More cars have passive tpms than actual pressure measuring versions as all the hardware required is already there (abs sensors). A little bit of software is a cheap value add.
@roverpig - I can confirm modern kias have specific tpms sensors inside the wheels - well attached to the valves inside the rims. My 4 spare wheels had them already......and once I get them actually fitted to the car I'll tell you if it just works! Info online was very vague.
If it does work, I'll happily share the part number with you - not cheap mind if you have to buy them. There are generic ones you can buy much cheaper but no idea if they work the same - I went with the logic of at least ones on OEM rims must be programmed to talk Kia if that's a thing.
I am fine with fitting the wheels. The faff is moving the car to the right spot, getting the jack out, chocking appropriately, fannying about with the jack adapters, in the case of the Merc it needs to go on blocks before the jack will go under it so they have to be set right, then it's clearing up the garage to get at the wheels, man-handling them about and then putting everything away again. Faff.
Really? Faff? Takes about 30 minutes to do the whole thing, start to finish. Even on my last car (which i couldn't get the jack under).
Will be doing mine and my neighbours tomorrow morning.
I lose about 5% in MPG over the summer tyres, in similar conditions.
But surely the car isn't used in similar conditions on the Summer tyres in warmer conditions, it'll start leaner, warm up quicker, be used on drier roads, less ancillary and light use... .
The best guestimate in the difference in fuel economy I could find on the Net for the difference between my Conti Summers (A) and full Winter Alpin 7 (C) was 3.4% - that's between an "eco" Summer tyre and one of the grippiest Winter tyres you can buy. German tests, Autobild or ADAC. However if you add the difference in the cost of fuel over the life of the tyres and the fact the full Winters only last half as long (higher wear rate and changing them earlier because Winters at the legal limit are pointless) I'll admit it's not a cheap choice.
I agree changing doesn't take long - an hour or so even using the opportunity to check brake pads, hoses, drive shafts, suspension parts.
Winter tires and tpms sensor solution round here.
Bloody hell good or bloody hell bad?
That sounds incredibly cheap. Let us know what the car's like.
But surely the car isn't used in similar conditions on the Summer tyres in warmer conditions
Yes, but it doesn't suddenly become winter the moment you swap tyres. Plus these tyres are all seasons so have been used in a variety of conditions at various times of the year. The summer wheels I bought off eBay need straightening so they came off about September time.
eBay/amazon...all over . i got a pair for about £11 and it makes changing the wheels a breeze as they don't fall off or need lining up!
Google "wheel bolt hanger"
DrP
That's given the same/similar weather/conditions.
But surely the car isn't used in similar conditions on the Summer tyres in warmer conditions, it'll start leaner, warm up quicker, be used on drier roads, less ancillary and light use... .I get about a month each end of the winter tyre season where i can use either, weather is broadly similar, so i can at least get 3-4000 km of comparison twice a year. The last 3 ICE cars i've had have been easy as they have all done almost exactly 1000 km when the fuel fill light comes on. And then taken a very consistent amount of fuel to refill. i probably even had greater than 75% of the time filling up at the same pump...
RE changing wheels.. I find the best thing is to rent a garage at silverstone race track.. lovely smooth floor, and I feel like an F1 pit crew...
Easy 😉
DrP
Thanks @convert. I’ve not found anything specific to the EV3 yet but found a few reports online of people swapping wheels on a Kia Soul and eNiro and both just picked up the new sensors automatically, so hopefully you’ll be fine.
Doubt there is really any difference between Kia sensors and generic ones (it’s an open standard I think) but manufacturers love to find ways of forcing you to use their parts so I’d also probably stump up for the “proper” ones to be on the safe side.
With TPMS sensors, do you just stick a set in and the car works it out or is there some programming of the car required so it knows what sensor is on what wheel?
