I'm hoping this will be offset by cheaper fast DC charging when the new offshore and onshore wind comes online in the future
Until there is change to the UK wholesale marginal price policy that effectively pegs all electricty prices to the most expensive being produced at any given time (usually gas) it won't make much difference.
I’m a bit in two minds on the mileage tax. On the one hand there is a lot of revenue generated by fuel duty and whatever you think about the need to balance the books, it was always obvious that this chancellor (like most of them) was going to want to recover that lost revenue from somewhere. EV drivers being the obvious choice. So I can’t really complain as I knew it would happen. By the same token I don’t really expect those cheap (7p/kwh) overnight deals to last much longer either.
On the other hand it feels as though the transition to EVs, while possibly unstoppable now, is happening more slowly than we would like. There is a lot of push back from obvious sources and it does feel as though things are somewhat in the balance. So this feels a bit too early.
Of course, this is classic treasury kite flying (“leak” a policy to test the reaction) and they may feel that they have to bring this in early or risk not being able to do it at all. Currently most people do not drive an EV and everyone thinks someone else should pay more tax. So it’s politically fairly easy to bring it in now (petrolheads will love it I’m sure). Wait a few more years and the number of people affected will increase making it politically much harder to introduce. Establish the principle now while it is popular may be the treasury thinking on this one.
Re the per mile tax will it just be a flat fee? Not sure a Citroen Ami should be paying the same rate as an Audi Q8
Instinctively seems right to me.
Anyway, just came to post this https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/renault-could-cut-prices-4-5-twingo-if-eus-e-car-class-approved
Re the per mile tax will it just be a flat fee? Not sure a Citroen Ami should be paying the same rate as an Audi Q8
Instinctively seems right to me.
Anyway, just came to post this https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/renault-could-cut-prices-4-5-twingo-if-eus-e-car-class-approved
Ugh, post disappeared
There's some stuff about a proposal to make a new small cars category https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/renault-could-cut-prices-4-5-twingo-if-eus-e-car-class-approved
Ugh, post disappeared
There's some stuff about a proposal to make a new small cars category https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/renault-could-cut-prices-4-5-twingo-if-eus-e-car-class-approved
Ugh, post disappeared
There's some stuff about a proposal to make a new small cars category https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/renault-could-cut-prices-4-5-twingo-if-eus-e-car-class-approved
I like the idea of a protected cheaper small class of cars. It would help stop car size inflation I think.
i reached 125mph.... the 'chicken foot' kicked in and I had to hit the brake before flying off the corner!
DrP
Nice....they are limited to 127mph/205kph (as I found out in Germany)
What a great job Renault have done on their range of smallish Evs, those all look brilliant and recognisably Renault just at a glance.
Love the idea of a European 'kei' car category.
Just clicked over 1000 miles in the Scenic. It's a really solid car, if not exciting. Quick enough, smooth and refined, and the interior is really nicely designed and screwed together. I'm averaging about 4 m/kW with a mix of motorway (50%), A and B roads, and some city driving. I love Google Automotive built in, it just works. The single button for all the ADAS systems is really easy, and for the base spec car, the Techno, it's really well spec'd.
As a dyed in the wool German car fanboi I love the Renault offerings at the moment. I suspect a 5 if not the Alpine version will be coming to casa OTS in the new year
We also have a 5 at top of the list when replacing our A1 at the end of next year. I am a real fan of my EV3 so will be interested to see how the EV2 compares to the 5 when it comes out next year.
Definitely not one for a small cars category but this was delivered yesterday. Proper luxobarge with delightful levels of waftage. Base spec but, unusually for a German car, they come loaded with toys as standard
Apologies for my duplicate posting flusterpuck up there /\/\
I'll start off with that I don't own an EV & have no intention of doing, I'll stick with my diesel, thanks.
