Actually, many climbers here?

Found myself back at indoor climbing (Ratho) and should be moving outside soon enough.

Would be good to see some inspirational photos, and also and suggestions for crags with plenty of VD to HS options within an hour of Edinburgh/Dunfermline way.

One here! I’m on the other coast so far from an expert but have enjoyed Hawkcrag and Limekilns in that neck of the woods.

You’ve also got Rosyth Quarry but I’ve never been there. Have a look on UKC for pictures.

I can lean out of a window and see Silver Sands so Hawkscraigs is eyed up. Its about a 20 minute walk.

Great fun bouldering there!

The two best climbing venues reasonably close to Edinburgh are Dunkeld and Northumberland. Both however are slightly more than an hour away and both are a fairly hardcore; if you manage to climb a certain grade at those places you can probably comfortably manage the same grade anywhere else in the country.

Not really the right grade but suitably inspirational I think. Lady Charlotte at Dunkeld

Look at those trousers, LOOK AT THEM!

Yes, 1988, everyone wanted to look like Andy Pollitt. “The Fat Boy” as a A Class pretty boy just about pulls that off 🙂

Although theres a fair bit of serious grades at Dunkeld theres also a reasonable amount of more realistic options for me.

Is the rock generally fairly solid, need much drying out on the less serious routes?

I also didnt know there was sport climbing there.

Routes to do would be Beech Wall, Cuticle Crack, Hogg’s Hindquarters and The Hood. The rock is pretty solid, dries quickly but footholds are often slopey or inobvious so a bit of a learning curve if you’ve only ever climbed indoors. I was never much of a sports climber but I rated the Upper Cave Crag routes as the best in Scotland, they really suited a weakling like me as there are lots of footholds.

We used to wear some bizarre garb back in the 70s too. Jeans rolled up the knee (John Allen’s fault I think). Loons (the widest flappiest flares you can image) – had to develop a certain style to flick them off the the toe of your EBs to see where you were placing your foot.

I still have a pair of candy stripe Troll Jesters in the wardrobe and some luminous yellow Ron Hills.

within an hour of Edinburgh/Dunfermline way.

If you can stretch that timescale a little the there is excellent single pitch cragging in Northumberland. Kyloe Crag has some excellent routes at the grades you mentioned.

crags with plenty of VD to HS options

If you can get away for a weekend then Crag Lough and Peel Crag in Northumberland are 2 of the best single pitch crags for those grades in the whole country.

Auchinstarry is quite good for “step out the car” at that grade.
Dunkeld is awesome, great rock and mostly superb protection. Polney crag is the best for the grades you mention. Try Kestrel Crack, Holly Tree Grove and Beech Wall as already mentioned. The groove has always been one of my favourites You’ll be doing well to get more than 3 routes in a day due to the faff of abbing down or a long walk. Feels like a good adventure though, particularly Hoggs Hindquaters which is quite unique!

Google tells me that Loudon Hill is about 1hr 20min from Dunfermline, its also excellent at the grades you mentioned.

See those Scarpa boots up there in the photo of Lady Charlotte? Guess who’s still wearing an identical pair each week at the Wolverhampton wall… yup that’ll be me 🙋

Those Northumbrian crags look superb, do they tend to be quiet?

Just finsihed a session at Ratho which involved repeatedly jumping off which was entertaining in a way. Belayer was quite a lot lighter too so had a fair amount of drop.

There’s a lovely little bolted crag at Bennybeg just west of Crieff, grades from 3+ to 6a Here

There’s a lovely little bolted crag at Bennybeg just west of Crieff, grades from 3+ to 6a Here

Cracking cafe next to it too….

Those Northumbrian crags look superb, do they tend to be quiet?

Peel Crag and Crag Lough are pretty quiet with climbers, we had a day at each a few summers back and only saw one other climber. They are absolutely rammed with tourists though as Hadrian’s wall runs across the top. They really are absolutely first rate in the easier grades. Good campsite at Winsheilds too.

The other Northumberland crags are a bit mixed. Kyloe can be popular but I’ve never seen it unpleasantly so. Bowden gets busy but mainly with boulderers.

Is that Northumberland “popular” or Stanage “popular”?

Northumberland is generally less busy than the Peak. Away from a handful of honeypot* crags it’s pretty quiet full stop.

*both Kyloes and both Bowdens mostly. Even these rarely get unpleasantly busy.

OK, what’s the photo posting trick now? I thought I had it sorted but it isn’t working.

Hmm, seems to be working now. Those are a few from the Fisherfield area weekend before last.

Carnmore bothy? That’s a long walk in wearing those heels…

That’s some set of pics Spin!
(And yes, the back story to the shoes must just be a joker…surely?)

Carnmore bothy?

Yes, still a shithole you’ll see but it served a purpose for that trip.

Is it sad to recognise the bothy from its interior?
My clue was this
Same piccy, I think

Is it sad to recognise the bothy from its interior?
My clue was this
Same piccy, I think

Is that the link you meant to post? It takes me to a moor in Wales.

Love Fisherfield. Amazing place. Great photos.

@spin Sorry, only just seen that reply.
Nope, I meant this photo
(a ‘preview post’ feature would help)

I shouldn’t be excited about buying a rope, but I am.

Whats the score with climbing guides these days, books, apps or website? Or all 3?

Might as well ask here… Got to leave car in glencoe for a few days. Best at kingshouse or at the ski centre?

A paper copy of a climbing guide should live in your cludgie. Studying said guide is the perfect relaxent for the bowels I find.

Got to leave car in glencoe for a few days. Best at kingshouse or at the ski centre?

Ski centre and stick a few quid in the camper honesty box. I would have though KH would be more for hotel customers and very little skiing so plenty space at Glencoe Mountain.

I dont know what a cludgie is, but it sounds like soneone books shouldnt be put into

Ski centre and stick a few quid in the camper honesty box. I would have though KH would be more for hotel customers and very little skiing so plenty space at Glencoe Mountain.

👍

I dont know what a cludgie is, but it sounds like soneone books shouldnt be put into

It’s where climbers retire for a relaxed sit down.

It’s where climbers retire for a relaxed sit down.

Climbers guide in the cludgie, in the Cluanie Inn after a day on Càrn nan Gobhar?