I had a set of winter wheels for my Focus, which has TPMS sensors inside the wheel attached to the valves. The car has to be programmed to recognise the wheels every time they are swapped. The owners forum said you can a get a magnet on eBay that resets them, but it didn't work. I bought an electronic gadget, a bit like a TV remote, point it at the valves in turn and the car recognises them.
My winter wheels were aftermarket, maybe the Ford wheels have some extra support around the valve hole, because the weight of the TMPS sensors caused leaks around the valves. Every winter I would need to get at least one valve rebuilt, local tyre place charged £45 each. It was ironic that the only times I ever had the TPMS warn of low pressure were because of leaks caused by the TPMS. When the tyres needed changing I sold the wheels and went to CC2.
These look perfect. Right up to the bit where they say “it might not actually work and we take no responsibility if it doesn’t” 😀
@roverpig , knowing you like the detail, have you done a breakdown of likely costs, based on your mainly home cheap charging, of the likely increase in cost of buying and running CrossClimate 2 for their full life, say 20k miles, vs the cost and faff time of winter wheels and tyres, changing them over etc ?
I’d be surprised if the CCs would cost you any additional, plus I can’t imagine there would be more than a very small handful of occasions over the life of the tyres when they wouldn’t do the job well enough on your regular driving in the NE.
^^ with my EV3 on largely home charging, bar a few uk holidays where I use fast chargers, I reckon for my close to 15k miles per annum, my overall electricity charging costs are a bit under £500 a year.
When my original tyres need replacing in about a year, I’ll put on CrossClimates or equivalent, which I expect may cost around £150 overall more than new summer tyres for supply and fit. If they last me say 18 months, and I see a drop in efficiency of 10%, I’ll have paid an extra £75 max in electricity. It’s a no brainer for me, living in often icy and snowy hilly south lanarkshire, as I have not had a single driving day in the past 5 years when we couldn’t get out and about in a 2WD car with CrossClimates all round.
knowing you like the detail,
That's me 😀
have you done a breakdown of likely costs,
No, but I'm sure you are right. There is no way that I could justify "winter wheels" on a cost basis. It comes down to our old friend range though and a reluctance to do anything that compromises that.
Fitting CC2s to my 19" wheels will probably reduce range (compared to the current summer tyres on the same wheels). Getting an accurate number for that reduction is almost impossible, but going from an A rated tyre to a B rated one must affect range if the ratings have any value at all.
Decreasing wheel diameter apparently increases range though. Although, again, reliable numbers are almost impossible to find. So, theoretically, I could drop to 17" wheels, fit CC2s and still have pretty much the same range as summer tyres on my current 19" wheels.
Does any of this matter though? That's the question I can't answer given the lack of reliable data.
As you probably know, for those of us who can charge at home, I don't really think it makes sense to think of range as a number. It's more binary. You either have enough or you don't and if you have enough then more isn't really any better. I've done just over 10,000 miles in the EV3 now and never once had to stop because the car needed a charge. Not even close really. It has always got to wherever I've wanted to stop quite easily. I suspect I could lose 5% range and not even notice. It's not as though I've ever got close to the last 5%. But there is still that reluctance to do something that I know is going to reduce the range just in case it does tip me past that point where range suddenly starts to be an issue.
Unless my neighbours kibosh me with charger location (I'd need to lay a cable from my house to my garage, under their drive/on their property), I'll likely be ordering a Kia PV5 Cargo this week...
15k miles, 24 months, £3k deposit, £259pm....
If they were offering a tailgate (rather than barndoors) from launch I'd probably just be buying one out right at £33k OTR, but I don't want to commit to barn-doors until I know they work ok for me.
When they gave me the quote I actually asked 'how little?!' having just been to a VW dealer asking about a Buzz Cargo haha...
Well, just done my winter swap, went out at 10:17.
Cursed a few times as i forgot that both kids have had new furniture this summer so the corner of the garage where the wheels sit is under about 60 kilos of IKEAs finest cardboard boxes. So took me a while to get the bits together!
