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Realistically does anyone actually gaf about hacking movements?
I don't care much, the only watches I set to the second are quartz and tbh that's a bit ott for everyday purposes.
Next there’ll be some bullshit about sapphire being better than acrylic and then we’ll know someone’s read too much W&W.
Depends - I wouldn't want sapphire on my MRW-200, but I also wouldn't want acrylic on my Kamasu.
Rummaging through my "bits box" and found an unopened Renata 371 cell.
Scurfa Diver One fired up for minimal expense. This is on the silicon strap it comes with..
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The light is extra!
EDIT:
Here's the lovely blue lume:
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Crafter Blue strap arrived for my Turtle this morning. Love the ends moulded for the case so no more gap! Vulcanised rubber so it’s not stretchy like FKM or silicone and really nice quality for the money.
…. and yes the bezel doesn’t line up in standard Seiko poor QC
I have a CB strap on my Samurai Save the Ocean. Not cheap but bloody brilliant quality and fit.
Yeah I’ve bought loads of cheaper ones that weren’t quite right. Should’ve just spent the money on one of these in the first place!
I like these restoration videos. There are a few people who do them.
Ended up taking the crafter blue off my Samurai. It felt too stiff and always seemed to want to hover over the top of my wrist. I suspect with my wrist on the smaller side, the angle it left the case was a bit too steep.
+1 the restoration videos. Glass of wine, feet up, tiny cogs, all good.
I like the Scurfa watches, almost bought one 3yrs ago but bought a cheaper phoibos dive style watch which is perfectly ok, tells the time...shoulda bought a scurfa though.
oh my god, no idea how much patience you need for this restores - look like a few days work for each one - brilliant stuff
Has anyone got any experience getting valuations for their watches for insurance purposes?
Despite being insured for many years, my insurers are now asking for a valuation within 30 days. Nothing I enjoy more than being assigned work.
<img src="<img src="https://i.ibb.co/DkbKDKr/IMG-20220127-121035-Bokeh-01.jpg" alt="IMG-20220127-121035-Bokeh-01" border="0" />" alt="bb" />
A bit of a treat. Got a compensation payment for a cyclist v car that happened almost 4 years ago. Rest of it's going into savings, but couldn't resist something nice.
Edit: I'll never remember how to post images, but link at least seems to work.
Nice choice. Black Bay's are handsome watches. I still fancy the GMT I keep passing over
Very nice, best colour too
Edit: I’ll never remember how to post images, but link at least seems to work.
Just post the bit that starts https and ends Jpg into the image box. Easy.
😂 easy when you know how! Thanks tthew, you've saved me the job. I'll know for next time.
Nice Black Bay!
Loved that video, its also given me an insight to what's happening with mine at Calibre currently, I'm always amazed at all the workings.
Plyphon, ask the insurer what they accept, does it need to be an accredited assay office like Goldsmiths, Hatton garden, or something from an authorised dealer or an independent jeweller? B there's even an online service that I think ment insurers accept for lots of stuff (depending on the value.)
Lovely BB. The blue is definitely my favourite colour.
Last time I had my watch valued, I just took it into the AD and they looked up the model and gave me a mini certificate saying it's replacement value RRP. That was a tenner.
Thanks neilnevill, cb200 - I'll have to find out what they accept. I'll do that today.
Good tip going into the AD. A tenner is about what I'd expect to pay! I've seen some places quoting £60 per item or even some asking for a percentage of the items worth!
Getting temptations again... I feel like something flashy, ready for a much awaited summer. Looking at Rolex for a 2-3 year hold, and hesitate between the Milgauss 116400gv-0002, which must be discontinued soon as one of the last with a 3100-series movement. Or go full on 80s chest rug with the two-tone Bluesy 126613lb-0002? I think I prefer the latter on a RubberB, to save the excessive bracelet scratching.
the Milgauss has a lot going for it, in terms of the dial and use of colour, but that second hand is a munter.
That Milgaus is lovely. That'd be the Rolex I'd have or the boggo, (if any Rolex can be thought of as such) Oyster Perpetual. I seem to have settled on sports watches as my preferred style to divers.
I'm liking the Milgauss too. I pulled the trigger on this a couple of weeks ago.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/194662821@N02/51822419414/in/dateposted /" alt="GMT Master" />
Awaiting image post failure.
I do actually work on a nuclear research base, and although I don't have clearance for the 'hot' areas, the story holds at least. The Milgauss has to be put on a silly strap I think, blue or orange. The Bluesy needs toning down unless you're actually in Miami. I'm not keen on PCLs generally but, looking out the window at the grey, I really fancy a piece that will have the magpies (avian, not criminal) circling. I'd use my Pelagos for actual wet activities. I had an OP white/silver dial in 2020 but sold it last autumn. It was the most accurate watch I had but it got boring quite quickly. In terms of a flip though, you can find people asking €65k for the OP41 baby blue, a €5750 watch, on C24! Lowest offers are high 20ks, so presumably anything lower is selling! The order seems to be: baby blue, yellow/red, green, dark blue, silver, black. All bonkers.
This seems a good thread for brain picking….
Ive inherited my dads omega polaris, can anyone recommend a site to sell it on… ebay feels a bit hit and miss.
