MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
And I am excited! But also a bit of that sick feeling you get from compulsively buying stuff when you know you shouldn't.
Sweet, I look forward to seeing some pics. I nearly bought a macro lens recently but decided to get some extension tubes instead as I've been spending loads recently. Sorting out a decent flash setup is the key to good macro pics imo.
But also a bit of that sick feeling you get from compulsively buying stuff when you know you shouldn't.
I know that feeling. Just ordered a set of filters and holder that cost over £200 😯
What did you get? Currently convincing myself I don't need an EF-S 60 as we speak.
Not keen on close ups of bugs and stuff but as I get more into DSLR video I find non-macro lenses too limiting in terms of close ups... I often want to just go a little closer with my EF50 than it's able to.
Aaaarrrghhhh! Don't say that!!
I am longing for a Tamron 90mm macro for my D80. That, and the new SB-700 flash.
Moving house means I have quelled my requirements somewhat to just the flash. But, even so I am struggling to find the moral fibre to press the 'buy' button when there are £'s and £'s of domestic drudgery to be purchased in the coming weeks/months....
Good effort on your impulsiveness! Stick some pics up when you get the chance....
You lot will laugh at my piddling expenditure, but it was the budget Oly 35mm one. Full price £250, mine for £187 on Amazon, used but as new (apparently).
All the people I know into digital photography spend £5-800 on lenses, seems to be just me buying the budget stuff 🙂
Re flash - been doing nicely so far with my angle and swivelable flash, but I'm thinking a tripod and no flash would be better for most stuff...?
Currently convincing myself I don't need an EF-S 60 as we speak.
I've been mulling this one over for quite some time. I have discovered that John Lewis do it, and we have some vouchers left from our wedding list. I'm am now trying to convince Mrs P that this will be a purchase which benefits us both.
Look forward to some terrifying close ups of spiders from you in a few weeks molgrips.
I splashed on some Close Up filters (+2 and +4) for my 50mm lens after recommendations on here.
A [u]lot[/u] cheaper than buying a true Macro lens and the image quality is good enough for me. A lot easier to carry too.
The only real downside is that they have a very short working distance, so no good for photographing anything that spooks.
I think the macro I am after is £350 or so - so no means pricey in terms of lenses, but pricey enough for me. One Stop Digital have it a lot cheaper, but am not convinced about buying from Hong Kong.
As for the flash, I like the idea of having a detachable flash that I can use for bike pics with mates. We tried a while back to get some decent pics at Thetford, but it was virtually impossible with no flash & the built-in flash wasn't much better.
My Bro-in-Law has got a Canon with a decent flashgun and it makes it so much easier to get decent pics at family get togethers etc. when you have a powerful flash you can bounce off the ceiling and just get a bit more light on the situation.
stumpy - I've bought from OneStopDigital before and they were great. They have a good rep too. 'Only' £248.99 (inc delivery I think). 🙂
Re flash - been doing nicely so far with my angle and swivelable flash, but I'm thinking a tripod and no flash would be better for most stuff...?
Tripod is fine for flowers and non-moving stuff - but are you going to set a tripod up for a butterfly or whatever? Most really impressive macro pics that you see of stuff like that are using flash with some kind of diffuser. The thing is, at that distance you get a tiny DOF, you need to use a small aperture to get the maximum DOF you can, but that means slow shutter speeds (unless you use flash).
Been enjoying my Nissin Di466, a cheap(er) alternative to brand-name flashes, worth a look...
For macro, I've got some good results with what's effectively a reversed 50 on an extension tube:
[url= http://www.mu-43.com/gallery/data/500/medium/P1010265.JP G" target="_blank">http://www.mu-43.com/gallery/data/500/medium/P1010265.JP G"/> [/img][/url]
(nikon 50/1.8 pre Ai reversed on a nikon - mu43 adapter, on a G1, handheld in bright sunlight)
Grumm - yeah, One Stop Digital does seem like a safe bet. Only ever seem good reviews....
Shame they don't have the SB-700 flash available yet, as well. Best price I can find for it is around about £250. The SB-600 which has been around for years can be had for a bit less, but not a great deal less (from the UK at least) so seems better to pay a bit more for 'newer'.