Having said that I do drive an EV daily at work & did an 85 mile round trip the other day, a mixture of A roads, B roads & motorways up to the related speed limits & it achieved an average consumption for said journey of 4.9miles per kwh. Quite impressive I thought.
I'll start off with that I don't own an EV & have no intention of doing, I'll stick with my diesel, thanks.
Having said that I do drive an EV daily at work & did an 85 mile round trip the other day, a mixture of A roads, B roads & motorways up to the related speed limits & it achieved an average consumption for said journey of 4.9miles per kwh. Quite impressive I thought.
What car was that?
What car was that?
Must be a 2020 ioniq 🤔 like mine, although I'd achieve over 5miles/KW with my superior driving skillz and flappy paddle regen technique 😉😉😭
I'm pretty late to this thread so I guess there will have been previous chat covering what is now my position, but, 124 pages.....
I'm a regular driver of EV's but for 'reasons' I've not been in a position to buy or lease one until now. That has changed and I have applied for the Energy Saving Trust 2nd hand EV interest free loan, looks like I'm eligible due to postcode. Loan is capped at £23k and the car must not cost more than this, I cannot top up. Still a great deal though.
Requirements are:
- Estate size car. I would like smaller but my dog travels most places with me so boot is important. Needs to be big, ideally without a deep lip.
- Must have Apple CarPlay, heated seats, decent cup holder and centre arm rest.
- I do a 200 mile round trip about once a month and would prefer to comfortably do that, year round, without charging
- On nice to have, rather than essential, list, roof rails for easy fitting on my roof bars (I don't really want to spend on towball for bike carrying). Also tinted rear windows for dog shade but I can get this done aftermarket
I don't like my neighbours MG estate so that is out. I do like driving so whilst I am not fussed about badges, I want a car that I will enjoy. I'm no racer but I appreciate a nice, well thought out space, comforts and nice ride.
So far shortlist is Skoda Enyaq, any of the 80 variant. I can get a decent spec, around 3 years old for my money. It seems to tick all the boxes, gets decent reviews but I quite dull/
Key question is, if not the Enyaq, what else should I be looking at?
nothing to add on flavour of car....but as we also qualify due to rural scottish postcode....im off for a gander at what i can get in E-berlingo or E-rifter for <23k.
WTF would you bother with an EV at the moment now that Labour's courting the anti-green fanatics by sticking random and complicated taxes on them? Much like the latest "take are country back" announcements from Kier Starmer and Suella Mahmoud, this is all about trying to limit the damage they perceive from Reform.
I don't think anyone objected to paying VED on EVs now there are so many that the exemption doesn't make sense, but introducing a pay per mile scheme that's horrendously complicated and deliberately penalises owners that can't charge at home seems utterly ridiculous.
Was hoping that with Ed Milliband in a fairly high position in the party that they'd really push the green initiatives (not just cars, everywhere), but in reality they haven't changed anything. Whether this is a result of lobbying and donations from fossil fuel companies, or the fact that the previous governments had lots of stuff written into awkward contracts, I don't know, but it reaffirms my opinion that this Labour government is functionally identical to David Cameron's 15 years ago.
I heard on the radio this morning that over half of car sales in China are EVs. Norway is even higher IIRC. That's what happens when you create a favourable environment. Here in France we're at 25%, or were, because with ever more expensive charging and reduced subsidies the attractiveness is going down. The easily convinced already have an EV, it'll take an ever increasing cost differential to persuade the last of the petrol heads to give up vroom vrooom.
Given the environmental and health costs of ICEs they should be put out of reach. Taxing EVs is plain nasty. Anyhow, I voted Green last time because I didn't think Labour would be any better than the Tories on issues that concern me, I was right.
nothing to add on flavour of car....but as we also qualify due to rural scottish postcode....im off for a gander at what i can get in E-berlingo or E-rifter for <23k.
Household income of <£50k seems low if you have 2 people working.
but introducing a pay per mile scheme that's horrendously complicated and deliberately penalises owners that can't charge at home seems utterly ridiculous.
