Looking after a car...
 

Looking after a car's paintwork

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After 10 years of running an old ford focus into the ground, bought a new (to me) car that happens to be Orange!

I'm admittedly clueless in terms of looking after paintwork, the last car went through a car wash a couple of times a year if it was lucky.

Especially noting the tendency of brighter colours to fade due to UV damage, any advice on what's best? The internet is awash with all sorts of different treatments, coatings and waxes.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 5:37 pm
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Depends how serious you are and how much time you have.

Every time you touch it you are likely to scratch it, which reduces shine and depth of colour.  Bear that in mind and decide how bothered you are and how much effort you want to invest.  Car wash machine is akin to a brillo pad and hand car washes a bit better (how often do they change the wash cloth? Has it been dropped on the ground or been in someones wheel arches?).

I'm essentially lazy (but also tight and want to protect my depreciating asset) so take a pragmatic approach to do the least while getting OK results.

Snowfoam - blast on some foam, have a brew, let it sit, possibly agitate around trim/badges/handles with soft brush rinse it off.  This removes grit without scratching.  It's often the only step I do as it's easy, I can have a brew, cleans the worst off and doesn't mark the car. It's quite good fun too.

Two bucket wash - one for clean wash water/shampoo, one for clean water to rinse the dirt off the big wooly mitt. Do the top half of the car then the bottom if you want to reduce dragging grit from behind the wheels onto the panels. Or don't, but it's not much more effort.

Dry in straight lines along the panels with a proper cloth.

Sometimes (yearly at best) put a wax on like Bilt Hamber Speed Wax.

Doing that my VW looks almost new after 8 years with not much more effort and only a bit more thought.

I'm sure there's more advice on coatings and all that incoming.

If you are really keen then you can start to look at things like clay bars and the like.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 5:54 pm
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A light polish - to help eliminate light wear - and then a good wax to seal is probably enough for a “natural” look and protection - ceramic finishes tend to be the preserve of luxury motors and they usually have an overly shiny look IMO.  Too late Diggery covers it.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 5:58 pm
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The above covers most of it. Decent quality polish and wax a couple of times a year is enough. Some waxes are longer lasting than others. Then there's sealants and stuff, but as long as you have something with decent longevity, then everything else is a quick wash, with a bit of care taken not to add any damage while you wash.

Clay bar can be worth it first time round if it's built up a lot of residue on the surface. You'll not likely need to do it again.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 6:04 pm
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Go here and go down the rabbit hole… https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/

I’m in recovery. It’s been three years since my last two bucket maintenance wash. And five since I did a three stage paint correction. It’s been tough staying on the wagon, nearly slipped a couple of times with the odd wash’n’wax combo product but we won’t tell anyone.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 6:31 pm
momo reacted
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It's a car. It's a depreciating asset.

From A to B to wherever.

Spend the time making memoriesi with your friends and family or alternatively doing things you enjoy.... Riding bikes or such like.

Cars are just things. As long as it is mechanically sound then that is really all that matters.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 6:55 pm
justmoochingalong, pisco, falkirk-mark and 2 people reacted
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https://www.prepmycar.com/car-detailing-kit/

Some great advice here.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 7:16 pm
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Don’t let me wife it round narrow country lanes in Wales would be my first suggestion. You may find certain section of the paint deteriorating quite quickly due to contact with Welsh walls…


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 7:22 pm
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You shouldn't need to polish unless it's scratched which won't happen if you're careful. Two bucket wash and a decent wax should be fine. Youight only need a light polish in a few years if you're careful now.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 8:26 pm
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Start with learning what a 2 bucket wash is.

Criticl - step 1 in 'I care about my car' really.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 9:01 pm
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Spend the time making memoriesi with your friends and family or alternatively doing things you enjoy…. Riding bikes or such like.

Maybe making his car look nice IS something he likes?  I must admit it's quite an engaging and calming pursuit as long as you don't let it become an obsession.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 9:25 pm
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Maybe making his car look nice IS something he likes? I must admit it’s quite an engaging and calming pursuit as long as you don’t let it become an obsession.

Honestly I would rather have a big Tommy Tank atop a hill somewhere with a nice view before contemplating washing my motor.