Nice shot IA.
stumpy - I seem to remember a review saying that in some ways the SB600 was better than the 700, but I could have made that up. 😀
For a cheapo macro option I don't think you can beat the Raynox DCR 250
[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/4632127172_96883f9db9_o.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/4632127172/ ]Williamson Park Butterfly House[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4632187874_e3ceab7f47_o.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/4632187874/ ]Williamson Park Butterfly House[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
Taken with the G1 and kit lens I think.
Old MF lenses can be a good cheap option too - seeing as with macro you generally manually focus by rocking back and forth slightly anyway.
Canon FD 50mm 3.5 macro and GF1.
[url= http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1257/4729575753_8ae1d005a4_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/4729575753/ ]P1160133[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4897779086_707884992f_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/4897779086/ ]P1030702[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
Some lovely photos. I also look forward to seeing some results molgrips 🙂
Being new to the DSLR world ( and not trying to hijack this thread) can anyone recommend a good or simple reversing ring to go onto a Nikon D5000 and a 18mm to 55mm lens. I presume the 55mm to 200mm would be too much for macro?
You'll probably want extension tubes too. The problem with using the kit lens aswell is you have no aperture control on G lenses, which is helpful.
You'll be stuck with it stopped right down (or wedged wide open if you move the lever) so you'll need a LOT of light.
I could go try out the nikkor 18-55 on a reversed D40 if you really want, but I don't expect good results for the above reasons. A used manual 50mm won't cost you much...
Have a look on ebay from hong kong if you want a cheap one to try it out - it's a pretty simple device so you can't go wrong really.
The trouble with reversing rings is you can no longer set aperture on the camera, so unless you have a manual aperture control on the lens you are stuck with it wide open.
Though as IA seems to have done you can do some jiggery pokery involving setting the aperture on a Nikon first, but it sounds like a faff to me. 😀
edit: too slow!
but are you going to set a tripod up for a butterfly or whatever?
No, but I think moving or potentially moving subjects are going to be beyond my pay grade as a photographer 🙂 I can't imagine trying to focus on something moving at macro distances either auto or manual to be honest. I think if I were trying to do that I might end up using the kit 14-42, since focuses more quickly and I can zoom to get closer instead of having to close in on the critter. But it'll be fun finding out 🙂
Got some really exciting results (for me) from the long zoom lens (the one I had a thread about a while back) the other day too, I'll be posting them up soon 🙂
Grumm - yeah Ken Rockwell in his infinite wisdom has said that the extra expense of the SB-700 isn't worth it as most of the extra features are marketing gimmicks and not really necessary.
I'm not so sure.
The SB-600 does have a slightly higher GN, but that seems to be the only advantage that I can see so far.
Apparently the SB-700 has a much better menu system, more features, comes with clip-on covers to match incandescent & fluorescent lighting, over-temp protection etc...
Not all that relevant, but I think the SB-600 can only be used as a slave as well, whereas the SB-700 can run as a master unit.
And it doesn't seem to be massively more expensive....
But, as with everything - it's decisions, decisions! Which is difficult for someone so indecisive!
Though as IA seems to have done you can do some jiggery pokery involving setting the aperture on a Nikon first, but it sounds like a faff to me
No, that pic above is a MF nikkor with aperture control. I was pointing out I could jigger and indeed poke the 18-55 to roughly set aperture, by manipulating the stop down lever.
You can't set an aperture on a nikon then take it off, it'll make no odds. That trick only works with EF mount canon lenses.
Ah ok, sorry. 🙂
IA - didn't realise the Nissin flashes worked wirelessly....
Hmmmm, need further investigation I reckon as they are MUCH better value, so long as they support all the Nikon functionality.
YongNuo flashes also seem to be well regarded as a cheap and cheerful option - dunno about wireless though.
This conversation is starting to go over my head 😳
With further hijacking, what would be the simplest bit of kit to learn with. I'm learning and doing OK with the camera but would like to be able to include macro from the start?
For a poor man's macro you can go down a number of paths. I've found a mixture of reversing ring, extension tubes and old analogue 50mm f1.8 lens with manual aperture works best. More or less extension tubes can be added to fine tune things but usually one short one will do the job.
You do have to get very close though and the depth of field, even with it wide open is very narrow.
Cost me about twenty quid in total. I bought some bellows too but they make things too difficult to be useful.