I thought pay per mile was a flat rate [per mile you drive] regardless of where you charge - how does it deliberately penalise owners that can't charge at home?
Taxing EVs is plain nasty.
over 1/3 of the price at the pump is fuel duty. how else do you think they will replace that tax revenue.
Well how about taxing the surving ICEs off the road and then think about taxing EVs. While there are still stinking polluting ICEs around just keep increasing taxes till there are none left. But that will lose votes say you. Well tax something else like say stinking rich corporations and their billionaire owners.
Or would you rather do nothing and let climatic change wipe us out if the pollution hasn't already killed us?
Household income of <£50k seems low if you have 2 people working.
While i agree - the postcode lottery says -
• Please note, if you are eligible via the postcode route there is no requirement to provide household income evidence
1 Large Urban Areas Settlements of over 125 000 people
2 Other Urban Areas Settlements of 10 000 to 125 000 people
3 Accessible Small Towns Settlements of between 3 000 and 10 000 people and within a 30 minute drive time of a Settlement of 10 000 or more
4 Remote Small Towns Settlements of between 3 000 and 10 000 people and with a drive time between 30 and 60 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
5 Very Remote Small Towns Settlements of between 3 000 and 10 000 people and with a drive time of over 60 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
6 Accessible Rural Areas Areas with a population of less than 3 000 people and within a drive time of 30 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
7 Remote Rural Areas Areas with a population of less than 3 000 people and with a drive time of between 30 and 60 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
8 Very Remote Rural Areas Areas with a population of less than 3 000 people and with a drive time of over 60 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
thats the criteria for classification and looks like 5 or above is eligible.
Accessible Rural Areas Areas with a population of less than 3 000 people and within a drive time of 30 minutes to a Settlement of 10 000 or more
20 minutes from a big town but only 2 buses a day. I could just about cope with the backwardness of this policy if they said the money is going to go into rural bus services. Or making train journeys affordable for anyone other than teenagers, pensioners, and anyone who needs to book less than three months in advance.
Let's not forget that they kept the 5p discount on fuel tax while increasing bus fares by 50%.
Well how about taxing the surving ICEs off the road and then think about taxing EVs. While there are still stinking polluting ICEs around just keep increasing taxes till there are none left.
Because it comes back to the fact that you'd end up increasing taxes for people who simply cannot afford an EV.
Bare in mind the above only applies to those of us in Scotland.
Because it comes back to the fact that you'd end up increasing taxes for people who simply cannot afford an EV.
An increased tax (at purchase and in VED) on new ICE cars above a certain cost would penalise those who could afford an EV but choose not to. Eventually there will be a point where it makes economic and environmental sense to increase tax revenue from EV drivers but IMO we're not there yet.
Because it comes back to the fact that you'd end up increasing taxes for people who simply cannot afford an EV.An increased tax (at purchase and in VED) on new ICE cars above a certain cost would penalise those who could afford an EV but choose not to. Eventually there will be a point where it makes economic and environmental sense to increase tax revenue from EV drivers but IMO we're not there yet.
Tell that to my single neighbour with a couple of kids keeping a 20 year old Fiesta on the road on a shoestring. She has no spare cash to borrow a car loan, and so sticks with her ancient and paid for car.
I also have a paid fully car early next year - and do not want to change until that hits the scrapper in hopefully a good few years. I hope you are not suggesting I scrap that early and mine a load of fresh resources and energy to buy a new car?
I hope you are not suggesting I scrap that early and mine a load of fresh resources and energy to buy a new car?
why would you scrap it ? other options are availible.
Why would either of those be affected by a tax on new high value ICE cars? They'd probably never be on the shopping list for your neighbour, or not until they hit the bangernomics threshold.