Last time I have the van a wash was because I had been driving along a beach.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 9:28 pm
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Good job we aren't all the same 🙂


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 9:35 pm
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As diggery says

Snow Foam, wheel cleaner, agitate, wait a bit, rinse. 2 bucket wash, dry, done.

1/2hr tops, every couple weeks.

Wax every so often.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 11:14 pm
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More like 1hr tbh.


 
Posted : 17/07/2023 11:42 pm
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Every couple of weeks? 👀 Are you stuck for something to do?

I like cars. Mine gets washed by the dealer every time it's in for a service, whether it needs it or not. Get shut of it once it's sodded. I think the last car I 'detailed' (jesus christ, really? 'snow foam' come on now, it's $%^&ing Daz) was a '91 plate.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 12:22 am
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 5lab
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Washing a car more often doesn't do anything to help the paint, it just looks better afterwards (you're actually taking a layer of paint off with a polish). If you did nothing for 5 years then gave it a good clean/polish it'd end up looking the same as if you washed it every week.

My car's lucky to go through the auto wash once a year.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 12:26 am
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If you plan on keeping it for a while then maybe get a decent detailer to give it a once-over to have a good starting point. Then it's just a case of a decent washing routine and an annual minor polish and waxing/protection of choice. My current daily was gone over by a detailer when I got it new and again when it passed 100k. Will get the treatment again when it hits 200k (180k currently). The MOT garage comment every year that the car cold easily pass for a 50k example, especially the interior. Not bad for a cheap mass-produced supermini that's used in all weathers and usually has a bike rack on the back.

Cars are just things. As long as it is mechanically sound then that is really all that matters.

Depends on the car. Daily driver white goods car? I can see where you're coming from. Cherished daily? Some people take pride in a clean, presentable car even if it just goes to the shops, work and the odd big trip. Weekend toy? A good detail is a pleasure when you see the results.
The other consideration is that if you look after the paint it can help reduce corrosion (removes built up dirt that holds moisture) and means you take the time to look at the car properly and spot any issues before they get serious. It's also therapeutic to a lot of people like molgrips says above.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 1:39 am
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I do a good job when I feel like it.  Which was basically never when I had a grey Prius and Passat,  now I have a shiny black Merc that really does look good when it's waxed and shiny and tatty when it's not, I do it now and then.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 3:11 am
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My cars always stay looking good and I wash them a couple of times a year.  My theory is that the layer of dirt is forming some protection while minimal washing is not doing as much damage.

A bigger problem for me is not getting all the marks down the side from having to squeeze through narrow roads with hedges all along them.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 6:07 am
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Im trying the ceramic coating approach, on a white car. A half day of solid work to get it really clean, clay bar, light machine polish etc and then applying the ceramic coat took probably an hour.

Hopefully that pays off though as from now on it will get a hose / jet wash (spray only) once a week or whenever it’s looking dirty and a “proper” wash once a month.

So far so good - dirt mostly washes off itself in the rain. Let’s see how well it lasts.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 7:31 am
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Some good advice in the posts above. A lot also comes down to how much time & money do you want to spend on it, if it's minimal then a wash & decent wax (I use Soft99's Fusso Coat) and then wash it (pH neurtral shampoo, e.g. CarPro Reset) whenever you feel like it and re-wax a couple of times a year (could also do a spray on wax top-up between but I don't think it makes much difference).

If you want to spend more then get it professionally ceramic coated (I wouldn't bother trying to do it at home unless you're prepared to clay it and machine polish yourself + can do it in a garage). It's a big up-front cost but lasts a few years and makes home maintenance easier (still worth waxing it yourself for extra protection). Given the cost though it only makes sense on an expensive car.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 7:39 am
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I'm assuming none of you are letting the chemicals you use enter the local water system.....

Washing your car on your drive is forbidden in Germany so as to protect the environment.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 8:39 am
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Same in USA.  I have read somewhere that the allowed chemicals in the UK are far less harmful than they used to be for household detergents, but it's not clear to what extent that helps or even applies to car cleaning.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 8:43 am
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Never take it through a car wash and never use a brush on the paintwork.

The scratches and swirl marks these things produce are horrible.  I have 3 cars on my driveway (Only 1 is mine).  I keep them all clean using the autoglym polar range.  Its supposed to not even need any hands on work but i find i have to at least agitate on the shampoo part.

