Home › Forums › Chat Forum › 65″ TV bracket onto plasterboard?
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65″ TV bracket onto plasterboard?
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sadexpunkFull Member
lads gone and bought himself a new tv, just been down to hopefully stick it on the wall for him but im not happy with it…..
havent got a stud detector but tapping the plasterboard, it sounds hollow. its an external wall tho so theres got to be brick there somewhere!
whats my best options? if its worst case scenario and say the holes dont line up with any studwork, can say 8 of those spring loaded plasterboard screws hold that weight?
or will it be a small gap between plasterboard and brick and i just need to find longer plugs and screws?
wotcha reckon?
thanks
scotroutesFull MemberFind the studs. Stick up a couple of battens across them. Mount TV to them.
phil5556Full Memberhttps://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m5-x-37mm-20-pack/99201
I’ve used these with great success where I couldn’t line up with the studs.
Some of our big radiators have 2 or 3 on each bracket and they’re solid.
jonno101Free MemberGeeFix Plasterboard Cavity Wall Fixings Hollow Wall Anchors Heavy Duty (Pack of 4 Fixings) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0196MJM8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RiylFbXAS3RJW
bluerobFull MemberSnaptoggles – it’s what Samsung provide in their mounting kits for plasterboard.
johnnersFree Memberor will it be a small gap between plasterboard and brick and i just need to find longer plugs and screws?
Don’t do that, your screws will just pull the plasterboard towards the brick. Nasty. If the wall’s dot and dab (tap it and you should find solid spots, but they will be blobs rather than lines as you’d get with studs) then a set of these will see you right for £6
twonksFull MemberAs Johnners says, get the Corefix plugs. I have those very ones holding up our 65″ plasma – and the 20KG of wood behind it.
Can pull the TV out on it’s bracket about 3 foot and the fixings don’t budge at all.
Also used them to hold up a bathroom cabinet, some shelves and a previous TV that weighed 50Kg+
takisawa2Full MemberLonger screws, through the plasterboard into the block work.
Before you put your plugs in inject some no more nails between the board & block in a circular motion, to fill the gap & strengthen it.daviekFull MemberI cut out 2 slots in the plasterboard and fixed a couple of 4×2 to the brickwork then screwed the plasterboard back on top. sizes for once worked out perfect without any jiggery pokery
sadexpunkFull MemberDon’t do that, your screws will just pull the plasterboard towards the brick. Nasty.
Longer screws, through the plasterboard into the block work.
Before you put your plugs in inject some no more nails between the board & block in a circular motion, to fill the gap & strengthen it.hmmm, conflicting advice, and some interesting links above, thank you.
ill work my way through them and see which one makes most sense, but in the meantime, and this may decide which way may be best, ive asked him to drill a pilot hole through the wall to see how far the bit goes before hitting solid brick. should then know what the gap is and be able to work out the best way forward.encouraging to see that theres so many options tho, thank you.
beagleFree MemberCame on to recommend those that Phil did. We have a few weighty things round the house with no issues whatsoever. The applicator gun makes it quite an enjoyable experience too 😁
phil5556Full MemberThe applicator gun makes it quite an enjoyable experience too
There’s a tool?? I just used an impact driver 🙂
nickdaviesFull MemberYou won’t have studs on an external wall, dot and dab will leave you a void. For a big plasma I’d use shield bolts (what I did) with a bit of luck you’ll be able to get a couple of them through a dab. If you can’t get through a dab then the plasterboard will compress, a couple of spacers around the bolt between tv bracket and wall will sort it, the tv fixing kits often come with them. Just putting longer/bigger screws in won’t help as the plasterboard flex will prevent the plug doing its job.
Corefix is the other option, I had everything I needed in the tool box but I’d probably try the corefix if I did it again, it’s a clever little system.
sadexpunkFull Memberok, gonna have to buy something this morning for him, so could i just get something straight in my head please?
can i now assume that theres no studwork as its an external wall, and that there’ll just be ‘blobs’ of plaster here there and everywhere behind the plasterboard?
and if so, what is the gap likely to be between board and brick?For a big plasma I’d use shield bolts (what I did) with a bit of luck you’ll be able to get a couple of them through a dab.
are shield bolts the same thing as these wall anchors linked to above ^^^? just a different name?
Longer screws, through the plasterboard into the block work.
Before you put your plugs in inject some no more nails between the board & block in a circular motion, to fill the gap & strengthen it.is this a heath robinson version of the corefix?
the corefix look as tho theyll be the strongest, but im not sure ive got a long enough 10mm drill bit, or even a masonry 10mm, altho i could go buy one too.
so….. if i go for an alternative, the shield bolts or ‘geefix’, then i assume theres no need to go into the brickwork, im relying on the strength of the plasterboard to hold a 65″ tv on it without dropping out and leaving a 65″ hole in the wall yep? 😀
will it? ok i get the anchors/geefix or whatever will be good enough, but will the plasterboard actually have the integrity to hold the weight?thanks
tjagainFull MemberPersonally I would want a better fixing than just into the plasterboard.
sadexpunkFull MemberPersonally I would want a better fixing than just into the plasterboard.
curse you TJ! 😀
twonksFull MemberI should have expanded a little on my comments about the corefix plugs.
