quickly.
Probably would not go out my way to build with new bits... But with a mix of parts lying around as most of us do it works really well. Ride it more than my cdf at the mo as its just more suited for the kind of riding I do (and commuting)
I'm with the don on this. Exactly my experience. I wouldn't buy one from the shop but as a parts bin special great fun.
What does a 29″ wheel actually do
rolls over stuff slightly betterer, particularly in a straightish line.
holds more momentum, but oddly aren't necessarily moar stable.
Turns in slowerer (and behaves slightly differently when leant over cornering).
brakes less efficienty for the same size disc.
Accelerates slowerer.
flexes moar.
iz weakerer.
iz uglier and doesn't pull da pretty ladies (pic works for me 😉 )
They'll never catch on...
Smaller wheels are moar fun, strongerer, nimlberer, cheaper and lighterer
#264LYFYO
Not 69 but the wheel probably isn't much smaller! Alfine rear hub for the ultimate winter killer
Currently got my old Indy Fab SS setup as a kind of 69er....26" rear wheel, and 27.5+ front.
Works surprisingly well.
If you are going to do 69er at least do it properly. I remember really wanting one of these 12 years ago.

I’ve always been amused when much is poured over geometrically on here and yet people seem commonly happy to raise the handlebars on a bike, not by using a stem or bar but by putting a longer fork or bigger wheel or both in there.
I’ve always been amused when much is poured over geometrically on here and yet people seem commonly happy to raise the handlebars on a bike, not by using a stem or bar but by putting a longer fork or bigger wheel or both in there
or putting a smaller wheel in the back.
Still ride my Trek 69er SS. Still rate it as the most enjoyable bike I own.
Can't post a picture of it, so that could all be lies (but it isn't)
OP - sounds like fun. Hope you enjoy it.
kerley
Member
If you are going to do 69er at least do it properly.
Find a Singular Hummingbird frame, with it’s proper rigid fork.
Funnily enough, I have several.
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or putting a smaller wheel in the back.
Using a spare 26 rear wheel is a great way to change the geom in an old 275 frame … lower (BB), slacker (headangle) … doesn't raise the bars though.
What does a 29″ wheel actually do aside from introduce more rolling weight and screw with the geometry?
Maybe. But the wheel is lighter than the 26 wheel that came out.
In a totally non-scientific way, it made a significant difference. Rolls (over stuff) better, raising the front a touch and slackening the HA a notch did seem to make for a more confident ride.
I've enjoyed my SS rigid 26er, but there's no escaping it's bloody hard work at times ... Changing it to a 69er (also with a slightly lower gear) made a surprising difference and was overall a nicer, and slightly less gruelling experience.
Well it does not screw geo. In fact the axle to crown measurement with a 29er wheel in on a 26″ fork is actually the same as the bouncy fork I replaced.
Umm. Yeah. Why wouldn't it be? Try comparing the ground to crown height. and I didn't say it would screw, I said it would screw with. Different meaning.
@geex 29" rolls over stuff better, sure, no arguments here. I might be stuck in the past but that's more a financial thing than being a luddite. How about the smaller wheel on the back though?
In a totally non-scientific way, it made a significant difference. Rolls (over stuff) better, raising the front a touch and slackening the HA a notch did seem to make for a more confident ride.
That's more what I was after, so it's basically a ghetto method of achieving what an angleset also accomplishes.
Inbred 69-er?
Been there, done that, very fond memories.



Still riding odd-wheeler till this day. But nowadays in full suss guise.