Id rather an Omega Aquaterra 15000 gauss. Or a used Railmaster if looking for an 'engineers' watch thats anti magnetic.
The Milgauss is just so uninspiring, boring if you will.....
I do actually work on a nuclear research base
Not sure I'd be telling a load of random strangers on t'Internet that but I'm sure you know best...
That Sub is a bit bright for my taste. Both the shiny bracelet and the blue. I like the classic black dial/stainless bracelet combo as it's a bit understated though obv a bit more 'common' (read popular)
I've been through the Omega line and there's not much I like at present. The Constellation annual calendar looks nice but wears huge. Seamaster 300s can be nice but nothing stand out. Speedmasters... just sold a FOIS a few months ago. The AQs do nothing for me.
Agreed that the Milgauss probably isn't the way forward. I grew up in Dorset, not in but associated to a yachtie crowd, so the Bluesy could be an ironic-not-ironic tip of the hat to my yoof. I guess it depends on wait times, no way I go grey.
@boblo, why? No weapons there (apart from the guards). I said I have no access to restricted areas. Maybe I'm just a janitor!
As for the black Sub Date, sure, much better for daily wear but that's not what I'm looking for.
@scrumfled, I'm not familiar with that model but I can find two on C24 - https://www.chrono24.fr/omega/ref-3861231.htm#gref. I've sold quite few watches there and never had problems. They take 6% with no minimum and the system seems to work well.
Thought I’d post this, for those who appreciate ultimate watch engineering, at truly mind-buggering prices; as in you could buy a house for that!
https://www.fratellowatches.com/audemars-piguet-open-worked-royal-oak-j/
Going back to my remark about having a hackable movement in the SPORK, and others responding with it doesn’t really matter; I was thinking about this earlier today, and it’s perfectly true; I have found a way to ‘hack’ it, by putting the minute hand just past the time required just as the second hand passes 12 o’clock, then carefully winding the minute hand backwards. With care, the second hand will move back, and can be paused at 12 o’clock, and the minute hand placed just before the required time; as the reference time comes up moving the minute hand to the correct time releases the second hand. I can now set the time to the second without too much effort, takes a bit of practice but it’s not much different to a proper hacking movement. Hand-winding after a period of not being used might be nice, but again, it’s really not that important. I checked the accuracy this morning, after a week of wearing the SPORK, and it’s gained 21 seconds, pretty much three seconds a day! Not bad for a £250 watch.
I can get some of my non-hacking movements to set by letting them run down and then winding as the real time approaches the seconds hand time. Varies from movement to movement. The 1861 in my Omega FOIS was almost instant. My ETA 6498-1 deck watch needs 1-2s of winding before the second hand moves. Vostok, not sure, hardly seems worth it!!
I went MTBing today for the first time in months. I did a mere 22 km with 330 climbing and one fall in the mud. I wore my G-Shock Square, so we're all good on that front. Now collapsed on sofa.
Interesting point about wearing a watch while riding. I don't as I'm ultra anal about not marking any of my watches, even my G-Shock which is pretty much indestructible. I know there's another view that a well worn watch is a good thing and the scratches are a good thing.
Anyone else do everything thay can to avoid them though?
If I could afford it, the bluesy! Or a smurf... In white gold. The bluesy on rubber is a great look imo.
@bullet, I wear my Explorer 1 daily and yes, it's getting marks. I take it off for certain activities, and on my desk I rest my left wrist on a cloth to reduce damage but not eliminate it.
@neilnevill, I'm not keen on the new Smurf with the black dial (as though it were a possibility LOL) and didn't like the last one because of the super case. Same with the Hulk vs Cermit. I could have bought a Sub back in 2012/13 but decided against it and went for the Tudor BB. I don't have perfect memory of the decision but I wanted the more classic look (BB bigger I grant) and must have instinctively not liked the super case back then. I'm not sure what I'd do if the AD offered me a Cermit. Stupid to turn it down financially but it doesn't appeal to me.
It's a tricky dilemma I'm sure we all face at least monthly. 🤪
I know my place in the pecking order, no way I could get a Daytona (which I also don't like!). 😀
Anyone else do everything thay can to avoid them though?
Yep, including not liking any of much watches any more except for the Arnie, so they are all tucked away in a box.
I discovered two disappointing things about a watch I want at the weekend, which is this:
a) Its £33,000 and will never grace my presence
b) Its only 50m WR, I mean seriously wtf....
Still, we can all have a dream eh?
Used to wear the Sub, even mountain biking until i got the SMP300.
Wear the SMP all the time now generally even on the bike and other pursuits. The SMP is a 36mm so less weight on the wrist and main reason for the switch.
Wear the SMP generally unless doing an endurance ride, then switch to the Casio as less wear on my wrist.
I dont tend to bash the watches to be fair so getting them damaged isnt a concern. From the 6 years continuous wearing the Sub before the SMP came along, theres very little marks.
Summary, i dont change watches in case i damage the watch, i only change it to stop irritation on my skin.
@kryton57 its only 50m?? Id have thought more..... even the Patek is 30m.
"Its £33,000"... now it ain't! Prices starting at €68k for mere after market mortals (link).
Yup, they are only 50m resistant. But if you're that wealthy surely you can just buy another one if you damage it 😀
Ok, well thats what it said here, but maybe thats mates rates or some unobtainable price for normal humans...