Up until that point I’d tried 90% of the methods mentioned (apart from the other anchor bolts), including setting a piece of threaded bar into the blocks using chemical cement then spacing the void with nuts to give a solid stud anchor point for the TV bracket.
That worked perfectly, as did chopping out the plasterboard, fixing a batten to the wall and then the bracket to that.
However, the simplicity of the corefix is a single 10mm drill bit is all that’s needed. Have to make sure its a good one and that the drilling is relatively precise to avoid an oversized hole – but that’s the case for anything drilling into brick or blockwork.
edit- you could use something like the gripit system. Ive used these loads for partition walls and they are good. Trouble is they stand a fair amount away from the wall and when you have a proper wall to anchor to -you’d be daft not to imho.
johnnersFree MemberIf it’s dot and dab I still think Corefix is the most straightforward, and it’ll let you put the TV where you want it regardless of whether that leaves your bracket fixing points over a dab or a void. Hollow wall fixings will need you to hit a void with sufficient clearance or do some kind of fixings mix and match between hollow and solid. And like TJ, I’d be wanting to anchor into the wall rather than trust solely to plasterboard if I didn’t have to.
sadexpunkFull Memberthanks all, i think ive settled for corefix then, to include the strength of the brick/blockwork behind as a failsafe.
i do indeed have a 10mm drillbit, but the shank is only around 70mm long. anyone care to suggest the minimum length id need for these holes?
cheers
johnnersFree Memberanyone care to suggest the minimum length id need for these holes?
I used a 100/160 because it was the only 10mm I had. Your hole depth is going to be 100mm, I think you’d be cutting it fine with anything much shorter than 160 overall.
sadexpunkFull Membersorted, just done a click and collect at screwfix for the corefix and a longer 10mmx 200mm masonry bit, ill crack on with it this morning.
thanks a lot chaps
sadexpunkFull Memberaaaaaand, no good! 😀
wall marked out, first hole, drill goes through the plaster and doesnt stop. took pretty much all of my new 150mm length drill bit with nowt there, no wall.
tried a few more of the marked holes, same, just one of them felt resistance, and looked through the hole to see wood.
so, its studwork of some sort, but got to be about 6″ or so off the brick/blocks. why would this be? all we can think of is insulation, will that be it?
and as corefix is now out of the running (ill see if i can get a refund from screwfix), we look to be back to a choice of either a choice of fixing that relies on the plasterboards strength (heavy old tv and bracket, not convinced), or finding some way of using the wooden studwork, which was scotroutes first reply.
Find the studs. Stick up a couple of battens across them. Mount TV to them.
EDIT: just looked at specs, tv and bracket weigh about 32kg combined.
cogglepinFull MemberSounds like someone has built a dry lined wall over the original, sometimes done if the walls were old and they wanted a better finish or they had damp.
What I would do is cut a hole in the plasterboard the same size as a double dry lining box where the tv will cover it. Then you should be able to find where the wooden joists are. Fasten the bracket to the joists with standard wood screws, get plenty in and it will be fine.
No way would I fit a 65” tv to just the plasterboard.sadexpunkFull MemberWhat I would do is cut a hole in the plasterboard the same size as a double dry lining box where the tv will cover it. Then you should be able to find where the wooden joists are. Fasten the bracket to the joists with standard wood screws, get plenty in and it will be fine.
by a double dry lining box do you mean an electrical socket? not sure why….. do you just mean to look behind the plasterboard, then when youve worked out where joists are, fit a leccy box to make it look pretty, even tho its not needed?
why not just use a stud detector?and early indications are, if the studs are spaced 600mm (ive googled it) from the one weve found by drilling, then they wont fall in the right place for the bracket.
bluddy nightmare this innit 😀twonksFull MemberWell that’s a bit of a nuisance for you!
With that sort of distance from wall to brick I’d investigate sinking the whole tv in and mounting it close to the wall behind. A much bigger job of course, but would look great sunk into the wall with a proper surround – could put lighting behind and make it look real flash.
Think I’d want to look further in to see why it is so far away and also how the joists are located and secured. If they are solid, you could make a metal frame to span the joists on the outside of the wall and mount the TV bracket to that through some tapped holes. Could secure the metal plate to the plasterboard using gripfix as well as to the joists with conventional screws.
A bit of work but easier than messing about behind the plasterboard.
Think I’d still take a section out to see what’s going on.
mosFull MemberGoogle rigifix wall fixings. They are amazing. Big plug through plasterboard into brickwork, tighten an 8mm bolt into the plug so it sits flush with the plasterboard then an m6 bolt screws into that.