Cheers!
I.
Yep, did the same and it was fun - but fully rigid singlespeed got a bit wearing after a bit, so put gears and 29" wheels with CX tyres in it for a cheap "gravel" bike - tyre clearance is tight as f*** with a 26" frame though! For anyone wondering about the effects on geo etc, I'm too clueless to notice so its' all good 😉
@IvanMTB ... Those look like they'll topple over backwards! 29er fork AND wheel in a 26er frame? Think mine is a little more balanced with just the 29er wheel in a 26 rigid fork ... Will sort out a photo in a bit.
so put gears and 29″ wheels with CX tyres in it for a cheap “gravel” bike – tyre clearance is tight as f*** with a 26″ frame though
I thought about that. But would only get a 35c tyre on a 29er wheel at the rear, and have gravel bike(s) anyway.
You are not the first person telling me that hardtailonly 🙂
But I never had any issues on the uphills.
No front wheel wandering, not toppling backwards. In fact that was much nicer climber then when it was in full 26er guise...

Looking forward to see your pix.
Cheers!
I.
Nice one <thumbsup>
Cheers!
I.
My , er, 7.59+er.
Or not...
Guess I should have used Dracs iPad.
I’ve always been amused when much is poured over geometrically on here and yet people seem commonly happy to raise the handlebars on a bike, not by using a stem or bar but by putting a longer fork or bigger wheel or both in there.
Hold on - didn't you supply a 456 69er to dirt for a test once?
I'm more curious to know how a 26 wheel accelerates more quickly than a 29 when they're attached to the same frame.... 😀
I’m more curious to know how a 26 wheel accelerates more quickly than a 29 when they’re attached to the same frame
You just get half the acceleration increase over a full 29er
The frame compresses but don't worry as it stretches again as you slow down due to the greater momentum of the front wheel.
I thought it got low and slacker in use then goes upright when you brake or slow down.

This was a 69er, now a 67.5plusser.

This is my 49er, it used to have a fatter tyre on the front,
I thought it got low and slacker in use then goes upright when you brake or slow down.
If it's doing that then you've made the elementary mistake of putting the 26" wheel at the front and the 29" at the back.
Ran my rigid Inbred (440mm fork) as a 69er for quite some time and it was good however the steering had a slight tendancy to feel a little floppy, probably the fork needed a little more offset (think the Hummingbird ones were like that).
It is now a 67.5er with a 2.5 WT Minion up front and is much better than it was as a 69er and I prefer it to when it was a rigid 26.
restlessshawn that was my experience with the the steering as well with a rigid 440mm fork, I liked the way it rolled over things a little better though. I'll have to give the the 27.5 3" tyred wheel of my Ramin 3 a try.
If you choose right you can fit a decent sized 29" tyre in a 420mm fork, which would be the better option for 69ering a 100mm suspension 26er frame.
restlessshawn
Member
Ran my rigid Inbred (440mm fork) as a 69er for quite some time and it was good however the steering had a slight tendancy to feel a little floppy, probably the fork needed a little more offset (think the Hummingbird ones were like that).
Yes, the Hummingbird forks are 445 a/c and 55mm offset, so you have less trail and no low speed floppiness. An added advantage is that the front centre is slightly increased.
But, whatever, the Hummingbird is a wonderful handling bike. I’d buy an updated version in a shot - so, 27.5 rear, 29 front, 30.9mm seat tube and two degree slacker head angle. Columbus or Reynolds 853.
Plus, if I had a set of 140mm 29” forks,(preferably Marzocchi) I’d be trying a 29” front wheel in one of my LV 301’s, Tobi Leonhardt stylee.
Oh this is still going! Brant what the hell do you know about bikes* the 69er config on the inbred has transformed the bike. I guess it's all just personal preference at the end of the day. Far too much is sprouted about mm's here and there but for 99 percent of us the changes are insignifcant....well unless you are a strava sausage like me 🙂
All I can say is the inbred in standard config with my 100mm Reba's was poor. Running 26" forks and a 29" front wheel its great.
Still trying to battle with this terrible forum to post a pic. Be back in 2027.
*I know you have a little bit to do with the inbred 🙂
Had a few rides on one in 2008. Quite nice although I seem to remember not liking the steering on slow/tight stuff
https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/2804316298
Oi, knottie! This wheel is small, but that one is far away? You can't just come back on here posting a bike leaning against a rail. It's a post or nothing fella!