On my wifes new car i did the following even though dealership had polished it.

  1. Snow Foam (Autoglym Polar Blast)
  2. Shampoo (Autoglym Polar Blast)
  3. Clay Bar
  4. Polish (Autoglym Super Resin and orbital polisher)
  5. Wax (Turtlewax Max Wax and orbital polisher)

The turtlewax is supposed to last 12 months + without having to reapply and tbh its beading just fine now.  After all that work i now do it every 2 weeks or so.  Whole process i have down to about 30mins which i suppose is the kind of time some on here would spend cleaning their bike.

  1. Polar Snow foam
  2. Polar Shampoo
  3. Polar Seal
  4. Dry off with drying towel

After that its gleaming, beading water and looks good for at least a couple of weeks.  I know not everyone is that bothered.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 9:33 am
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Waxed a couple of times a year. Washed, usually weekly (my car is 22 and looks really good). Pay attention to alloys though, as the brake dust soon bakes on and it's bloody hard work if you leave it.

My car doesn't move much, and as we are near(ish) a rail line, it recently picked up a load of iron contaminants during the dry weather as the car sits all day at home. Car was clean, but could feel a slight roughness, and on inspection could see the iron. Well, blow me sideways, half a bottle of Autoglym "Magma", and the car turned bright red and 'bleeding'.  Also did MrsF's car as well, and that was nothing like as bad.

So easy, just sponged the car over, then thoroughly hosed off. All the contaminants were gently removed. MrsF's car was due a polish, so Autoglym Super Resin followed by Deep Gloss Finish. Black trim treated with some fancy stuff I have (doesn't wash off at all). That will be it concerning polish for 6 months.

I find cleaning regularly is quick and effortless (plus I enjoy it). Snow foam is good but buy in 25l containers, otherwise you are getting ripped off.

If you have diamond cut alloys, these need looking after. The number of relatively new ones with all the finish completely pitted is shocking.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 9:45 am
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I'd highly recommend a DI Resin filter if you live in a hard water area.  It filters out the scale, so you don't have to dry it by touching the car, saving a highly risky scratch wipe of the car with a drying towel.  I use a worx pressure washer which it really convenient to pre-foam the car, rinse, foam again ready to wash and then finally rinse with the filtered water (I have a tap to switch between the filter so as not wear it out prematurely).  No need to dry at all and the car will look better than ever.  The filters are about £100 but they're worth it int he time saved not having to dry the car, I can wash a large car in under 20 minutes.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 9:55 am
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Cheers all, came into this feeling clueless and it's been a big help.

Will start with a decent wash routine and wax a few times a year. Thanks for all the product recommendations, will take a look now!


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 11:01 am
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I have Meguiars Tech Wax which although takes quite a while to apply, lasts a long time. I also have Autoglym Aquawax which is much quicker to apply but only lasts a few weeks.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 11:23 am
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I run ours through a car wash about once a month but then we live in a city and park it on the street so DIY wash is more difficult.

The things that really damaged the paint work on our less-frequently-washed previous vehicle were
- birdshit. Get it off as soon as you notice it as it will seriously etch the paintwork if it gets baked on
- tree sap from parking under trees. Once that's baked on by the sun it will take the paint off with it.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 11:37 am
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Things that actually damaged paint on the cars I've owned:

  • Poor washing technique
  • Stone chips
  • Neighbour's kids playing football
  • Burglars
  • Hands with chemicals on, possibly sunscreen
  • A lump of old sealant that fell off the caravan I was repairing and landed on the boot and I didn't remove
  • Me, trying to repair the above damage
  • A woman who assumed I'd pulled all the way out of a junction so turned to look up the road not seeing that I had actually stopped again
  • Me again loading and unloading from the boot and scratching the bumper

 
Posted : 18/07/2023 11:49 am
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Things that actually damaged paint on the cars I’ve owned:

As Hobo said above, those auto car washes with the big swirly brushes. Hopelessly grit-embedded violent bastards, utterly ****ed the paint job on a car I was about to sell once. It's like washing with sandpaper.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 12:13 pm
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massive topic. i suggest you dont get into detailing world as it will cost you a small fortune. Things like waxing over a ceramic coating are not a great idea.