I was amazed with them.toemulFree MemberI’m sure if you ask where your studds are peeps on here will know. 😁But more importantly where was the picture outside a shop with some sort of jester statue?
nickdaviesFull MemberSounds very weird. If you can get two decent bolts into the timber then 2 heavy duty metal plasterboard fixings on the plasterboard that should be fine.
My zwift tv is old and very heavy, it’s got 3 plasterboard fixings and 1 decent bolt into timber and it’s fine.
Although I’d be wanting the 6” of floor space back… and getting the sledgehammer out….
oldnpastitFull MemberI used some of those screwfix fixings for my 65″ tv. They’re not going anywhere anytime soon.
tonyf1Free MemberI’ve done exactly the same project a couple of weeks. I used Amazon own brand (Basics) hanging kit which has a built in spirit level and Fischer Duoblade and Duopower plugs which I’d researched on Internet.
Method I used was drill through plasterboard with 6mm and if don’t hit a batten screw in a Doublade and if a batten push in a Duopower. Both are absolutely fantastic products as they clamp the fixing to the back of the plasterboard as you insert the screw into the plug. This is important as the load will not be straight down and normal fixing will simply pull out the wall over time.
Total job took 20 minutes start to finish and I’m a bit cack handed.
johnnersFree MemberJust checked back on this thread and, well, so much for my relentless advocacy for Corefix then! Though tbf working out what kind of wall you were fixing to should have been the first thing you (or, gasp! your son) did.
I’d go wall anchor then as the next easiest option, and I’d use a setting tool in spite of some of the above advice saying you can get away without. Since you’ve apparently got loads of room behind the plasterboard I’d go long, like 52mm because they’re stronger and well, why not? All that assuming your plasterboard is sound and dry and standard thickness.
If I was really paranoid or I wanted to fit a swinging bracket I’d maybe look at these Geefix things, but I’ve never used them myself.
sadexpunkFull Memberi asked him about sinking into the wall, but its not their house its rented, so he says they wouldnt be allowed to do that.
gut feeling is that nickdavies suggestion above ^^^ will be the way forward, a compromise of 2 big old solid plugs and screws into the wood, and then 6 of them Geefix jobbies into the plasterboard.
it would indeed be helpful to know what studding is there and how its been built up, but we’re just having no luck with our detectors. he borrowed one from a mate which does leccy and metal only, no studs, and mine which i bought second hand just seems to go mental, flashing red all the time, wherever its swiped. does this on the stud and leccy settings. recalibrated and still the same. not having much luck…..
thanks
johnnersFree Membera compromise of 2 big old solid plugs and screws into the wood, and then 6 of them Geefix jobbies into the plasterboard.
I’m all for safety but that seems a bit excessive tbh, 4 mounting points should be plenty if they’re done properly. And why would you be using plugs if you’re screwing into wood, or have I misunderstood that?
sadexpunkFull MemberI’m all for safety but that seems a bit excessive tbh, 4 mounting points should be plenty if they’re done properly. And why would you be using plugs if you’re screwing into wood, or have I misunderstood that?
im thinking that excessive is ‘safer’, no? as we’re a bit windy about the weight of this setup, 32kg on the plasterboard, isnt it a case of the more mounting points the better?
and i think we’d not want the whole weight being supported by plasterboard only, the fact that weve found what we think is around a 6″ stud in one place means thats more strength. 2 screws into the wood, then 6 geefix points?
would you not use plugs into wood then, only masonry? im thinking that a 10mm plug and screw where the screw has expanded the plug against the wood is better than just a screw into wood, is that not the case?
thanks
nickdaviesFull Member2 plasterboard fixings will be fine, especially if it’s not cantilevered out.
Don’t plug wood, decent size bolts and pilot hole it first.
binmanFull MemberContemplating on fixing a spare old 37″ plasma screen to the plasterboarded wall in the kitchen (could be dot and dab to brick) as it seems a shame to throw it out. Happy with solid walls or lighter screens, but this thread has been really useful ! Thanks all.
sadexpunkFull Memberespecially if it’s not cantilevered out.
it is cantilevered, its this one…..
although the idea is to have it pushed back as far as itll go, and then just pull out to swap hdmi/xbox cables etc….
johnnersFree Memberim thinking that excessive is ‘safer’, no?
Severely diminishing returns, but why draw the line at 8 fixings? Why not 12 or 16? Have a watch of this if you can be bothered. Bear in mind he’s testing axial loads, most of a bracket load will be shear.
As nick says, don’t plug wood. You only plug things you can’t screw into directly.
sadexpunkFull MemberHave a watch of this if you can be bothered
i did indeed watch it, and also noted he said dont be going hanging anything heavy like radiators off these 😀
As nick says, don’t plug wood. You only plug things you can’t screw into directly.
noted, thanks.
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