[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3659769594_c72ab39d07_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/53067724@N00/3659769594/ ]What you look'in at?[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/53067724@N00/ ]Jon Wyatt[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/3823248552_2244fb6ed7.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/53067724@N00/3823248552/ ]leaf[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/53067724@N00/ ]Jon Wyatt[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4757546178_993ae63d1d_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/53067724@N00/4757546178/ ]105-micro[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/53067724@N00/ ]Jon Wyatt[/url], on Flickr
Only thing about the nissins is that I think only the higher end ones support high speed sync/FP TTL/whatever nikon call that. Though does a D5000 sync at 1/500 like a D40 anyhow, which is pretty good? (and you can often get up to 1/1000 sometimes)
Also they won't do the nikon CLS stuff AFAIK.
They will TTL meter when on the camera though (i use mine on u4/3).
I mostly use mine off the camera in manual, with manual exposure with cheap ebay triggers (CTR-301ps). The built in optical slave is decent though, radio's just better still. I can recommend a decent & reasonably priced light stand, swivel head and umbrella too, if you're looking?
YongNuo flashes also seem to be well regarded as a cheap and cheerful option - dunno about wireless though.
I've got a YN-460 too, and whilst cheap and cheerful for manual off-camera use, mine's now stuck on nearly full power. Dubious quality control. And I CBA to send it back, not worth it for the price. The nissin's so much nicer made, just works better, and more compact too, a better fit for my u4/3 kit.
Hmmmm, perhaps best to stick with Nikon then, although will investigate further. I don't want to buy something that only does half the job (so to speak). I'd rather fork out the dosh and get full functionality.
FP flash mode is so you can take pictures at super high exposures, right? Mostly they say it's useful for fill in flash in bright sunlight, but surely action flash photography is a major application?
With further hijacking, what would be the simplest bit of kit to learn with. I'm learning and doing OK with the camera but would like to be able to include macro from the start?
Get a Raynox DCR 250 - about £40.
You bought one did you?
And what did you buy your lovely wife?
The start of this post reminded me of this article: 🙂
[url= http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/05/letter-to-george.html ]The Online Photographer[/url]
FP flash for very high shutter speeds, effectively it flashes several times to cover the exposure, at the expense of a lot of flash power. So yes, basically fill flash in bright conditions, or when you want a wide aperture for artistic effect, and require a fast shutter (and yet still flash for some creative reason).
Did a quick google, and your D80 will work as a commander for CLS mode with nikon speedlights off camera, so maybe worth going nikon for this reason. HOWEVER, it's basically only useful indoors, and it's costing you a lot of money... so maybe think hard about how you want to use the flash, what you want to use it for.
For creative off camera flash "strobist" style, you'll probably end up in manual anyway... plus if you're only spending say £80 on the flash in the first place, there's a pretty limited amount to loose if you decide to sell on. And if you decide you want to upgrade, a 2nd flash is nice to have for off camera work anyhow.
Remember to budget about 80 for a stand/umbrella/clamp/gels. Which you'll probably want for any off camera stuff.
Grumm - could you give me a breakdown of all the bits you have for your GF1 for macro work?
I've seen the "Canon FD 50mm 3.5 macro" on eBay a few times, but am having trouble finding a (cheap) adaptor ring i.e. they are all £170 - NOT cheap!
Cheers,
DrP
Dr P - not sure what you are searching for but there are loads of cheap uns on ebay.
I think mine came from this guy - http://shop.ebay.co.uk/szkacha/m.html
Though the adapter I have was a bit more expensive (£20 ish).
I also use a Metz 36 external flash, usually handheld with a cord to get it off camera, and a Stofen type diffuser.
Oh and I think for the close up of the fly I had the 50mm 3.5 Macro with some extension tubes (again cheapy ones off ebay from hong kong). You can either get M4/3 extension tubes or Canon FD ones (cheaper).
You bought one did you?And what did you buy your lovely wife?
I said you could buy whatever you wanted! Come up with something that's not yarn and you can have it 🙂
DrP, if you have a GF1 how about this:
[img] 
[/img]
Panasonic Leica 45mm macro, only £450 🙂
IA - yeah, the D80 will work as a commander. I'd made up my mind to get the SB-600, and then they announced the SB-700. Hmmmm.
Why will it only be useful indoors? One of the reasons for getting it was for pics in the trees at Thetford (and other places) where it can be very dull, even if it's a bright and sunny day.
Most people I see taking pics at events are just using one wireless flash to illuminate the riders and it seems to work well, or am I missing something?
To be honest, I could do with reading up on flash photography, as even though it is just applying more light to a shooting environment it seems to completely bamboozle me.