Was back in the house after fitting all four wheels, tyre pressure checked, wheel nuts tweaked (torque wrench @140Nm), in time for my 11 am meeting.
Just have to go and tidy up a bit. Will give the wheels a clean next time the jetwash comes out.
Weird double post deleted
But there is still that reluctance to do something that I know is going to reduce the range just in case it does tip me past that point where range suddenly starts to be an issue.
Range anxiety is real….. but it isn’t “will I be able to go 270 miles or 300?” That’s a problem that is easily solvable on the fly by stopping and charging
Proper range anxiety is “Will I make it up this steep hill with these tyres?” That’s a problem that, in the moment, will likely prove to be literally intractable.
That extra hundred yards that the all season tyres will buy you up that hill are potentially infinitely more valuable than the extra few miles that keeping summer tyres might buy you.
I’d trade 20 useless miles for a hundred crucial yards every single time.
Winter tires and tpms sensor solution round here.
That was my approach with the BMW.
In the 10 years I've had cars with tyre pressure sensors on, I've only had 1 puncture, but the sensors have triggered maybe 20 times - not a great false positive ratio that.
Fitting CC2s to my 19" wheels will probably reduce range (compared to the current summer tyres on the same wheels). Getting an accurate number for that reduction is almost impossible, but going from an A rated tyre to a B rated one must affect range if the ratings have any value at all.
I can tell you that CC2 made absolutely no difference at all compared to the EV-specific things my Model 3 came with. Full winter tyres have a small impact, but it's in the region 5% and I'm happy to accept that in exchange for being stuck properly to the road in cold weather.
I could lose 5% range and not even notice.
The range thing is weird - and as a home charger, oddly I've started not sweating the small stuff....because charging at home is so bloomin cheap!
For example - I've not taken my roof bars and boat cradles off since August even though I've only used the boat half a dozen times and the car is in use every day. I thought I'd be doing it every time I used the boat...and I probably should but.....it must be costing pennies where as on an ICE it would be costing pounds.
And.....if I nail it the last few miles to the house up the hill and the efficiency drops to <2.0 miles/kWh for the whole drive home, it hurts my pocket far less than doing the same in an ICE and going <20mpg.
I thought I was going to be a lot more worried about driving efficiency when I switched but oddly I've gone the other way. Different I guess when doing a longer trip and a bit of efficiency means I can do it in one charge (time and £££) rather than two.
That's handy. I swap the tyres on several cars a couple times a year for the last 20 years so I'm pretty good at it now.
The thing you absolutely must get right on a big EV is finding the correct jacking points, though normally it's easy to work out.
I've not taken my roof bars and boat cradles off since August
The noise of roof bars irritates me, so that's why I remove mine as soon as I can.
Different I guess when doing a longer trip and a bit of efficiency means I can do it in one charge (time and £££) rather than two
Perhaps but in that scenario remember you don't need a full half hour stop, just 5 mins is enough.
Proper range anxiety is “Will I make it up this steep hill with these tyres?” That’s a problem that, in the moment, will likely prove to be literally intractable.
Fair point, but I'm not questioning the need to put better tyres on over the winter (that's a given). It's whether I run slightly lower efficiency tyres all year round vs switching twice a year (or some fiendishly cunning plan of reducing wheel size to allow the same range on all season tyres).
I can tell you that CC2 made absolutely no difference at all compared to the EV-specific things my Model 3 came with.
Interesting. Thanks.
I thought I was going to be a lot more worried about driving efficiency when I switched but oddly I've gone the other way. Different I guess when doing a longer trip and a bit of efficiency means I can do it in one charge (time and £££) rather than two.
Yes, I'm in a similar camp, although obviously not quite there yet 😀All that matters is whether I can complete my planned journey. I guess I should care about efficiency really, but with overnight charging at 7p/kwh it's hard to care about a small drop as long as I am easily going to make it back home.
