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have you floored it yet? if not consider going insulated floating floor to cut down on the amount of ground borne moisture entering the building
I only have the floor joists in place, I'm using scaffolding boards as a temporary floor. I was just thinking about insulating the floor and wall cavities. A simple drop floor with OSB and loft style insulation. Any ideas what is cheapest? The roof space could only be insulated on one side as it has skylights on the south side.
mcmoonter, can I please propose a trade of skills.
I can offer you a willingness to work outdoors in all weathers, unwavering enthusiasm, very few technical skills and below average strength, in return for the opportunity to help build some stuff at your house and learn some skillz.
"mcmoonter school of wood"
100% serious.
I have an Aeropress if that helps you decide?
Ha, I was considering making the same suggestion
Where do you get all the bus shelter glass from?
Googles 'bus shelter glass theft epidemic in Scotland'...
Great thread. I started building my shed at roughly the same time as this.
So far I have... floor joists.
I was going to start a thread, but I think everyone would be bored by the lack of updates. Maybe I'll start it when it's nearly done and make it appear fast 😉
Peterfile & Piemonster if you are near you'd be welcome. The next thing once I sort out the eaves is the drop down floor, bench skeleton and floor. They are the sorts of jobs where you see an outcome fairly quickly. Email me.
Today was the coldest yet with a wind that whipped up snow off the fields like the Siberian Gulag.
I finally managed to get the last side clad and glazed. I still need to get the roof ridge on but that can wait until better weather.
I found the glass at my local council yard, it was a chance find. They had some big panes that I used for my pavilion elsewhere.
AlexSimon, post up some pics of your progress, there is a lot of helpful advice on here that I find keeps me motivated and points me in directions I hadn't anticipated.
I've got to go and do some proper work for a few days so there wont be any daily updates for a spell.
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This is what the bus stop glass looked like when I picked it up. Pretty grim, but a bucket of water and some elbow grease later it was as good as new.
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dA-xtNk4NlM/T9i_7yJvnSI/AAAAAAAAV30/ZGjOAXE3Ge0/s576/tea%2520hoose%25208%2520025.JP G" target="_blank">https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dA-xtNk4NlM/T9i_7yJvnSI/AAAAAAAAV30/ZGjOAXE3Ge0/s576/tea%2520hoose%25208%2520025.JP G"/> [/img]
Beautiful ^^
Looking forward to a finished painted studio, I think eau d nil would look lovely 😉
Aww thanks Mcmoonter, you know those flowers make me smile.
cheapest insulated floor way would be thinnest OSB you can buy on the [u]underside [/u]of joists, then fill with rockwool, then plastic vapour membrane, then flooring on top as normal, nice cheap upgrade from normal
osb forms a crude vapour membrane itself
alternatively if you have money to burn the thickest kingspan you can buy!!!
I went to the merchants this morning for a quote on OSB and rock wool. 8x4 sheets were about £8, 13m2 of 100mm rock wool was around £20. Is that about the going rate? I didn't know about PVM.
alternatively if you have money to burn the thickest kingspan you can buy!!!
I've got logs to burn not money 😀
McM - I always understood artists preferred northern facing light in their studios - is this wrong or does is just not work for your plot
Northern light is more consistent, but I prefer the spontaneous changeable southern light. I work quickly in it, I think it helps infuse my paintings with life.
The site also had a surprisingly good view over the Forth to the south which is a bonus.
£8 for osb is not bad, you can also use expanded polystyrene as an insulating layer - rockwool slabs will always be cheapest though
don't skimp on the dpm or plastic membrane - put it on the warm side of the insulation (i.e on the interior side of the floor joists
When I put the insulation between the joists on the drop down floor, do I leave an air gap between the top of the insulation and the floor boards of have it tight against them.
I have a big roll of blue heavy duty polythene that I had left over after laying a concrete floor, would it work as a damp proof membrane or does it have to be something fancier?
When I put the insulation between the joists on the drop down floor, do I leave an air gap between the top of the insulation and the floor boards of have it tight against them.
With Celotex etc, it's normally tight against them.
Any views on polythene as an underfloor dpm?
If you were using Celotex style stuff you'd just pack it against the floor then tape over the joints with foil tape so the foil outer and tape would be the DPM. So I guess Ploythene would be ok if there wasn't much of a gap for condensation to get trapped in.