After a great honeymoon period with the GV60 I’m beginning to think I’ve picked the wrong car for the type of driving I’m doing. The drive home from Hyundai Guildford to Cheshire was so relaxing and comfortable but the problem I’ve got is that I live in a fairly rural area and every journey starts and ends with a 10 minute drive around the back lanes which is causing me issues. The car handles the rough surfaces and potholes absolutely fine but it’s the dips, undulations and camber that are causing me issues with the car diving, bouncing and wallowing through these challenges. Then once I’m back on main roads I’m back to serene driving. Switching regen off helps slightly and I can use the flappy paddle thingies to change regen but still a PITA.
I hope you are not suggesting I scrap that early and mine a load of fresh resources and energy to buy a new car?
why would you scrap it ? other options are availible.
I agree.
But the suggestion from Edukator is that 'While there are still stinking polluting ICEs around just keep increasing taxes till there are none left'. So the suggestion is to tax those with cheaper cars, to push them off the road, to be replaced with electric. Which of course means new electric cars somewhere...yet we all know that running an old car as long as possible and reducing how much they are used is the way to really do something better.
why would you scrap it ? other options are availible.
Such as, sell it?
But then it (and therefore the 'problem' as some see it) would still exist.
why would you scrap it ? other options are availible.
Such as, sell it?
But then it (and therefore the 'problem' as some see it) would still exist.
And the car you think worth some money is worthless as nobody wants a car that is going to cost silly money to keep going - so it ends up scrapped prematurely and an new electric car built with precious resources and carbon emissions created in its place...
Because it comes back to the fact that you'd end up increasing taxes for people who simply cannot afford an EV.An increased tax (at purchase and in VED) on new ICE cars above a certain cost would penalise those who could afford an EV but choose not to. Eventually there will be a point where it makes economic and environmental sense to increase tax revenue from EV drivers but IMO we're not there yet.
Tell that to my single neighbour with a couple of kids keeping a 20 year old Fiesta on the road on a shoestring. She has no spare cash to borrow a car loan, and so sticks with her ancient and paid for car.
I also have a paid fully car early next year - and do not want to change until that hits the scrapper in hopefully a good few years. I hope you are not suggesting I scrap that early and mine a load of fresh resources and energy to buy a new car?
unless MOAB has turned into a purveyor of brand new cars i doubt he will have any trouble with a tax on new cars affecting his sale.
After a great honeymoon period with the GV60 I’m beginning to think I’ve picked the wrong car for the type of driving I’m doing.
I’m surprised to hear that. I never experienced what you’re describing in my bog standard GV60. It was a bit softer than my EV6 is but not dramatically so.
Is it fitted with the adaptive suspension? ( mine wasn’t)
Have you tried the auto regen setting? A long press of the right hand paddle lets the car constantly adjust the regen on the fly based on some kind of witchcraft. I keep it in this setting all the time.
After a great honeymoon period with the GV60 I’m beginning to think I’ve picked the wrong car for the type of driving I’m doing.
I’m surprised to hear that. I never experienced what you’re describing in my bog standard GV60. It was a bit softer than my EV6 is but not dramatically so.
Is it fitted with the adaptive suspension? ( mine wasn’t)
Have you tried the auto regen setting? A long press of the right hand paddle lets the car constantly adjust the regen on the fly based on some kind of witchcraft. I keep it in this setting all the time.
Not got the adaptive suspension PP. The biggest issue is dips in the road when it acts like a bucking bronco. Regen off does allow the car to 'flow' down the lanes in a less unsettled way than max regen but still not great.
If you tax ICEs enough there will be enough tax revenue to subsidise those poor people who really need something to replace that ageing, unrealiable, costly to run Fiesta to get to/do their jobs. In France there's a scheme whereby poor people can lease a new EV for 100e a month which beats bangernomics by quite a margin when you compare the cost of running the Fiesta or a Twingo EV. Tax those people more on their ICEs and at some point it will become apparent that opting for a new 100e/month EV is better than throwing another three figure sum at a car to get the Fiesta through the MOT or even replace it with another ICE..