As a 'amateur being an idiot' example, if I shoot inside with a compact, the flash will fire & the shutter speed will be quick enough to freeze any movement so pics of kids messing about can be taken. Not very subtle, but it works.
Try it using my D80 with the flash popped up (in program mode) and it seems to keep a similar shutter speed as not using the flash and I end up with blurry pics. I am guesing it's trying to balance the light output so you don't just end up with all flash, but sometimes that's not what I want.
The camera will choose a certain shutter speed by default, might be 1/120 or 1/80 - mine chooses anything between 1/60 and 1/120 and I'm not sure what criteria it uses. I think though that you can make it use a shorter exposure up to maybe 1/400? You can see what the settings are on the back of the camera when you try shooting.
For easy shooting, try sport mode and popping up the flash.
If you are getting a fancy new flash, there'll be a host of options. You can tell the camera what exposure you want to use and it'll sort the rest out. You can even dial in more or less flash (on mine) and it'll adjust the exposure correspondingly.
Decent flash units that work with your camera are fantastic things. The simple ability to point and swivel makes your pictures about 100 times better.
Back on the subject of macro photography, anyone seen [url= http://www.photoloving.com/gbu0-prodshow/hxled.html ]this?[/url] Ring light (not flash) for macro photography, only £40! And good reviews too despite it looking a bit cheapo. It's on continuously so that you can faff with your camera settings whilst the lighting is constant then snap.
The flash should freeze motion reasonably well, even with a slowish shutter speed, not sure why it's still blurry.
Sometimes for action shots a little movement blur can be desirable though (with second curtain sync so the trail is behind not in front.
Why will it only be useful indoors?
Commander mode is only really usable indoors is what I meant. It relies on your slaved strobe detecting the relatively weak command flashes from the camera. Where it's relatively bright outside, with no walls to bounce off, the on camera flash will struggle to communicate with the flashgun.
Key thing to realise about flash is this: shutter speed doesn't matter.
I'll say that again, differently. Flash only cares about aperture.
I'll explain a bit more: the flash duration is so short that anything exposed by the flash is lit for a fraction of the shutter being open. So longer or shorter* shutter makes no odds to that part of the scene. Only the ISO, aperture, and flash power. Anything only lit by ambient is of course a combination of ambient aperture and shutter speed.
So with say a rider, flash power and aperture expose the rider, and freeze their motion. A longer shutter speed exposes the background. I'll try find some example pics.
*well, till you get to very high shutter speeds where you need high speed sync. But that's a /sync/ issue, not a duration one.
I'll explain a bit more: the flash duration is so short that anything exposed by the flash is lit for a fraction of the shutter being open.
Hmm.. yes but surely that's only true in complete darkness? In an indoor situation you'd still get some exposure of the subject beyond the flash duration even with low ambient light? Despite the camera metering for the flash...
Not in most situations really. Here's something to try on manual mode for you:
Find a subject a couple metres away indoors, expose for flash at say ISO200, f5.6 (reasonable for sharpness) and 1/200s say. Now take leave the settings alone and put the flash off. You'll almost certainly have a black frame. Walk the shutter speed down till you get a good exposure - bet you need a *really* slow shutter speed.
Obviously it depends on settings though, typically you might say under expose the ambient a stop or two, then highlight a subject with the flash. So then you might get a trail from the moving subject, albeit underexposed. That's where second curtain sync comes in.
Yes but second curtain sync will only affect the direction of the trails won't it?
If I want to shoot indoors without a flash in my house it'll be something like 1/15 at f3.5. So I want my flash to just add a little extra light to bring that within usable levels. I don't want a strongly flash lit scene usually.
Well ok, say you're shooting at 35mm (nice average focal length?) you want to shoot at 1/70, ISO200, f 5.6 say? That's more than 3 stops under exposed in the room I'm in now.
Usually you don't want strong flash as it's poor quality of light, with nice light (direction and any modifiers) the whole scene may be flash lit. E.g. bouncing off the ceiling.
Anyhow, to return to my original point, the flash light still only cares about aperture (and ISO). I was trying to help you understand - it's not "just adding more light". If it was adding constant light, then it would affect your exposure as normal, as it is, it's not.