Even on a long trip I don't really care about efficiency that much. I just care that the car can go at least 150 miles between stops as that's my stomach/bladder range. If I have to add a few more kwh while I'm enjoying my sticky bun or whatever then I don't really care. It charges faster the lower the state of charge so it doesn't really make a noticeable difference to the time I'm stopped. The car is pretty much always ready to carry on before I am. Yes, it will cost me a few quid extra, but since I charge at home at least 90% of the time I'm not so fussed about a few quid extra that it might cost on the odd long trip. It's irrelevant compared with the thousands that I save in "fuel" costs over a year.
I can tell you that CC2 made absolutely no difference at all compared to the EV-specific things my Model 3 came with.
Same, putting the heating on hit the range much harder for me.
We have Cross Climates on our ID3. I pay no attention to efficiency. Similar to roverpig above, 90% of charging is done at home (probably more tbh) - it's far too cheap to worry about a few percent.
I have the Yakima Whispbars, I left them on my Enyaq full time, didn't notice a difference in range and barely perceptible in terms of noise. Haven't put them on the ID7 yet as not needed them but once I do very much doubt they'll come off again.
120 mile commute this morning, between 1 and 3C. Kept to 70 on the cruise with occasional 75-80 overtakes. 20C on the climate, heated seat and steering wheel on, got 3.5Kw/m, pretty pleased with that on such a big car
I've got some whispbars if anyone wants them. They are the ones where the hook comes around the door jamb and fastens into a little hole.
@roverpig - just to confirm Kias appear to accept a second set of TPMS pressure sensors just fine. Within a mile of test drive the individual tyre pressures were showing fine. Obviously a Niro not a EV3 and who knows if it just worked because I was using OEM sensors....but it worked.
This is what I used... 
Oh and @molgrips ..... I can confirm that changing wheels (on a car you've never jacked up before but with a proper trolley jack) on a gravel driveway with 4 inches of snow laying on it in the dark is indeed a faff 😃. Still done in 30mins though - not going to trouble an F1 team but not too tardy.
Thanks @convert. Not sure I’ll bother with the faff of new wheels just yet but good to know it’s possible.
There's a journey I do regularly that usually uses around 30% of the battery. Today it was 46%. Something to do with either roads awash or covered in snow, heater on full to keep the windscreen clear of snow, headlights, wipers. Cross Climates meant no need to chain.
Same here... work/school commute normally uses 9%..today it was 15%!
DrP
My mates Niro has developed a fault refusing to charge 3 years old.
Intermittent.
Kia said that most garages are booking up to 3months now. Is this the norm?
If so that's useless and I agree with him I'd be put off ever buying one until that was resolved.
Kia said that most garages are booking up to 3months now. Is this the norm?
our Kia dealer is a week or 2 for routine stuff and will do urgent work within a few days.
Kia said that most garages are booking up to 3months now. Is this the norm?
I don't think so. Kia (and Hyundai) seem to suffer from issue with the ICCU (AC charging only) and the facebook group is full of stories from people about this. Some seem to wait ages for a fix while others seem to get it done almost immediately.
15k miles, 24 months, £3k deposit, £259pm....
I know nothing of car finance. Does this mean you pay 9.2k for 2 years of 'ownership' then give it back? Does this also include tax and maintenance?
Kia said that most garages are booking up to 3months now. Is this the norm?
our Kia dealer is a week or 2 for routine stuff and will do urgent work within a few days.
4 of my local dealers 3 months plus.
What county are you based in?
From the sound of that deal it's a lease, so yes. Leasing is usually about equivalent to buying the car and selling after the period - because that's what the lease company is doing. They do charge a bit to cover their expenses and profit, but they also probably buy the cars for less than you do so it can end up similar. The main benefit of this is that you can get your car without a big monthly payment, and without needing a load of capital up front.
The alternative would be:
- Borrowing the money yourself but that's pretty difficult for large amounts >£25k, and your monthly payments will be much higher because you're clearing the entire debt. But you do own a car at the end of it which is a sizeable asset.