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8265796601/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr
the blue polythene should be fine - just make sure it goes on top of the polystyrene
as for the bottom of it - osb is best as it is virtually vapour proof, failing that some light battens would hold the insulation up in place
McM, nice thread... thought about any decking on the side with falls away from the studio or even a clever deck build around the tree thats close to the side of the building.. ?
Make a great G&t or Pimms podium...
Oh, and about that tree house and swing... there is an amazing treehouse in a property near Dunoon... remember it on a bike ride round there. Proper house really in a big old tree by the sea.
I laid about 3/4 of the OSB today and nailed the bench legs in place. The timber merchants had run out of the 9mm OSB so gave me 12mm stuff with a bit of discount. The gap is really well sealed, I have rock wool insulation (100mm) and 19mm flooring. Would the polythene really make that much of a difference? My fear is it would promote condensation.
I will lay the insulation and some floorboards tomorrow.
I did think about an outside deck, but to project the roof to cover it would rob the interior of light. I also fear that for the handful of days that wind doesn't blow up there it wouldn't be worth the effort.
the reason for the polythene is to prevent water vapour rising up into the shed - if you have osb that will help prevent it too.
the other reason is to prevent the humid interior of the shed getting past the insulation and condensing on the cold side of the insulation
to be honest you will probably get away with not using it, especially if shed interior is unheated and reasonably well ventilated
I decided against the polythene. I felt that the thicker OSB and the insulation would be enough. Air will be free flowing under the building, my fear was that with the stove indoors condensation may form between the floor and the polythene. As I can't insulate the roof it's academic really. I will insulate the cavities in the wall space, it may help a little too. I ordered the stove, it should be here at the end of the week, so I will bash on with the other half of the floor and sort out the eaves as quickly as I can before it arrives.
you can insulate the roof, but it'd have to be with kingspan and more osb!!
Also think about how you can introduce and control some natural ventilation, maybe a hit and miss vent at a suitable place
keep the pictures coming - loving this buld thread!
Also think about how you can introduce and control some natural ventilation, maybe a hit and miss vent at a suitable place
I'm thinking along the lines of a gap at the bottom of the door and a draft excluder sausage.
wow - all that glass makes the interior really airy.
Did you say the glass came from the council? If so which department, I've tried ringing a few in my local council (Cheshire East) and noby has any clue where they dispose of things like this.
to be honest you will probably get away with not using it, especially if shed interior is unheated and reasonably well ventilated
Unheated? Tis is Mcmoonter, king of the stoves and firewood.
At the very least the Duke of Fife stove lord
Nice progress. Keep the updates coming!
That's the last of the OSB and the insulation in place so I can finish the floor tomorrow. The new stove arrives on Wednesday, so the race is on. It can't come soon enough as the snow is back.
The glass? I got lucky, I just happened to see it in a corner of the council depot. I doubt someone on a council switchboard would know who to ask.
There was a guy on here who cleaned bus shelters and had a personal stash of glass.
Wow! That's ace. jealous much?!
My brother came over this morning and gave me a hand to finish the floor. It's a much easier job with two pairs of hands. I loosely built the other two benches, to tops aren't nailed in place as I need to insulate and clad the walls behind them.
I found some glass that should work to insert in the door. The stove should be here tomorrow if the weather doesn't get any worse. I've still got to sort out the eaves and get the gutters up.
Will it ever be dry / warm enough to paint the exterior?
Very impressive.
Is that a table saw you've got there?
'Kin 'ell McMoo, I've put 4 new kitchen cupboards up today whilst you've done all that. No one likes a show off you know! 🙂
Is that a table saw you've got there?
It's an elu flip saw, it's pretty handy but it doesn't cut much more than an inch deep which is a compromise.
Boblo, it's taken me all day, it's a means to an end. I can't wait to start painting in it.
It's a much easier job with two pairs of hands.
Sorry! 😳
Peterfile, there will be other projects. Stay tuned.
looks ace, keep the build pics coming!
how are you going to finish off the eaves?
how are you going to finish off the eaves?
I don't know yet. When I positioned the lowest purlin, I aligned it with the vertical outside face of the 4x4 posts, so theoretically, with the castellations sealed with the foam strip, all I need to do is infill the gap between the top window rail and the purlin. There are one or two other wee gaps that should be easy enough to fill with the offcuts I have left over.