So to freeze action with the flash and expose the background, you need a flash power + aperture + ISO to expose the rider correctly (to freeze them in the flash duration) and then a shutter speed to expose the background. Where there's a small difference in exposure levels, the trail will be small, if not it'll be large. Slow sync (or similar) mode on your camera will attempt to auto meter in this way (flash exposure subject, then burn in the background)
To add further confusion, another reason you might not want to mix ambient and flash is that you then need to gel the flash to match ambient. Otherwise you end up with orange looking ambient/very obvious white (or blue) flash light.
Anyhow, we seem to be slightly OT now 😉 I recommend www.strobist.com as an excellent learning resource.
IA - If I understand you, you're saying the shutter speed doesn't matter with a flash firing (as the flash fires for 1/10,000 of a second anyway)?
Now, I'm no expert, but in my reading around the subject (recently, actually!), I came across [url= http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/syncspeed.htm ]this[/url], which I'm afraid shows the IMPORTANCE of shutter speed with flash, and why a fast speed IS useful at times...
DrP
Hehehe.. DrP.. you are demonstrating why taking photos is such a argued over area.. there's as many ways to think about and do it as there are photographers...
Dr P - that's why flash [b]sync[/b] speed is important, as it lets you shoot wider apertures for a given ambient exposure, and so as flash only cares about aperture (provided it can sync) your flash doesn't need to be as powerful to get the same exposure.
Sync speed and shutter speed are related, but important for different reasons!
Simple example of this point, say I'm shooting a scene which is nicely exposed, with ambient and flash balanced as I wish, and I'm at f5.6, 1/200 but the flash is on full power (balancing strong sunlight maybe).
Now, i can get the exact same exposure at f2.8, 1/400 with the flash on half power (twice as many shots, recharging faster, yay!) but my flash needs to be able to sync at 1/400.
I only initially made the point about aperture not shutter being important, as molgrips wanted a better understanding of flash photography. The first thing to understand is that it's not like a constant light source, there are *less* variables affecting exposure. I just seem to have been waylaid with more technical details 🙂
I think that ken rockwell link is a decent explanation too though. I don't think it contradicts anything I've said?
FWIW I'm not a great or experienced photographer, I'm just an epic geek (with the doctorate to prove it) and good at getting my head round techy stuff like this.
Anyhow, best bet for someone trying to work it all out is to try it out. Nearly any camera with on camera flash will still let you tweak its power in manual mode, so you can try things out changing one variable at a time, and see how it all works.
I'd suggest firing off a frame in A mode at a reasonable aperture and distance, with flash. Note the settings, apply them in manual and change things from there. Change the shutter first, see what happens. Then put the shutter back and change aperture.
The manual for my flash just told you how to do the things that it does for you automatically anyway. Seemed like a right faff. I am sure there are other tricks that you need manual control for, but I dunno what they are yet 🙂
Gonna get my camera out & have a fiddle......
Tried IA's experiment above.
ISO200 f5.6 1/200sec with flash = good exposure
Same setting and flash off = totally dark apart from light fitting which can just be seen.
Had to increase shutter speed to 1/2.5sec to get a comparable exposure.
Max shutter sync speed with built in flash appears to be 1/200s on the D80. It's got FP-high speed sync if you stick a Speedlight on.
Ooh.. lens should be here on Saturday or Monday!
I had a Canon 100mm f2.8 Macro, seemed like a good idea, but hardly ever used it and when I did it wasn't for macro shots.
Too much messing about and being honest its hard to beat a decent compact for macro stuff especially with the inbuilt IS. Not about to get a tripod set up for insects, odds on they would have flown away too
Just got my Yongnuo YN460 and wireless triggers - working well right out of the box. Seems like a great cheapo option for trying off camera flash.
Sorry this thread got a bit hijacked molgrips. 🙂
Yeah, that's what I got my YN460 for, it worked for a couple weeks then got stuck on full power. The leds on the back change to indicate power level, but output doesn't change 🙁
Opened it up, nothing obviously wrong. So I tweaked it a bit, so it's now stuck on a bit less than full power.
Assuming you have triggers with a tripod thread on the bottom, the stand etc. combo I have is:
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/MF6027/ (copy of the manfrotto ultra compact basically)
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/MF6830/
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/AU3036/
And the strobist gel pack too. You can get cheaper stands etc, but they're either not as compact, or seem a lot less sturdy.
Grumm, am I right in thinking you use g-series panasonics also? In which case this post of mine might be of interest:
http://www.mu-43.com/f43/g1-white-balance-oddities-annoyances-8312/
Not about to get a tripod set up for insects, odds on they would have flown away too
Could you not use it hand held then?