- Buying on PCP in which again you only pay the depreciation, because you're paying the difference between the purchase price and the predicted sale price after the term. However you are guaranteed the option to buy it after the term, which is where you'd take out the loan I suppose, just like if you were buying a 3 year old car to start with. The difference is you get to drive the car for that three years rather than someone else.
- Buying an older car, which makes far more sense financially but isn't possible in the OP's case as these have only just come out.
- Borrowing part of the price and putting in cash for the rest, but that requires you to have a large amount of cash or another car to sell or part-ex.
Anyone on this thread running a Megane or Scenic? How’s it been performing? Anything to trouble a potential purchaser?
We’ve been going around the houses and struggling to decide what we want.
We started off being interested in older I4’s and Polestar 2 even Jag Ipace (ruled out due to insurance costs) basically because the massive depreciation from new made them affordable to us. I can afford whatever, but don’t want to be spending north of £30k. I also don’t want to be paying luxury car tax, so either pre March 25 or under £40k list. I’m concerned about owning older electrics out of warranty though for some reason also the Polestars feel like they could do with an update of the user experience/interface.
Saw a year old Megane at the weekend with Iconic spec and it seemed to tick most of our boxes.
There’s only 2 of us, so don’t care about rear accommodation other than the ability to put a bike in every now and then. We don’t want a massive car but we do like a lot of toys as we’re currently using a Golf GTD; heated seats and steering wheel a must, decent speakers, and I don’t want to be searching through menus to be able to drive the thing, so idiot proof would be nice. Oh, and I’d like a sunroof, but this doesn’t seem possible in a Megane; not a deal breaker. Mileage is Mrs BS’s daily commute of 20 miles each way, plus weekend trips.
what else should I be looking at?
One thing to note about the Megane is that if you are buying second hand and worried about warranty then anything registered up to end of 2022 had a 5 year warranty and after that it was 3. So potentially a Dec 22 car has a longer warranty than a much newer one...
You can get a Niro EV with a sunroof but needs to be 4 spec.
Thanks Winston, spotted that. However I think if we went Megane, I’d look for something around a year old to get most warranty but with the updated interior spec.
Ref the Kia PV5 on lease - Molgrips has it right.
My current van is getting on a bit, and costs £9 per visit into the city (which I need to do for work), plus TBH I've never had a 'nice' vehicle and now my mortgage is paid off, I feel like I'm in a position to do so haha.
The ID Buzz was the other obvious choice, but the brand new price (whether purchased or leased) is double that of the PV5, while 2nd hand prices are the same if not higher for a similarly specced (big battery, all the toys - it'll be my daily after all) PV5. The performance figures and spec lists on paper between the two are nigh-on identical (Buzz has slightly longer range).
OTR Kia wanted £33k but they don't have tailgate options from launch and couldn't give me an ETA on tailgate.
As such, I'm going for the lease for 2 years, by which time there'll either be more Buzz's available, PV5s with tailgates (2nd hand or new), or the new Renault Traffic (launching summer '26) available new or 2nd hand.
I've never even considered leasing a vehicle, always seen it as money down the drain, but I can absorb a £3k deposit by selling my current van, and I get more than £250pm in milage via work on average, so I'm seeing it as a zero loss game.
Price includes road tax, and the service interval is 20k/2 years. I just have to cover insurance.
Only thing I'm waiting on is my neighbour to green-light me running the electrics under his driveway so I can mount a charger to my garage...
What county are you based in?
central Scotland
what else should I be looking at?
Kia ? All with 7 yr warranty..
Old tennis - think the 5 is a bit small, perhaps as struggle to get a bike in?
iainc - yep, gonna take a look at Kia at the weekend.
Two 27.5 FS MTBs go in a Zoe with the rear seat down or out, wheels-out dropper down. The 5 has more space.