Some vehicles I'd happily scrap as they roll of the production line, Range Rovers for example, trying to say that the embedded carbon in a new EV would make a replacement more polluting is nonsense. That arguement only works if the vehicle is only going to do another 40 000km or less. If you aren't convinced work out how many tonnes of fuel that new Range Rover will convert into CO2 and toxic pollutants over its lifetime.
Well how about taxing the surving ICEs off the road and then think about taxing EVs. While there are still stinking polluting ICEs around just keep increasing taxes till there are none left. But that will lose votes say you. Well tax something else like say stinking rich corporations and their billionaire owners.
Or would you rather do nothing and let climatic change wipe us out if the pollution hasn't already killed us?
Id rather they taxed the stinking rich (who also happen to generate 100x or 1000x the emissions that I do).
@shinton is that behaviour on roads with a bad surface? I have an ioniq 5 (related to gv 60) and on bad surfaces the traction control becomes hyperactive on the rougher country roads we have even at mildly interesting speeds.
I sometime turn off the traction control and the car handles and flows down the road really nicely then. Still a big softly sprung thing but v nice and neutral when pushing along (the 4wd version).
@pedlad the worst example is where there's a small utility repair trench that has slightly sagged and causes a massive 'buck'. I'm beginning to think there may be a problem with the suspension so will get it looked at as it was bought from a Genesis dealership and should have been checked before delivery.
The biggest issue is dips in the road when it acts like a bucking bronco.
You need a few more clicks of rebound damping....
DrP
Id rather they taxed the stinking rich (who also happen to generate 100x or 1000x the emissions that I do).
Both, surely? Not being stinking rich is also not an excuse to needlessly generate emissions. To be fair the motorist could plug the entire financial black hole just by having the existing laws enforced - the casual motorway speeding, illegal numberplates, DPF deletes and black smoke modifications, idling unnecessarily, pavement parking. Couple this with pay-per-mile but link it to time of day, and you also help congestion and local air pollution.
The biggest issue is dips in the road when it acts like a bucking bronco.
You need a few more clicks of rebound damping....
DrP
lol and agreed. Fed up of bouncing down the road like a clown car 🙁
Try it without traction on. It’s pretty extreme when it kicks in. But no it’s never going to be. Taut sports car
mine is up for renewal in April. Won’t touch Tesla. If you want similar charging speed and apply a few more criteria there limited choice. If they did adjustable dampers on the ioniq 5 I’d be tempted by another. But I don’t want the silly gimmick laden N version.
Has anyone got an Omoda E5?
It's that time of year when we (those of us in NE Scotland at least) have to start thinking about tyres.
My EV3 came equipped with Hankook Ion Evo tyres which clearly aren't up to an Aberdeenshire winter.
For the last 20 years I've always just stuck some decent all season tyres on and forgot about it. But those were all AWD ICE cars and I guess there are a few more things to think about with a FWD EV. Like whether an all season will really do the job.
It also seems to be the law with EVs that you have to obsess about range. Not sure why, but I don't make the rules 😀 My Hankook tyres are rated A for efficiency and the best all season tyres I can find in the weird 215/50R19 size are the Michelin Cross Climate 2, which are B rated. So, theoretically at least, I'm going to be losing range all year round. Although I can't find any reliable numbers on whether this is actually significant or not.
I'm guessing all season tyres would also be noisier all year round, although the noise rating for the CC2 seems to be no worse than the Hankooks.
I could try to source some 17" wheels (which are standard on the lower trim) and then I could get A rated all season tyres. But that's extra faff and if I do that maybe I should just fit "proper" winter tyres to those rims and switch back to my current wheel/tyre in the summer. But that is more faff and even in Aberdeenshire we can get warmish days in winter.
Decisions, decisions.
