MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Just ordered my 1st L lens (canon 24-105) and wanted some decent glass to protect it.
Was thinking a Hoya pro 1 UV filter, but wondering whether do go for HD range or a polarizing filter?
I just use a lens hood, yet to damage a lens.
I've got 2 lenses that I use protective filters on. One of which is a pro 1 (the other a top end B+W). They're the lenses I tend to use in more 'hostile' environments.
There is an IQ drop if you look really hard, so you have to ask yourself why you bought an L lens in the first place 😉
I use a polarizing filter when I need one. Mid-range Kenko.
I used to use a UV filter, but then I noticed some flare in certain situations (not sure I could tell any IQ drop but I didn't look that hard) so I removed it.
I use a polarising filter if it's very sunny and there's lots of rock or sea around, but it doesn't have quite the impact it used to have on film somehow.
I got told off once for not putting a "protective" UV filter on 2 of my lenses.
Well a quality filter costs about the same as the kit lens, and about half the price I paid for the 50mm prime.
Friend dropped his DSLR. Lens unscathed, but the "protective" UV filter screw ring bent and the filter glass smashed. So now has an empty filter ring permanently attached to the lens to which no other filters can be screwed on.
Have a UV and a Polariser that fits a couple of lenses. Sometimes I use them, sometimes I don't. Why pay loads for glass then pay a bit more to degrade that glass?
UVs are OK for protecting glass but can cause chromatic abberation at higher magnifications. Better off using a lens hood and being careful. When you're not using the lens, put the caps on.
Other than that, the only other filters I use are circular polarisers. Don't bother with neutral density filters, shoot in RAW and learn how to expose properly.
Oh and I have an infra-red filter too, but I don't know why...??
Don't bother with neutral density filters, shoot in RAW and learn how to expose properly.
The first half of that sentence contradicts the second.
Use a lens hood to protect the lens, since it has a side effect of reducing unwanted light, as opposed to UV filter which as only bad side effects.
I use a polarising filter sometimes, and 10-stop neutral density filter for very long exposures of water etc.
Anything else you can pretty much replicate in post-processing.
I just use a lens hood, yet to damage a lens.
Having said that I have very nearly clonked my Nikon 14-24 F2:8 as the lens hood only protects the lens when you wind it back to 24mm. At 14mm the lens is proud (not that you can use a filter on it).
The first half of that sentence contradicts the second.
Eh?
The reason for ND filters is if you want shallow DoF on a bright sunny day. If it's sunny enough at minimum ISO and maximum aperture your shutter speed may not be fast enough to avoid over-exposure, which is where you need a ND filter. You can't fix that in PP, at least not much.
The first half of that sentence contradicts the second.
Eh?
He means that you might NEED an ND filter to get correct exposure, and he's right, see above.
Eh?
ND filters are a tool to allow you to expose properly. There's a clue in DR J's post.
never use them (uv/clear filters) owned dozens of lenses and in 20 years never damaged a front element and thats professional use so not just sunny weekends.
insurance covers any loss.
sometimes use a high quality multicoated polariser.
I use Hoya HD filter (UV maybe- I cant remember) to protect the lens (already saved a smashed lens once where the cap came off unnoticed).
I also have some Hoya polarizing filters, think they are HD too.
And finally I have a nice set of Lee filters- Big stopper, a 6 stop ND and a set of hard grad filters. Comes in handy for landscapes and long exposures. Using filters has nothing to do with not being able to expose correctly!
EDIT: misread post. Ignore.