Unfortunately I’ve got an XL 29er that barely fits in the back of a Golf with its wheels out!
Didn't someone post a picture on this thread a few weeks back of their 5 with a tow bar rack? Looked lush.
EDIT; Found it https://singletrackworld.com/forum/off-topic/the-electric-car-thread/paged/121/#post-13644818
If anyone's interested I can give the approx lease calculations examples for Kia niro v buying 2021/22
(Lease companies can absorb the VAT and buy cheaper etc.)
The difference is huge in this example:
Kia Niro 21/22 top ticket price 37,000
Lease was 350 x 48 = 16,800
Current estimated value £13k
Depreciation 24K
Now I know there's some wobble in the RRP but there's a girth of 7K+/- loss if you'd have bought it.
Doesn't always work like this. I think this was the timing between lease cars piling into the used market recently. And there were loads of Niros on lease.
With the passenger seat not too far back or inclined it might fit, there are only 15cm between the Golf and the 5 in boot length measurement seat down. Take one for a test drive and try it. 🙂
Will certainly look, do like the 5’s and for the occasion the bike needs to go in it might be just go in enough, although on the Golf I have to make sure I don’t slam the cage of the mech in the boot seal 😂
Won’t be having a tow ball and rack though as I’ve got enough clutter in the garage already. If it doesn’t go in, we need a bigger car!
Has anyone got (or have any experience of) a VW ID7 electric estate car?
My aging and decrepit estate car won't pass its MOT in January, I already know this. Workplace has a car lease / salary sacrifice thing whereby I can get an ID7 for about £400 a month (which includes insurance, breakdown, servicing etc - this is annoying cos I know I can get those things cheaper than a bundled lease deal but whatever...)
Advantages:
no deposit, no credit check, new car, in theory at least everything is included and sorted
Disadvantages:
it's £400 a month for 36 months with nothing to show at the end of it and the potential issues of electric car charging although the range seems to cover pretty much everything I'd usually need it for and the bundle includes a home charging unit installation. There are also a couple of EV charge points about 200m up the road from me.
Estate car cos bikes need to go in it and I really don't want an electric SUV or a smaller car that I need to mess around with taking wheels off each time...
Main question though: is it a decent car or does it have annoying traits which only become apparent after a month of owning it? And might I be better off just going for an Approved Used hybrid (or petrol / diesel) estate?
Me, see above. I have had one for two weeks and it's mint. Had a Skoda Enyaq for best part of 4 years before that which was also a great car but the ID7, whilst sharing the same MEB platform, is a cut above in every department
I have the Yakima Whispbars, I left them on my Enyaq full time, didn't notice a difference in range and barely perceptible in terms of noise. Haven't put them on the ID7 yet as not needed them but once I do very much doubt they'll come off again.
I just took my Thule wing bars off for 320 miles round trip on motorways and 60mph roads having left them on for a couple of months of mostly local driving. The ID7 is so quiet compared to any of my previous cars that the extra wind noise is noticeable and moderately annoying (for me at least). I’m also fairly sure it impacts the efficiency by 0.2mi/kwh or so (not scientifically measured though!). On the flip side, I’ve decided I don’t really care much about efficiency so long as I’m not on rapid chargers constantly - £5 to charge up at home then free charging at the office 160 miles away means I could absolutely rag the thing there and back if I wanted and not run out.
had an ID7 tourer for a little over a year. Absolutely love it. 373 miles range is a filthy lie though, most I could get is 320 if I drove gently (motorways). I average about 3.6mi/kWh. But the car itself is very nice, comfortable, seems well put together. Zero issues so far.
373 miles range is a filthy lie though, most I could get is 320 if I drove gently (motorways)
Mines connected to my Home Assistant and I track "effective 100% range" - dividing current range by state of charge. That's been as high as 360 when I was doing more local ~40moh trips in summer, now down around 300 - 77kWh battery. As above the quiet cabin is a blessing and a curse as I've had to track down some annoying creaks and squeaks and pack some anti rattle tape in there.