Could you not use it hand held then?
Bit shaky in my old age and the macro aspect just accentuates camera movement.
Ok when using my birding lens with a beanbag or high shutter speed for birds in flight, but if I ever got the urge for another macro lens it would have to be the IS version
Oh, I have in body IS and it's brilliant. I was experimenting last night, 1/6 at 300mm equiv whilst reclining in a chair.
Picked it up today. You won't be able to tell here but the sharpness is tremendous. I took this resting on the stool with anti-shock:
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5385518746_a3030d808d_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5385518746/ ]Kitty[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
A couple of 100% crops
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5384940785_912efa8613.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5384940785/ ]Kitty crop 1[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5384940973_e574ec4fa6.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5384940973/ ]Kitty crop 2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5385597410_674256e69f_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5385597410/ ]stw[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
I have a D80 and SB600 and SB800, I use them both fine outside using the on camera flash as commander.
These external flashes have a sensor on the side to detect the commander flash. Outside all you have to do is angle this sensor towards the camera and then use the swivel head on the flash to illuminate the subject. I have yet to find a real life situation where the flashes don't fire. A truly amazing system.
Bump for grumm.
I’d never noticed the phallic figurine in the middle of the ST logo before. 😀
Nice results from the lens too, I look forward to seeing more posts with your experiments.
Thanks 🙂
The increase in sharpness from having the camera supported makes me want a tripod now... Would want a short one for macro work but also a normal sized one for other uses. Perhaps this is why you buy heads and tripods separately?
For a few weeks now I've had a velbon luxi l (tripod) and it's got a removable centre to be great for macro work, but extends to eye height (and then some) - I'm 5.10 so should be good for most people...
Got it for £62 from bristol cameras - highly recommend it as a tripod!
DrP
That looks sweet. I read somewhere though that I should get a ball head.. wonder if that's worth it or not.
Nice molgrips - looks really good and sharp.
Kind of inspired by this thread (and to reward myself for not buying a macro lens 🙂 ) I got some extension tubes to use with my 85mm 1.8.
With my 430 EX II flash, generally bounced off something.
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5388307717_5fcbf023d2_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/5388307717/ ]85mm 1.8 with Extensions tubes - Macro test-2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5388915272_2448255f66_z.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/5388915272/ ]85mm 1.8 with Extensions tubes - Macro test-3[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5388914294_e5fa9b0ce9_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/18244158@N00/5388914294/ ]85mm 1.8 with Extensions tubes - Macro test-1[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/18244158@N00/ ]Grum Wynne[/url], on Flickr
Grumm, am I right in thinking you use g-series panasonics also? In which case this post of mine might be of interest:
Cheers for that - have to say I haven't got as far with flash as playing with gels yet - but I'm sure I will do one of these days. 🙂
Money plant leaf with some sort of parasite/damage?
No, it's a cat - obviously. 🙄
😛
Nice pics there.. macro shooting really is endless fun. Everything's a subject!
Gonna get one of those LED ring lights for macro I think.
Molgrips - that lens does look pretty sharp.
When using the camera on a surface or tripod do you turn IS off? I seem to remember reading somewhere that if you are shooting on a stable platform, you'll get sharper results with IS turned off.
Might be worth experimenting?
Cheers for the info on the Nikon flashes, CHB.
I've got a Velbon Luxi F tripod (v. similar to DrP's Luxi L) and am pretty impressed with it. It's not mega stable 'cos the legs are quite thin, but it has a great working range, folds up nice and small and is sturdy enough for most stuff - only time I felt it moving about too much was in very high wind.
When using the camera on a surface or tripod do you turn IS off? I seem to remember reading somewhere that if you are shooting on a stable platform, you'll get sharper results with IS turned off.
I also read that. I forgot to turn IS off in that case 🙂
I have however noticed that IS seems to increase shutter lag every so slightly... Definitely snappier (see what I did there? 🙂 ) with IS off.
Most modern IS will detect the camera's stable and not affect the image on a support.
There will probably be 2 modes for your IS (well 3, including off). Constant, where it's always on and affects the view in the finder aswell (well, liveview as it's in-body) and a mode where it only comes on for the shot. In this case, it will give some lag, as when you press the shutter it has to turn on the IS, then take the pic.
No, it's a cat - obviously.
How in the name of Arnos Grove Underground Station is this a cat?:
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Hmm? Why do you have to be so mean and nasty? 😥
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