I've Cross climates on the Zoe and a set of chains in the boot. It does very well on ice and snow. Power delivery is smooth, grip fine. The weight means everything happens a little more slowly than in a lighter similar sized car, like having three passengers all the time. There was debate on here about regen braking but I don't find it enough to break grip and there's a D setting if it ever I want less. In conclusion it's really easy to drive. The Cross Climates last longer than the Summer tyres the car was delivered with. If there is a difference in range between A and B rated tyres it's totally insignificant compared with a battery at -10°C and +30°C.
I also use an ICE with Michelin Alpin 7. They are a step up in Winter grip from the Cross Climates which as junior works in a ski resort and I lend him the car for the season is worth it. However, they don't last long: about 7000km on the front then swap to the back at 4mm and a new set on the front - every season. There are few more bends and steep gradients on his road to work than most people though.
NE scotland resident here. I've not long put CC2 on my niro, guessing the tyre rating wont matter much as the cold, this kills the battery range more than an A or B tyre rating. Be interested in what the snow driving mode has to offer though
guessing the tyre rating wont matter much as the cold, this kills the battery range more than an A or B tyre rating.
True, but the point of fitting all seasons rather than winters is surely that you leave them on all year round. So, if there is a noticeable hit to the range you'll suffer that in summer too. But A/B for efficiency rating is rather vague and I have no idea whether it would be possible to detect the effect on range (summer or winter) really.
Added to your post on the EV3 forum. On previous cars I have found cross climates to be as quiet and efficient as premium summer tyres and definitely longer lasting.
and definitely longer lasting.
I thought all season tyres were softer (to give more grip in colder conditions) and therefore generally didn't last as long as 'summer' tyres which could afford to have a slightly harder compound?
Ive put my winter tyres on. I dont think mine have a big effect on range ( Haakapelitta 5) although some do. But the impacts of cold and heavy rain, snow on rolling resistance are bigger..
Added to your post on the EV3 forum. On previous cars I have found cross climates to be as quiet and efficient as premium summer tyres and definitely longer lasting.
Great. Thanks.
I guess if the CC2 are rated B for efficiency and my current tyres are rated A then there must be a reduction in range. But there are so many factors that affect range on an EV that it may not actually be possible to detect the difference in practice.
Easiest option is probably to stick CC2 on and keep my existing summer tyres in the shed so I can always swap back in the summer if it does seem to be an issue.
Still got half a mind to source some 17" alloys as I never really understood the appeal of larger wheels on what is supposed to be (at least in style) and SUV. They just give a harsher ride, less range and don't look right on that sort of vehicle to me. But it is a lot of extra faff. I'd have to get my head around all the widths, offsets etc for a start.
The impact of all seasons in summer is significantly less than the impact of your EV being in a field.
2 of my neighbours (in the relevent north east space of the op)at the steading on the hill behind the house have identical white tesla's. Ones a driving god. The other had all seasons fitted.
Oh how we laughed at the skid marks straight down the hill across the road into the cow field and the abandoned and subsequently written off due to floor pan damage as it passed over the wall.
The other had left slightly earlier and negotiated the hill smoothly and in control.
I have Cross Climate 2s on the diesel estate. There is a little more high frequency hiss than my summer tyres which annoys me - I probably wouldn't notice it in my Hyundai because it's a cheaper car and there's more low frequency tyre noise. The handling is slightly worse - less firm and planted - but again I wouldn't notice in a less sporty car. I lose about 5% in MPG over the summer tyres, in similar conditions.
Still got half a mind to source some 17" alloys
Smaller wheels and bigger tyres seems to have a pretty big impact in range and efficiency. As I've said before, when I went from staggered 19s to non-staggered 18s (and correspondingly deeper tyres) on the diesel I gained about 12-15% efficiency. Admittedly the choice of tyre was quite different, but conversely that wasn't a big change in wheel size. My Hyundai is extremely efficient and I think a big reason for that is that it's not powerful, so they've fitted it with normal tyres (205/60/R16) instead of low profile nonsense.