Some features aren't (and apparently won't be) available on UK cars due to type approval happening just as we stopped accepting EU tests and there weren't equivalent UK ones (brexit bonus). That' includes walk away locking, kick to open tailgate and remote parking. And they've apparently locked down access so you can't hack in to enable them either.
So I’ve just had my ID7 rejected after a fairly nightmarish 6 months. GTX tourer, when it worked was fantastic but I had a total lemon. They never worked out what was wrong but I had hundreds of failed DC fast charges, 4 occasions where the car total immobile and one rolling to the side of the motorway. It spent over 10 weeks at the dealer, who - along with VW were totally incompetent. Suspicion was it’s a battery control module issue, which is a recorded problem on other VAG vehicles.
That being said, others are clearly fine and when it worked the car was amazing!
Yeah, VW don't really seem to know how to fix their EVs. Currently the best part of three months since something blew in the audio amplifier on our buzz. Replacing it bricked the car and they don't seem to have any idea how to fix it. A shame there aren't any alternatives with decent range.
Yeah VW were dreadful
373 miles range is a filthy lie though
As above, that figure includes lots of local low speed driving which is fairly pointless as with most people home charging it is very unlikely to matter, you only care on the long trips.
Since work has decided we're going 100% fleet now, after a few of us ordered EVs for the Tax, we've got a Kia PV5 long-range coming in Jan. Can't wait, it's going to be my Bike Van when I can nick it 😉
The noise from leaving the roof bars and bike racks on is very noticeable in our ID7, as is the noise when carrying bikes on the roof. It's made more obvious as without them fitted it is really quiet. I've only loaded bikes inside once but the extra rear passenger space made this easier than in our previous golf estate. There really is loads of space between the front seats and the rear bench. My only real niggle with the car is that IDA (the voice assistant) is quite dumb. The commands are not obvious and she gets confused easily. Sometimes just a slight variation works and I'm left wondering why the previous command didn't. She also refers to chat GPT way too often.
Has anyone been in and tested a Polestar 3, just the standard dual motor, and the Hyundai Ioniq 9?
Top tip, close the app on your phone when not using it as apparently it can drain your 12V battery. At least that was Kia's working theory as to why my EV6 stopped working.
My only real niggle with the car is that IDA (the voice assistant) is quite dumb. The commands are not obvious and she gets confused easily.
Yeah - 'Warm my feet', 'I don't know what you mean', 'Warm my feet', 'Ok, warming your feet' was my most recent experience of this. I barely use it now - used it quite a bit at first for silly things like turning heated seats/ steering wheel on/ off when I didn't know my way around all the buttons but that didn't last long.
373 miles range is a filthy lie though
As above, that figure includes lots of local low speed driving which is fairly pointless as with most people home charging it is very unlikely to matter, you only care on the long trips.
I've very much decided I don't care, even 200 miles is mostly enough (the lowest I've had is about 220 fully loaded going from Chester to Norfolk just before Christmas). When I'm at home I don't give a monkeys about driving efficiently as the charging is pennies so I've never really seen what kind of range I could potentially do (also town driving isn't really a thing as I live in the countryside).
200 miles is enough to drive anywhere in reasonable security, as it's all my car has.
Has anyone been in and tested a Polestar 3, just the standard dual motor, and the Hyundai Ioniq 9?
Those are two nice looking cars. The I9 is absolutely massive though - you walk up to it and think 'what a massive car'. The lady in the showroom said they had trouble getting it in. Beautiful inside, for sure, but I think the PS3 would be a better car - not least because it has air suspension on the back which will help if you have a full load. But both are lovely. The I9 is a step above the I5 in terms of 'niceness', probably on a par with the I6.
Cheers @molgrips. First world problems, need to choose something and it’s the family car as well. So big boot and ideallY AWD. After the last 6 months of nonsense can’t stomach VAG for a little while. There’s some gaps in the scheme, new ix3 and GLC eq aren’t there, nor the iX. So need to investigate.