The best protection youll get is a ceramic. It might last a year but your looking at 500-1000 quid to get one installed properly. Yes you can do it at home for a few hundred. ceramic sprays and waxes are not a ceramic coating but are still good.

A wax like product will probably last about 3-4 months at best (yes some like the old fusso coat will last longer but again they arnt the norm)

I would suggest if your starting out you get the autoglym polar kit. its all there and wash it properly about once every 2 weeks and coat it every 4. itll look fine.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 1:38 pm
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+1 for it being depreciating, but it's not and an asset it's a a liability. Assets are things that can make you money, liabilities cost you money, drop to zero unexpectedly, etc.

I've fallen down the rabbit hole as I've got a nice toy car and had a couple of white (actually both light blue) goods.

In terms of protecting the paint, the worst option is just blast it with TFR and jet wash it off. It'll clear the mud, dirt algae and moss but it'll look dull. So that's the level of laziness I reserve for the work van if visiting clients and need to look presentable. This probably takes a tenth of the time of just washing the car.

In the middle, the "average car wash", do use 2 buckets and a microfibre noodle sponge, do dry it with a microfiber cloth, but beyond that you're into diminishing returns. It'll look shiny, it'll probably do the job for 20+ years.

Beyond that.......... things like clay bars, bug/tar/sap removers, you only need as and when you actually need them. Back to black type stuff does what it says on the tin. A decent wax makes a difference to how good the paint looks, but again, only if you care about how good the paint looks. 99% of people will be "ohh that's a nice shade or orange", not many will ever think "ohh wow the depth of color and shine are amazing".

After all that, in a decades time you'll have a car pock marked with stone chips, rust on the seams/sills, a few dents and scratches, etc and none of it will matter.

The only two things I would suggest are:
1) if you do wax it, use something decent. Bilt+Hamber Speed Wax is £20 a tin, but
a) you end up using a lot less than a liquid wax, so a tin will last a very long time.
b) it's quicker to apply as you're not waiting for the water to flash off.
c) it looks significantly better
d) it lasts significantly longer without washing off

Everything else I'd swap to poundland stuff before going back to cheap/liquid wax.

2) Do the interior properly. Scrub the sheen of plasticiser off the inside of the windscreen and then clean it with windowlene. Do clean out the crevices with a paint brush. Do carpet shampoo the seats, floors etc. If I'm going to be forced to spend time in a car it may as well be clean. 99% of that "new car feeling" is just not having to look at the same biscuit crumbs between the steering wheel and the speedo.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 3:39 pm
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I do hand wash the car occasionally, it is a good workout (remember Karate kid!) but am not obsessed about it.
What makes me mad are technically neglegted vehicle, unclean interior and filthy windscreen and windows plus any neglected warning lights and service messages. I believe every driver needs to take real responsibility about condition of the vehicle so that any passengers and other road users are safe. There are differing opinions on this eith inlaws.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 4:52 pm
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How does one clean the dry mud marks from the inside of the driver's door and surrounding plastic areas eg next to the pedals?


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 5:44 pm
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Things that actually damaged paint on the cars I’ve owned

Bird poo is a common one. It's acidic and eats through paintwork. I found this out the hard way. If a bird poops on your car don't let it fester for weeks.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 6:48 pm
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Things that damaged my paintwork - for the one night of the year I didn't put the car in the garage overnight it blew a gale which picked up a piece of corrugated roofing off said garage and deposited it on the bonnet of the car.


 
Posted : 18/07/2023 6:56 pm
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How does one clean the dry mud marks from the inside of the driver’s door and surrounding plastic areas eg next to the pedals?

APC = All Purpose Cleaner, is very good for things like this.

Make up a strong solution, apply to dirty surface, agitate with a brush, leave it for a minute or two and then wipe away the residue.


 
Posted : 19/07/2023 2:52 pm
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Did it for years on my previous car, spent lots of money on products, watched lots of videos on how to protect and maintain the protection. Spent many sunday mornings applying products to the car.

Eventually the paint on the roof failed when i put a bike on the roof rack then rain some chain oil through it which dripped onto it and sat too long, then 6 months later a drink driver hit me and wrote the car off.

I don't waste time or money on it anymore.


 
Posted : 19/07/2023 3:28 pm