I fitted CC2 to my ‘old’ style Ioniq arc the start of last winter. There is no measurable difference in the day to day or long term efficiency compared to the Primacy 4s they replaced. There is a massive difference in wet and cold weather grip. They may be a little bit noisier on a very smooth road, but with the radio on this isn’t noticeable.
the other benefit is the ability to get out of muddy fields and car parks. To be efficient the primacy had tread with smooth bands. In the slightest bit of mud these would just spin.
The primacy’s were also a big step up from the OEM Michelin energy savers.
As mentioned above, there may be a small range difference, but it’s not noticeable in my daily driving.
Thanks @molgrips; I'd pretty much decided that changing wheels was too much faff and now I'm back down the rabbit hole 😀
Switching from my 19" wheels to 17" ones (as fitted to the base model EV3) sounds simple at first, but the more I look into it the more confused I get.
It's a 7.0Jx17 wheel with a 48mm offset. So that seems simple enough. As long as I double check PCD and centre bore size, I've got lots of options for wheels, often costing no more than a premium tyre. But how does the weight compare with my original wheels and does that matter? What about aerodynamic performance? That has to matter, right? Seems as though I could easily drop a fair bit of cash and still end up with a wheel that gives lower range then my current 19s if I'm not careful.
Then there is the whole question of whether wheel diameter actually matters anyway. I've seen people claim that what matters is tyre width and that is the same (215) for the 17 and 19 inch wheels.
Kia claim the air model (on 17s) only has 8 miles more range than the GT line and 13 miles more than my GT line S model. But is that really the wheels or just the extra weight of the higher spec cars (with more kit). Note that the GT line and GT line-S models have the same wheels but there is still a 5 mile drop in range, so a fair bit must be weight.
Then, I'd have to get a new set of TPMS sensors. That's easy enough, but how does the car detect these? Will I need to get the sensors coded to vehicle somehow or does it just detect which sensor is on which wheel automatically?
There is also a reduction in circumference going from a 215/50/R19 to a 215/60/R17 tyre, but does that matter and do I have to recalibrate the car somehow? I'm guessing not as the difference is only 1% (2167mm vs 2189mm). Currently if I'm doing a (GPS) speed of 70mph the car will read 71mph (closer than any previous car). With the 17s on I guess that might increase to 72mph but still well within the legal requirement. There will presumably also be a 1% change in estimated efficiency and therefore range I guess. But, again, 1% is too small to care about.
So it's complicated and the more I think about it the more tempted I am to just stick CC2s on my existing 19" wheels and see what happens.
So it's complicated and the more I think about it the more tempted I am to just stick CC2s on my existing 19" wheels and see what happens.
Probably this!
The cost of new wheels would buy a lot of 'leccy!
So it's complicated and the more I think about it the more tempted I am to just stick CC2s on my existing 19" wheels and see what happens.
I've had a dedicated set of winter wheels with winter tyres for my previous 3 cars. I really can't be arsed with that anymore and so I'm going to stick some all seasons on the P4 as the temperature drops. I'll probably just store the tyres that come off and put them back on just as the car goes back depending on wear rates etc.
It's just a shame that it's not easy to spec the car with all seasons from new.
All seasons would just not quite cut it for me here - full winters for me. And the Niro will be our fist non 4wd since living here. It's not mega remote but 200m above sea level so we cop it when the towns at the coast are ok. And about 2 miles from the snow gates and if they get closed we become a non-priority dead end for snow ploughs and gritters so in the winter I do a lot of driving on untreated roads. Or it drops below -8 overnight and they might as well not be treated on the morning commute.
I bought some 2nd hand OEM E Niro wheels identical to the ones that came on it. I'm guessing 17 inch was just not flash enough for someone who upgraded soon after purchase. As I type, they are getting shod with Bridgestone Blizzak 6. Annoyingly they are a not a super common size and a slight national shortage of full winters in the UK this year meant I had to buy them through mytyres and they were shipped from Germany.