But the P3 and ioniq 9 are there. Ioniq I can get all singing all dancing calligraphy, the P3 I’d be in the base spec dual motor, with no packs. So missing HUD, heated steering wheel, the amazing sound system etc. I quite value those. As you say thought the Ioniq is enormous. And ugly. Going to try and sort test drive. Then go find a multi storey!
Ref the Kia PV5 on lease - Molgrips has it right
Thanks @molgrips - your post is an exceptionally clear summary of ways to buy a car.
Top tip, close the app on your phone when not using it as apparently it can drain your 12V battery. At least that was Kia's working theory as to why my EV6 stopped working.
My Leaf has a (factory fitted) small solar panel on the roof that keeps the 12v topped up. I guess it works because in 10 years of ownership and almost 100,000 miles its still on the original battery and has never shown a fault.
TBH, my other car (12 year old Auris Hybrid) is also on its original 12v and that's on 150k!
So, after a weekend of looking around it seems we’re getting closer.
been to Kia, Renault and Volvo. Seems like the clear favorite atm is a pre register Volvo EX30 Ultra extended range. A sniff under £30k and a generous trade in offered on our current Golf.
We did initially like the EV3 and 4, the 4 being my favorite, but would want the GT Line S, which is well over the budget I’ve put in place.
Looks like I’ll have to like it or lump it with the luxury car tax though as the Volvo is annoyingly £1,500 over it at list price.
next step is to arrange test drives…
Has anyone been in and tested a Polestar 3, just the standard dual motor, and the Hyundai Ioniq 9?
Nope, but we have a Polestar 4 and a Hyndai Kona. I've had the PS4 6 weeks and the Hyundai a year. The Polestar is a lovely place to be when when it's all working as it should, but the more traditional UI (controls) of the Hyudai are a breath of fresh air in comparison.
Definitely take both for a decent test drive. I'm slightly kicking myself that I didn't look more closely at an Ioniq 5 as an alternative to the PS4.
Thanks @oldtennisshoes tbh I’m leaning ever closer to the Ioniq 9. Need to go drive. It helps that it’s £100 a month cheaper than a P3/4 and even an a6 etron. Seems like a lot of car for the money.
Well my chosen car has finally been delivered.
here is a very short real life review:
it is both brilliant and shit.
here’s a slightly longer real life review:
On the plus side it’s a nice wee car, good fun, comfortable, includes plenty of gadgets and all that stuff.
handles nicely, goes well, stops well.
on the negative side the range is shit (this is the larger capacity battery version).
but all battery cars have shit range.
I’m glad I chose it, because it’s a fun car. And there should be more of that.
We still have our old Volvo diesel for work and just as well as long distances to/from sites are par for the course with us.
i tried the electric for work once, and never will again. I used a Skoda Enyaq 85 ‘long range’ and because I had to stop and charge it added 2 hours each way. Bugger that.
however, as a fun runabout and for trips not too far the little 5 is great! It’s a really enjoyable thing. Very pleased with it so far.
Why wouldn't you go far in it? Why did your Enyaq add 2hrs to your trip? I reckon charging in my tiny battery slow charging Ioniq only added about 2hrs to a 500 mile trip.
Surely an Enyaq will do at least 200 motorway miles before charging? I'm certainly ready for a stop after driving for three hours.
used a Skoda Enyaq 85 ‘long range’ and because I had to stop and charge it added 2 hours each way. Bugger that.
The big Enyaq has a theoretical range of 380 miles IIRC so even real life use you should get circa 300
Rapid charging should take you from 20% to 80% in under half an hour which should add at least 180 miles of range
2 hours of stops, half an hour of rapid charging, should cover about 720 miles of range
Unless your work trip was Lands End to John o'groats, you were either driving with your foot welded to the floor, not charging correctly or there was a defect with the car?