1x now dropping chain

I’ve been running 1×10 for around 6 months on my hardtail and have ridden just over 2000 miles on it – pretty much on roads, tarmac and well surfaced bridleways so the drivetrain hasn’t been hammered with much mud and grime.

Over the last few weeks the chain has been falling off the chainring onto the pedal when I go fast over rough ground but only when freewheeling with the chain in the smallest cog at the back. I’m assuming the ‘thick-thin-ness’ of the Race Face chainring has started to wear so isn’t holding the chain as well as before.

I had originally set the chain length to be correct for a 36t ring, quickly swapped to a 34t but didn’t shorten the chain. If I shorten the chain a bit would this improve retention, or is it time to replace the chainring?

Rear mech is a clutch Zee and I’m not running a chain device.

First up check the clutch is “on” on the mech.

Then check the chain for wear. Most likely worn past the 75% limit. If not then shorten it to the correct length.

If worn, then new chain and the correct length.

Possible that cos the chain now effectively is two links too long the tension in the rear mech (clutch or not) isn’t enough to hold it on over bumps. That and a bit of chain stretch and wear on the chainring all adds up.

You can pop a couple of links out easy enough though to see.

I’m assuming the ‘thick-thin-ness’ of the Race Face chainring has started to wear so isn’t holding the chain as well as before.

Does it look like it has?
Check the chain growth
Check the ring
Check the clutch is on and still works

Thanks for the info. The clutch is on – not sure how to tell if it still works though?

There is still a definite difference between the thick and the thin teeth, just can’t tell if they’ve both lost a bit of thickness. Does the actual thickness matter or is it more important that there is still a difference between the thick teeth and the thin?

I had originally set the chain length to be correct for a 36t ring, quickly swapped to a 34t but didn’t shorten the chain. If I shorten the chain a bit would this improve retention, or is it time to replace the chainring?

77 Designz Freesolo – The World’s Lightest Chainguide?

20 grams….

I like the look of that chain device, but I don’t have an ISCG frame.

I’m wondering if I should just put on a new thick-thin chainring. Superstar are doing them for only £25 which is almost as cheap as their chain devices anyway.

Zac, do you have a direct mount for a front mech? They do one for that.

TBH I would never ride without at least a front guide….had a few OTBs because of dropped chains.

The clutch is on – not sure how to tell if it still works though?

Grab hold of the cage and see how easy it is to move.
As for how thick the teeth should be it’s easier to tell if you have a new ring to compare too. The thickness of the thick is important.
Check the chain growth though, the tool is a great investment as you can change before it’s too late.

Narrow wide do wear quickly (in relative terms) so yes that will have an effect for sure 2000miles is probably the limit for most NW rings, some much less! For chain wear, simply pull the chain off the front of the ring. If you can get more than a mm of ‘air’ you can see through between chain and ring by simply lifting it, then its new chain time.

It will most likely be chain ring wear. Slightly to large chain isn’t helping, but you will still need a new chain ring.

Is the chain worn, if so replace.

The Bionicon Eco chain device attaches to the chain stay and does a good job.

One chain ring should outlast several chains so I would check the chain first and also shorten to correct length – sounds like its on the way out though expect to replace the chain soon.

2000 miles on a chain can see them wear enough to need replacing but I would be disappointed if a chain ring only lasted that long.