Blizzak 6 are rated at 70db - be interesting to see what different it makes.
Snow arrives Wednesday morning - I feel I might be doing some wheel changes in the dark tonight!
Probably this!
The cost of new wheels would buy a lot of 'leccy!
I did think about doing this - but a tyre change is about £60 now and you need to do that twice a year and I don't mind do it myself. I bought 4 pretty mint OEM wheels for just over twice that, so I'll be quids in soon.
For me going premium summers to full winters (2" smaller rim on this car) is about 2-3%, when i used to run studs it was more like 5% or a little over (also smaller rims). That's given the same/similar weather/conditions.
I've just ordered a set of Continental All Season Contact 2 for the Kona for fitting on Thursday.
Need to order some for my PS4 and daughters Mini. It's going to be an tyring month!
@rovepig talk to Kia. I know that Ioniq 5s are available with smaller wheels as a factory option, so they exist as a part and they can be obtained, this may be the case for Kia as well. But you're talking full set of wheels money not eBay money.
Then, I'd have to get a new set of TPMS sensors. That's easy enough, but how does the car detect these? Will I need to get the sensors coded to vehicle somehow or does it just detect which sensor is on which wheel automatically?
There is also a reduction in circumference going from a 215/50/R19 to a 215/60/R17 tyre, but does that matter and do I have to recalibrate the car somehow? I'm guessing not as the difference is only 1% (2167mm vs 2189mm). Currently if I'm doing a (GPS) speed of 70mph the car will read 71mph (closer than any previous car). With the 17s on I guess that might increase to 72mph but still well within the legal requirement. There will presumably also be a 1% change in estimated efficiency and therefore range I guess. But, again, 1% is too small to care about.
Changing wheels really isn't a faff at all...
And this website is really good for comparing your current wheel/tyre set up, and alternatives:
I've 2 sets of wheels for my Polestar 2 - the OE set with a staggered setup and All season tyres, and a summer/track set that's a square set up, slightly lower ET (so the wheels are more stanced), but same size and tyre diameter.
DrP
Changing wheels really isn't a faff at all...
I am a determined DIY mechanic, I've removed and refitted wheels dozens or hundreds of times, and I still think it's a faff!
It's a bit easier with two jacks though - lift one whole side at a time.
The new CrossClimate3 is apparently designed with the weight and rolling resistance needs of EVs in mind. That’s what I’d be going for if available in right size.
Not available in 215/50/R19 as far as I can tell. Although I think it is available in 215/60/R17 though. So, another reason to consider new wheels I guess 😀
With TPMS sensors, do you just stick a set in and the car works it out or is there some programming of the car required so it knows what sensor is on what wheel? I’m guessing the former as I think you can swap wheels front to back without issues, but just checking.
I've ordered a Jaecoo E5 today on Salary Sacrifice for £271 fully maintained. I'm quite excited...
Bloody hell.
Bloody hell.
Bloody hell good or bloody hell bad?
The TurboHearse costs me over £200pcm before any big bills come in and it needs 3 new tyres, two rear airbags, an EGR valve and possibly a turbo. I've also got concerns about the gearbox.
WBAC offered me £3430 for it this afternoon.
Depends on the car unfortunately.With TPMS sensors, do you just stick a set in and the car works it out or is there some programming of the car required so it knows what sensor is on what wheel? I’m guessing the former as I think you can swap wheels front to back without issues, but just checking.
If it actually has sensors in the valves, then they need to be coded to the car.
My P2, and some other cars, have a ‘passive’ TPMS, so it works out a theoretical pressure drop by comparing wheel rotation speed. Ergo, no sensors to reprogramme with each wheel swap.
@molgrips . 
This type of thing makes swapping wheels a lot easier if you don’t have studs.
DrP